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Messages - Mr.

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91
Big Wall Forum / Re: Where to buy gear?
« on: February 23, 2009, 01:51:43 pm »
I know a lot of brick and mortar climbing shops that have Aliens in stock right now...






92
Big Wall Forum / Re: Where to buy gear?
« on: February 23, 2009, 10:47:08 am »
why is it that climbers prefer to purchase gear online? why not just swing by your local mom n' pop climbing shop and buy local (honest question)?

buying from overseas? why? what do they offer that is different?

i don't understand... please explain...



 

93
Big Wall Forum / Re: North Dome Gully descent (pics)
« on: February 23, 2009, 10:01:20 am »
yep, thats it.

a climber with haulbag lost his balance just past the section that is marked "exposed" and went over the cliff few years back. there is a lot of super rotten granite that looks like sand in this area.... ball bearings!

94
Big Wall Forum / Re: muir wall beta
« on: February 18, 2009, 07:00:17 pm »
Smack- Check your messages.

95
Big Wall Forum / Re: Fish hooks (orginal unused - large photo warning)
« on: February 10, 2009, 05:38:32 pm »
the most bomber hook when used as "pro." good for hooking flakes. not so good for little micro features, not stable enough, not really designed for that purpose.

-mr

96
Big Wall Forum / Re: Solo aid tagline...
« on: February 05, 2009, 05:17:36 pm »
you don't have to tag 30 times in a pitch, it only takes one tag in a pitch to relieve a lot of the burden. also: you do not need a separate line to tag gear, although a separate skinny line lightens up the load even more and there is less risk of pulling the entire haul line out of the ropebag. when using two lines you can tag from higher on a pitch. flake your haul line into a huge ropebucket and connect the skinny tag with an auto locker and flake it on top. you can attach the hauler, lockers, and anchor kit to the auto locker so you can pull it up when you get to the next anchor. tagging can be easy to implement: like on the first pitch or off of big ledges where you can leave a portion of the rack on the ground, attached to the haul line. setting up a tag system from hanging  belays or individual placements is always a craft and you have to use your best judgement, everytime will be different. i always attach the gear to multiple 1' slings attached to a big locker and then put all that into a bag so it has less of a chance of snagging. always attach the gear to a bombproof sling and auto locking biner so there is no way you can lose it. calibrating tension on the fifi that keeps it upright and allows it to unhook is tricky and it takes practice to be more efficient. i found that the wild co ropeman works great for this. the petzl brand fifi is specifically designed to release from anchors and has good illustrations on how to setup hanging tag systems. tagging is something you won't have to do all the time, but if you know how to do it, the system makes things easier, and it might even save your ass on occasion (like when climbing difficult terrain off the belay when the fall factor is high, or when free climbing the runout).

-m

97
Strong work!

Enjoyed the photos and report. Soon it will be spring, route #2 awaits you... go for it!

98
Big Wall Forum / Re: Name that Pitch...
« on: January 28, 2009, 12:19:25 pm »
Lunch- Hint: You took a nice whipper on this pitch at night when the block you were nailing expanded. You tried to go straight up instead of going left where the QD is. Remember? We gave this route a solid 2 night effort and tried to send the variation in a day. Almost. Next year: sub 36!!!

99
Big Wall Forum / Re: Name that Pitch...
« on: January 28, 2009, 09:04:53 am »
yeah, it is on el cap, no doubt, but which route and pitch is it?

100
Big Wall Forum / Re: Name that Pitch...
« on: January 27, 2009, 07:28:47 pm »
here we go again...


101
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Winter
« on: January 27, 2009, 10:03:47 am »
M- anytime. it is all there for the picking. it would be nice if more anchors were installed on the single pitch stuff.

maybe i'll post a topo for the ridge later.

102
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Winter
« on: January 26, 2009, 09:07:41 pm »

california! there are many places to climb year round, including yos. you just have to know where to look. i live in truckee. one heavy snow year I went on a recon mission and found that theres some sick shit only 1.5 hrs away. we put up a nice 9 pitch 10b and tons of single pitch stuff in middle of winter (jan), perfectly warm and happy. nobody in the tahoe/truckee area knows of this place, cuz they are too lazy to go hunt. people would freak if they knew. sooo close, so perfect in winter! about a 5 mile stretch of nothing but granite cliff, big faces and ridges , lots of jtree style cragging, shitloads of FAs still waiting, OMG.

climbing in winter is always more scarce. thats why winter is the time for recon missions and hiking loads. that way you'll be all set when the fruit (snow) melts. you gotta be lookin to find shit.

103
thanks climbhoser, pretty cool modification pimpsqueak.

probably goin ramer or silvretta so i can ski in my climbing boot when approaching climbs and use an AT boot for when I actually want to ski and make turns. word.

thanks,
max

104
Big Wall Forum / Re: Ascenders
« on: January 20, 2009, 08:41:52 am »
I prefer the Petzl. They are just what I am used to. Never had  one pop off the rope.

105
Big Wall Forum / Re: Ascenders
« on: January 19, 2009, 09:50:12 pm »
The new Petzl Ascension looks pretty sweet, just small modifications to the original design, nothing crazy. The Yates ascender is bomber, the open/close sequence is similar to Petzl's.

106
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet Hangers ???
« on: January 14, 2009, 08:28:42 pm »
would i carry only keyhole hangers: no. would i carry only wire loop or cinch hangers:  no. would i carry a selection so i can problem solve: yes. just one of those things, be prepared with a selection of gear, pro when you can get it and make it bomber.

if anyone needs keyhole hangers send me a message via this website, they still exist. will have many in about 3 weeks. many. 2 sizes, one for 1/4" and 5/16" and the other for 3/8". bomb-er. inexpensive to ship.

107
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet Hangers ???
« on: January 14, 2009, 08:32:41 am »
nice 35er.

i would guess the keyhole hangers didn't break, the machine head blew out the rock, did not shear-off.

108
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet Hangers ???
« on: January 13, 2009, 07:30:47 pm »
Dogbone is stronger, not sure of the actual numbers though. Funking on these tore out the 1/2" length machinehead and the 3/4". I like this style better when leaving a long draw or sling is an option. Thickness is the same, the full loop is the difference. When funking the cinch hanger, the cable always breaks above the swage right above the carabiner. The regular full loop hanger breaks less consistently right next to the structural swage, but still did. Still think leaving a cluster of wire rivet hangers and then back cleaning is the way to go with either the cinch or full loop wire hanger since both are not very strong and are designed for upward progress not pro.

109
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet Hangers ???
« on: January 13, 2009, 06:24:23 pm »
The cinch hanger really only holds bodyweight (barely). I was surprised how easily they broke especially since had usually backcleaned for quite a ways after leaving one of these. Testedsome 5/16" machine heads, 1/2" length (only in the rock a couple threads deep), and the cinch hanger broke first everytime. Not best to backclean these, maybe better to leave a cluster of these (maybe three or four in a row, then back clean for a ways). Rad, but not bomber in any way.

110
Found a good website on building your own sled at:

http://www.krabach.info/snow_sled/snow_sled.htm

Now all I have to do is get in shape! Thanks for the beta c-man. (just noticed your signature at the bottom of your posts, nice) I'm a big HST fan myself. Buy the ticket, take the ride, eh?

111
Thanks caribouman, your info has been very helpful. Thankyou. Have you heard anything about the Kifaru expedtion pulk? I am going solo and will probably be be carrying a pack and towing a sled. I can get the Kifaru for about $300, fully equipped, towing harness and all. Looks bomber to me and is in great shape. Worth the cash or is a build-yer-own better and less expensive?

 

112
Good beta. Thanks. Found a good picture of the Ramer at:

http://www.wildsnow.com/backcountry-ski-museum/ramer-comfort/ramer-comfort-binding.html

It does look very similar to the Silvretta. Looks more solid. Couldn't find the Rainey strap binding though. Doesn't Pika make some kind of strap binding. So the way to go (for a climbing approach ski) is probably still something like the Ramer, Silvretta, or Rainey. Would love to cut weight and bulk by just using my ice boot. I have a line on some inexpensive new generation Silvrettas. Any good? The toe bail is now injection molded plastic instead of the wire toe bail. Hmmm. The frame is constructed from carbon tubes instead of the I-beam that the Ramer uses. Hmmm. Wouldn't have to pack an extra boot though. Just rockclimbing shoes.

Just found out that Karhu is making a scaled setup that is 88 underfoot for next year.  Scaled version of their Spire ski. Big ol fatty XCD.

113
caribouman: thanks for all the solid info.

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the Ramer binding. Is that a strap style binding? Is the Rainey similar?

Why the NNN BC? I haven't tried that one but it seems like that one can break super easy especially when applying torque to the ski. Its not the boot but the binding. Seems like the interface between the boot and the ski is so narrow and small that it would be hard to control when going downhill though deep snow. I can see your point about the heel fitting in the groove of the NNN "rail" and it providing more control than a design that doesn't have that (3 Pin). A modification could probably be made to the heel of a 3 pin boot to fit into a homemade NNN rail. My whole theory was that the 3 pin had a wider interface than the NNN BC and would provide
more control and less plastic to break. You are right, I'll probably still use skins to maximize climbing ability. Be able to go straight up instead of switchbacks. I'll probably get a scaled setup even though I found that that scales don't work that well in light pow or ice (duh). Much better glide in the rolling terrain.

What about the Silvretta 404 or equivalent?

I have had success a "tour" type tele binding because of the free pivot action. My La Sportiva Trango boot pops right in, no problem. No damage to the boot either. Too heavy of a binding though.





114
Just tried out the 10th Mtn w/ Voile 3-pin (no cable) and it rawked. So light and quick. Anyone have the Guide? I heard it was a better ski if you are skiing downhill and that it didnt climb as well as the 10th. Maybe the Guide is better w/ BD Glidelite STS? Also: 3-Pin or light AT? Seems like Voile 3-pin is the least expensive while still getting decent control. I just dont know about having that 3 pin boot bending over my toes for long distances. Blister time. Any suggestions on skis or bindings? What do most people use for approaching climbs in the winter?

115
Big Wall Forum / Re: yosemite winter car approach beta???
« on: December 23, 2008, 04:15:47 pm »
"if the speed limit sez 65 go 80. guarantees you'll plow through just about anything."

Just an observation, this is a technique used by tourons here in Truckee all the time. Expect snow, seriously. 24+ inches expected Wed-Thurs up at elevation (which includes crane flat). Careful.

116
Big Wall Forum / Re: yosemite winter car approach beta???
« on: December 23, 2008, 12:41:30 pm »
your odds are good. bring chains for the last bit. the trick is to keep up the momentum. if the speed limit sez 65 go 80. guarantees you'll plow through just about anygthing.

117
Big Wall Forum / Re: Name that Pitch...
« on: December 12, 2008, 09:40:06 am »
Brain Dead  5.10 A4
North Face, Looking Glass Rock, NC.
Climbers are my buddy Danny and Bart Bledsoe

picture taken from p2 of Rowin's. BD is not climbed very often due to the amazing string of #0 heads on the 1st pitch. heres a shot half an hour later when the downpour started. bail!



the rope is being pulled in, not hanging plumb. (btw, on this section of the north face it is easier to look at the climbs with your back to the wall!)

Next...

118
Big Wall Forum / Re: Name that Pitch...
« on: December 11, 2008, 04:52:45 pm »
Quote
carolina hog farm or some shit like that?

close, JH. it is on looking glass. Carolina Hog Farm is just around the corner to the right, out of view. it is to the right of rowin's. a sick bivy exists under this climb that always stays dry.

clue: after climbing the A4 overhanging heads on this route, you would be so mentally drained that doctors could consider you  _____  _____.

119
Big Wall Forum / Re: Name that Pitch...
« on: December 11, 2008, 11:39:16 am »
how is that a hint??? it is not even the same wall. not even in the same state. you are going to overload these poor people's brains posting stuff like that. that is a helluva beard danny had goin there. ;)

120
Big Wall Forum / Re: Name that Pitch...
« on: December 10, 2008, 02:48:24 pm »
hint: blue steel throbber, the code, secret alloys, grand slam of sheep also on this wall.

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