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Messages - marde

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Big Wall Forum / Re: The Sea of Dreams
« on: May 18, 2015, 11:08:20 am »
The expanding flake before belay #23 (in the supertopo) is gone.
So I can confirm the A3 for this pitch (as far as the guidebooks definition of A3 - up to 50 foot fall potential).
More scary than the whipper was only to relead the pitch the next morning.
I can't really comment on the added bolts besides the only solid shiny lead bolt was the one on don't skate mate the rest seemed pretty old.

Sorry I am too lazy for a trip report and forgot a lot in the meantime (climbed it in 2010).

If you have any specific questions I might help.

Big Wall Forum / Re: what is the hardest part of A4?
« on: March 19, 2013, 02:05:08 pm »
If modern A3+ means your going to go 50 feet, then just about every aid pitch rating in the ST book is wrong!

I would call going 50 feet at least A4 but that's sort of beside the point.

The only A4 route i've climbed is rated right in the ST book then.
At least all these A3 pitches on SoD are roughly that way.
I can even cofirm the 50 foot fall potential on one of the A3 pitches (definitely a type 2 fun experience).
The A4 on the other hand sometimes did not feel any harder or more dangerous, besides the hook or book.
This is, I guess, a real you fall you die pitch, still it's not rated A5;
Maybe because the hook placements are not that bad?

Big Wall Forum / Re: 23kg max on flights euro-us
« on: November 16, 2009, 12:08:10 pm »
I think it depends on the airline you fly with.
This year it was 2x23kg from Germany to the US with Lufthansa.
That was at least a good reason for me not to fly with several other airlines,
that were cheaper but then charged a lot for baggage.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Preferred hauling setups
« on: March 26, 2009, 01:47:07 pm »
I rigged my hauling system like this last spring, and it worked perfectly fine. (big Yates pulley, petzl handled ascender)
The only real advantage I see is that you don't need a weight for the ascender.
I didn't notice any disadvantages or strange loading scenarios of the setup.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Pro Traxion things to remember
« on: March 20, 2009, 01:04:58 pm »
thanks lambone, johnmac
looks like a good trick to know the next time.

Maybe I just didn't notice that because I used a fairly long cord for the prussik and some slack,
so I was able to put the hauler inbetween without lowering or hauling over the knot.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Pro Traxion things to remember
« on: March 20, 2009, 08:13:57 am »
...there is no reason not to secure the line with a kleimheist knot muntered to the anchor. It only takes a minute to rig.
I couldn't agree more.

I did it the same way but without the munter, with the rope tied to the anchor as a backup.
(our hauling slave brought up the hauling device)
When the prussik / klemmheist is long enough its easy to set up the hauling.

Just one question, whatfor do you need the munter mule here?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Securing the Hual Bag
« on: February 27, 2009, 07:03:19 am »
...With a partner, they can haul it up off the anchor, making unclipping easy...
That's only true for pitches going up really straight.
I don't know any better system than the munter mule; easy to tie and to release, no device needed
can be done with the lowerout line or the haul lines' tail (I use a lowerout line for that)

but sorry no pics

Big Wall Forum / Re: Jackin' up the winter walls...OOOOOHHHhhh
« on: November 03, 2008, 04:43:56 am »
talkin about something like that?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Wall bumpers
« on: November 02, 2008, 04:30:34 am »
I just thought about hanging the ledge from two points instead of one (horizontaly spaced for ~3-6feet)
so it won't shift just because your partner moves (I'm talking about a double ledge).
You still need the straps in the middle, these just go both to the right and the left masterpoint

Edit to add:
I don't see a reason for this setup beeing less stable than the traditional one in any axis.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Wall bumpers
« on: October 30, 2008, 10:56:09 am »
Anyone ever thought of a suspension system for two masterpoints?
Because a lot of bivies on El Cap have more than enough bolts for that.
And at least a double ledge would hang way more stable so no worries if only one moves on the ledge.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Nose two times April/May '08
« on: May 29, 2008, 09:04:33 am »
Hey thats me on one of the bad dowels pitches on mescalito.

nice pics

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