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Messages - hoipolloi

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10-15minutes.  Short-fix off anchor. tag some gear up partway into next pitch. 

You can't compare to the nose record, too many tricks on that route.  How about to the Zodiac record, 1h45m. 


In all seriousness, I think the biggest thing for speeding up your aid climbing is being able to grab the (right) piece of gear and place it.  That comes with time climbing, both free and aid climbing will improve that.  I get the most frustrated at myself when doing a speedy push when I grab a cam, doesn't fit, grab another, doesn't fit, and have to grab a 3rd.  That is time lost and energy lost, especially if you are straining high in the top steps.

Aid climbing is all about systems, in Yosemite you can almost always have 1 way that you do the anchor-type things, and 90% of the time it will always work.  For example, how you fix the rope.  Keep it simple, do it the same every single time (90% of the time you can).  I recommend 2 lockers and bunny ears to each of those fat 3/8 inch bolts you get in yosemite.  Don't get out a cordalette and tie a huge master point then put the rope on it.  No point, the bunny ears is a master point. 

If you are setting up a haul, I typically use 2 lockers and a sliding X.  I know, we could argue about the safety of that for hours.  But lets be honest, 99.9% of the time, it is going to be fine.  If you really don't like the sliding X, do a quick Master Point (I recommend clipping a biner through the knott so you can get it untied).

Also, aid climbing is about mental control.  You are going to be scared, you must forget about being scared.  Get over it, that is what you came for, existing in a constant state of fear and mental discomfort.  Most of your fear is probably perceived anyways and not actually real (clearly, that is not always the situation, but on those easy trade routes, it probably is!).  So control your mind, jedi mind tricks and shit.  When you place cams, and they look like a cam you would place free climbing, give it a quick bounce, and get on that shit, move to the next piece.  When hooking, pick your fate (your best hooking option) give it a little bounce, get on it.  Very often you see aid climbers stand and stare at a piece of gear (especially hooks and heads), I often wonder if they think looking at it will cause it to become better.  It won't.  Bounce it, if it holds, you can get on it, or not, but if you choose not to get on it, there better be other options, otherwise you are wasting time and you should just be getting on that piece. 

Oh yeah, also, like you said, get some aid ladders, and don't you dare buy 2 sets (as in 4 aiders) buy 2 aiders.  That is all you need.  If you are going up the reticent wall or something really hard, maybe you can think about having some sort of additional aider situation...otherwise, don't even think about it! 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Black Diamond Big Wall Gloves
« on: August 31, 2012, 08:56:43 am »
The bd gloves don't even cover my middle knuckle.  Anyone want to buy a size large, brand new?  20 bucks?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Light Duty? Have you ever...
« on: August 21, 2012, 10:48:53 pm »
I go light duty all the time.

I leave the portaledge and everything else in the car and then I push the captain.  It makes the hike down so much easier.

Here you guys go.  Hope you enjoy it, feel free to flame away.

Big Wall Forum / Re: A New Big Wall Tip-All Things Haul Bag
« on: May 04, 2012, 09:41:17 am »
Nice articles hudon!  You should try to submit those to climbing as tech-tips or something.  They are far better than the crap that often shows up in there...

I'm back. Alive and well.  Absolutely awesome route.  I would  say one of the best wall routes i have climbed.  The Colorado boys have been missing out on a gem for years. 

But it's the Black.  I am required to say its scary, loose and sharp and that there is nothing good in that canyon.  ;)

Hah!  Well, I'll bring back info on Tuesday!  Yyyeeeeaaaaahhhhhhh!!!! 

I think I'm about to fall in love with new big walls. Loose, scary, hard big walls. Yes!

Im looking for info on these bad boys.  HWall has some info out there, but La Visage to Paint it Black seems to have nothing on the web about it.

Anyone know if it has even seen a second? (I am sure it has, but...)

Anyone have info or know anyone who does?

hit me up and lets scheme, I will trade full write-up for a little info!


Big Wall Forum / Re: Rigging Plates
« on: November 06, 2011, 03:34:29 pm »
I guess its not that its 50g but that it is one more thing that, realistically, you just don't need up there.  It might organize things, but so would a dresser and shelving unit, a kitchen cabinet and one of those shoe holder things you hang on a door.  But we leave those behind.

I just say keep it simple.  If you need a rigging plate, you have gone too complex.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rigging Plates
« on: November 05, 2011, 07:21:23 pm »
Seems like another heavy item...  I can see uses but also can't see much reason.

Big Wall Forum / Re: One Day Push of El Cap route Scorched Earth
« on: November 04, 2011, 02:33:14 pm »
Haha Gagner!  That was pretty funny!  We were joking about how they were going to blame Ammon and bust him for it.

Big Wall Forum / Re: One Day Push of El Cap route Scorched Earth
« on: November 03, 2011, 02:19:08 pm »
Thanks Mark.  It has been quite a year...  I think I might have to squeak something else in before the year is truly over though..

That was my 7th new route this season and my 9th ascent of the season.  Phew, I feel mentally tired from them.  But man it has been awesome.

I am going to free climb for a while but if we get some good weather in December I want to do something!

Big Wall Forum / Re: One Day Push of El Cap route Scorched Earth
« on: November 02, 2011, 09:01:12 pm »
We had a good time up there.  That was Me, Sky And Ammon.  I lead the first two and the late late night block to the summit, sky the leviatator and Ammon the first bit.

Wood Blocks, Lovetrons and adventure!

Ill update yall with a litte more in a few days

Sky, Kevin and I just did the speed on Tribal @ 19h48m a week and a half ago.  We been having fun.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Totem Cams: The Aid Review
« on: October 21, 2011, 11:02:10 pm »
ditto.  I have a set of offsets and basics.  Both are as good as it gets.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Zion Routes - Suggestions?
« on: October 19, 2011, 08:42:47 pm »
Eh, I guess I'm over it.  I don't wan't to file all my beaks.  I don't have a sandstone rack of quite the required proportions for that I think...

Unless anyone has some stuff I could borrow.... =) haha

Big Wall Forum / Re: Zion Routes - Suggestions?
« on: October 19, 2011, 06:04:11 pm »

Latitudes looks and sounds cool.  I was looking at that.  How many filed beaks do you think you need for that thing?

Big Wall Forum / Zion Routes - Suggestions?
« on: October 18, 2011, 03:50:50 pm »
Hey any of you out there who have spent some time in Zion.  I might be heading that way for a while and want some recommendations.  The trade routes are great, I am sure I will do some, but I want to do some other stuff too.  I especially want to do some nail ups while there.  Anyone have some suggestions on things you have done or would like to do?  I haven't been and need a few starting off points.

Big Wall Forum / Offsets Aliens and Aliens for Sale
« on: October 05, 2011, 02:16:13 pm »
Hey guys,

I have a set of offset aliens and a set of normal aliens, green, yellow, grey, red, gold all for sale.  Trying to scrape up some bucks and clear out this ridiculous gear bin...

Shoot me an email and we can talk about them.

Anyone need a double metolious ledge?

Big Wall Forum / Re: How well do you have to free climb to aid climb?
« on: October 05, 2011, 01:39:54 pm »
I just did some pretty frightening mantels off hooks on Aurora!  I wouldn't want to be a 5.8 leader for that! wooooweeeeee!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Totem Cams: The Aid Review
« on: September 15, 2011, 12:00:21 pm »
I think they Yellow (about like a red alien) is my new favorite piece of gear.

Big Wall Forum / Totem Cams: The Aid Review
« on: September 14, 2011, 06:54:18 pm »
Sup Guys!  Long time no see.

So I just finished up a review on Totem Cams.  I focused entirely on Aid climbing and thought you guys might be interested!  I was skeptical of this design at first, but I have come to love it.  I have seen these cams do things that I couldn't make other cams do.  I think these things definitely have a place on the big wall quiver (I use them for free climbing too).

Let me know if you guys have questions.  I would love to talk about them (as I really think they are the shit).

Totem Cams: The Aid Review

Big Wall Forum / FS: Aliens + Double Bombshelter Ledge
« on: July 29, 2011, 12:19:38 am »
I have a set of Aliens in great shape - green-yellow-red I need to get rid of, i have SO many cams in this size and need money... $60obo?

Also have a double Metolius bombshelter in great shape I really need to sell.  It has LOTS of walls left on it.  Used, but FAR FAR from Abused.  $500obo??

Email me and we can talk, I can send photos but have shitty satellite internet, uploading is tough.


Big Wall Forum / Re: A haul bag tip
« on: May 26, 2011, 11:44:32 am »
We added a lifter cord like this for Native, it was SO F*****G SWEET.  Its ridiculous how simple this is and how I had never thought of it before...  I was actually able to easily get into the bags at all times without stress.


Big Wall Forum / Re: Block leading and the dynamic pig belay
« on: May 26, 2011, 11:42:35 am »
I whipped while short-fixing on the Shortest Straw, a small fall, 10ish feet, my buddy only noticed because I screamed a high pitch terrified shriek, it wasn't that scary though.... I have lead (jugger) line fixed w/ buttefly to a master point or sliding X.  Then back it up from there to a bolt w/ a fig8 or possibly a clove hitch.  For me, thats good enough, although depending on many factors, I may back it up again or tie it off to the first piece (make sure its in reach from the belay).

My friend argues at the last piece tied should be a clove hitch because it holds the biner in the correct orientation, where the loop on a fig8 can jiggle around and turn the carabiner sideways, causing the pull, in the event of a fall to be on the gate or some such thing.  I HAVE looked down and seen it like this, so I try to use a clove, but sometimes I don't.  Depends on how spicy I want life to be! haha... really though, it just depends on many factors taken into account at the moment.

Lets face it, if you are short fixing, you are doing it to go faster.  You can minimize the added risks, but there are added risks.  Setting up something like you show seems too involved for me, it would slow down the process and not really increase safety by a significant margin.  Just my thought though...

Big Wall Forum / Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« on: May 26, 2011, 11:31:13 am »
Pics to come soon of Native Son!  (My Camera is still buried deep in a pig somewhere).

My Stoke is strong as its ever been!  Doors keep opening and plans keep forming! wooyeah!  Buck Yeah (as I like to say whist on the Captain).

for now.

Shortest Straw, Journey through the Brain:

Second A4 pitch:

Cleaning something up high-ish

Something else:

Coffee, Will Starbucks Sponsor me??

Breaking away from the Zodiac:

Sun & Steel:

Can we get some photos of these things posted up?  What did the originals look like?  What are you monkeys making and what do they look like?

Keep it up.  Awesome JM is sharing these plans!

Big Wall Forum / Re: A haul bag tip
« on: May 10, 2011, 09:40:04 am »
Yeah, nice little tip.  you could probably just throw a shoulder length sling or double length sling on there real fast if you don't have it pre-set.  The webbing wouldn't work as well, but I bet it would still work well enough to unclip that biner. 

I got all the way out, 2 more steps I would have been home free. Almost fell off but managed to step back, then crawled it. Doh!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Pin Trade
« on: May 03, 2011, 09:26:01 am »
well slap my ass and call me sally...


Big Wall Forum / Re: Pin Trade
« on: April 29, 2011, 04:52:43 pm »
Don't think you are going to have much luck.  You need what most everyone needs and you have the same crud everyone has and wants to get rid of... Haha.

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