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Messages - *Mucci*

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Totem Cam Question
« on: October 09, 2013, 04:57:33 pm »
Can we all order as one group and get that fat discount and free shipping?

I need another blue/yellow, they are GOLD!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Yates Slimline Elite BW rope (10.3mm)
« on: October 09, 2013, 03:02:31 pm »
I have been using a 11mm Enduro.

Best rope ever.

Hot Pink to keep up the moral on the chossfests.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Pictures from Tribal Rite
« on: September 27, 2013, 04:22:54 pm »

I can make you one, or two...

Send me your address in a PM.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Pictures from Tribal Rite
« on: September 26, 2013, 04:27:15 pm »
Wow, great pics bro!

What a journey.
I dig the EXTENDER photo, and the rivet hanger LASSO next to hook, get sum!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: September 19, 2013, 06:08:12 pm »

Big Wall Forum / Re: Aid Climbers add no value to free climbing
« on: September 17, 2013, 12:22:30 pm »
Everybody knows that aid climbers pave the way for the more elegant free climbing to be done in the future.

It is a process that has been somewhat harmonious for over 7 decades in Yosemite.

Everybody gets some!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Big Wall Route Names?
« on: September 11, 2013, 03:11:03 pm »
It would be embarrassing to name a new route, the same name as a older/obscure never reported route in the same area.  Part of The FA process is much more involved than for free climbing FA's.

Getting to know the area, where the other obscure stuff goes, and making probes to confirm may take  months.  Respecting others FA'ists paths and future goals is paramount.  Without that respect, it wouldn't be any fun starting up.

Different areas, free game.

Now, Yosemite and Kings Caynon are close enough, same names would not fly...

Besides, Big wall route names come through usually when you least expect them to.

Or sometimes you have the name before you even started.

The shoulders are not ergonomic on the A5,

and the double loop thing munge mentioned would be a key deciding point.

Big Nailing rack?  I would like a yates.

I believe that the A5 is not rated compared to the Yates which is.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Afroman man getting the CobbleD treatment
« on: September 01, 2013, 10:39:09 pm »
Proud send bro!

Way to stick with it.

What's with your affinity for Horni routes?

BWHaHAHAHHAaaa!!! His routes get frequent flyers....

What kind of progress did you make on the clean climbing front?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Afroman man getting the CobbleD treatment
« on: August 27, 2013, 10:46:33 am »
Fired it.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Replacing old rivets
« on: July 22, 2013, 10:58:47 am »
Mark, I make mine with a 1/4 thick grinder wheel, or you can use a cutoff wheel on a angle grinder.

Like this one for the handheld angle grinder.

I just put the arrow in a vice, and eyeball the slot.

If you wanted to get pro on it, hang a jug with water above your work bench, and use a piece of air hose and valve to regulate the flow for cooling as you grind.

I have always cooled the Pin as I grinded away and have not had a problem with one breaking yet.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Replacing old rivets
« on: July 11, 2013, 04:21:25 pm »
Dude, that is some cool stone, I have family near there.

I PM'd you on replacement gear

Big Wall Forum / Re: Replacing old rivets
« on: July 11, 2013, 11:12:11 am »

Why would you not use that hole if you were drilling it out to a larger diameter?

I see no reason, provided the bolt comes out that that placement could not be used again.

Worst case, you drill it out to 3/8ths which would negate all issues pertaining to deterioration.

Of course, if it all goes fubar, drill a nice new hole. 

Minimizing new holes is the name of the game for replacement.  That's why it is a huge undertaking to retrofit a route.

Sounds like there is ample time to try and do the best job possible, as it is so close to the ground.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Replacing old rivets
« on: July 10, 2013, 10:25:54 pm »
If you can thread a nut on, do so and use a tuning fork.  If you can't, beat the stud over so you can get some leverage under the threaded stock, maybe use a couple pins in combo with a tuning fork, or larger wunder bar/crow bar with a 3/8" groove cut in the blade end.

They look like splitshafts, with a threaded end, 1.5" would be my guess.  Though the one without the nut is possibly a 2" which negates the splitshaft theory. They were both indeed bolts and probably utilized a hanger at some point. That type of bolt on an aid route means they wanted more protection than a popular rivet of the time such as a Z-mack, machine head or the dreaded dowel.

I would replace with a 5/16th" button head splitshaft 1"-1.5" long, (I have some I could send you). This will require you to drill out the original hole, provided you extracted the bolt.

If you bugger the pull job, then break off the end flush with the wall, use a punch and beat the stud into the hole and really paste it like a copperhead.  Then patch with some gravel and colored silicone, or liquid nails with dirt embeded. 

Now comes the question, protection or progression?  You decide by what type of bolt or rivet you choose to place.  Drill a new hole, paying attention to the way the first bolt was placed, and from where you can clip it.  Sink it.

I would replace those with a 5/16" splitshaft, if I could use the hole.  If I had to drill a new one, I would place a 1/4" splitshaft button head with hanger.  It would ensure you could remove it later on, and re-use the hole for a proper bolt.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: July 10, 2013, 11:18:05 am »
munge, lets go hit something real quick like.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: July 09, 2013, 06:58:01 pm »
Arrows to the eye.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Mirage
« on: June 27, 2013, 02:48:23 pm »
Erik just did it, I am sure he will chime in.

Bosque did an earlyish ascent of it and he said it was pretty fun, but then again, nothing bothers Steve.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: June 26, 2013, 12:14:55 pm »

I thought this pitch was gonna be knifeblades and beaks, turned out to be Purple camalots and green aliens for 120+ feet. 

WTF, wall season and no pix for months...

Mark, Munge, offset, cobble, anybody?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Are cam hooks actually sustainable?
« on: June 17, 2013, 10:40:04 pm »
No, so you might as well send an arrow to the eye.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Kneel before Zod
« on: June 17, 2013, 10:33:45 am »
Nice work gentleman.

Big Wall Forum / Re: New Bigwall site features?
« on: June 04, 2013, 05:00:32 pm »
I agree that there should be a star or some other marker that shows what routes have FA topos only.  Then those that have the new topo formats/or both.

I like digging for info, and the less the better, but not everybody is into that.

YosBigWalls is filling a huge void in YOS wall climbing.  Obscure routes, which are CLASSIC now have a chance of getting some action.

Keep up the good work Erik, this is a very worthy project and will benifit many who choose a different path than EC routes, or the trades.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Topo's and FA Characters
« on: May 28, 2013, 04:02:03 pm »
Rack was suffice.

The pitches we lead were burly and very dangerous.

Not that I am complaining, we had a great time up there.

The topo was probably just thrown down from a foggy FA memory.

Law told me P2 was definately NOT A1 BWhaAHhaHAHA!!!

Also, without a stick clip (advised by FA) you are going to be hosed trying to get down the rappel route! 

They fixed the lower section....

Very happy to never go back.

Big Wall Forum / Re: SMC Thin Angles!
« on: May 06, 2013, 08:45:50 pm »

I was gunning for those mother's!  ONly up to $44 though as I thought a poofter was bumping the price.

Really Glad we got those in the arsenal! 

Best thin pin going IMHO, MF'ING WELDING Certificate IS VALID!!!!


Big Wall Forum / Re: Standardizing "Nice Ledge" topo designations
« on: May 06, 2013, 04:51:08 pm »
The FA'ist job is to make the route look "appealing" by listing things like "A1 for miles", or Fat bivy ledge, etc...

Truthfully list how bad that bivy ledge is?  NOPE.


At least this is what I have experienced.

Big Wall Forum / Re: pissing on the Nose?
« on: April 23, 2013, 09:48:26 am »
I don't piss or shit on walls.

Keeps me angry for the choss pitches.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Think I need more beaks
« on: April 22, 2013, 07:33:26 pm »
everything I have been on would have been better if I had more hawks.

I am also now using a racking system where you can use the hole in the head on a thin stock biner.  No more tie offs.  4-6 hawks per.

This is the "better way"


Cobbledik may be 128 soaking wet, but that dude can catch some big falls!  HAHAhAHaHAh what are we up to now like 70+ feet?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Think I need more beaks
« on: April 19, 2013, 10:32:02 am »
I would buy 3 ea #1-#2 red and blue hawks.

BD's are good for the straight in cracks, and many corners, but then there are some corners....

I have used mostly hawks for years now, climbing pitches that would never take BD placements due to the cable interfering (getting destroyed).

A nice selection of hawks and BD's is perfect.

40 HAWKS!!!  GET SOME!!!

Big Wall Forum / EDGE PROTECTORS, Core Shots, and Rope Wrangling.
« on: April 11, 2013, 03:28:57 pm »
Man, over the years, I have come across some very bad edges while fixing ropes, finishing leads etc...

I have done everything under the sun from duct tape to knee pads.

Recently Started using the Yates canvas/ballistic velcro protectors.  What a difference having a couple of those around makes.

I bring them anytime we go on something new, or off the beaten path.  Definately not the same card game as a trade route, dealing with the jingus edges and looseness.

We had to use the protector while rappelling as well, with double ropes.  You can hook the protector up with a prussic on the "Pull rope" , put both strands of the ropes through it, then when you pull the ropes, the knott brings the edge protector down to you.


Core shots are the one thing that has plauged me, and I am alway keen on hearing ideas to minimize them. 

Or better yet is those times where the core is just starting, and if you whip its gonna blow for sure.  Taping jobs?

Any good stories?

Big Wall Forum / Re: STOP... Hammertime!
« on: April 09, 2013, 11:16:18 am »
BD YOS hammer for moderate nailing, pretty good for bolting but you have to mill the face off after a few hundred bolts.  The head is made of Stainless Steel.

A5 deucey hammer if you can find one on ebay.  Original design that the D5 was made from.  Heavier than the BD yos, really good for cleaning a nailing pitch. 

D5 Theron Moses hammer.  Hard to find, maybe ebay.  Really good for cleaning a full nailing pitch (nobody does those anymore..) Good for bolt replacement, but your elbow feels it compared to the YOS hammer.

Forrest piton hammer, highly coveted, fiberglass shaft, small pick.  Totally rude hammer, I just got one off ebay after a 2+ year search.  It is now on the roster.

Kong hammers are funky.  The light duty eagle is 18 oz and too light for any real nailing, I have not bolted with one though.

BIg Kong, 24-26oz?  is just too big and awkward, Jim Bridwell design, I have used it for both rebolting and nailing and would never put one in the quiver.

That Petzl tom tom is a POS

The Omega Pacific is a POS and after some moderate bolting the head starts to curl back like a banana peel.  Maybe good for nailing.  The leash attachment has been known to fail as it is a screw or something in the stock of the handle.

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