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Messages - *Mucci*

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Big Wall Forum / What stopped you?
« on: October 29, 2012, 09:05:05 pm »
#3 head I placed myself, with a shorty yates screamer.

Pretty short/hard fall, all air.

Screamer didn't scream, go figure.....

What about you?

Big Wall Forum / Re: PTPP's 2:1 in Climbing Mag
« on: October 15, 2012, 04:42:27 pm »
I made Markn a custom swage in place of the frost draw/tied cord attachment for the upper pulley.

Wonder how that worked out?.......

I just hauled 400+ lbs with my partners 2:1 rig on my last wall.  I would say that having 2 of the same rescue style pulleys (sealed bearing), one on either end is the ticket.

The lower pulley damn near exploded by the end, I will have a sealed bearing style for the next wall.

Big Wall Forum / Re: rope stuck while jugging?
« on: September 23, 2012, 07:56:14 pm »
Best thing to use with those yates bags is a .$99 plastic clamp found in any hardware store.

Pinch the rope when you have just stacked it, and are on the move again.  But don't get one of those pansy clamps with no springage.

Bonus is that when yer done for the day, you can hang yer socks out to dry.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Light Duty? Have you ever...
« on: August 22, 2012, 03:24:54 pm »
Light duty is not in HOI's vocabulary :o

Munge, I have an original bolt bag made my Luke, you have even used it.

I filled a partners haul bag with an extra 12er, light duty for sure.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Azazel Movie from Petzl's Website
« on: August 20, 2012, 12:34:59 pm »

Makes Yos seem like a bigwall crag in comparison.

Capsule style.....Hmmmmm sounds like ALOT of jugging.

So many splitters, and nothing like FA nailing into oblivion.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tempest 3rd ascent Video Report
« on: August 10, 2012, 03:59:26 pm »
That sounds like a real aid route.

Place your own heads-check
Place your own pins-check
Fairly obscure (non supertopo topo)-check
Not blown out-check
Tatless lower-outs-check:)

Kinda one of those routes, you may or may not get done, well if your a mortal.

Bone, whats the hold up? Seems like the next step?  Having a psyched partner is damn near half the work!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tempest 3rd ascent Video Report
« on: August 02, 2012, 05:36:46 pm »
Great vid, Brutus at night was a treat, wranglin back into the belay.

Soloing = World of warcraft

Just sayin :)

Big Wall Forum / Re: My New A5 Expedition Fly
« on: July 30, 2012, 09:44:13 pm »
I have one.  Perfect condition, fits the fish double (thanks cobble) like a glove.

That said I think it is better suited for cold/snow than pacific wetness.

The material is pretty thin oxford, and having to set it up every bivy, rain or shine just to cover your ass is IF the shit goes down is gonna be exhausting.

Now for everything else extreme outside of california, I would think the A5 would shine. 

All of my storms have been weathered in a 3 season BD fly, so they weren't really that bad. 

I may just sell it off for the right price, I won't be needing the cold weather bomberness anytime soon.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Freak Show 2012
« on: June 04, 2012, 11:37:36 pm »
Feels good to be finished. 

Pretty good route, down low you can get altitude easily and quickly.  The middle has some steepness, and the end is punishing.

Rob fired the crux, which had it all coming at you from what I saw.

P6 went down fast as lightning from behind my scope and SNP IN A CAN!! WHOOOOP!!

Ahhhh, yeah, offroute, lassoing, head banging against the MFING rock cuz I needed a MF CLiff hanger!!! AHHGHGHGGHHG

Temporary blindness caused by uncontrollable adventure overload via hummocks and super thuggish (1 #6 friend size thug) cam jugging through coffee grounds pastered on the sides of the flare from hell. 

I got dealt on a C2 pitch...
Natural belay!
No rain, finally.
After some cool free climbing P5
General LD MAYO! Double Down Daly about to fire the best hummock finish to a wall I have ever seen!!!

Fu**ing Craig :)

Big Wall Forum / Re: a5 single over at mp 4 sale
« on: April 12, 2012, 09:00:41 pm »
$250 is the going rate for a barely used A5 ( TNF ) Deucey's ledges bring more on ebay.

My bro just picked up a brand new A5, like the one for sale sans fly for $200 on monday.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Who's gonna rewire my Beaks?
« on: April 07, 2012, 06:49:28 pm »
I hear ya E. Different strokes...

How many placements do you get out of your Yates runners?  What does one cost? Seems they are just a likely to get torn up in corners right?

My yates sewn 4" runner weighs 10.2 grams
My replacement 1/8" cable with oval weights 13.4 grams.

I wouldn't think of using a med or large BD beak without a 1/8th" cable, or a yates sewn runner.

On the small beaks, 3/32" is sufficient for replacement, as they are not going to catch the hardest falls.

Hot damn! WALL SEASON IS HERE!@!!!!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Who's gonna rewire my Beaks?
« on: April 03, 2012, 11:58:20 pm »
PM sent.

Crimpin and pimpin.


Nanook- That would lighten up those 30 beak racks, but how would i make my millions?

I use shrink tubing around the crimp, but you can still get those stray wires.  A fingernail clipper is what i use to tidy up the sticklers.

Big Wall Forum / Re: WTB: big hooks
« on: March 29, 2012, 04:10:42 pm »

This guy is a good dealer, fast shipping and great prices.

Knott the biggest one but large nonetheless.

Ebay "Aid climbing" and take your pick.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Early ascents/repeats
« on: March 20, 2012, 01:28:43 am »
This is about how it goes....

Big Wall Forum / Re: Early ascents/repeats
« on: March 19, 2012, 09:07:45 pm »
Now Munge, we got a 3rd ascent to finish.

Do it Kev, shiny new SS hardware.  Right near some water as well...

There was a great TR about the 2nd of dissorderly conduct on EC somewhere out there..

Mark- Mescalito must have been a whole other route back then, was it not considered the hardest bigwall around for a period?

There was another story about Half dome FA, where the 2nd ascent was on the route BEFORE the FA team had summited! 

At least I think that's the way it went.

Big Wall Forum / Early ascents/repeats
« on: March 19, 2012, 05:45:11 pm »
I got to thinking, I really don't get fired up for routes that have had hundreds of ascents.

Now, on early ascents, you get the whole package.  Full nailing pitches, not more than a head or two fixed here or there...

Anchors that are not sponsored by Hilton. 

Above all else, you have the opportunity to climb the route exactly as the team before you envisioned.  There is not a long period when this is possible.  Fixed gear, features fall off, rivets get added, belays get more comfy..  Pretty soon it gets a grade change, Cwhatever gets listed instead of iron, etc.. 

2nd ascents always seem to stand alone in the proud department.

Problem most of the time of course is finding a partner that's into labor, cuz this ain't no weenie roast!

I have never done a 2nd ascent, or an early ascent :)

Have you?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Hooks
« on: March 19, 2012, 01:27:52 pm »
Bridwell wired up his large throw hooks.  I have one, and it seemed weird to me at first. 

9/16ths is fat and really hard to thread through many of the holes, but well worth the effort.

I agree that having a somewhat "Dynamic" action with the webbing is lost with cable.

Big Wall Forum / Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« on: March 16, 2012, 11:37:26 am »
Fifi buttress-
T-bags hanging-rough topo that clint posted on ST.
Golden road to eternal obscurity
Final Frontier
2 other Mcdizzle routes to the left of Vortex have to ask him.
Kohl route somewhere..

I hear you Eric.  Get em all together, documented, located, etc.. Then narrow the scope of the select book.

It is nice to be able to have input as a community, an option not readily available in the past.

Big Wall Forum / Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« on: March 15, 2012, 05:51:06 pm »
There are many routes in the above list that have not been repeated (on record).

Gobi wall was done by Brad Young and partner in the late 80's I believe.
Flashback has been repeated, heard it was good FWIW (ST poster)
Psychedelic has surely been repeated, Maybe not in the last 20?

My point is, these routes are part of the formation, and deserve the same inclusion as other less traveled/no 2nd routes on the list posted in this thread.  If you are going to have a select book, where will it end?

 Was this your original intent, and have yet revised the list above?

Lines on the formations are a good start.  But for a wall like sentinal, moderate nailing routes should be included. 

Big Wall Forum / Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« on: March 15, 2012, 04:33:48 pm »
I heard there was a euro route on the arches area, near coilers route/Bulging puke?

Sentinal rock should include


Big Wall Forum / Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« on: March 13, 2012, 04:38:48 pm »
Camp 4 terror was done free with variations I believe by Lucho in the mid 2000's

Camp 4 terrorist V 5.12R something.


Seems like there was another route up there.

Big Wall Forum / Re: New Shop!
« on: March 13, 2012, 02:05:49 pm »



oh yeah and the expedition fly's

Big Wall Forum / Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« on: March 13, 2012, 02:03:49 pm »
Firefall wall-Rasmussen
Forbidden wall-Harding/1 other route? Over a hiker trail
hourglass wall-EK

Maybe not all meant for the book..

 Firefall looks badass.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Harness down sliding
« on: March 06, 2012, 04:59:42 pm »
I use a Yates chest harness, which is full strength.

Attached to your seat harness via webbing or dogbone and SS quick link.

It holds everything up.  Now, since you have incorporated your chest harness, you can adjust your swami at will without fear of death.

Attach the haul line to a biner clipped into the back straps, the weight of the rope is offset by the attachment point I listed above.

I can clip my chest in on overhanging jugs and lean way the F out on roofs/overlaps etc...

This is the rig for a nailing route. 

If doing a wall that requires less/no iron, I just rack most everything on the chest harness, and just trail a rope from the waist.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Hauling set up
« on: March 02, 2012, 06:41:27 pm »
Ditto Mike.

Cmi Makes a 3" sheeve that is the tits mcgee...

I use a Petzl Basic grab rather than my jumar.

Though this is a low angle hauling picture, it just takes a bit more OOOOOmmmmPH on the steep.  Keep diggin in till you come tight to your tie in with a BOOOOM!

Repeat till the swill is within reach.

2:1 is cool too, and easy to incorporate after you learn the old robbins method shown above.

The BEST method for hauling since hauling began 246 years ago is still...

Letting your partner do it.

Big Wall Forum / Re: SFWC this weekend
« on: March 01, 2012, 10:20:43 pm »

Munge, you are a foul weather specialist, I have pics to prove it....


Big Wall Forum / Smokin deal on a Met EC Haul bag!
« on: February 27, 2012, 11:40:43 pm »

Dig the color, but am maxed out on bags at the moment.

Perfect for those alpine walls, dark blue to absorb the sun's heat :o

 "How hard is the nailing in that daydream?"

So savvy, best hang on to that one.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Portaledge on Ebay. Good deal?
« on: February 21, 2012, 11:57:58 am »
DIY wall gear successes mandate a photo JC!

Big Wall Forum / Re: I see you Cobble!!!
« on: February 20, 2012, 11:33:27 pm »
Full value dude!

That is one of the coolest places to be in a storm (provided you are prepared).

Nice to see you break through Kev.

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