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Messages - *Mucci*

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Portaledge on Ebay. Good deal?
« on: February 17, 2012, 09:50:35 pm »

Keep watching ebay, you will score a single fish or A5 for around $250.

Doubles usually go for around $400 and up unless they are withot fly.

If you are going to get a double, the fish is a pretty tight fit for 2 normal size dudes, WAY cozy.

The A5 double, not the alpine double is the perfect size IMO.

BD is a monster, and metolious is $$ on the used market due to bomberness.

« on: February 15, 2012, 09:31:39 pm »

Sargentana on the porcelin wall fell to this FA'ist.

So rad, take a pic and a few months and crush something like this....


AAJ 2010 was a good read.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Is it possible to core-out 3/8" stud type bolts?
« on: February 14, 2012, 08:41:23 pm »
Hey sweet there is some interest!

Basically, this thing threads on the stud you want to remove.  If the threads are a bit nicked, a file can be used to smooth the damage to the male thread the device is going on.  If the threads are FUBAR, just torque it and patch it.

You then use a High Speed Steel/cobalt etc.. bit to drill out the core of the bolt.  The puller is more of a guide for the bit.  A 3/8" stud is more like 5/16th if you exclude the threads.  So you drill out the core, then snap the stud off, and either funk out the remaining metal with a tool My friend made, or use your own fabed tool to pick out the metal.

Pretty easy, and I have seen the results up close and personal.

I have put the word in and we will see if/when he can crank a few out with directions!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Is it possible to core-out 3/8" stud type bolts?
« on: February 13, 2012, 08:35:57 pm »
These are for sale, message me for pricing.

As a good friend once said, "the only thing easier than placing a bolt, is chopping one"

Big Wall Forum / Re: Is it possible to core-out 3/8" stud type bolts?
« on: February 13, 2012, 08:29:13 pm »
My buddy made a stud bolt puller.  Pulled at least a dozen or so.

It is about the size of a half a snickers bar.

Use a regular power drill, with 17/64ths HSS bit, drill out the core, pull the remaining metal out with small hook tool and or needle nose plyer.

Way easy, provided you can use a 18v/24v cordless drill where you are doing the removal.

Mr. I sent you a message with a bit more info.

Done it both ways.

If it was me, I would use Fat SS quicklinks, cranked down tight.

The time I did it without the traverse fixed, was more rewarding as it was my first trip.

Have fun up there Kev/Didder!  Big air danglin!

Big Wall Forum / Re: How to protect Bdel Haulbag from rain?
« on: January 25, 2012, 08:42:24 pm »
I have A5's with river bag closure that is not waterproof.

My BD is now in full on patch mode.

What I really want is one of those metolious grande size with the Orange rainfly material dry/river bag closure.

I saw one on the column and it looked FULLY bomber.

Anybody got one fer sale?

I just use a backpack cover, sometimes called a ducks back.  Fits over the bag and under the straps.

Like a giant shower cap, easily manufactured in front of the TV with a speedy stitcher, gortex material (old fly), 1/4" shock cord,  and some Brain food.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: January 19, 2012, 01:59:18 am »

Ahhhhhh......That's better.

Ladders do not pinch your feet.

I carry a BD 5 step aider, with the bottom 2 steps cut off as a sub aider to my two ladders.

If I need it due to steepness, or to be able to test the peice above with my foot, there it is. 

I have been in spots where I could not have moved up without that sub aider.  Maybe allstar IAD aid climbers could have.

No reason to hamper your quest for total wall relaxation with just  2 aiders! 

It takes quite a bit more energy to balance in one ladder and toe off nubs than plop into a couple of aiders....


Big Wall Forum / Re: Renaissance Wall on Higher Cathedral?
« on: January 17, 2012, 01:33:46 pm »
Hmmmm, heard that name somewhere around a campfire....

Care to inform the curious 30 or so people who looked at this thread but have no clue?

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Rapping the base of Leaning Tower
« on: January 08, 2012, 09:07:35 pm »
I rapped that same way, Way gripped at the intermediate belay.

I dig your resilience on the solo efforts.

Thanks for the time spent putting all that info together, good to know

Big Wall Forum / Re: AAC Spitzer Grant Deadline is December 1st
« on: November 13, 2011, 09:55:49 pm »

Skully and I are gonna need ALL 12k for our blue collar expedition to yosemite.

Please send our check to captain skull, seeing as how he is in charge of the hookers and beer. You got the list Captian?

If there is anything $$$ left we will buy a camera and make a TR.

Thanks for all of your support, be sure to check out our Blog


Big Wall Forum / Re: Rigging Plates
« on: November 07, 2011, 10:21:50 am »
I don't think I would use one at a belay, and agree with comments directed at that use.

Good talk.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rigging Plates
« on: November 06, 2011, 08:17:36 pm »
Are 28 gram safety kits a thing of the past?

Things CAN get a bit more complex without a proper kit...


Big Wall Forum / Re: Rigging Plates
« on: November 06, 2011, 11:21:19 am »

An extra 50 grams sounds like it really makes a difference on the big walls :0

Well, thanks for the responses.

Big Wall Forum / Rigging Plates
« on: November 05, 2011, 05:57:05 pm »
Last few walls, I have incorporated them into my hauling rig.  We always bring 2 or 3 bags, 2 double ledges etc..
Man, what a difference they make.  The 3 hole plates are great for 2 bags side by side.

What about at the belays?  I could see using them on main anchor points and such.  However, I have never seen a team do this.

Anybody use them on the front line?

Prefer a certain size, type?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Mucci, got any stories of the recent bidniz?
« on: November 01, 2011, 04:38:16 pm »

Big Wall Forum / Re: One Day Push of El Cap route Scorched Earth
« on: October 27, 2011, 12:49:07 pm »
A push at all, of any amount of time is going to be a record.  One day ascent would be wicked!

Probably the strongest hard aid team you could put together right now.

Best of luck Ammon, Dave and Sky (Sp?)!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Fly size for an A5 single
« on: October 26, 2011, 05:48:45 pm »
I use a BD simple fly when I run my A5 single.  It is a bigger fly than the A5, which allows you to really button it down no matter what length the ledge is at.  It is knott a 4 season fly however, Fish may have something more bombproof in that arena.

The single deluxe by BD is nice but in no way worth the money vs. sufferage exchange.

BTW, your double is going on repair #3 right now!  Man that is one tough ledge.


Big Wall Forum / Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« on: October 26, 2011, 02:40:15 pm »
Very cool, M & M back at it!!


Big Wall Forum / Re: Mucci, got any stories of the recent bidniz?
« on: October 26, 2011, 02:39:14 pm »
Belays were intricate.  Our mobile city had everything, we spared nothing in the pursuit of total comfort.  One bivy stood out among the other 6 however.

We had  3 ledges going, so spreading out rather than up was preffered.  I wanted to set up to the right of steve and Lars, so i busted a free move or two and threw in a orange Metolious TCU under a flake, equalized it loosely with the button head I drilled. 

30 or 45 min later, as I am doing a final "Safety" check with the team, I stand up and go to adjust the rig.....


OH shit, this is gonna cause some trauma.  The cam blew out the flake, and rocketed into Steve's head (minor bleeding).  I was falling/swinging down and left, surfing the Fish double straight for Lars who was surely going to get decapitated.  Thankfully, Lars was lying down or something and my ledge slammed into a couple of our bags.

The comments from Steve and Lars were casual "That looks like a good spot" and "Pass the shit kit would you".

Big Wall Forum / Re: Need Beta on Premeditated in the Pinnacles
« on: October 15, 2011, 12:45:26 am »
Long thick arrows dude.

Send em to the eye!

Big Wall Forum / Re: How well do you have to free climb to aid climb?
« on: October 04, 2011, 10:14:57 am »
It's all scary up there.

5.5 - 5.10 can all feel the same.

There are really only a few routes with mandatory 5.10, or even 5.9 out there.  I have not found them yet but don't have the mileage that others here do.

I have never put on the free shoes once the hauling started. 

I can think of 10 routes you could do right now with nothing harder than 5.7 free sections.

No reason to stop the train, just keep on rolling to sendville!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: October 03, 2011, 12:16:17 pm »

This one might make Hudon cry.....Light heavyweight with a big sheeve :O

Get some!

After some waterfall climbing, before it got grim.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Helping Injured Vets thru Activity
« on: September 28, 2011, 11:29:49 am »
Wow Rob!

I am in, Tim is the real deal.

He said some things to me years ago, that in turn have shaped the climber I am today.

I have much respect for T.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Need Beta on Premeditated in the Pinnacles
« on: September 26, 2011, 10:09:17 am »

This is the Crux, I did not have time for the fear to catch up.

DFU territory that I have knott found on a granite pitch yet.

Doing this route clean would require balls of helium.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: September 26, 2011, 09:37:21 am »
Better have 20+ Blue Hawks for this one.

Mr. - A1 beaks means they caught a good winger right?  HAHAHAH!

Those BD beak cables are more like A1+ :-)

Big Wall Forum / Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« on: September 12, 2011, 06:46:32 pm »

No pictures but in getting some mileage on easy routes, I noticed that most heads are #3 or #4 heads.  Most are pounded to oblivion with a hammer.  I am knott talking about jolly rodger or such with small wired heads, rather moderate everyman routes.

In placing my own heads, I have prefered to use a smaller head where a larger one would have worked, and paste it with the appropriate size tool.  I carry 2 chisels and 2 punches for the work.  Mostly for embedment in the stone, trying to use the natural wedge action.

Problem is, most guys who are in shape for speedy ascents, clip and go, and those who move slower don't do enough maintenance.

Pull all the heads and the "Inaday" ascents plummit on routes that relied on them prior.  Let's face it, without insitu heads, nobody is getting by without some pasting.

Bailing would increase tenfold if you had to actually aid climb on the trades.
I would bet many guys have done A4 routes all over the valley without ever pasting a head. 

Mark- I know you are doing your best to prove my last statement to be false :)

Big Wall Forum / Re: Ledge repair
« on: September 12, 2011, 06:34:17 pm »
I fixed a friends double, it had ejected him on a climb last year and so I went the extra mile to repair the bed, new shock cord, and had a machinist bend the jingus bars back into shape.

So, with refurbished rig in hand, we set off for a few days.

Climbing is great, set up the bivy and so starts the horror show.  As I watch him put it together for 20 min, I notice it is really tight, very snug no sag at all. He is above and to my left about 6 feet.  He settles in as I am fussing around on my ledge below when I hear  it.  CRACK!! As I look to my left, an inverted body engulfed in a broken pretzl ledge is falliing toward me.  Just before impact, he manages to grab an aider on the way down (slack tie in :).  Horrified as he comes to a stop, I casually offer some assistance....Oh I got it, "damn that was 9 out of 10 on the bivy swan dive I say"

The whole night, just above me was a friable, barely there frame just waiting to explode again.  I did not think it was gonna make it at all.

DIY can be very exciting!  Just make sure those tubes aren't THAT beat up ya dig Mike?  HAHahAH

Big Wall Forum / Re: Why webbing over swaged cable loops on hooks, etc?
« on: September 06, 2011, 10:41:55 pm »
I agree that abrasion is the biggest concern. One or two hook moves where your scoping left and right in the ladders and the cable is toast.

On large throw hooks, it doesn't matter much, Got a bridwell skyhook that is swaged!

I do all kinds of swage work, if anybody needs some new cables for the beaks and such let me know.

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