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Messages - *Mucci*

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241
Big Wall Forum / Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« on: September 06, 2011, 10:06:31 pm »
Mark,

I agree with your charge in removal of bad heads.  I dig standing on my own heads as well.  EVERY head gets a yank?  probably knott.  The trick to aid climbing these days is to recognize when a head is in a fragile/natural placement.  That is when care is needed on removal or if you decide to clip up.

Now I would venture that a good portion of heads on the standard routes are in trenches or were enhanced.  Removal does no damage to these trenches if you use an appropriately sized butterknife ( I carry 3 different sizes).  Now, if you go all oldschool and clip in your funkness to your waist, put yer feet on the wall and use the ole back to yard em out, you may just accomplish your goal of getting a rivet by a former head placement.  Which by the way i think is a step in the wrong direction.

Heading and beaking have been two of the most intricate and tenuous forms of progression I have done, both tend to show up around the same time....on the same pitch.  Finding your mojo with #2 heads is what makes it all worth it.  Nothing else will work bar drilling.  Nothing for a beak, just a groove.  Now that is climbing to me, hard to replicate on popular EC routes I would think.

Another aspect to consider is that most heads you see are the wrong size for the placement, 3's where 2's should be, 2's where 1's should be etc...  More metal to rock is not the answer to heading. 

Not trying to come off pro heading these days, just want to point out that it can be done thoughtfully and with minimal impact.

Good luck on SS Mark! 

Cheers!

242
Big Wall Forum / Re: Daisy Chains and Tethers
« on: August 29, 2011, 12:06:06 pm »
I changed the style in which I climb, thus aborted the 2 adj daisys.

Mike- I rated that fall to one I foolishly took recently, which was way less steep and 1/2 the distance.   I have concluded I would be a hobbit afterward :0

Didn't Kristoffer take a really bad one on surgeon generals 1st or 2nd pitch?  

I also think the 5 mm perlon + a sheath of 9/16ths over it, is the best solution for a tie in.

243
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: My Gumby Adventure (and big fall)
« on: August 28, 2011, 08:33:40 pm »
I have seen that section spit many a climber off.

Mike, when you were doing a night push with 3, I remember your leader took a ripper there as you guys were eating pizza!

on other trips I saw 2 others come screaming off there.

Bad place to fall, probably the worst on the whole route.

For some reason, that is the one pitch I have not lead on that route in 3 trips.  Guess I am gonna have to see what it is all about :)

Glad you are ok, and self rescued!

Thanks for the TR, and keep the psych!

244
Big Wall Forum / Re: Daisy Chains and Tethers
« on: August 28, 2011, 08:28:00 pm »
Mike-

I use a standard metolious daisy on each aider.

I also have a yates adj Daisy with a fifi attached to the end.  I don't use it unless it is steep.

The rig I used for years was a Yates adj on each aider, I would waist test with them all of the time.

I took a 5 foot (really fuc**** hard fall) on a yates adj which was clipped to a El cap ground booty alien!

No danger, back was ok and the daisy and alien went on to see many more summits FWIW in regards to strength.....

  If that had been on my current rig, I would be out of the game.

So I changed my approach to leading/testing when I went to my new setup.

My thought, for you as a soloist, is to use a 8mm/9mm dynamic cord with a clove hitch and stopper knott or somthing similar.

Dynamic, adjustable, and better than anything out there for burl and generall bomberness.

245
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Zodiac Solo Aug 9-13
« on: August 19, 2011, 12:20:04 am »
Very cool Brant!

Congrats on gettin that EC solo notch.

cheers!

246
Big Wall Forum / Re: SS/PO anchors
« on: August 15, 2011, 11:42:42 pm »
I am sure you will put forth a good replacement effort if needed Mark.

In regards to machine head rivets.  You can place 5/16 in a 1/4 HSS drilled hole, but won't get depth.  (Definately not a sds 1/4) or you will blow the hole out.

You have to grind the threads down, enough to get the rivet started, then when you send it home the upper threads conform into bomberdom.

However, the more holes you drill with your HSS 1/4 bit, the deeper the rivet seats.
 
Mark, that rivet in your pic could be ANY size, there is no way of knowing.  I tend to use the 3/4"length when I reach for a machine head, and usually get around 1/2" embedded. Stainless steel is preferred both for it's malleability and longevity.

However, on replacement I agree with mike and like to see the splitshaft buttonhead go in.  Machine heads usually do not come out easy, or cleanly.  If the head is broken off, punch the stud in and patch, then drill a new hole for a proper rivet.

Also, I don't know what kind of drill you have, but if you drill a hole with a 1/4 SDS bit, and try and sink a splitshaft, you will dinnerplate the placement.

Good luck!

247
Big Wall Forum / Re: Zenyatta Mondatta, Solo, June 2011 Photos
« on: July 26, 2011, 05:52:42 pm »
Two 200lb guys using a 3:1 system are generating 1,200 pounds of force IN the system.  A multiple of 3, that much I know is true.

I think I am confusing forces in the system with actual anchor forces generated in a pulley system.

There is A LOT of info (including SAR scenarios) where friction alone causes increased forces on an anchor.

Arborists maintain the thought that there is an increase in anchor forces once friction comes into play, just the same as hauling on a slab.

Either way Mark, I just found it odd that you don't have a back up to your system.  

Excited to hear from offset, and get the scoop.

Cheers!


248
Big Wall Forum / Re: Zenyatta Mondatta, Solo, June 2011 Photos
« on: July 26, 2011, 02:07:17 pm »
I think I just garnered some info that will make the whole process much easier!

As to the mechanical advantage system increasing the forces on an anchor....

It most certainly does.  In a 2:1 I think the forces are multiplied by a factor of 3 depending on the set up.

If you haul 1:1, the forces on the anchore are doubled.

With loads like what Pete hauls, I bet the forces are in the thousands on the anchor.

Food for thought.

thanks for the explanations and photos, really cool stuff.

249
Big Wall Forum / Re: Zenyatta Mondatta, Solo, June 2011 Photos
« on: July 25, 2011, 09:40:30 pm »
Wow!

Great pic showing the rig.

2 questions Mark:

-When starting out (heavy loads >200lbs) Do you always haul off of 1 bolt?  Or build an equalized sub anchor? Big loads X mechanical advantage = HEAVY forces. 

-On your 2:1 black cord, do you keep a certain length, to adjust the hauling length at the belays with a clove hitch or something similiar?

I have thought to keep a bit more just in case there is a fat sloping ledge or something you can really "Run" down, rather than multiple movements to move the bag up before resetting the system.

Thanks for all of the info!


250
Big Wall Forum / Re: Nailing
« on: July 16, 2011, 10:45:11 pm »
I like the way a good fat angle sounds in crumbly kitty litter placements.


Oh, and that smell......

Skully NAILS it!

251
BTW: if you cache on top, make sure to bring it down. After ZM, I cleaned out the entire area of water bottles left in the bushes, 5 gallons worth. Unless it has a name and date on it, I consider it garbage and will be removing it from the top whenever I can.

Thank god for Porters :)

Hauling other peoples crap off the top is a selfless act by a standard team, Solo with porters is just plain smart.

252
Big Wall Forum / Re: 100m hauline?
« on: June 14, 2011, 06:26:21 pm »
Damn Matt,

You got the rope fever!




253
Big Wall Forum / Re: Making or getting ahold of a butterknife?
« on: June 14, 2011, 01:43:22 pm »
I bailed at the start of 5 last fall. Going clean was not happening.

nothing fixed at all, just blobs.  Somebody ripped the thing from the start of the bolt ladder.

Definately A3 for at least 5 placements off the belay when I was there, provided you had beaks and heads to paste.

Tons of junk.

How much of that first part was fixed?

254
Big Wall Forum / Re: Pictures on the main forum page?
« on: June 02, 2011, 07:41:55 pm »
Abraham..... DUH...I am not very good this !


Makes me wonder if all three are Duece inspired???

I know I've seen that hook placement somewhere....

255
Big Wall Forum / Pictures on the main forum page?
« on: June 02, 2011, 05:41:08 pm »
The three pictures listed on the "Forums" page here at bigwalls has alway intrigued me.

The first, and This is just a guess, is the Diamond?

The second Pic of the dude Hooking is Southern man?

And the third pic of the bivy is who......? Deucey?

256
Big Wall Forum / Re: Joining a static and dynamic rope
« on: June 02, 2011, 03:52:30 pm »
I think the alpine butterfly incorporates another bend/loop.
 
Great knott for rigging belays as well, particularly if it is vertically oriented.

I use a figure 8 follow through with finish knots on both sides when joinging static/Dyn.

Good info here as usual


257
Big Wall Forum / Re: The entertain Mucci thread
« on: June 02, 2011, 03:48:17 pm »
Good thing I quit the camels....

258
Big Wall Forum / Re: The entertain Mucci thread
« on: June 01, 2011, 09:56:51 pm »
HAHahHAHAAHhhhahahaa!!@!@!@!$#$

Thanks for the thoughts and pix, man thank god I don't have that aid climbing gut anymore :)  Though that was a nice and relaxed circus wall.

I have a good picture to add, but only in due time.....


259
Big Wall Forum / Re: SOS. On dinner ledge
« on: May 28, 2011, 11:17:45 am »
Be sure to fix down reanimator, much easier dude.

While sieging Southern Man, we fixed 4 ropes in march, bounced down to curry, beer, pizza, and cigs.  Problem was, the case and a half dwindled on the way back up, and ascension took FOREVER.

Have fun brother CAZ!

260
Big Wall Forum / Re: Making or getting ahold of a butterknife?
« on: May 26, 2011, 10:21:37 am »
Removing and replacing the head on subsequent ascents will rapidly destroy the placement

The old method was to clip in and yard the head out with your feet on the wall using all of your back power.  Yes this does damage to the placement.  With a butterknife, you can surgically remove the head, and leave a perfectly good placement behind.  Sustainable?  Not for the long haul, yet better than the alternative.

How did ZM get climbed for the first 15 ascents?  I promise you  heads were not left behind, it just wasn't the style of ascent in those days.  You removed your heads on the way up.  SOOOOOOOO did all of those head placements get blown out?  Nope.  They got fixed, and so the trend began.

Trenching need not come into this conversation, seeing as how that was a favorite tactic of many at that time, not to mention that route. 

I would venture to say that "Most" EC climbers have never climbed pitches where they were forced to head there way up.  It just isn't the way aid climbing progressed over the years. Style changed and so did the climber.

So, new wave climbers, clipping their way up A4 routes, are getting the short end of what used to be a mandatory skillset in aid cllimbing.  That is why many "Incompetent" and "Green" aid climbers can send routes that "Were" testpieces due to the lack of technical hammer work needed.

261
Big Wall Forum / Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« on: May 25, 2011, 11:35:44 pm »
That is a great picture.  Love that pitch.

262
Big Wall Forum / Re: Making or getting ahold of a butterknife?
« on: May 25, 2011, 11:14:18 pm »
You still clip em though Bone.

Bet you would change your tune if you were strung out on a new route and the only thing that would prevent a rivet is a #2.

I wonder how many routes would get sent if Head sections weren't fixed?  Problem is most of the "Incompetent" can't tell the difference btw a head placement and a beak placement.

Is clipping your way up A4 via fixed heads really climbing? 

Honest Question.

263
Big Wall Forum / Re: Making or getting ahold of a butterknife?
« on: May 25, 2011, 10:02:44 am »
Mark-

Very few climbers are relaxed enough to remove/replace the trashed heads/fixed gear on most routes.  Just clip the time bomb and say you lead A4.

I know you will do a good job up there and make the next teams exp that much better.

Cobble- You got a "HEAD FIXATION" and the only cure is more COWTAILS :)

264
Big Wall Forum / Re: Making or getting ahold of a butterknife?
« on: May 24, 2011, 04:25:46 pm »
Anyone been up the nose recently enough to say whether there's many deadheads such that bringing a butterknife up this weekend would be worth it?


No, it is knott worth it.

NOw SEND!!!

Mark-  Nothing better than setting your own head, sometimes WAY more bomber feeling than a descent beak.

Which brings up a question to the masses, I recall on the PO wall, Ricardo? was facing a blown out head placement, and rather than enhancing the same placement which would take 2 seconds he chose to drill a rivet.

Maybe it's just me but, if faced with the same situation, you better believe there would be a head placed.

What are some of your takes on dealing with that kind of junk while on lead.

265
Big Wall Forum / Re: WC Zeros - Z1 & Z2
« on: May 22, 2011, 09:52:00 pm »
clean climbing has it's limit in my arena.

The grey and green are not something I care to dangle with.

Forget about that purple rurp cam.....

However, I dig the bigger sizes.

266
Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: May 10, 2011, 08:35:45 pm »

267
Big Wall Forum / Re: Pin Trade
« on: May 03, 2011, 12:41:26 pm »
Before the colored Tomahawks, thin corners were all about blades/heads and arrows etc.

Now you can get 15 of each type of hawk and send some pretty rude corners.

Just the tip, see how it feels.... Yup, it stuck!

Still bring a few blades, and some LA's. The #3 BD Pecker, which is the same size as a #5 La, is scary big, so I don't  carry those.

I am gone for the weekend but let me know if you need any more angles.

Mucci

268
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Early Season Prow Solo
« on: April 07, 2011, 12:57:39 am »
Nice Brant!

I would have imagined the beginning of 2 would be a sludgefest....

Was P5 (start) still ripped out?  Nothin but blobs.

Way to get after it.

269
Nice video, a sort of semi-push of suffering, gotta dig that!

Fast or slow, that route is the definition of classic.


270
Big Wall Forum / Re: Making or getting ahold of a butterknife?
« on: March 24, 2011, 05:46:43 pm »


You will need a grinder, and a bucket of H2o.

It takes a while to get the stock knocked down enough to shape it, dunk in water often.

I like a 1/2" for #1-#2's, and a 3/4" for #3 and up.

It amazes me what kind of crap people are willing to trust.  With a BK, you can have a new head set in 1 minute.

Skully's link nails it.

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