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Messages - *Mucci*

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Portaledge Design Discussion
« on: March 18, 2011, 12:15:34 am »
Good points Lambone,

How much for your A5 rig?

Big Wall Forum / Re: The Murder of the Hammock-able
« on: March 18, 2011, 12:11:39 am »
I did my first few grade V's in a forrest Deluxe hammock.

I did not know that bivies were supposed to be comfortable.

Hell, I could barely make it into my bag on 2 occasions, just froze there till morning.

Those days are long gone, every portaledge bivy since has been a blessing.

I have not suffered as much since I made the switch, bivies are just like home.

I do like to bust out the hammock for the belays now if warrented, good to have as back up as well.

Glad to see guys like Mark and Dave so psyched on the hammock, it's a revolution!

Munge- I designed a deluxe job with a thermarest slot sewed in, beer coozies, and rainfly.

I will bring it for you when we head back up to the freak:)

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: MESCALITO
« on: March 09, 2011, 07:18:17 pm »
Damn Brent, Watched the whole motion Picture.


Full value, base jump to boot.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: March 09, 2011, 06:45:06 pm »
Nice Mr.!!!!

Fuel for the Fire.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Climbing in winter conditions, done it?
« on: March 01, 2011, 01:36:55 pm »


Get rid of the crab, time for the penguin mascot.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tony Montana! Tell us a story!
« on: February 23, 2011, 01:25:14 am »
A few more pics.



Bitchin views of Broderick and Half Dome.

Thanks for the comments!  I will run this thread by Steve.

Cobble- Chuck had just undergone wrist surgery, screws and metal, in his hammer hand.....

Climbing with him tomorrow :]

Big Wall Forum / Re: TONS of Aliens on Ebay, whats the deal?
« on: February 19, 2011, 08:08:25 pm »
If you look, a lot of the auctions are from the same seller, and or few sellers.

Many are reslung and very recongnizable.   I have seen the same ones up for months at a time.

Also the seller will FILL the page with different assortments of his aliens to make it look like some in groups of 4 are cheaper than groups of 2.

Common selling tactic.

During the spring/autumn season, hard to find one for less than $90

Offseason, tons of aliens, lower prices etc...

The standard alien is not as necessary as the offsets, Ebay reflects that.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Gri gri on the big falls?
« on: February 11, 2011, 11:29:00 pm »
Yeah, not the rope cutting, but breaking the biner or the grigri on a crossloaded fall.

My only point is that a steel biner, and a piece of rubber, eliminate the need for you to have to worry about your self belay systems orientation.

That dude on EWay spelled it out for everyone, broke his biner in half running the same system.  At first they thought the gri gri "Cut" through the biner.

That is enough for me.  

Then again, what are the chances?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Gri gri on the big falls?
« on: February 10, 2011, 11:36:58 pm »
I have never whipped on my Gri Gri, yet I am prepared for it.

I have seen guys more than a few times, just tie into the Gri lilke you would for belaying.  Aluminum locker, gri, rope.

Any fall, could snap the carabiner, and or break the gri gri.  Crossloading happens, those who use this system can attest.

I use a 40kn steel carabiner, then rig a peice of rubber innertube around the gri gri.  It does no float on the biner.

Depending on the pitch, I may clip into the leg/swami, or just the belay loop.

For those who shortfix most of the time, this adds about 5 seconds to the tie in.

You will never break the biner, and the gri gri won't snap like a chicken bone after the big one.

There is allways the Kong GIGI!!!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Anyone on Re-Animator lately?
« on: February 03, 2011, 01:05:50 am »
I was on the Prow when a couple of coffee table size chunks came off above Pitch  8 of Animator.

Terrifying, almost killed a few teams at the base.

This was september last year.

Another rock fall recently?

Big Wall Forum / Re: ZM - A TR for Skully
« on: February 02, 2011, 06:26:02 pm »
Thanks for the peek HOI!

That route saw alot of action over the winter, your ascent was made vivid by the choice words.

Nice to see your staying dialed in...


Big Wall Forum / Re: Popped my cherry!
« on: November 09, 2010, 12:30:58 am »
Nice Pie!

Way to stick with the mojo and take it down!  Man, you will never forget (and will always try and achieve) that feeling at the top out!

Pics are mandatory.


Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Baffin Island E. Coast Ski Madness
« on: August 18, 2010, 12:50:10 am »
So sweet!!

What would a trip like that cost? 

Thanks MR.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Speak up people!
« on: August 16, 2010, 11:15:34 pm »
There I go again, trying to steal all of the leads.....

Ok, if I get a can o dat chalk spooge, she can lead all the thin pitches.

Hope your launch goes well Wolf.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Speak up people!
« on: August 16, 2010, 10:34:01 pm »
Whoa Wolfman!!!!

Damn, your crew is easy on the eyes!

AHHH, sign me up if she is able to belay.

Big Wall Forum / Re: The pussification of big wall climbing
« on: August 12, 2010, 12:38:54 pm »
So, you take a route that may have seen 3 ascents in 40 years, and Drill on every pitch in one way or another.
All of that effort to create a "Milk Run" for your website?

I have seen an old hand drawn topo of the GSR,  there must be at least 20 new holes from the beginning to the end.

Eric, you are blinded by the spray.  YOu consistantly post TR's about your bolting exploits, only to get "HUSH HUSH"  When it is our turn to speak?
You would never post this shit on the Taco now would you?.....NOpe b/c you wouldn't want to tarnish your bread basket of new wall climbers.

I see you did not touch TORA BORA?  Why not ERIC?  OH that's right, it's a COILER route.... drill on that one?  No way would you touch that route, then you would have to deal with Brian. You prefer to destroy the routes that have fallen into obscurity.  The lines that have no voice.

Well, here is my voice:  I know you just sit back and laugh at all of this.  Probably think that most here are not getting wall time in, rather just spewing on your parade of bolts.  Well, there are a few of us who don't need to write up TR's about our climb.  Rather, enjoying a route is JUST GOOD ENOUGH. 
No TR's, No topos, no bolts, no drama.  Ever wondered what that feels like?  I bet it has been a while for you.

Look inside yourself eric, are you giving yosemite a chance? 

Words on deaf ears.

Josh Mucci

Big Wall Forum / Re: The pussification of big wall climbing
« on: July 30, 2010, 12:29:41 am »
I think the real issue is that Erik has been going solo.  When you include a restoration effort, coupled with a few pitches with some consequence.....

How Many HAND DRILLED bolts are there on your variation? Seems like alot of work to bypass a few sketchy pitches to me.
Further, a ladder of BOLTS up and out of a roof in no way compares to leading the route proper.  So how can you write the topo accurately?

If there were features, and an obvious way to naturally protect the variation, I think a few bolts would be okay.  Provided I had talked to FA about my plans

Just don't see it your way eric,  and there are not many who care, but understand you drilled one of the most rude ladders on that side for a 1 pitch chicken exit.  No way you are ever gonna convince the few your actions were justified.  The rest of the folks who you are marketing this route to will surely enjoy the A0.

I just hope you post the ORIGINAL line on your topo, or at least the parts you climbed and an educated guess on what you skipped. That would be the first step in recovery.

WTF happend to HOLE COUNT management?  You have more holes in your variation than a 1/2 dozen 12+ pitch wall routes I can think of..

That is a shame, never even gave the route a chance to prove it's worth

Best REgards,


Big Wall Forum / Re: Summer wall suggestions
« on: July 16, 2010, 12:00:26 am »
Hope it all works out on the homefront Caz, keep it up with the positive attitude.

Forget about Liberty Cap.

Crispy Critters was our mantra, and it only made it to the low 90's.   Not alot of wind up there.

This is stuff I have wanted to do during the heat:

Any one of the coiler routes on the spires, bound to be big fun up there.
A bit on the obscure side though...
Most are in the A3 range, if you check Supertopo there is a thread going around with most of the routes and locations.

Higher Asperations is said to be a good romp, with moderate nailing.

Falls wall, never been there but the sun window looks fairly short on the West side.

Leaning tower- WDD? Disco Strangler?  Skully knows about that one I think.

Mt Watkins- Bunch of long routes and it goes into the shade pretty early.

Good luck man, and keep the psych!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Half Dome - Right Side
« on: July 13, 2010, 09:24:22 pm »
Very well said!

That is exactly the impression I got from steve as to the overall effort of the climb.

One Quote from a friend in the supertopo thread says it all.

"In Steve's words Bridwell said, "Steve this is your chance for mediocrity or greatness."

Sean, Steve and Bridwell all worked construction together during that period, well maybe not sean?  Either way, Bridwell knew steve and sean had it in them, and Peter had proven himself with the bird on ZM.  The pitch I mentioned above was steve's first A5 pitch, which he said he will never forget. 

They got it right, a route that will never see traffic did not need convienence rivets, rather some trenching and enhancements kept the route up to par with the bird's vision of a sustained route right up the pipe.

Whoooop!  the half dizzle is alive!!!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Half Dome - Right Side
« on: July 13, 2010, 01:38:06 pm »
I talked with Bosque about the chill alot over the past few months.  He said it was in your face the whole way.  Each team member had rest days after leading the day before.  Much needed, some leads took a LONG time. 

Bridwell pushed all of the team members to avoid drilling, and the result is some wicked heading.  On the A5 pitch steve lead, bridwell tells steve to head up a corner (all heads) to some hooking, then penji off the hooks to the left to a corner.  100 feet of small heading when a short rivet ladder to the left could have gained the same corner right off of the belay!

C2?  Hard to imagine but i do know just about everyone took a fall on that climb.  Bridwell's 1st fall since 69'.

Mr. - have you done the chill?

Oh and Beaks made thier first appearance on that climb. 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Old dogs learning new tricks
« on: July 08, 2010, 04:33:23 pm »
Very true Nick.

Yet I have never bothered bringing a piece of gear that is useless in every other application on a wall. 

The 8mm cord can be replaced with cordelette, tag lines, lower out lines etc...

I have used the yates (same pair) for years, sure they are wearing down and a new set is in the works but I have never considered bringing a spare.

I guess any flat 1" webbing would work as well, hand tying the two knotts, so maybe that is the way to go for me.

Do the replacements have the ring?  Or are they open ended for you to tie the knott?

Have you had a strap break on you? 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Any other OC Wall Rats?
« on: July 08, 2010, 01:32:10 pm »

Yeah, but what about all O that POO?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Noob Questions and Beta requests!
« on: July 02, 2010, 12:23:22 pm »
After a bit of heavy hauling you will not have much stretch left in the line.

Another note worth mentioning, if you use a static line, and get the bag stuck on a rooflet, you can't "Bounce" the haul line to unstick it.

A dynamic cord for hauling gives you more options.

When you get into a groove on the hauling, the dynamic cord sort of bounces you back up to the Pulley which is nice.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Noob Questions and Beta requests!
« on: July 02, 2010, 11:55:52 am »
Try using a old lead line of any diameter, cheap and doubles as a lead line if the #1 gets trashed.

No need to buy a new cord for hauling, Just tape up those core shots!

Hope you have fun man.


Big Wall Forum / Re: Old dogs learning new tricks
« on: July 02, 2010, 11:53:09 am »

Kate uses titanium Ushba ascenders, with a piece of 8mm? Ice line.

The idea is a smooth feed out to clip and easy to pull tight.  Achieved with one hand easily.

The cord is replaceable on the wall, vs the Yates adj daisies which are useless if they break.

The cord ensures that there is no twisting due to the Clusterfriggage of your trays flying around.

Looks pretty slick, yet expensive.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: The Chronicles of Ten Days After
« on: July 02, 2010, 09:30:51 am »
Nice boys-  I just saw this here on the BW!

Man what a cool looking route, and big smiles all the way up!

Way to step it up you two.....6 pins ain't bad.

How was that cool hooking I've heard about?

Nice send!


Big Wall Forum / Re: which ones...
« on: July 01, 2010, 10:38:29 am »
I have been using the yates ladders with yates adj daisies.  I try and never cinch up the daisies on the lead, rather use a fifi.

Place a piece, yard up to my 3rd steps right off the bat, then get as high as possible and fifi in.  For each placement I make 2 moves up the ladders.

I also have taken a BD standard a-tray and cut off the bottom two loops, now I have a floating 3rd tray with 3 steps that matches the ladders for getting high on the steep.

Best thing I have ever done with those ladders.

I have also shock loaded my Yates daisies in the past, but they have held so good to go.....

I like the idea of only one adj on a fifi, but for jugging and lowering out off of hooks and such you can't beat the Yates.

Hoi- That cord seems like a really good idea, no way your gonna break one of those on a daisy fall!  What about a ropeman to adjust from the harness for jugging?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tony Montana! Tell us a story!
« on: June 30, 2010, 07:39:47 pm »
Pitch 5 A2 baby angles (The only pitch we had to leave a pin on) STEEP!

Pitch 6 from below, c2 right facing corner to big cam jugging on an over hanging wall.

Pic from P6 belay looking down at the corner and splitter wide crack.

Hanging out

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tony Montana! Tell us a story!
« on: June 30, 2010, 01:05:42 pm »
I am a little cooked right now! 

This site is the only one that is going to get this info, because Bigwalls is where it belongs.

Steve Bosque and I completed a 13 pitch independent route on Liberty Cap over the past week.

Tentatively called Scarface V 5.8 A3

It was a unbelievable experience, over a 5 day period.  Steve is the absolute best partner I have ever climbed with.  It took everything we had in the arsenal.

I will post up a full TR sometime soon.


Big Wall Forum / Re: Yosemite bigwalls climbed 2010
« on: June 21, 2010, 10:29:20 pm »
Mt Watkins S face has seen at least 2 ascents that I know of.

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