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Messages - *Mucci*

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Big Wall Forum / Re: End of the season!! Trip reports?
« on: May 06, 2015, 11:58:18 am »
Cool, looks like a great ledge!

Big Wall Forum / Re: End of the season!! Trip reports?
« on: May 04, 2015, 10:04:04 pm »
Whats the word on the street?

Bunch of action going on...

Big Wall Forum / Re: Its too quiet here...
« on: March 12, 2015, 12:00:48 pm »
That is Jesus, looking over at a future project on the hourglass wall :-)

Big Wall Forum / Re: Its too quiet here...
« on: March 12, 2015, 11:48:14 am »

Big Wall Forum / Re: Its too quiet here...
« on: March 03, 2015, 11:41:44 am »

I like this site rox.  Most here get out and climb big walls.

No wank, no homophobia, no slandering.

Guess it's not a place for you?

Hope you find a forum that suits yer needs!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Awesome
« on: February 26, 2015, 01:31:30 pm »
Man, not a word on his Aid bobbing, double daisy ropeless climbing to avoid jugging?

Dude really went for it on his first solo.

Big Wall Forum / Awesome
« on: February 24, 2015, 10:53:47 am »

Big Wall Forum / Re: Another noob aid question
« on: February 17, 2015, 04:19:06 pm »
I like to use the grigri and a backup knot.

That is a tricky pitch to clean for sure.

May the gri gri be you're best friend up there.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Atlantic Ocean Wall photos
« on: January 29, 2015, 06:20:39 pm »
Wonder how they got through that section with the totems on the fa?

Fat angles tied off?

Scary looking, even with the totems!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Beyers' latest Vandilism
« on: January 26, 2015, 05:23:19 pm »
Nice skully!

Unfinished biz is a great motivator!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Beyers' latest Vandilism
« on: January 26, 2015, 08:58:10 am »
Wait, why did tommy have ropes over by Native son?  His route went out the wing straight up right?

Did Beyer move over to vandalize?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Crack'n Ups
« on: January 19, 2015, 04:59:51 pm »
I never understood how having a full on blade sticking out of a crack made sense for climbing.

I mean, what were you supposed to do, use one side until it bent and was damaged, then switch to the other side?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Just Quit my Job....
« on: January 13, 2015, 08:43:02 pm »
what about coiler?

smooth seas for you skullbro!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Gri Gri 2 - recall
« on: January 12, 2015, 08:48:34 am »
I had one of the recall ones, 3 or for years ago.

Rapping down some fatty statics I noticed the handle was acting weird.

The recall noted the same defect i noticed, so back to the tried and true #1 OG Gri.

Big Wall Forum / Re: aid noob question
« on: January 11, 2015, 12:20:42 am »

Rope management is your partners problem!  Hahahah

Yates rope bags are sweet.

Big Wall Forum / Re: 3:1 Space hauling
« on: January 11, 2015, 12:18:32 am »
Get a really good rescue pulley, sealed bearing sheeve.

I have 1:1 hauled most loads, but have also 2:1 hauled 500+ lbs with some grunting (something very few will ever experience)

Got to have quality sheeves man!

yeah,  hard to see the 3:1 in your diagram, but either way you are on the right track.

Sharpen up those Beaks Munge, and find something with dirt and 1 bolt belays.

Save the Nose for when we are old!


Big Wall Forum / Re: Tommy and Kevin (the up and down approach)
« on: December 01, 2014, 09:52:55 pm »

I watched the "other/other" Kevin jug 5 ropes in 45 min, wait at the belay smoking cloves till I got there.

Then fire 5.14 Aid climbing with slander assaults from the belay , just to keep him honest.


Big Wall Forum / Re: Tommy and Kevin (the up and down approach)
« on: December 01, 2014, 08:05:35 pm »
In shape= around an hour of warm up.

Siege climbing gets you honed.

Makes sense, bivies take a lot out of you before you know it.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Bags on or around Bulging Puke a few years ago?
« on: December 01, 2014, 11:24:32 am »
Hourglass wall.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Pic of bolting on El Cap
« on: November 21, 2014, 09:04:51 am »
4 or 5 years ago, I was walking the base picking up trash and dropped gear on a cold/stormy day.

I hear drilling, and was pretty shocked as El Cap is kinda beat out for routes.

I come down from the trip side and bam, TC and KJ are on the 1st pitch of the alcove start, out left.

TC is drilling in the same fashion, hanging on a rope, and KJ is in the alcove belay.

Damn near the most awkward thing I have ever seen!  He looked very uncomfortable with the single alpine aider and hand drill.

I walked up and just watched for a while, after 20 or so minutes TC was still drilling.

Pretty sure you could do it ground up on hooks, but the style means less than the end product.

This was before I understood how new free routes get established on Walls.

Aid lead the pitch, TR the variation, then rap down and bolt it.

Much different game, different rules and outcomes. 

Then again, people have problems with rivet and hook ladders that go in ground up, so I guess it is what it is.

This looks heroic to 95% of the people paying attention.  Climbing mags promote it, gym rats aspire to it.

I'm loving the fact that when I bail now, I can solidly point a finger at myself for blame rather than having to deal with the voices in the back of my head blaming other people.

"Are you sure that's a good idea?"  Lol

"I am trying not to kill you"

"We could be drinking beers in under an hour"

The voices are real, and occasionally welcomed.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Ammon & Kait's unseen raw WOS interview (video)
« on: November 05, 2014, 10:58:10 pm »
1,000 people would kill to be here, right here right now.


Cool, brewsky chat.  Man, Ammon is so hardcore, he coaxed his partner through the most nerve racking ascent I can think of.  That was the crux.  Kate is obviously solid.

Well Detrays recent native son ascent is up there too.

How many beers were consumed during that interview?  Hah

Thanks for the clip, and the movie!

Big Wall Forum / End of the season!! Trip reports?
« on: October 30, 2014, 07:00:49 pm »
This is the time when this board should be sounding off.

Did a trundlefest variation to Jericho this fall with Kev and Steve.  Big fun in the dirt and looseness.

Memorable times included:

2 big storms coming in during fixing.
1 Big ass fire that prompted retreat.
Placing a hanger that was stamped "pussy".  It's always a surprise, always demeaning.
1 full on mungefest pitch (worst pitch I have ever been apart of, every body got a turn leading it) With 15 feet of stacked jenga blocks to navigate
1 pitch that took 30 beaks.
Lowering a death block to the belay so we didn't kill Plaidman.
People on the Grack screaming at us to "stop throwing rocks!" After our response, the harassment from the gracksters stopped for the day.
Booty cam was found, except we were the only ones who have climbed was a totem.

So What the hell has been going on?


Big Wall Forum / Re: Risks v Reward
« on: October 10, 2014, 11:17:29 am »
I was involved in a pretty heavy rescue situation with a very good wall partner 4yrs back.

I dislodged a giant desk size boulder that crushed him and pinned him down.  We were in a bad spot, new territory in a 2nd class narrow gully.
He had 4+ hours till extraction, and the short haul was 5 min from being called off due to nightfall.

As I watched the litter spin like a propeller, I thought, he is not going to make it.

He did make it, albeit not fully recovered.

6 months later PTSD hit me really hard, I could not climb 5.5.  I was very depressed and thought about giving up climbing.

Well, I just let it ride out, and everything came back to me.  My partner was very supportive as I was to him, and that helped me move through.  Lot of visits and talks.

It is personal, and sometimes you need a break.  Only YOU know what you need to move forward, but rest assured time heals.

“Saying no is a skill”.

Damn right.

Time and a new found respect for nature changed my views.  The risk is still there, and mitigated by my choices made in the thick of the shitshow.

Good Luck, and Hope your partner heals well!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet Hangers breaking?
« on: September 29, 2014, 04:41:43 pm »
That is a very dumb design.

No loop termination, so you can cinch it to the rivet, but no way you are getting it off.

It looks to be stainless steel cable = much weaker than 7x19 galv cable.

Single strand termination, is probably the worst in that design, the termination will pop right off when loaded.

I will make up some hangers for skot, just got tied up as of late.

Bottom line is you either stop due to one of your hangers catching, or it breaks and you plummet.

I have never had one of mine break in a fall, or my partners falls, and we all weigh at least 180+ lbs.

Hard for me to even consider a failure rate of a rivet hanger I make with the proper gear.  Others buy POS hardware, take falls and break them and pronounce that all cinch's are bad.  Looking at the photo linked above, I can see why we are talking failure.

I have no reservations putting one on a crucial rivet.

edited for clarity.

Oh yeah,  I forgot that coiler has done all of the routes on the spires!

We should ask him how it was.

Pretty sure it is the north face route.

Big Wall Forum / What's Happening?
« on: September 16, 2014, 04:43:18 pm »
Tissack got new hardware.
New route on HCR with one bolt.
Ashes to ashes and tsunami were repeated this spring, wonder if that soloist took down anymore obscurites?
Grape race speed record..

Any other notable ascents?

Got to be some action going on, I need a fix..

Big Wall Forum / Re: smoke in the valley
« on: September 11, 2014, 10:10:53 am »
I am having flashbacks to a smokey bivouac!

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