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Messages - *Mucci*

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331
Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: February 11, 2010, 02:24:05 am »
Yeah, I dig that daisy chain.....Stylin!

332
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: PREMEDITATED part 2 TR
« on: February 08, 2010, 10:27:44 pm »
Whoa munge, I didn't see this video.

Nice work, I like how I was speaking in tongues to the choss.

Pinnacles aid climbing rules.

333
Big Wall Forum / Re: hammer design
« on: February 05, 2010, 12:10:09 am »
I just got a 60's era CMI hammer with the steel shaft off of the Fleabay.  2lbs but it is like the old chounard's, no funky hole.

Man this thing is beefy, anybody (except Skullbro) rock a steel shaft?

Anybody know how much the Moses Hammer is going to weigh?



334
Thanks for the word Mike.  Checking em out right now.


It is a fairly complicated Hitch/KNott butt pays tenfold in it's utility.

335
I have seen the Yates adjustable used, but 2 were used on the big loads. 

What do you use Mike?

I also would like to know where I can get the pulley on the right (the rescue mate) for a price?  Seems as though it would double in a rescue situation which is an added bonus.  Beefy indeed!


336
Nope, first you would tie the end of the haul line off

run it through the hauling device (I like the jumar and BIG pulley),

give yourself a small loop below the hauling device and tie a munter/mule knot with overhand finish to the powerpoint.

Rap, release pig, clean

Now slam a inverted jumar anchored to your system on the tensioned line to the bag

Using the munter/mule lower the weight of the bag onto the jumar

undo the knot, pull the slack through the hauling device/pully and beging to haul.

This knot is choice for pig wrastling.

Easy and when all alone can make landing and launch not seem so bad.


337
A munter mule knot with overhand finish.

When you get back to the belay, lower the bag onto a jug, untie the hitch (backed up with something), engage the hauling device and wham! YOur done.

338
Big Wall Forum / Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« on: February 02, 2010, 09:53:52 am »
Munge-

My good friend Bosque did that one, Said there was some hard nailing on it.  I think it got repeated in the late 80's If I remember correctly.

They said they got really dirty.

Ditto on the Free ratings.

339
Big Wall Forum / Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« on: February 01, 2010, 11:36:54 pm »
I am all for the psych, I in no way mean to downgrade the effort put forth by less experienced teams.  It's one thing to get your chops at the tower on or the column like so many have, but offering "Obscure routes" in that format takes away from the experience of learning the art.

Taking the effort to learn the ropes and search for your style of wall is all part of the game.  Obscure routes are just that.  Those who seek shall find.  It's all on the web, and a few venture out beyond the printed topos.

Let's face it, if you venture out to the forgotten gems, you got a big job ahead of you.  Tons of modern A3 that doesn't get done.

I commend the effort, which will certainly be monumental.

Keep up the good work E,

Mucci

340
Big Wall Forum / Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« on: February 01, 2010, 01:16:55 pm »
The problem I see is that many of the obscure Grade V's are not "Climbable" by most parties.  higher spire routes, panorama cliff, etc...

Old hardware, bad topo's etc...

Last thing you want is newbs not bringing their 1/4 inch nuts, bolt kits heads etc...

If they show up in the Taco book, Oh man!

Outside of that it seems like a novel idea yet some consideration to the areas and routes need to be taken with more than a grain of salt.

Many of the older less repeated routes are for traveled teams.  How many people know how to head these days?  A few friends of mine who have many obscure routes in the valley told me that most (of theirs) will need repair/replacement.

Love without anger... Bad bolts at anchors, bad rivets, and the list goes on.

Good luck.

341
Big Wall Forum / Re: hammer design
« on: January 28, 2010, 11:23:32 pm »
Forrest made a cool blue and black handle fiberglass model in the seventies I think.

Man that thing is beefy, had a good swing to it, not to mention the PING!

342
Big Wall Forum / Re: My Russian Aiders came yesterday
« on: January 27, 2010, 07:38:09 pm »
I see an A2 arrow corner!!!

That musta been big.

343
Big Wall Forum / Re: My Russian Aiders came yesterday
« on: January 27, 2010, 06:53:50 pm »
Thanks for the word on the MAMA!

Whew, all is okay! Maybe this year somebody........ will get up there. 

I take it the little bridge/walk way west of the falls bridge is gonner huh?

Solaris lives!

344
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Afroman 1/10
« on: January 27, 2010, 12:14:05 am »
Very nice report!

This one is on the ticklist for sure. 

Right of the Prow has many gems.

Photos-superb
stoke-very high
AFROMAN-BAD MAMMA JAMMA!



Mucci

345
Big Wall Forum / Re: My Russian Aiders came yesterday
« on: January 26, 2010, 10:53:20 pm »
Man I hope it's not, Very nice looking line.

Be sure to post up when you find out what, where and when.

You may need to set up a "Solaris Rebirth" ascent.  Nice new cracks, ledges, and choss to make your way through.
Peace,

Mucci





346
Big Wall Forum / Re: My Russian Aiders came yesterday
« on: January 26, 2010, 08:46:21 pm »
Strider= Nick?

Glad to hear about you guys finishing up Solaris!  We met at the "Green" on the trip just before your final push.

You guys were stoked that weekend...you know gettin to jug thousands of feet of fixed pain!

Nothing was cooler than when we walked down to the falls from the bivy and saw your light on at your bivy waaaay up the wall.

Nobody around, no light except yours, badass indeed!


Tell timmy I said waz up.

Mucci

347
Big Wall Forum / Re: Monthly Favorite Video Thread
« on: January 18, 2010, 05:53:04 pm »
Man that fall looks like it really hurt.

I just can't get that psyched watching free climbing.  Give me a well edited aid video and out come the beers!


348
Big Wall Forum / Re: Back Rest for your ledge?
« on: January 18, 2010, 05:49:08 pm »
Mike/Skully-

If a deal is not made on the fly I could sure use another.  I have been rockin the BD single on my A5.  Its a bit on the large side so I had to do some rigging to button it down.

Winter Wallin........WHOOOOOOP!

Mucci

Oh and as per OP.  I have used the bd butt seat rigged to the suspension straps.  Just like those folding foam hippie chairs.

349
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: PREMEDITATED part 2 TR
« on: January 12, 2010, 07:24:31 pm »
Big fun up there no doubt, We could not have asked for better photos.



350
Big Wall Forum / Re: El Cap Winter Ascents - Have and have nots
« on: January 12, 2010, 05:27:56 pm »
HOI-

There is a TR on Heavy's second ascent?  I can't remember where it is but it was a good read.

Maybe on the Fish's site?

351
Big Wall Forum / Re: El Cap Winter Ascents - Have and have nots
« on: January 11, 2010, 01:37:36 pm »
Pacemaker
On the waterfront :) Bring the Tools? Or any one of those Klaus routes over there?
Heavy metal + TT
Bermuda dunes
Tempest




352
Big Wall Trip Reports / PREMEDITATED part 2 TR
« on: January 07, 2010, 11:07:37 am »
Well, turns out the crux of this route for me was waiting 2+ weeks to get back to the second pitch.  I had way too much time to think.  I was in the "Mode" when myself and Tyler met up with Munge at the parking lot, a few laughs and we were off to finish this beast!

A helping hand and a med beak eliminated the need to climb the A3 off the belay to set up the tension traverse.  The section we avoided was by far the worst looking rock on the entire route.
A few semi free moves yield a ok red alien placement, followed by a blue alien to get established in the corner proper.



Finally in the corner which was thin, mostly arrows and small cams.

The corner went by smoothly, then I hit the tenuous section. The seam vanished and I began the searching for a good way to get up to the roof.  This required some rubble removal and a hook followed by a expanding placement that kept spitting out gravel and dust.  Whew!

Setting a crumbly hook.


This section up to the roof was very marginal.  Blow it toward the top and your looking at a huge fall potential, with a ledge and corner to navigate around on the way down, PDH mentally.
The roof crack was all arrows driven straight up. 



About the time I was in the middle of the roof, a teenager made his way up to the base.  After Tyler warned him of falling rock he decided to climb up the small buttress to the left of where we were.  Toiling around he found himself contemplating a 20 foot jump down to a grassy terrace which was another 40 feet to the ground!  I warned him, as did Tyler that doing so would be a death wish.  He was having none of it!  I watched him attempt to get in position when I hear from the belay "Hey man, I really don't want to come off this thing to initiate a body recovery, find another way off!"  Or something like that.  I was laughing so hard hanging there under the roof!  Munge was stern and it worked, he found another way off.  All three of us thought this kid was dead, and all due to an effort to impress his hiking buddies.

Now I've got this thing by the throat!  I nail left and can see the belay!  WHOOP!  As I place a very bad small arrow in an expanding flake I know it has a time limit.  I get the daisy ready to clip the bolt, highstep and make the move.  SLACK!!! OH GOD!!!  I watched the arrow explode the rock and shift down a half inch!  "No way Mucci! not on the last placement! One move and you got it in the bag"  I say to myself as I make a half dyno for the bolt hanger.  Clipped in and now this mother is finished!

Munge then set out to clean the pitch, very efficient and yielding Bridwell's hammer for cleaning, he funked out all the pins with ease.  He had a few laughs at the gear, and followed the traverse by clip cleaning and using his grigri.  Very smooth indeed!
Leaving the belay

A Mudbeak Placement

Hitting the traverse

At the belay, very happy to be done with the adventure


So, we had a plan, good beta, and that highly sought after Pinnacles Passion for early repeats.  I would like to thank Brad and DES for the great info and the new bolts at the belay's, those guys had nothing to go on when they did it, which surely made the ascent more spicy. 

Throughout the two trip it took to finish this route, we had birds following us.  First it was the sparrow, when we were racking up, then the swallow by the truck and finally the Condor that wanted a look at me while at the belay.  This huge beast was literally 30 feet away from me.  Floating around he took a b-line for me and I thought he was going to attack me!  Munge saw me scream and curl up at the belay, He got so close I could see his eyes!  Absolutely Beautiful!

Having Jim's hammer with us gave us the psych.  To do this route is one thing, but having the tool of my hero alongside made this ascent go from a dream to a reality.  The Bird was definately with us!

I hope we set the bar high for future recipients of JB's hammer, it's the only way he would want it.

Cheers,

Mucci

A special thanks to Tyler Martin for ground support, suicide watch, and photography.  It's nice to have a 3rd for the pictures.  Not to mention he and munge figured out at the end of the day they had climbed together years ago!  HAHa!

353
Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: January 05, 2010, 12:03:24 am »
Rings of steel?


354
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Premeditated (part 1 - TR)
« on: January 04, 2010, 01:49:40 pm »
Well, turns out the crux of this route for me was waiting 2+ weeks to get back to the second pitch.  I had way too much time to think.  I was in the "Mode" when myself and Tyler met up with Munge at the parking lot, a few laughs and we were off to finish this beast!

A helping hand and a med beak eliminated the need to climb the A3 off the belay to set up the tension traverse.  The section we avoided was by far the worst looking rock on the entire route.
A few semi free moves yield a ok red alien placement, followed by a blue alien to get established in the corner proper.



Finally in the corner which was thin, mostly arrows and small cams.

The corner went by smoothly, then I hit the tenuous section. The seam vanished and I began the searching for a good way to get up to the roof.  This required some rubble removal and a hook followed by a expanding placement that kept spitting out gravel and dust.  Whew!

Setting a crumbly hook.


This section up to the roof was very marginal.  Blow it toward the top and your looking at a huge fall potential, with a ledge and corner to navigate around on the way down, PDH mentally.
The roof crack was all arrows driven straight up.  



About the time I was in the middle of the roof, a teenager made his way up to the base.  After Tyler warned him of falling rock he decided to climb up the small buttress to the left of where we were.  Toiling around he found himself contemplating a 20 foot jump down to a grassy terrace which was another 40 feet to the ground!  I warned him, as did Tyler that doing so would be a death wish.  He was having none of it!  I watched him attempt to get in position when I hear from the belay "Hey man, I really don't want to come off this thing to initiate a body recovery, find another way off!"  Or something like that.  I was laughing so hard hanging there under the roof!  Munge was stern and it worked, he found another way off.  All three of us thought this kid was dead, and all due to an effort to impress his hiking buddies.

Now I've got this thing by the throat!  I nail left and can see the belay!  WHOOP!  As I place a very bad small arrow in an expanding flake I know it has a time limit.  I get the daisy ready to clip the bolt, highstep and make the move.  SLACK!!! OH GOD!!!  I watched the arrow explode the rock and shift down a half inch!  "No way Mucci! not on the last placement! One move and you got it in the bag"  I say to myself as I make a half dyno for the bolt hanger.  Clipped in and now this mother is finished!

Munge then set out to clean the pitch, very efficient and yielding Bridwell's hammer for cleaning, he funked out all the pins with ease.  He had a few laughs at the gear, and followed the traverse by clip cleaning and using his grigri.  Very smooth indeed!
Leaving the belay

A Mudbeak Placement

Hitting the traverse

At the belay, very happy to be done with the adventure


So, we had a plan, good beta, and that highly sought after Pinnacles Passion for early repeats.  I would like to thank Brad and DES for the great info and the new bolts at the belay's, those guys had nothing to go on when they did it, which surely made the ascent more spicy.  

Throughout the two trip it took to finish this route, we had birds following us.  First it was the sparrow, when we were racking up, then the swallow by the truck and finally the Condor that wanted a look at me while at the belay.  This huge beast was literally 30 feet away from me.  Floating around he took a b-line for me and I thought he was going to attack me!  Munge saw me scream and curl up at the belay, He got so close I could see his eyes!  Absolutely Beautiful!

Having Jim's hammer with us gave us the psych.  To do this route is one thing, but having the tool of my hero alongside made this ascent go from a dream to a reality.  The Bird was definately with us!

I hope we set the bar high for future recipients of JB's hammer, it's the only way he would want it.

Cheers,

Mucci

A special thanks to Tyler Martin for ground support, suicide watch, and photography.  It's nice to have a 3rd for the pictures.  Not to mention he and munge figured out at the end of the day they had climbed together years ago!  HAHa!

355
Big Wall Forum / Re: Chock up another, Skully
« on: December 22, 2009, 10:36:59 am »
Happy Birthday Skully!  Hope your doing what you love and having a great time!

Captain you are the man!

Mucci

356
Big Wall Forum / Re: Tomahawks avaible at Mountain Gear now
« on: December 16, 2009, 11:42:45 pm »
I had Klaus make me some heads (short wire) med to large,

prolly good for some of those seams where the rock crumbles a few inches before you get to the good stuff!

Theron- Thanks for all of your work, quality products, real world testing, and a humble approach.

Keep up the good work and put me down for a couple of those hooks, great looking design!

 You are filling a much needed gap in progression market.

Mucci


357
Big Wall Forum / Re: Tomahawks avaible at Mountain Gear now
« on: December 16, 2009, 11:19:07 pm »
Damn Munge!  How did you get a large throw prototype AND Bitchen T?

All of my hooks are making the trip, man good thing I got me some of those HAWKS!!!! WHOOOOOOOP!

It's ON!

358
Big Wall Forum / Re: Leaning Tower
« on: November 08, 2009, 06:24:09 pm »
I have done it both ways, If you don't see anybody around it is pretty cool to take your time on that wall, P7 is a good place to bivy with ledges.

Like Lambone said, fix 1 then go hard the next day, going from the ground to top of 6 in a day is harder than it appears.

Link 1+2, 3+4, it goes pretty quick just clip every 3rd or 5th bolt.


359
Big Wall Forum / Re: Soloing Walls Forum- post here
« on: November 08, 2009, 06:20:17 pm »
I clip the gri through the waist/leg loops like tying in.  This orients the gri tight to the body, then with the keeper/swage loop you attach to the steel ring or the loop of material the steel loop is attached to.  I always have it hooked into the chest harness, free or aid.

You can tie in the chest to the seat harness with some 1" tubular, then run the rope up from the gri, through the steel loop, this will orient a falling body if upside down. 

Of course if you run the rope through the chest harness, it is a pain to undo yourself from the sysem.  A steel quicklink makes things easier, just snip the ring off and attach the link in it's place.

This system will take care of the upside downers, lot smoother catch with the incorporated chest system.

Going free is a very easy transition.

360
Big Wall Forum / Re: Soloing Walls Forum- post here
« on: November 08, 2009, 12:41:09 am »
^^^ Word!

I Modified my Gri, Chopped off the Tab, drilled a hole in that rolled flange on the opposite side of the handle, added a swaged wire with loop (short 1"),

Big ole steel biner, duct tape the gri in the upright position, attach to chest harness with a mini-link.  Bam...easy feed, Stays upright and does not flop around at all.  Usually I use this setup for free climbing, but have soloed with it.  Taken falls, horizontal ones where the swage did not break until I was upright.  I suppose you could drill into the caseing as I have seen, to attach a 3mil cord but the hole in the flange does not diminish the integrity of the device one bit.

This set up works better than anything out there for free climbing IMHO, I pack it all in a small pack, tie a back up and feed the rope over my shoulder.  When you move, the line shoots straight through the gri because the tab is gone.

Oh and any rope will work with the Mod, I have used down to a 9.5 with falls, unlike the SP where you get some serious fuss about older, used ropes.

Or just clove it, that works until around 1200lbs.

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