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Messages - *Mucci*

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Anyone use WC Zero cams?
« on: November 08, 2009, 12:25:22 am »
A couple green ones usually get me out of those sticky situations, terrifying to string a bunch together! 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Early November Yosemite partner
« on: November 05, 2009, 08:48:19 pm »
I am going up on monday, I might be able to swing the Prow.

Maybe I'll hike up and see what the word is?

Don't hold me to it but I am trying to make the prow happen early in  the week.


Big Wall Forum / Re: anybody else have troubles with tools.
« on: November 01, 2009, 12:17:00 pm »
This forum is the one salvation I have for honest information, those who post here have a mutual respect for each other.  Many times issues get heated but there is always a good ending to the topic.

You talked shit on your partner while he dragged you up a classic valley grade V.

I would have left you at the belay and soloed off.

I personally will never respond to another thread that you start.  I recommend the same to others who enjoy the spirit this forum contains.


P.S. People like you are the reason I have to use a camo bivy sack!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: October 27, 2009, 09:39:06 pm »
Name this route-

Big Wall Forum / Re: Skid Lids
« on: October 19, 2009, 05:04:27 pm »
Wear one 97% of the time. 

Petzl ecrios?

Pretty beat up from hitting roofs and falling rock.

Last year in early spring, having fixed a couple ropes down from dinner ledge in a big storm, we went back to finish off Southern Man.

We fixed down where RE- animator starts.  Jugging at night, I was around that roof/chimney area to the left on the 2nd pitch of the REan.

A little dust then BAM!  One softball to the dome!  I swing under the roof and listen to the falling rock.  Swing back out and start juggin again, BAM! BAAAAM!  2 shots to the dome!  At this point I was pissed, the helmet held its own through the barrage.  Get to the anchor and notice an angry Hummock which was the culprit.  The rope ran behind a small tree to which the angry hummock was latched.  All it took was a little bouncing and the air mail was sent.  Needless to say I made it, If I had not had the helmet I would surely have been knocked out.

Helmet are mandatory for me with 3 concussions under my belt, Hockey is brutal.

I really want one of those OP composite helmets (dark green)?

Those look like some good skull caps.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Hole Ethics
« on: October 11, 2009, 11:39:22 pm »

Way to get er Done!


Big Wall Forum / Re: Hole Ethics
« on: October 08, 2009, 11:35:31 pm »
Whoa Jack!

I looked for that thing for while but never found it.  I told chuck and steve I would fill it in, never saw it, so I told em it got patched!  Ha, Oh well Maybe on my next ride with the Queen.

Man you would remember if you did it in Aug of 08', It was over 100 Degrees almost all month.  We took 8 gallons up there and spent two nights on it due to the brutal, all day long sun exposure followed closely by the moon which was full the whole climb!  It never got dark, very strange. 



Big Wall Forum / Re: Hole Ethics
« on: October 08, 2009, 02:00:06 pm »
I thought those 2 rivets were button heads but it was getting dark.  Those guys said they used a few button heads but mostly Z's.

Your right on the ladder, no exciting stretches anymore, same as Southern Man, I wish I could have gotten to those before the work was done.  Yet we don't climb routes for the ladder pitches so it's all the same in the end I guess.

Thanks for the word and I'll let clance and Bosque know to clear the record about the restoration.

Clance said to say hello,



Big Wall Forum / Re: Hole Ethics
« on: October 07, 2009, 10:36:48 pm »
I asked chuck what the original hole count was, No clue.  I wanted to get an idea of what "Original was" before I climbed it.  Were those 2 rivets leading left to the second to last pitch there when you did it? 1/4 buttons.  Bosque, Clance, Altenburg were all about those Zmacs.

Sorry that effort spoiled the trip for you.  I understand your position and I know Clance and Bosque were not very pleased when they heard about the Big steel going in.



Big Wall Forum / Re: Hole Ethics
« on: October 07, 2009, 03:17:46 pm »
Woops, meant to say that when I did the route in 08 there were NO bathook holes.

Mike did you fix those up a few years ago?

A big thanks for returning the Queen to her throne of rivets, she don't need no stinking holes!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Hole Ethics
« on: October 04, 2009, 06:20:23 pm »
Caz, that head on 6 was easily bypassed with a little free as you already know.

The bat hook holes are were not there as of august o8.

Pretty good heads up there.

I tend to replace really bad heads, provided they cannot be bypassed with some hooking.  Bad heads are an issue if you are doing a speed ascent, If your taking your time up there, may as well get rid of those time-bombs.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Name this route...
« on: September 30, 2009, 12:36:54 am »
Right on CAZ!

Wishing you good mojo on your journey!

Big fun is sure to be had!



Big Wall Forum / Re: Name this route...
« on: September 29, 2009, 05:47:07 pm »
Dude , your gonna love the Queenie!

Plus now you have a partner to help with the bag at the evil tree belay!

That thing is not so bad with a buddy pushing it through! HA.

Make sure you get the second to last pitch, Good fun!



OH and Munge-

Try this one on!


Big Wall Forum / Re: Unknown largeness near Indian Creek?
« on: September 29, 2009, 05:42:50 pm »

You should have kept this all to yourself!

Now there are 15 regulars on this site that are gonna see this!

Very nice looking arches, years of new routes on those right there (Get a jeep!)

Big Wall Forum / Re: Butt Bag Thread
« on: September 24, 2009, 09:53:59 pm »
I have the BD Belay seat.  It came with the big BD pig I bought 3 or 4 years ago.  What a deluxe way to travel!

The gear loops are a good way to rack it on the harness.


Big Wall Forum / Re: Soloing with an Edelrid Eddy?
« on: September 13, 2009, 02:52:46 pm »
Check Supertopo, Healyj has written on his eddy setup I think, pretty cool.

Modified Gri works great if you fab the chest harness connection and cut the tab off.  The eddy is smaller though.

Damn, I am glad I read that Hoi !.  Good stuff, looks like a true adventure climb!

You definately had a proper season my friend!


Big Wall Forum / Re: Fall Wal plans???
« on: September 11, 2009, 01:04:09 pm »
Never Never Land.

I thought nobody ever did this one but I was wrong! (Hoipolloi)

How was It?

Not alot of info though I like the unkown.

Sounds like you dug it!

Way psyched!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Anybody Used One of These?
« on: September 09, 2009, 06:59:01 pm »
I wonder if the small size might fit in some of those wandering bolt holes on valley big walls?

I am of the opinion that if you drill it fill it as well. 

Or you could just use a leeper pointed or talon hook to get past those holes.

They actually look worse than a loweball!

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Dunn-Westbay V .10 C3
« on: September 03, 2009, 02:43:11 pm »
Way to go!

that route looks steep!

Very nice!  suffering through a mild summer shower still sucks, good on you guys for finishing up!

Hoi- classic effort my friend!

You always have the psych going 110%,

"About 15 minutes later we see Solo-man charging across the boulder field towards the bear, hurling rocks and yelling at the surprised bear, ?drop my food and get the hell out of here? 

What a show to watch from above!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: September 01, 2009, 03:38:10 pm »
Munge- Did you guys finish the Puke?

How was that 5.8? after the ledge?

I saw some bags and ropes fixed up to the bile duct pitch in 07

Free efforts?

Sapporo Gold?  I can tell by the sound of the carbonation!

They work good for the wyde too huh Munge?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Fall Wal plans???
« on: August 13, 2009, 01:07:04 am »
Caz- I read about your evil tree experience...That thing sucks!

You will be happy with the Queeny's upper pitches! 

Send that thing!

I got thwarted on this summers plans for never never land.  So in late Sept I should be high up on the ladies side.

This will be my first EC route, way psyched!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« on: August 13, 2009, 01:02:14 am »
Caz- Give him a holler!

The seams on the inside are the first to go.  The manufacturer states that if you plan on climbing in them, you need to seam seal all of the seams.
I bet he could still restitch and repair the rands so give it a shot.

Barrys #559.855.4511

Tell him you want the wall toe

Very nice  Mike!

The tower has a certain feel to it not found on any other grade V, The Phantom was a cool perspective as to how soloing demands mental control. 

I have done the west face 3 times and feel that I will surely do it again and again, hopefully solo soon!

Good to hear you made the best of your week!

Best to ya!


Big Wall Forum / Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« on: August 12, 2009, 03:48:36 pm »
Barrys resole's,  I am telling you, for 45 bucks , you get a WALL BOOT that climbs pretty hard.  40 pitches on walls, countless FA's with alot more abuse like major gardening and such, I barely notice the wear!  If you have blown out your Cirques, send them to Barry and ASk for the Wall toe.

You won't be dissapointed, I will post a picture of a pair without the resole and the pair I have that I mentioned above. 

A few friends of mine have had barry do em up and they can't believe the longevity!

As they are purchased, one maybe two walls......Not good enough.

Hope you give him a try, great work by an honest man!


Big Wall Forum / Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« on: August 11, 2009, 12:48:53 am »
I am on my third pair of La Sportiva Cirque Pro's.  I have Barry of Barry's Resoles put "Wall Toes" On em.  this is a 5.5 MM 1/2 sole (smooth like a regular climbing shoe).  Then he puts a heavy duty rand on em.  To finish the makeover he adds seam sealer to all of the stitching.  This last pair has shown no signs of wear after 3 grade V's.  They really shined on Gold Wall, and I can bust some serious edges in those babies!

I also like my old pair of Mega's with the Vibram sole and half shank, kinda like a new wave Robbing Boot (incredible edging)

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Elephant's Perch-Slipstream
« on: August 03, 2009, 08:27:01 pm »
Way to get out there!  Nice TR

Big Wall Forum / Re: Later Realizations
« on: July 27, 2009, 12:54:05 am »
"They were JAZZED! They were sayin' "Wow, that's so cool! Can you show us some stuff?" Really weird scene, for a Valley Rat.
Kinda like you thought it was A5, but it's actually 5.6. So weird"

I am still laughing!

It's always been A3 for me, kinda like your probably gonna walk away from it if you don't fu** up.

Great story!

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