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Messages - *Mucci*

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Dorkalette
« on: July 23, 2009, 12:04:54 am »
Ah "With a twist" is the key, prolly less shock than a normal cordallete if one piece fails.  good stuff!

Sometimes I just use the rope with dog eared figure eight and bights.  Nothin like a fat cord anchor!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Dorkalette
« on: July 22, 2009, 07:46:29 pm »
Very informative.  Having used every type but the alpine, yours seems easy, and well thought out.  What if you are jugging up and left to the anchor and the 2 middle pieces blow, and the two outer pieces remain, is the force still 50/50 or does the orientation of the powerpoint biners play a role in load distribution?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Help Me Pick a Route
« on: June 30, 2009, 06:44:45 pm »
I saw those, how did they rig em?  Pvc and runners?

One big one should suffice,

Munge, what's the word?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Help Me Pick a Route
« on: June 30, 2009, 02:13:36 pm »
Of course it's "for realz", Munge... you know how I like the tropical temps and the lack of fanfare whilst bumbling on walls.

Ha, all those Lobsters I've cooked over the years, there gonna get their payback!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Help Me Pick a Route
« on: June 29, 2009, 11:47:52 pm »

Big Wall Forum / Re: New way to do a adjustable daisy...
« on: June 27, 2009, 11:01:18 pm »
YOUre right on the transition, I have seen some violent pulls to the piece that ended in whips. I guess if it's gonna pop may as well be jiffy pop!

Lets make a plan brother!  I am ready to spread the wings

Big Wall Forum / Re: New way to do a adjustable daisy...
« on: June 27, 2009, 10:46:51 pm »
I meant that on the easy stuff you can yard as hard as you want without blowing the piece, on the hard stuff you try and move onto the piece as if YOU and Myself were 85 lbs when wet.  Thus not adding additional jerkoffing to the body wait piece.

The risk shows up on those tipped out beaks and 2 lobe offset alien placements right?
How have you been Mungy?  Its been a while, cant wait to crack one with ya and shoot the shizzle!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Back Cleaning question for discussion
« on: June 27, 2009, 10:09:58 pm »
I like to rotate 2 or 3 pieces at a time for some redundancy, like a mini anchor all the way.  Leave the bomber stuff and float the rest.  It definately can come back to bite you in the ass.

Big Wall Forum / Re: New way to do a adjustable daisy...
« on: June 27, 2009, 10:07:23 pm »
I just moved to adjustable daisies, took a while to get the system down but if you work on it you can minimize the cluster FU**.  Definately sped my progression up a notch.  AS to a fall, be sure to clip your daisy on the gate side of the biner, if you get to a piece that is iffy, unclip the daisy from the peice your standing on, booyah instant dynamic action via the rope!  saved me a few times and catches like a marshmallow.  

The problem with adj daisies is people tend to yard themselves up on them, not good for moderate to hard aid.  stand up then pull in the slack all in one fluid movement.  AS kate said, her system is not meant to replace technique.

Try it all out and do what you think is best.  A few falls on the tower is a good start, bet you wont make those mistakes agian!

Good luck to you in the future!

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: An epic journey up some of the tower
« on: June 22, 2009, 04:56:35 pm »
Well Caz, you did learn alot of valuable lessons on this trip.  Water, lowering out, smooth progression, Dead head issues, etc.  Sorry to hear about those daisy falls (I took a 3- 4 footer on an alien backcleaning a penji) Hurt bad, aliens are still holding people!

Go back and send that thing!
6 long pitches and your at the top brother!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Broken Back/ tips to ease the Pain?
« on: June 21, 2009, 10:56:52 pm »
thanks Kevin, tried some slings in various sizes (seatbelt webbing) recently, now I think i have an idea of how to rig it in-situ on lead with minimal cluster fu*$.  Seems to help out a ton and doesn't affect my progression, i.e. timing from placement to placement.  Can't wait to see your rig.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: AfroMan!
« on: June 18, 2009, 04:29:40 pm »
Thanks alot, as always!

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: AfroMan!
« on: June 18, 2009, 04:24:59 pm »
where is Afroman located at?  Does it share pitches with another route?  Probably left of astroman no?

Just want to mark it in the book, looks badass

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: AfroMan!
« on: June 18, 2009, 04:09:26 pm »
Nice Tr!  Am I wrong or is the "Afroman"  the same or a variation of "Horney/johnson"?  I talked to troy a few years ago and he said it was a fun route, I just haven't heard of Afroman until this site.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: *wet denam daydream*
« on: June 16, 2009, 03:41:12 pm »
HS- as per that last post...... Your missing the point brother, it's all about having fun.  If you can't hang around and enjoy the most beautifull place on earth while belaying.....then start Soloing! 

How long did it take you to lead your pitches?  Was your partner watching the clock?  Remember.....if your keeping time, your wasting it.

Props to you and your partner for gettin a steep one done!

Man, great TR!  Been thinking of this route lately, Bosque always told me it was "Pretty Steep, lot a hanging around". Looks like a great route, that extra water will help many for sure.

Great job munge, You really wanted that thing, full value on the Cap!

Great story, No beers?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Broken Back/ tips to ease the Pain?
« on: May 25, 2009, 04:55:37 pm »
Got it, gonna give it a try, probably easier staying high that way.  Thanks for everything!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Broken Back/ tips to ease the Pain?
« on: May 25, 2009, 12:45:37 pm »
Mike, thanks for postin up! 

Have you ever used a lower lumbar support brace under the harness? I have two, one with plastic support, one with metal support.  I have thought the metal may cause problems in a fall situation.

I am having trouble picturing the Russian/traditional Hybrid method of progression you spoke of, but am very interested if it reduces the pain of top stepping which you implied... I am 5'8 on a good day in the morning!

I usually wear the  braces on the approach under the waist belt of the pig, works good.

Thanks again boys,

Big Wall Forum / Re: Broken Back/ tips to ease the Pain?
« on: May 25, 2009, 12:34:34 pm »
Kevin, I would like to see one of those butt bags you have been working with.  I currently use a Yates shield, which sucked at first but after I broke it in it felt okay.  I have also used the yates big wall, plush and comfy but it caspered with a partner.  Thinking now I might have Russ sew up a (extra lumbar support) addition to his "Fish harness"  which is the closest thing to the yates big wall I have seen.  Yates doesn't modify to the degree that the fish might, so as soon as I get enough info and spend some time on the paper I will have the harness I need that fits my back.  All the stuff you have posted, has been a great help!  I for damn sure won't let this problem stop me doing what I love!

Thanks again

Big Wall Forum / Re: Broken Back/ tips to ease the Pain?
« on: May 24, 2009, 10:30:42 pm »
Thanks for the tips Kevin, the butt bag sounds good.  Trying to get the fish to sew me up a custom harness, I just have to draw some plans for him.  Never thought about the poles though, sounds like therapy.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: May 24, 2009, 10:26:18 pm »
I Don't mind working with Vegetables, they taste good on the barbie. 

Big Wall Forum / Broken Back/ tips to ease the Pain?
« on: May 23, 2009, 10:10:28 pm »
I have read that a few on this forum have messed up backs.  I have a completely smashed bulging L5, cracked Sacrum S1, and tons of nerve damage.  I have noticed that the only time the old back gives me trouble is body hauling (obviously) and top-steppin when tensioned to the piece.  I just want to know if anyone has anything to offer in the back department.  Harness mods, certain equipment that helps out etc.  Anything will help, so how do you make it happen with back ailments?

- Safety meetings at belays have always been a front runner in pain management, depending on the quality of the Safety Equipment.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: May 23, 2009, 09:47:35 pm »

Expect any less from a Chef?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Your style of wall ascent.....
« on: May 16, 2009, 10:22:18 pm »
A few grade V walls have seen my "Broiler", a mini Hibachi type deal (self contained), cooler on one side/charcoal on the other. I have heard that being down wind during a cooking storm is torture.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Getting ready for the season
« on: May 07, 2009, 04:51:54 pm »
To rig a sling on your thermarest:

Buy a red Petzl plastic pully, Load limit 500lbs $4.95  Where the rope runs is the same thickness as a thermarest.
Cut an X in the appropriate corner of the mat approx. 2"in and 2"down
Trim the edges of the X to create a 3/4 inch hole.
Add the pulley, it lays flush and overlaps the X cut by 1/2 an inch.
Try as you might it's totally bomber, won't rip out.
Bonus pulley as  a back up.

Although you could get the job done with Duct tape this method is clean and usefull.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Aquarian Wall clean
« on: May 06, 2009, 04:14:30 pm »
I was wondering the same thing about Never Never Land, In particular the last few pitches up to Thanksgiving that call for arrows.  I guess we just have to go up and find out.  That has usually worked one way or another.

Yes, they carry a large selection of yates products.
Have fun in the valley!

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: freaky deeky
« on: May 05, 2009, 01:14:08 pm »
Nice Munge, Looks like an adventure!

Still awaiting the 3rd?  HMMMM.........

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Lurking Fear TR
« on: May 05, 2009, 01:09:50 pm »
Nice, good job cleaning it all up and not just stuffing the ledge into the bag and continuing.

Looks like a nice place on the captain.

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