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Messages - *Mucci*

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91
Big Wall Forum / Re: Blue Collar V A3 - Hourglass Wall - Yosemite
« on: May 25, 2014, 03:10:52 pm »
Man, that was big fun.  Pretty athletic pitches.

The "port authority" belay 7 is one of the cooler spots I have been to.

Fully storm proof I bet.

Good thing you were in penji shape Kev!  Hahaa

92
Big Wall Forum / Re: Anybody else forming a plan?
« on: May 21, 2014, 03:33:24 pm »
Sick shots Morris!

93
Big Wall Forum / Re: Kong block roll or 2:1 ratchet or both or what?
« on: April 17, 2014, 01:53:02 pm »
I use the 2:1, the Kong, or a big sheeve pulley depending on the load, and route.

The kong is perfect for heavier guys, and normal wall loads.  Very high end sealed bearing sheeve.

The small guys, well don't have enough behind them so a big sheeve or 2:1 is the way to go.

Quote
The Kong Block Roll is way too heavy for anything, imho.

The Kong is a good product, and obviously somebody broke out the drug scale, and well the kong is not really that heavy.

Have you ever used the kong block roll Mark?  There are WAY more ways to skin a cat than the 2:1

94
Big Wall Forum / Re: Need to get in shape for big wallin.
« on: April 16, 2014, 04:03:49 pm »
My regular (Hardman) partner has on more than one occasion, given up his share of the water, to ensure that the leader is hydrated enough to continue.

These occasions were dire, unexpected, and motivating.

Straight up Harding style, as he was who mentored my partner.

Talk about a beast.

95
Big Wall Forum / Re: Need to get in shape for big wallin.
« on: April 09, 2014, 03:27:23 pm »
I work in a warehouse.

Every day I move thousands of lbs of product by hand.

Lift 60lb boxes over my head stacked 5 high.

I would destroy an alligator.

But I am out of shape, so you want to get "Hudon'ed" and the alligator killer will come naturally  :-)


96
Big Wall Forum / Re: The Big Wall Gear Closet
« on: April 03, 2014, 03:26:10 pm »
Pretty cool idea Mark!

We usually run a swivel-> rigging plate-> 2 full size, side by side.

Then 2-4 sub bags below.  2 off of catchlines and 2 off the main bags.
Been using a fish atom smasher (vintage without storm collar) for all of the hardware.  Not fully enclosed but everything clipped off.

How much are these going for Mark?  Is this your idea or Metolious?

Is it called the gear closet? Is it your idea?

97
I am going to throw you a curveball Dindo...

Forget all of that approach beta.

Hike the trail from awahnee, break up and left where royal arches meets the washington column (called the line of demarcation) very visible.

Follow base to the start of the route.

Less steep, faster, and you find booty along the way.


98
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: "Horns of Jericho" Direct Variation FA TR
« on: March 10, 2014, 12:02:10 pm »
Proud.

We looked at that line, and immediately chose the ramp!

Hahah.

Good on you for testing the mettle through beaks and munge!

99
Very good writeup Kev. 

Funny how it is always a bit different than how you have it planned in your head.

Glad you two had fun!

100
Big Wall Forum / Re: Old Guides route on EC?
« on: February 28, 2014, 04:15:21 pm »
Clint could put something like that together, I believe his Big wall list could be cut up to reflect those numbers vs. years etc.

It seems Yo goes through phases of FA activity, much the same as FA'st do, but on a larger scale.


101
Big Wall Forum / Re: Old Guides route on EC?
« on: February 28, 2014, 03:32:55 pm »
I don't have a copy, and cannot find anything else on the route anywhere.

I have been searching for a way to contact his partner on the route, Giovanni.

Guess I could just message todd gordon, and have him pass a question along to The bird..

It has to be over on the SE face, way right by darkstar, he was keen on that area in the late 90's early 2000's, trying to fill the gaps.

This may be one of the more obscure routes/variations out there.

102
Big Wall Forum / Old Guides route on EC?
« on: February 28, 2014, 11:22:38 am »
2004 Old Guides Variation (VI 5.8 A3), El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA with Jackson Marsten and Giovanni Groaz

Courtesy of the AAJ

Anybody know where this is located?

103
Big Wall Forum / Re: Humping Loads - on your shoulders
« on: February 24, 2014, 11:21:57 am »
Start humping real loads.

This ain't no weenie roast!

Lite duty Mayo bro!

:)

104
Big Wall Forum / Re: Best Speaker setup for wallin?
« on: February 21, 2014, 01:21:37 pm »
I have done most of my walls without tunes.

Don't know why, but hearing the rock and roll of the valley is comforting.


105
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: 2nd ascent, Sierras
« on: February 13, 2014, 01:34:07 pm »
Balloon dome is big, real big, but the entry fee is high on the approach and climb out after the route.

Not many modern big walls there, and not very consistent in difficulty or so I have heard.

You have to rig a tyrolean to get accross the river, which is a logistical nightmare.

Fuller Buttes is high on my list, 6 or more Grade IV/V routes, a few that have repeats.

Didder topped out last autumn on his 3rd? trip up his route "southern yosemite Direct 5.10 A3, they walked into our camp, thrashed but stoked!


106
Big Wall Forum / Re: Bigwall Lending Library
« on: February 12, 2014, 12:23:37 pm »
Dope miller product did something similar.

For a nominal fee you got "packages" That included ledges, bags, heads, etc..

It never seemed to take off, maybe that was due to the lack of marketing or general effort?

I put up my swage work on the site, and would be contacted with orders when they came in.

Not much work came in, even though the prices were very attractive, both on the package options, or just the price of heads etc..


I like the idea, and agree there are some hoops to jump.

Having a local, or semi local hub near YOS would be a good start.

107
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: 2nd ascent, Sierras
« on: February 11, 2014, 01:53:47 pm »
Fuller buttes soyo.

buffalo man, spill the beans, its been years.

108
Big Wall Forum / Re: Crazy Pitches, weird antics?
« on: February 11, 2014, 01:28:49 pm »
Gold wall belly crawl pitch ranks up there too.


What about Crazy for the follower?

I cleaned a PDH pitch that Cobbledik lead, Had to use hooks multiple times to lower out, then flick the hook off, repeat.

Pretty gripped I was.

109
Big Wall Forum / Crazy Pitches, weird antics?
« on: February 07, 2014, 04:21:43 pm »
Let's hear it.

Queen of spades has the rabbit hole on P1. Very Clever.

Any other weird stuff on first pitches, you know where the FA team was boozin and fixing and will have you do all sorts of fucked up shenanigans to get up the pitch in one rope?

Another good one, more recent even:

Climb half of the 200ft pitch, fix off of rivets, lower down and back clean everything, then continue on up to the belay with the rope running straight.

Gotta be some cool/ weird rope tricks out there...


110
Big Wall Forum / Re: Using old Lowe Hummingbird as Aid Hammer
« on: February 04, 2014, 10:09:23 am »
Nice Pieces!

I can say with certainty that using one of those as a piton hammer would suck.  I have tried it with the new version on the right.  I have also used a forrest hammer (fiberglass shaft) and hate it even more.  My wrist has never been the same since drilling with the forrest.

I have about 6 different hammers, and the workhorse is the BD.  Mostly bolting and nailing with it.

If I want a light duty pin hammer for the occasional hammered placement, I would get the kong light model designed by bridwell.

Look on Ebay, you will find all types of hammers there for a price.

I just sold my hummingbird (same as your model on the right) for $50 on ebay.

111
Big Wall Forum / Re: New How-to Bigwall book--need your stories
« on: January 26, 2014, 09:35:44 pm »
Man, on an FA in early OCT our 3 man team brought 20 gallons of water and gatoraid.  That was for 6 full days of baking class at 90+degrees each day. 

Everybody passed out at some point during the route, either on lead, belay, or just trying to slink under the umbrella.

Hard to imagine folks taking more than that, and it was surely not a sufficient amount even with conserving.

Hell, most teams are worried about bringing a 3rd rope for Christ sake.

Water is life.








112
Big Wall Forum / Re: Anybody else forming a plan?
« on: December 17, 2013, 10:30:59 am »
Shadows has a crazy history.  Many suitors as well.


113
Big Wall Forum / Re: Anybody else forming a plan?
« on: December 13, 2013, 12:22:03 pm »
Jesus, well then maybe not!

I guess the battle between loose flakes and gravity came through there.

What about promised land?

Any photos of the area you guys could share?

114
Big Wall Forum / Re: Anybody else forming a plan?
« on: December 12, 2013, 02:54:39 pm »
White room or big chill.

Heard both of those are quality from Troy.

Glad yer racking up skull bro!

115
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Atlantic Ocean Wall photos
« on: November 13, 2013, 11:43:27 am »
Man Mark, what a great photo journal of that route.

nice and efficient.

Thanks for putting it all together for us!

Totems getting plenty of overtime, I am building a double rack of them.

Best thing since camhooks I hear...

116
Mark-

Tagging gear is the most elementary task one could do at a belay.


Can you explain how it is 'far beyond the capabilities of 75% of wall climbers?

I am speaking of course to a standard 2 man team, swapping leads, which is in fact what the OP is practicing. 

If you were referring to tagging while shortfixing, then yes, I would agree.





117
Tagging.

When your partner hits the belay, they immediately start climbing the next pitch, with the gear they cleaned.  You, manage all the ropes, and get the necessary gear your partner will need on the next pitch ready before he hits the belay.

Then you tag him whatever he needs, when he really needs it.

Belays should be fully organized, Bags hauled, ropes stacked, etc all before he gets there.

I always climb with at least 3 ropes, which allows you to tag an entire mega pitch if needed.

Those times you posted are well within the average.

118
What kind of photos are you looking for?


119
Big Wall Forum / Re: Totem Cam Question
« on: October 09, 2013, 11:09:36 pm »
Damn.

120
Big Wall Forum / Re: 3 questions on my 1st topic/post here
« on: October 09, 2013, 11:08:38 pm »
That is the best description of how to set up a ledge I have ever read Mark.

Gonna try the sling in the middle trick, sounds like the ticket.


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