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Messages - hoots

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Big Wall Forum / Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« on: May 28, 2011, 05:02:43 pm »
right on!!!  nasty tendonitis means i have to wait a while before wall season gets going for me, but at least dave is sending hard for all us sinners!  woot!

Big Wall Trip Reports / Patagonia Alpine FAs, Video TR.
« on: April 12, 2011, 08:44:13 am »
So I already posted this thing over at the Taco, but figured I'd spread it around a bit more.  This place is unreal:  huge backcountry big walls, some of which sport some serious objective hazards (imagine a double wide El Cap with a hanging glacier and constant serac fall!)  Kind of like Cochamo, where the cracks look splitter in the binoculars, but upclose reveal bottomed out buttcracks that take tipped out beaks placed in dirt.  But then we moved over into an adjacent valley and got to play on a huge version of the Incredible Hulk, with an insane approach (the Death Slabs with muliple 5.10 pitches...  looong.) I'll let the video speak for itself though.

Expedition: Turbio IV

Big Wall Forum / Re: Lost Arrow this weekend?
« on: April 05, 2011, 11:52:49 pm »
Unless the Government shuts down! 

Big Wall Forum / Re: North Dome Gully
« on: March 30, 2011, 03:41:22 pm »
Caz, sent ya a message.  I could be game for a littlebigwall!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Bigwall bootie! (no, not that kind)
« on: March 29, 2011, 10:45:35 am »
2 cans of chili, 2 cans of pears in heavy syrup, 2 gallons of water, and THREE CANS OF PBR waiting for us at Big Sur Ledge! 

Big Wall Forum / Re: What have you dropped on a big wall?
« on: March 28, 2011, 01:56:25 pm »
Lurking Fear: Pitch 3/4?- Buddy (to remain nameless) drops a good chunk of a double set of HB brassies.  Pledges to replace them.  We climb on.
Pitch 9:  At the bivy in the AM.  My buddy mis-clipped the biner which the poop tube and ledge bag were clipped into.  Not even gonna think about flagging my ledge on that route, and there were two freshies in the tube which no doubt created a huge mess near the base, so we left our bag and rapped down.  Found the ledge bag, and a surprising number of the brassies, and of course, a nasty mess that he got to clean up before the next party showed up and kicked our asses.  He was less than stoked. 

The best story about dropped gear I have is the single rack we found hanging 15 ft up in a tree near the Alcove Slab.  Thought we had scored the jackpot, but turned out it belonged to some Chilean buddies of ours that had dropped it off the 28th pitch of the NOSE!  How it ended up in that tree, that far over I am not sure.  They were pretty happy when we strolled over and laid it down on their table. 

Big Wall Forum / Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« on: March 27, 2011, 08:40:53 pm »
That is some laugh out loud funny shht!  10 days now, hope that snow gets melting!

Big Wall Forum / Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« on: March 15, 2011, 10:35:27 am »
Anybody know if the seasonal raptor closure is back in effect this year?  That includes SS-PO right? 

Big Wall Forum / 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« on: March 13, 2011, 01:10:12 pm »
It's just around the corner!  Rust is being beaten off pins, new hero loops are being tied, and the wall shoes are getting a fresh coating in Plasti-Dip! 

What are folks plans?  Anybody stoked on mid week walls mid April?

Git some!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Please help me get a grant!
« on: December 20, 2010, 09:09:31 am »
Pete can suffer with the rest of em.  Check out this sweet video he made of an attempt on a free line on Cerro Catedral last year in Torres del Paine. 
Los Fabulosos Dos - Cerro Catedral '10


Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Virginia-Advances & Retreats in the Vertical
« on: October 26, 2010, 10:40:30 am »
WOOT!  If you had some fun, it's all good!  And good on ya for being a solid partner. 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Evolv Shoe Sizing
« on: October 13, 2010, 10:34:13 am »
Cool.  I wear an 11 in 5.10 Camp 4s and the like- think I should go higher, like 11.5?

Big Wall Forum / Evolv Shoe Sizing
« on: October 12, 2010, 09:17:41 pm »
I posted this over on the Taco, but I figure it would be good to ask here as well...

Can anybody comment on Evolv's sizing on their approach shoe line that also has experience with 5.10?
I am looking at ordering a pair but don't have the ability to try them on in person anywhere...


Big Wall Forum / Re: How many new portaledges are sold each year?
« on: September 05, 2010, 07:53:32 am »
One less thanks to me!  Snapped my Metolius double putting it away this spring (right at the joint, the metal had weakened where it necks down to the male insert).  Had to bail, fix ropes, borrow a buddy's BD, which are heavy as shit!
Sent it back to Metolius and got it back good as new within 3 weeks.  They rule.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Deep Water
« on: June 12, 2010, 11:40:42 pm »
Yah man, such a good flick!  I was gripped on the edge of my seat. 

Big Wall Forum / Re: wall Shoes
« on: April 13, 2010, 09:48:19 am »
I have had nothing but great experience with the several pairs of 5.10 Camp 4 and Exum Guide boots.  I put in close to 100 wall pitches and hundreds of miles of backcountry hiking on my first pair of Camp 4s before I retired them, and that was from cracking the heel cup out- the sole was still in ok shape!  Guide tennies are in pieces almos out of the box though.  

Big Wall Forum / Re: Got Dates!
« on: April 10, 2010, 01:43:00 pm »
haha, I still gotta work around there, off and on from june til mid september... and who wants to be in the valley during the middle of summer anyway.  backcountry pig wrestlin is in the plans...
and that just means that all you guys can count on a stoked partner being around if you're in need!
as a fledgling member of this cool little sub-community, it would be sweet to organize some sort of beer night mid may when a lot of us are going to be around...  any takers?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Got Dates!
« on: April 09, 2010, 07:28:58 pm »
April 14- mid October.  Who wants to climb? 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Prototype H.W.G. Mace Hammer
« on: April 06, 2010, 09:54:14 pm »
Is Donny the same dude (or maybe you are involved as well Zephyr) who is making those long reach rivet hangers?  A couple of those got passed along to me and I have been super stoked!  The shrink wrapped Cu-heads made me think of them...

Big Wall Forum / Re: Prototype H.W.G. Mace Hammer
« on: April 06, 2010, 07:40:53 pm »
That thing looks rad!  Very nice craftsmanship and cool magnet feature. 

Mark, yer gonna need the 4 lb. sledge for all the iron gettin wailed on up on TR!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Making a Door in your Portaledge Fly
« on: March 31, 2010, 11:39:19 pm »
Yah that looks great Mark!  Really good work isn't cheap though!  I'll get in touch if I can't find someone around here..

Big Wall Forum / Making a Door in your Portaledge Fly
« on: March 31, 2010, 09:14:24 pm »
Has anybody done any aftermarket mods to their ledge flies?  I have a metolius bombshelter ledge and fly, and always wish I had a fly with doors.  Was thinking about taking it to a sailmaker or some other type shop to make the cuts and install waterproof zippers.  Thoughts?  Setting myself up for an expensive disaster?

Big Wall Forum / Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« on: March 31, 2010, 10:48:13 am »
"File seems to be missing"...?

Big Wall Forum / Wall Routes in the Cathedrals
« on: March 29, 2010, 09:14:14 pm »
Has anybody here done a route up on Higher Spire or Rock?  I've been looking at Learning to Crawl, East Face Route, Higher Aspirations.  Gotta be a lot of old 1/4ers up there.  First or second hand info welcome.  Side note, anybody with weekdays free want to climb something in the ditch starting April 12?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Trader Joe's
« on: March 29, 2010, 02:56:58 pm »
Yah, the Modesto one is the best when coming from the Bay.  Go Tjs for Tasty Bites- best wall food ever!

Big Wall Forum / Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« on: March 29, 2010, 02:53:15 pm »
WooHOO!  Keep up the good work Erik!  Up next? Grape Race!

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Afroman 1/10
« on: March 25, 2010, 12:26:56 pm »
Is this thing a seeper in spring (mid May)?  Or would EL be a better bet? 

Big Wall Forum / Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« on: March 21, 2010, 08:00:01 pm »
is it just me, or is anyone else having trouble opening these topos?  they are some unrecognizable pdf format on my comp (mac)...

Big Wall Trip Reports / Tribal Rite Photo TR
« on: May 24, 2009, 06:34:32 pm »
Here you go guys.  Linked up with a photo TR of a BADASS route in a badass spot.  Couldn't muster the cajones to leave the topo on the ground and do the topo-less ascent in the vein of the first 10 ascents, but it was still very adventurous and exciting for us!
Enjoy folks.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Lurking Fear TR
« on: May 03, 2009, 02:19:26 pm »
yah i had a bit of a problem sizing the pics.  they were either HUGE or the size they are now.

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