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Topics - hoots

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Big Wall Trip Reports / Patagonia Alpine FAs, Video TR.
« on: April 12, 2011, 08:44:13 am »
So I already posted this thing over at the Taco, but figured I'd spread it around a bit more.  This place is unreal:  huge backcountry big walls, some of which sport some serious objective hazards (imagine a double wide El Cap with a hanging glacier and constant serac fall!)  Kind of like Cochamo, where the cracks look splitter in the binoculars, but upclose reveal bottomed out buttcracks that take tipped out beaks placed in dirt.  But then we moved over into an adjacent valley and got to play on a huge version of the Incredible Hulk, with an insane approach (the Death Slabs with muliple 5.10 pitches...  looong.) I'll let the video speak for itself though.

Expedition: Turbio IV

Big Wall Forum / 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« on: March 13, 2011, 01:10:12 pm »
It's just around the corner!  Rust is being beaten off pins, new hero loops are being tied, and the wall shoes are getting a fresh coating in Plasti-Dip! 

What are folks plans?  Anybody stoked on mid week walls mid April?

Git some!

Big Wall Forum / Evolv Shoe Sizing
« on: October 12, 2010, 09:17:41 pm »
I posted this over on the Taco, but I figure it would be good to ask here as well...

Can anybody comment on Evolv's sizing on their approach shoe line that also has experience with 5.10?
I am looking at ordering a pair but don't have the ability to try them on in person anywhere...


Big Wall Forum / Making a Door in your Portaledge Fly
« on: March 31, 2010, 09:14:24 pm »
Has anybody done any aftermarket mods to their ledge flies?  I have a metolius bombshelter ledge and fly, and always wish I had a fly with doors.  Was thinking about taking it to a sailmaker or some other type shop to make the cuts and install waterproof zippers.  Thoughts?  Setting myself up for an expensive disaster?

Big Wall Forum / Wall Routes in the Cathedrals
« on: March 29, 2010, 09:14:14 pm »
Has anybody here done a route up on Higher Spire or Rock?  I've been looking at Learning to Crawl, East Face Route, Higher Aspirations.  Gotta be a lot of old 1/4ers up there.  First or second hand info welcome.  Side note, anybody with weekdays free want to climb something in the ditch starting April 12?

Big Wall Trip Reports / Tribal Rite Photo TR
« on: May 24, 2009, 06:34:32 pm »
Here you go guys.  Linked up with a photo TR of a BADASS route in a badass spot.  Couldn't muster the cajones to leave the topo on the ground and do the topo-less ascent in the vein of the first 10 ascents, but it was still very adventurous and exciting for us!
Enjoy folks.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Lurking Fear TR
« on: May 03, 2009, 12:11:03 pm »
This one is a little old, but I saw Munge's request for a LF TR, and figgered I better step outta the shadows, stop LURKING, and actually help the dood out! 

Lurking Fear
aka Fern Gully
aka Seeing a Man about a Horse

Me and Scott met up in early June to redeem ourselves on the Captain after getting spat off the Nose in a storm a couple of weeks prior. In the meantime we had cruised Skull Queen, I had stayed in the Valley and done a bunch of free climbing while Scott went to So-Cal to find a job, and I had also gone through a staff training trip in the Sierra for Outward Bound. With the help of my friends Drew and Mandy, I hiked a bunch of water, my portaledge and gear up to the base of Lurking Fear (VI 5.10 C2+). This was just the carrot I needed to hold in front of Scott! So he drove up, we racked up, and hiked up to the base again with a big load intent on blasting the next day.

While not a total gimme-wall, Lurking Fear is one of the more moderate aid intensive routes on El Cap, so Scott and I planned on 3 days and 2 nights on the wall, taking a relaxed pace, and not fixing any pitches. We blasted in the morning, and got through the bolt intensive first pitches quickly. I led pitch 4 and ended up taking a 25 foot winger after blowing a brassy placement above a section I had just backcleaned. Stupid.
Anyway, we keeping cruising and make it to belay 7 right at dusk, set up the ledge, and rock out to Cypress Hill and the Beavis and Butthead soundtrack on Scott's Ipod/speaker combo. All is well...

Until we wake up in the morning, and Scott drops the haulbag for the ledge, AND the poop tube! Shit! Luckily no one is below when it hits and creates instant bio-hazard. There is nothing for us to do except rap down. The route isn't steep enough for us to flag the ledge without destroying it in one haul. So we tie 30 liters of water to the anchor, and bail, fixing ropes down from pitch 3. Scott cleans the BIO-hazard, and I find the bag.
The next day is a rest day, after which we come back up, without the portaledge, and blast. We take the pitches we already have led and know, and make it to pitch 11's natural ledge bivy (cramped for 2) just after dark. We are moving. The next day finds me leading awesome hooking and free climbing pitches, as well as some nasty junk. I yell to Scott that I propose a new route name: LURKING FERN!

After getting to Thanksgiving Ledge, we decided to just hang out and enjoy ourselves instead of pushing for the top. We drank booty water, watched people top out on the Salathe Headwall, and cranked up the tunes in celebration.

Topped out the next day and ran into Pass the Pitons Pete, who had just began burning 15 days worth of poo bags... Less than optimal odors! It seems that there was a common theme here...
Life back on the ground was full of cold beer and ice cream, until the next plans began to get hatched......

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