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Messages - Splitter

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Free Portaledge
« on: June 22, 2012, 03:36:52 pm »
I'd be into to giving it a makeover and giving it some new life if no one bites



Big Wall Forum / Re: Portaledge Design Discussion
« on: February 17, 2011, 01:30:21 am »
Man.... I suppose I should Chime in here instead of lurk around.....Here were my thoughts when I started this endevor.

When I decided to start playing with different ledge designs, I was torn between what to use. I felt like current ledges on the market were quite overbuilt and lacking some key features. I thought that i could build a ledge that was more taylored to a persons needs, rather than the masses (this whole side gig I am trying to get going all started with a nicopress so I could make some heads for the valley and fix cams around town a little carried away).

The only reason that I went with titanium in the first place was that I got it @ a good price. I figured I could make 3 doubles and 3 singles...A few unique ledges for close to the price of those currently on the market...What I did not figure out until later is that it really hard to sell stuff with out haveing a name or reputation. I felt like with enough time and some of the ideas I had, I would start a business and go from there (you all would laugh if you saw my "shop" it is really small, but it works) I will probabily not make anymore out of titanium as it is really hard to machine and the benifits do not out weigh the price. I think that using CF tube would be worth the price.

  I was thinking like Garbonzo on where could the weight be saved. For my corners I eleminated the eyebolt by drilling through the tube and flaring a piece of 6061 tube...made the straps girth hitch though them (like metolious) and provides easy field repair. Also eliminated the quicklinks and eyebolts....good weight savings. I did use thin urethane for reforcements early on, but it is heavy and ballistic cordura is cheaper. Climbers love duct tape and this works well if wear occurs...lightened the ledge up a bit as well.

For buckles I am not sure wether to go with plastic or the metal cambuckles. The plastic buckles are lighter and cheaper, seem to work just fine on the A5 ledges...going for ultra light right? It was a bitch to find cambuckles that were not made  in china, but I did. I like US made goods but that is another story....
I am working on a single now that breaks into thirds, with the middle section of the length poles being aluminum. I thought that they would hold up better where the straps pull on the frames and adds minimal weight. Also lets me use 2 72" CF tubes and minimal waste.

For the width bars my concern with using CF would be wear and tear. these seem to dangle  and flop around when you are setting up the ledge and I did not want to have the ends get all beat up. I am either going to go with Aluminum and with and internal butted piece of aluminum, and an external butted piece of titanium places on the outside of the CF tube. This would allow the corners to have 2 different alloys and not bind and gull.

Bed fabric, like garbonzo, I felt that the ripstop dyneema was a perfect balence. I havee looked all over hell and back to buy some 500d not in black, but no dice. The dyneema ripstop is plenty burly.

For the ledge size on the few i made i went with 78.5" x 31.5 for my single, and 78.5" x 45 on a double. Shorter frame + stiffer ride and no need for a spreaderbar. I was trying to figure out what is useable vs. wasted space. And no one makes this size anymore. THey fit into BD flys nicely.

I have not worked on a fly as of yet, I have about 1 of each ever made sitting out in my shop to look over with a fine tooth comb. See where improvments could be made.

It has been really fun pplaying around with ledges...Hopefully this will go somkewhere and I can retire from my full time job and do this full time.

I have also found out that the market is way smaller for custom wall equipment..most people want to try wall climbing out, do not want to spend a bunch of money on tricked out ledges and bags, I guess I can keep up with demand for now :)

Sorry for the rant.

Luke Malatesta

PS: Garbonzo....I think it is rad you are building the double...Can't wait to see it!

Johnmac...I think it was called "Tetratek" (the fly material)

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