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Messages - Garbonzo

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Best place to leave a car for WC
« on: September 16, 2015, 10:35:56 pm »
There is something special about taking one last crap in the Awhanee before heading up.

Big Wall Forum / Re: quickdraws?
« on: September 04, 2015, 07:13:09 pm »
20-30 depending on the route.  Bolt ladders and fixed gear chews threw the supply.  I tend to take half alpine draws, half shorties.  Too many alpine drawns turns into a cluster for me.  Fewer long slings are needed when soloing since rope drag is less of an issue, but I can't say I ever adjusted the rack accordingly.

It sucks to come up short and have to consolidate cams to free up biners to use your remaining cams as draws.

another Seann W.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Big Wall Dreams
« on: July 06, 2015, 02:16:20 pm »
Big wall is such a rare pursuit that partners are a major issue.

More than half of my wall partners have been ones that I had never really met before roping up with.  Usually there is at least a beer shared over a topo, but my best partners were all just that and no more before we headed off to the valley.

Partner A:  Knew from a crowd of friends, but we never roped up.  We did a couple pitches to suss things out and went up WFLT OK (other than him being actually a bit scary, like PTSD coming out on the wall scary).

Partner B:  Internet find, had a beer and went up the Prow in good style.  He later broke his leg before the next wall season and we never did a second wall before I moved.

Partner C:  Another internet find, we got baked off of WFLT, but went back in good style.  He then bailed after 3 pitches of Tangerine Trip with bad nerves.  Oh well.

Partner D:  Knew him from the crowd, he really wanted to do Tangerine Trip.  He quit after 4 pitches (his ~10th bail, as I found out later).

Partner E:  Internet find, we've done WFLT, Prow, Tangerine Trip, Mideast Crisis, and Zodiac.  We have more future plans.

Partner F:  Internet find, though he is a friend of my wife's best friend and we met at her wedding without knowing either one of us climbed.  We did a couple walls is good style, but frankly I was not up to his level and we drifted apart.  I hope to someday get in better shape and maybe do something big with him again.

I am probably leaving some folks out.

The point is that there are others in your same position looking for partners.  Also, consider getting a guide for your first outing if you really want to get up there.  It will go really far with potential future partners to have a completed wall under your belt regardless of how you got up it.

It is less the lead, and more the jugging to clean it.  A skinny line rasping away on an edge is scary as hell.  10mm is abput my comfort limit for jugging stuff, but I am rather fat.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Zodiac - flakes off right on the wide pitch
« on: May 18, 2015, 11:43:05 pm »
Yikes!  Why didn't you clip the chicken rivet?  Is it gone?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Excalibur
« on: May 15, 2015, 05:31:31 pm »
The supertopo rack only calls for a single 10" cam, and I am really curious if that works or if that assumes that you can OW your way through section?  Maybe drag along some Big Bros or wood blocks to augment 6" cams?

The trouble with the Canadian Assassin's trip report is that he went up with Tom of Valley Giant fame, so they had more big cams then probably were mandatory.

Big Wall Forum / Re: 3:1 Space hauling
« on: January 09, 2015, 03:24:13 pm »
The problem I see with your system is in resetting.  If looks like you would be pumping your leg and gradually going down as your bag gradually went up.  Once you hit the end of your tether, then what?  You would be facing having to tear down your system so you could jug back up and begin again.

With 1:1 you can haul at most up to about 1.5x your weight by using a second jug to pull up on the bags and pushing hard against the wall with your feet.  Comfort wise about 1x of your body weight is the limit for where I like to haul 1:1, as that is what you can reasonably do with a downward jug and not completely destroy yourself.  The quality or lack of ledge at the anchor makes a big difference.  1:1 hauling on a blank and even slightly overhanging wall is miserable with almost any load.

With the 2:1 ratchet doing over 2x your bodyweight is achievable using a downward jug, but really this system shines at up to roughly 1.5x where you can just sit-snap-stand-reset over and over.  At <1x body weight the 2:1 it is a great option to do leg hauling if the anchor is on a blank overhanging wall.  A 2:1 is also great at <1x body weight if there is room to walk away from the anchor, say hauling from a tree back from the lip a ways where 1:1 can be miserable and awkward.

Frankly beyond that you should probably either do 2 hauls or re-evaluate how much kit you are bringing.  Or just hire porters.  I've heard crazy stories of a 4 man team that had 1 leader, two haulers, and one caboose guy who would cut the bags loose and jug a free line once the bags were free.  It ruined the fun of wall climbing for one of them permanently.  At one point they were strung across 3 pitches and 4 anchors to try to get the leading faster.  Complex clusters should be avoided whenever possible.

Big Wall Forum / Re: aid noob question
« on: January 09, 2015, 03:02:19 pm »
Personally I generally prefer to only pull up enough slack to screw around at the anchor and leave the rest for the follower unless there is a good reason to do otherwise.  It makes sense to have a quick chat before taking off on any pitch so everyone is clear as to the plan, as communications can go south in  a hurry.

If the pitch is low angle it probably better to pull up the slack, same if it is a windy day.
If the pitch is wandering and there is a ton of rope drag then it just slows down an already tired leader who should be getting to work on hauling rather than dragging up armload after miserable armload of rope.
If there are any lower outs near the start it better to leave too much spare rope than not enough.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« on: November 23, 2014, 05:13:04 pm »
Oh dude. Follow up report required.

Turned out OK.  I thought there was still a half eaten freeze dried egg thingy in there, but apparently not.  Most fo the stuff was sealed inside of old water bottles, and the only damage was a bunch of bottle stuck to the bag with dried gatorade drips (I hope it was gatorade anyway  :-o)

Big Wall Forum / Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« on: November 22, 2014, 05:46:38 pm »
Re-use a pee bottle?  No thanks.


Big Wall Forum / Re: Big Wall glove rehab
« on: November 21, 2014, 11:03:17 pm »
Dried fear sweat is nasty stuff.

I am reminded that I never emptied my trash bag from that trip, I wonder what is growing in there...

Big Wall Forum / Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« on: August 29, 2014, 11:26:30 pm »
Prow, Tangerine Trip, Mideast Crisis are all excellent non-nailing routes (bring some heads and minimal iron for missing fixed gear).  Get some of those under your belt and then move on to Zodiac.

NDG is not too bad.  If your load is big, you can ferry your crap down in stages to the rappel, shortly after that you get a proper shaded trail and the heavy load is not so bad.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tahoe area clean aid practice
« on: August 17, 2014, 07:52:34 am »
First pitch of Out the Big Top at the Leap is a good practice pitch.  The second pitch is the horror show.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Kong block roll or 2:1 ratchet or both or what?
« on: April 26, 2014, 11:24:38 pm »
I concur.  It is about the same amount of frigging as it takes to tend to a 1:1.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Kong block roll or 2:1 ratchet or both or what?
« on: April 20, 2014, 02:48:58 pm »
I have both, and I am a convert to the 2:1.  Once the bags get light enough you can even switch to 2:1 leg hauling even.  My goal with hauling is to haul fast enough to not be a big slow down, yet minimize how trashed you get.  Leading will trash you plenty on its own without destroying yourself with freight handling.  Generally speaking I am in wall camping mode, so 3-4 pitches per is all I am after anyway.

Walls are what I do for vacation, not self flagellation.  YMMV.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Need to get in shape for big wallin.
« on: April 14, 2014, 10:27:41 pm »
Another key thing to note is that you really need to have your systems dialed more than being in alligator wrestling shape.  Hanging on your hands while jugging will destroy even the most fit manly-man in just a few pitches (or less), while a competent well dialed fatso can chug along at a modest pace without getting too worked.

Practice your systems, get your hauling dialed, learn to clean an overhanging or traversing pitch without resorting to frigging, and then worry about fitness next.

My $0.02 from an out of shape fatso.

Big Wall Forum / Re: The New Yosemite Bigwall Guide
« on: February 05, 2014, 10:52:34 pm »
4 of the top 6 topics are all for this guidebook, just saying that a new topic was not needed given the other 3 on the front page.  It is harshing the vibe of this site.

Big Wall Forum / Re: The New Yosemite Bigwall Guide
« on: February 04, 2014, 06:36:15 pm »
Please tone down the Spam, it is annoying.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Anybody else forming a plan?
« on: December 26, 2013, 05:23:27 pm »
Starting to get the itch, but no partner for spring yet.  North American Wall is getting close to the top of my list.  It would be a step up in length over Zodiac and the Trip.  Also thinking that a trip up the Great Slab route with a crow bar might  be in order.  Still have to figure out what is going on with my work situation by time Sping rolls around. 

Picked up some X4's and a new to me Haul bag that need to earn their keep...

Big Wall Forum / Re: pissing on the Nose?
« on: April 21, 2013, 04:46:52 pm »
We caught up with a party of three that had come to a crawl.  The leader had been at it for about 3 hours, and we now had 4 at the belay.  The far left dude just had to go, so he lowered down to the ends of his daisies and proceeds to blast his partner thanks to updraft.  Hilarious to watch, but only since counting lichens had gotten boring.

Big Wall Forum / Re: pissing on the Nose?
« on: April 21, 2013, 01:54:19 pm »
Careful with updrafts...

Big Wall Forum / Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« on: April 14, 2013, 05:41:26 pm »
Actually it was two years ago that we bailed on the Zodiac intentions due to it being too wet. So if it's dry enough this year when we go, that could be the Plan A. I'm sure those beautiful sawed-offs will wait patiently for the next time.

Well crap, my brain is gone again.  I somehow forgot about the Prow from last year...  Clearly I need beer stat.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« on: April 14, 2013, 10:30:13 am »
Plasti-dip wore through and I was too lazy to do another round.  I put the extra layer of webbing on all 4 connection points for good measure.  The poor bag only has a few more walls left in it anyway.

Skully, Cobbledik, thanks for the heads up.  Zodiac is top of my list, last year it was pretty nasty and we bailed to the Trip.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« on: April 13, 2013, 10:21:34 pm »
Haul bag is all put back together.  One main 1.5" main straps had abraided 1/3 away.  I melted the edges to stop the fuzzing, then bar tacked some 2" webbing around it as reinforcement and as a rash guard.  Some busted stitched on one shoulder strap also got redone.  I also redid my storm collar.  The budget bag didn't have one, so I added a comically big one ~10 years ago and finally shortened it up to be reasonable.

Aslo tacked in a daisy for keeping everything clipped into (less bag diving), thanks to Olympicmtnboy's browbeating on our last trip.

Now I just need Zodiac to have light enough runoff that it will be a viable option.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« on: April 13, 2013, 08:54:32 am »
Well crap Raaf.  If we are going to bring all that too I better put this donut down and do some weights instead.  Maybe I should switch to bacon. Bacon is low carb, right?  Mmmmm. bacon...

Still amazed how much crap I have despite trying to bring the essentials.

Still have to round up fresh food, water, a few more meals, and some Wag bags...  Otherwise I am packed a few weeks early for once.

Fish bag needs a strap repair too.  The POS needs minor repair after only 10 years and 8 walls...

Big Wall Forum / Re: STOP... Hammertime!
« on: April 09, 2013, 08:34:01 pm »
I have a small hammer, a Cassin POS I got for $15 years back, that is perfect for clean routes just in case a piece of fixed gear is toast.  I also have a D5 and love it, but it is extra dead weight for times when you are planning to go clean, but may just need to replace a head or re-seat an old pin.

Big Wall Forum / Re: TTrip topo (Sloan)
« on: March 18, 2013, 11:14:35 pm »
Other than pitch 5, there just aren't a ton of good classic pitches is the usual complaint.  I enjoyed myself, but it was a big step down compared to Mideast Crisis in wild factor and "natural-ness".

Big Wall Forum / Re: What stopped you?
« on: October 30, 2012, 03:01:31 pm »
#13 Nut on Geronimo RR
Red Alien on East Crack LL

Yellow Alien WFLT
Green Offset HB nut on Mideast Crisis
Yellow Alien on something on Monkey Face at Smith
Orange Alien on WFLT (fell UP on to this one)

I know I'm forgetting a few...

Big Wall Forum / Re: Daisy Chain girth hitching
« on: August 26, 2012, 10:51:26 pm »
I girth mine into the main tie in points, but either way works.  I like being able to cinch my adjustables down so I don't need a fifi for the most part, and that necessitates using the main loops.  Some folks prefer to the belay loop, as it doesn't restrict movement as much.  Beware that if you girth them to the belay loop(s) there is a lot more movement there, so inspect for wear on both the loop and tie-ins often if you go that route.

Big Wall Forum / Re: A question, as well as a WTB...
« on: July 01, 2012, 08:37:53 pm »
Pretty much what Lambone said.

I did WFLT as my first wall, and it was just fine.  I've never done South Face, too much of a circus.  The Prow is another option for a first route.  It is less crowded, but has more heads up aid than stuff like WFLT and South Farce (micro nuts, offsets, some tricky beat out pin scars, etc).  The key to any route is being decently prepared, then not quitting.

Most folks do very little practice and get spanked hard when they show up.  Expect that the crux is hauling and cleaning.  Aiding is slow with minimal practice, but a bad haul setup can toast you after just one pitch.  A bad clean job can leave your arms blasted and your head fried.  With plenty of practice at the home crag you could tackle some pretty serious stuff for your first wall.

Expect the hike up to sap your stoke big time.  It will return, but getting a couple hundred pounds of stuff to the base up switchbacks and talus just sucks, and will sap your mojo.  Expect day of climbing 1 to suck, as it is not until a couple pitches up a route that a rhythm really develops (at least for a loser like me).  You will also feel weak thanks to tired legs from the hike up.  Lots of bails are before the first bivy.  Build extra time into your plans, and plan up the first couple days to be disappointing pain fests.  Setting high hopes just leads to a big smack down, leading to a bail.

Expect to hate your partner too, and just get over it.  They really are trying hard.  They are hauling/leading/cleaning as fast as they can, and you probable are dragging ass just as much and don't realize it.

I climb with adjustables almost exclusively, but I've hardly done anything that wasn't steep.  I barely use a fifi either, I brought it back out on my last trip and found it pleasantly more useful than in my early experience, but still not a must have item for the future.

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