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Messages - xtrmecat

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Anybody else forming a plan?
« on: January 19, 2014, 10:43:26 am »
  Yes, a plan is in the works now as I type this. Just pounded out an hour long e-mail on the very topic. A certain Elcap route just eludes me, several starts and always a big problem. Got a "never been walling" partner under thirty go getter that talked me into doing it with him. Mentored him several years back, and he is perfect for such a mission. Score soon to be settled, or humbled to my very core. Either way, it is what I need.

  Burly Bob

  Munge, I wasn't using two ladders, as I only own two and the other I just got off of, and about to get onto when I find the next placement. I guess what I hear you say is to use two, and flag with the other foot still in ladder? I think this is what gave me more stability in the adjustables. The hooking is very thin, and most of the placements won't hold at all, so some time is needed to find the right little nubbing to make it stick. I think this is why the ladders are kicking my butt. Too much time reaching at my limit, and no stability and trying to use my legs results in pulling the hook off, and killing my knees in the process, or too much time and the balance just cannot be kept due to nothing for the hands to hold my top end from tipping out backwards or sideways.

 Thanks for some thought fuel.

  Cobbledik, I guess the question is what am I missing? I can make these same moves much easier in adjustable stirrups, and have for years. Trying to force new equipment on myself because it has been suggested that it is something that is holding me back. I just cannot get a decent reach from ladders without either going over backwards, or pulling the hook when I apply too much outward force on the ladders. Adjustables do not limit my feet to being within 8 inches horizontally of each other, and it is kicking my rear all over some not too difficult rock. Just looking for tips or pointers that may help me open my world up to harder aid, that's all.

  Three aiders may help, and it was suggested via the Taco I consider Russian aiders. Great stuff here, so simple that I never even saw it before it hit me in the face just now. Splat!

  Burly Bob

Rocky, don't sweat the detail of harming an existing free climb, the rock here is harder than one would think. Also I am going up via a nonexistant line with two of the worst thin crimpfests on either side. Just using the anchors and bolts when I can. The one to the right is the hardest 5.9 around, and on the left, a super thin sharp crimpy 10C.

  Kind of a "do what you gotta do". If you want to put up a line where I am hooking it should go in the 13 or14's, but the qaulity would be crap, and probably never see a second ascent.

   Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Advice needed from gurus, ladders and adjustables. ????
« on: December 19, 2013, 10:43:39 am »
I will try to keep this brief but it will probably be long so I can make it clear, so here goes... I use and have almost always used adjustable aiders and have only found a couple shortcomings with them. In many other discussions I have been told that they are fine until I get into harder terrain. This has been mentioned more than once, so not wanting to be left behind I started my "get into shape workout for next years wall" using only the new Yates ladders. To explain further, we have zip for cracks here so the only good workout I can get is hooking some slighty less than verticle face climbs, and clip the bolts when I can.

  I have done this many times with my adjustables with only some small issues like a traversing move from hook to hook. This is slightly easier with the ladders but I have run into a huge problem withmovement up a ladder when the features run out for hands. I will explain.

  With adjustables I can set the step height to whatever I need as I need it by tugging on the tail as I move up, most of the time I can adjust my daisy about right and stand up hard against it to stand tall and have some balance when finding the next feature to hook. With the ladders I seem to have to stand up too tall or not reach. I am able to sub top step, but only with the tip of my toe in the ladder, as pulling it out to get more foot in just unseats my hook and away I go. Teeing off is easy to do if I do not get too high, but the features only allow this once in a while, and mostly do not. Here is the real problem, the ladder restricts my ability to put a foot out each side for stability when an off balance reach is needed, but with the adjustables this has become intuitive. I tried to flag but it also almost always results in a spill out of the ladder. I tried to bend the knees of both legs accordingly and need to turn the knees out to aquire the needed balance and oh my god did I wreck my knees.

  I quit running a couple years ago as the knees are on the edge of done, and I know I can expect some discomfort, but this is out of control. I rode the bike for two days to loosen them up and after a six hour work out, two days of anti inflamatories and light use they are baked. No way I can do a grade V or VI in this condition.

  Any one see my technique flaw, or have any tips to work "the steep" for a ladder newby? Like I stated, the rock is just under verticle, but the climbs I am looking at in the next season are verticle to overhanging so I must aquire a good technique or just consider my self doomed to adjustable aiders the rest of my life, and limited to their abilities.

  I am going to keep trying to adapt as hard as I can, I just need some tips to figure out the proper use to walk up the steeper stuff without killing my knees, and quite falling over when standing tall on the featureless steep.

  Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Re: Real Nose
« on: November 07, 2012, 05:52:13 am »
Thanks Mark, just what I needed.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Real Nose
« on: November 06, 2012, 05:07:22 pm »
Not so much worried about line location, as much as gear, blow by blow of pitch difficulties, and where they are in relation to each other.

I only think I know what I am getting into. This will help me sink deep enough into denial to believe it will go. Has it only been done twice? Or is it only done by humble folks, that are hard?

So much I do not know of the line.

Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Real Nose
« on: November 06, 2012, 02:52:07 pm »
Any one here have a topo for the " real nose" ? I got a quick look at a crude hand drawn thing on Erics website, and now it doesn't work for me anymore.

I kind of need to see this puppy very soon. I read the  Reids guidebook had it, but I do not even know anyone with a copy. Digitized would be awesome, that way I can drool, and print too.

Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Re: Haulbag to beg, borrow, steal, rent, or buy
« on: April 19, 2012, 05:45:20 am »
  Thanks Munge, I already paid Wmorris for the big piggie, and it should be on it's way. I really needed a bigger bag too. Otherwise I am all about helping someone with a financial tightness, because I do understand it very well.

  Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Re: Haulbag to beg, borrow, steal, rent, or buy
« on: April 14, 2012, 09:39:16 am »
Wmorris, email sent.  All very generous offers, and workable. I figure a grade VI bag wouldn't go to waste, and there never seems to be enough pig room during decents, so this is a winner from where I see it. Mike, I do have an industrial sewing machine to work over the seam and beef it up, It is not a freearm machine, so it would be quite a wrestling match I am sure. Repairing your pig would not shy me away, but making a professional type repair may be a little out of my experience range on the sewing end.

  Thanks to all for the views and responses, if the big piggy doesn't work out, the mad rock is probably a great second bag. I will have to wait and see. Wahoo, first two weeks of June, already reracked with every thing inventoried and checked, Elcap again, tried and true partner, don't really care about weather, great adventure on the near horizon. again, wahooooooooo!

  Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Haulbag to beg, borrow, steal, rent, or buy
« on: April 12, 2012, 08:26:13 am »
  First two weeks of June, probably going to be hot. Partner has no haul bag, and we will need another one just for H2o and extra gear. Already searched ebay, craigslist, with nothing but new pigs out there.

  Anyone have another suggestion, so he doesn't have to buy new for one more wall? Probably be a sub bag to my smallish grade V bag, I never got a huge grade VI and thought I would never need it.

  I would be responsible for it, can pay shipping, leave a deposit, pay for it outright, or whatever. I sold my Fish budget bag this last year, as it was getting worn, and I was a broke student in need of climbing money.

  Any suggestions?

  Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« on: April 11, 2012, 09:27:03 am »
ElCap, first two weeks of June. It is a firm date, wahoooooooo.

  Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Re: (sigh) ready for a stupid question? tie in points
« on: March 03, 2012, 02:47:27 pm »
  Daisies through tie in points for me, and for this reason. I use adjustables, and the clutter is minimal this way. The biggie is this has been the cause of a fatal accident. Research the death of one Todd Skinner. Adjustable daisies need no fifi so that is mute.

  Belay loops are just that, although I have used them occasionally for other things, such as when hauling, and things like backup knotts when solo, or jugging the line. My gri gets clipped in there also when it is my jug backup. I try to maintain that the belay loop is for hard attachments, and anything girthed to my harness is through the tie in points. I cannot think of any exceptions to this that would sway my thinking in any way, but that is just me.

  Burly Bob

  Rather than edit, the above link has photos. Look at the face of Gould. I cannot think of anyone who has ventured up this puppy. Oh and Munge, you are a sick individual. I think that is why I like you.

  Burly Bob

Uhhhh, if huge and chossy is what you seek, I have several hundred in my backyard. If you try to spend your life on the hardest, you will likely die from rockfall. I tried to find a pic online of Siyeh, North Americas highest verticle wall top to bottom. I only can offer this link to help you look around at the surrounding terrain. Several hundred square miles of them.

  Siyeh, the face has been climbed more than once, by a couple of different lines, I know of three locals who have done it. 4200 vericle rise, constant rockfall year round, day in and day out. Not a small feat in any way. Back to my point.

  If you are wanting a chossfest that is very grand in nature, long, difficult, and chocked full of adventure, come see me for a week. I can take you to many a vantage point to scope out the local heaps, almost all only ascended by a very easy route up the easy side. Most have never seen the footprint of of a human at the base, and for good reason. Long hard approaches, grizzly bears, rockfall, short season with hard to forcast weather without constant new data, no cell or radio coverage, and on and on. Alpine skill needed on almost every one of them.

  If it is just to keep the cubicle from wearing you down, it may take me a couple to a few months to get near my home computer, where my stash of pics of Glaciers walls is on the hard drive. If you are seriously looking for a wall you should not do unless mentally ill, look me up and plan a trip for week or six out here. I would be honored to give you a tour. I would even help logistically, but climb, probably not most of them.

  Unless, it was a winter ascent, (turns my crank), and I was diagnosed as terminal with a year to live, then deal me in.

  Burly Bob

  sorry, couldn't make link clickable.

  Well, well, well. What makes you think that any of the rest of us did any better on our first aid day out? I will bite, and try to answer, but I do not have the mileage of many posters and regulars on this forum, but will try my best to be accurate and clear.

-Ascending went alright.  I only own one ascender right now so I rigged up the ascender/grigri system for jugging.  It went alright but it was really punishing on my arms, even though I'm pretty sure I had the length of my daisy correct.  I realized later on that I should probably have been putting both feet in the step on the aider.  Is that correct?  I was just kind of dangling my right foot, which doesn't seem very smart in hindsight.

  There are a few pages written up by cavers on froggy style ascending, and it does make sense to use both legs, not carry one up as an extra 40 pounds of dead weight. Lesson learned. I have a partner that did a larger route with me last spring, and he used your setup,and although not what I think is the optimum system, he was able to follow the last pitches as fast as anyone I have seen, and some were not straight forward either. Can it be done this way? Yes, but it is my thought that two ascenders is way easier. I will say this due to I found that the ascenders and daisy hookups are not there for me to pull myself up on, or lean back on. They are there as my tool for a lettle semblance of balance, and my arms do no climbing, just keeping the ascenders going up the rope is enough work for them. How long can you walk on your arms? or legs? Which is capable of the most work? Kind of see the point? I try to stay in a very upright position, and get a rythym going, that requires the least amount of arms to stay in balance. If I am traversing or overhanging, then naturally this is a mute point, but I hope you can see where I am headed.

-I now understand why soloists will rap the haul line down to the bottom.  I hung my fixed rope with two tails and could have rapped the free end with my spare reverso when I gave up mid-climb but I had neglected to connect it to my harness when I started to climb.  As a result, I got a crash course in down-aiding to get down and retrieve my gear.

  The roofs only present a problem that I can recall, right at the lip. Prior to this, I am free hanging, and the spinning is the crux for me, read bang my head against the lip when ill timed. Getting the jug over the lip on smaller roofs, or at least one that has something I can push off with a foot is no biggie, but a roof tha bears a lot of weight against the rope may require the top jug taken off the line and moved over the lip and re attached, moved up, and then followed with the lower. Once or twice of this and the kinks will be worked out.

What is the right order for connecting to the ascender with the daisy and aider?  I was connecting the daisy slightly less than arm's length with a locker and clipping the oval that had the aider into the locker, sort of the opposite of the order I used when climbing.  Is that right?

  I am not quite sure what point is being addressed here, but if the order of the biners is the question, does it matter? I uaually have my ladder(adjustable stirrupss for me)attached to the ascender, and the daisy( also adjustable unit) clipped into that biner. Neither of mine are lockers, but I also use a locker to tie in short on my slack end of line so I feel I am sufficiently covered from a safety point of view.

-I made it through only about fifteen feet of actual climbing before I was too tired to continue.  It took nearly an hour to go those 15 feet and involved a lot of thrashing and struggling to stay standing as I climbed the aider.  There were lots of holds but it still wasn't enough.  I think the problem is I'm unclear as to where I should be hooking the fifi.  Do I hook it directly into the piece?  I was trying to hook into the daisy but it was darn near impossible to get it one handed while I was desperately clinging to the rock.  I could get it hooked, but not on a high enough loop that it would help me stay standing.

  I may be wrong here, so feel free to correct me. You are trying to connect the fifi to lean back on, right? I no longer use a fifi, and I think I remember that hooking it to daisy issues sometimes due to rack, fat belly, winter clothing and such in the way. Now my sequence goes something like this. I clip the high piece with a daisy, and a draw or free biner that will later be used to protect when I clip the rope, and then my adjustable ladders
are clipped into the daisy biner, I work as high as I can with my feet, not even worrying about the daisy until I am just past it with my waist, then I kind of seat of the pants guess how mush daisy tension to take to reach my next placement and tensin it then, and continue to move my feet up until I am either 1Where I need to be for placing the next piece, or 2 top stepping and coming tight on the daisy. At the highest point I go with my feet, the daisy just serves as the third leg to hold me in to the wall as I reach up and push with my legs. Not ever to sit against, this is just too low of a position for effecient progress.
 There are other methods, and many do not even use a daisy. One of the best places to view this is Ron and Jeffs video of Touchstone and Lodestone, the video is called Clean Walls. Ron steps high on one foot, uses his hand to balance while he slips his unused foot through between his leg and the wall, then pushes with oposing force to hold him into the wall. He calls it Ting off, and I have used it many times, it works. For the most part though, I use the downward pull of the daisy against the upward push of my legs to hold me in check while I fumble in the next piece. It is just what seems fastest to me.
Also the statement of being worked just to stay clinging to the rock, kind of sound to me that you may be stressing a little. We climb to enjoy what we do, and although we rarely enjoy all the busted knuckles and worn through fingers, and the workload can hardly seem to be fun, it seems to me that a lot of energy can be conserved with a relaxed comfortable posture, kind of a zen like thing. I find myself singing or humming to myself, and even crack a smile when on the sharp  end. Relax a little, and make it fun.

-I now understand why soloists will rap the haul line down to the bottom.  I hung my fixed rope with two tails and could have rapped the free end with my spare reverso when I gave up mid-climb but I had neglected to connect it to my harness when I started to climb.  As a result, I got a crash course in down-aiding to get down and retrieve my gear.

  You already had the gri gri as your belay right? Why not just pull it tight and take, and then rap the strand you were already on and clean the piece as you lower by it? Maybe I am misunderstanding, but you were already there, and if nervous about decking when cleaning, should you need both hands for trickery, just throw a knott in the spare strand hanging down to keep you safe?

  Keep at it, it sounds way easier to a climber than it really is. Lots of things do not sequence in real use as we thought it would in our minds. After a few pitches though you will get the little things worked out and it will all come together. Then the work can begin. I have a very long pitch that goes free at a sandbagged 5.9 that took me most of the day the first few times up. An aweful right leaning corner, less than verticle. I hated it the first few times, but it taught me many lessons in looking ahead, balance, what goes where and when, etc., adnauseum. While it may not seem like it, you are through the worst of it, now just need to fine tune what you already have. Then, and only then can you ruin your life like the rest of us here. It is an illness I tell you, a downright ugly disease. And although I will die with it with a smile on my face, I hope I will not die from it. And even if I do, that isn't such a bad way to go, giving 110% to your passion. Happy motoring.

Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Re: Cross post: Limbing at El Cap
« on: June 17, 2011, 09:07:56 am »
I wish to weigh in on this for a couple of reasons. First I find it unacceptable to do what it is that Eric is up to. And second, a;lthough it will damage my reputation in this community, give testimony and first hand experience as to Erics wall ethics and morals.

  Cutting the branches out for a larger trail, is totally uneeded. I have made nearly 25 trips up and down the side of elcap over the last 5 years, and never once did I get so brushed in, or hung up that I consider sawing to be an asset. This includes a couple of laps up the from the Zodiac pullout prior to the nose approach.

  Now the embarassing part of the story. In January, between semesters, I borrowed some aliens, grabbed my entire rack and set off on a solo venture with Zodiac as my goal. I had done the first five pitches as a party of three the previous May, so I knew it was very within my ability, and the rack I had was at least the same, or more. I went to the thinner spot at the top of p! and couldn't get anything to go in the roof, and took a couple pretty good falls, stripping a few pieces each time. Repeated falls on the anchor, which I had built with a cordalette around a couple sharp edges, just started nagging me hard, so I rapped early on day one, with my tail between my legs. The anchor was fine.

  I retooled with my hooks, and every small piece I had the previous morning, thinking I would just worm my way through one more move with a hook jammed in something in an unorthdox manner, or take a pin and tap tap tap a brass nut enough to hold my fat ass for the needed move. I found that I had bent my camhook pretty badly on the fall, and the other camhook that fits got obliterated on P5 of T-trip last year in a fall. Long and short, I failed to get anything to stick or hold, and I hung out for about 8 hours, falling from the same two placements. I could have sworn that 00 Metolious units fit it last year, and I had two of em. I ended up putting in two lightly tapped in pins left of the route, in the roof, equalized them, stepped down onto my best tipped out alien, and hand placed two more place pins and equalized them, and then rapped from the mank pin anchor on my haul line, cleaning the pitch and using the lead gear as a back up to the rapp, which I really did not think would hold shit.

  Upon arrival at the deck, I pulled my rope, leaving a nest of about $100 worth of pins and biners and slingage, packed my stuff, tucked my tail, and came down. Now for the meat of the deal.

  When I got down and hit the road, I bumped into Eric, and we talked for some time about the ordeal, and the conclusion we drew was without camhooks, like three of the larger Moses units, it may not go with the crack maybe tighter in January. Ok acceptable. Then the words that came out next just floored me. I was told I should have just nailed my way across this section, and continued. I stopped the conversation there and tried to let Eric know that I was in way over my head, and obviously above my ability. He then told me that it would be a service to others to nail my way across this section, and if it was to do damage, it would be best to fix the pins and leave them. I found this way out of line, and was invited to stop by the bar for further chit chat.

  Another uninvolved camp 4 resident and I did in fact seek out the warmth of the bar, and Eric did in fact find time to talk further. I was pretty much of the impression that I should nail my way up anything I wish to attempt, and that I would be not only climbing it like a real climber, but doing a service to those that would follow. I found the attitude and ethics so astoundingly out of line, I did nothing other than enjoy my soda until he got busy.

  That is why I think the man is of pretty low standards, and woudl stoop to any level on any subject, and be all smiles while sticking it to the climbing community. It is my opinion that he would limb, log, excavate, chip, drill, with or without power, and not loose a moments rest from it. Draw your own conclusions.

  I would also like to take this opportunity to appologize for the two off route pins I whacked into the roof out left of the route. I saw it as the least of all the evils to get off in one piece. Leaving several pieces (aliens) that did not belong to me seemed more moral, but I cannot afford to replace them, nor can I find them to purchase should I have the money. I camhooked several moves to get up there, and saw no possibility of down aiding a couple of places, I did really look. I am not only sorry, but admission is embarassing. Not only a blow to my ego as to my ability, but commiting a sin when no one was there, and then copping to it way after the fact, kind of chickenshit in my book.

  Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Re: Please help me get a grant!
« on: December 07, 2010, 11:05:14 am »
  There you go Pete. Troll Wall, really. TR mandatory.

  Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Re: Popped my cherry!
« on: November 17, 2010, 08:18:38 am »
  Nice PIE. I was pleased to meet you in May, nice to see the obsesion rules over common sense. So glad you got up the bigger stone. Lots of work, lots of trips, and now you made it. I will forward a link of this to the German, and maybe even the Colombians. They will get a stoke from it too.

  Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: November 03, 2010, 08:04:16 am »
Nice Mark. badass for sure. I just posted this on the taco, so it wouldn't be right to not do it here too.
Man that groove looks thinnish.

  Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Re: Freak Show or Prow
« on: October 04, 2010, 08:48:28 am »
Atta boy.  Don't let no stinkin weather slow you down!

  Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Re: carrying a fully loaded pig sucks!
« on: September 15, 2010, 09:54:29 am »
  I usually carry up the first load with the rack, ropes, and anything else gear wise and heavy, keeping the load managable in weight. Then just buck up and do it, keeping your smile on, it sucks, but it is part of the game. I aquire the water as close to the base as I can to minimize the work. Share it with your partner, you wouldn't want to cheat them out of the same experience, would you?Skully is wise. I also use a pack for the next loads, as well as the other pig should she need to go along. The ledge in the pig, and top loading a rope make it just plain miserable going through brush and low branches, and I would highly recommend avoiding it if possible.

  The crux of last winters wall was just this, a ledge and two top loaded ropes to make it top heavy and hang on every branch, thorny whatever. To make it better, I was totally worked trying to get down before dark and hadn't take a moment to rest for many hours, and hung up on every obstacle for several hours straight. I had issues with my smile, couldn't find it easily, and my vocabulary regressed to a pretty primitive state. Hindsight says two loads, with an extra trip up the approach from hell would have been better.

  Like Mark said, welcome to the suffering that makes this hobby obscenely great.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Summer wall suggestions
« on: July 19, 2010, 10:19:54 am »
  Zac, if you need to get out of town, (just down the page) Mungee has this little tidbit, and if you arrived late in the week, like a thursday, I'd ferry loads for you, and maybe even follow you up, solo of course.


Big Wall Forum / Re: Shipping a Haulbag/Ledge?
« on: July 01, 2010, 03:31:41 pm »
Three times now we have shipped gear directly to the valley Post Office to "General Delivery" with no hassles. ID is all you need to pick up your goodies. You may need to see if your ledge makes it for size, if they have a limit on size that is. I had my wife send an extra haulbag to me in May, and it came with no problems. Just a thought.


Big Wall Forum / Re: Nez Perce Spire (Marvin's Wall)???!!!
« on: July 01, 2010, 03:25:04 pm »
Munge, it is my backyard. Less of a big wall than a huge crag. There is however some stuff that is PDH rated there though. There is one of the guys that did some firsts of a lot of the lines on our cragging crew putting up new lines up here. I am sure he has the lowest of lowdown if you have questions. It is only a 4 hour drive for me, so if you need something looked at closely, I am most certainly your huckleberry.

  All joking aside, I have some of it in a Falcon guide book, I can loan it if you are seriously considering. There is more just north and just south too.


Big Wall Forum / Re: Got Dates!
« on: June 18, 2010, 09:43:11 am »



Big Wall Forum / Re: Got Dates!
« on: June 17, 2010, 10:49:39 am »
  My month of May 6 till June 6th came and went. Oh my god, was that the best time I've had that didn't result in lawyers and probation. Many free days in the rain, and some in snow. I did get on Zodiac as a party of 3 with a whiner that bailed us from 1/3 the way up on day 2. Probably should have offered him the spare softgoods to get down and just continued up. Oh well lesson learned there.

  We did do T-Trip the next weather window that opened up, froze our butts off, and had the time of our lives. Grade 6 virgin no more. Wooooo Hoooooo. I now owe my wife and school my undivided attention until she has had enough of me, to make up for it. That should free me up come Zion winter wall season again. Hmmm. You know that Cosmic egg thingy...........I hear it has a crack.........


Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: June 09, 2010, 02:04:29 pm »
  See, I told ya pigs can fly. Gotta love an overhanging haul, frictionless.


Big Wall Forum / Re: Got Dates!
« on: April 28, 2010, 08:50:24 pm »
Nice Smack, if I am still around, and on the ground, I may drop by to cheer ya on, or hump loads, or....

  I put ya in the BBerry. Good luck, not that it has anything to do with it.


Big Wall Forum / Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« on: April 15, 2010, 11:13:44 am »
  I have some extra time to contribute to this little project. ( note sarcasm, not little at all) I have always been told the best way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time. I also have an idea to pull rivets and dowels. Hand drilled and then a slide hammer. Are any of the dowels aluminum??? If so I can probably do one of those by hand in the time it takes to funk a bad head and fix the mess while following. I would be willing to get a start in my down days next month. It would be nice to have a helper/leader to fix a couple/few pitches.

  Where does the damage start, at the beginning, mid route, where? At the second belay where my topo shows the first bolts? I can contribute labor and time, or serve an apprenticeship for one of the better climbers here, and haul and belay, and do what I can. This offer is not a whim, but something I am serious about. I just don't have too much that I can contribute alone, that's all.


Big Wall Forum / Re: Got Dates!
« on: April 08, 2010, 03:49:24 pm »
Maybe as early as May 3rd, but by the 7th to june 4th. Should be able to wear something out in that time.


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