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Messages - xtrmecat

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31
Big Wall Forum / Re: Hello....
« on: April 05, 2010, 09:03:06 am »
I also like the small campfire here. When asking for beta or making a statement here, I never find a need to wince. Can't say that at the other places.

Especially where nobody's jawing about the good old days when they used to climb. You're only as good as your next outing...

I cannot see why some of these folks talk about the good ol days, days never to be redone, as soooo far from doing again, and they are my age. Don't get that at all.

  Yes, this too. I kind of like it when the information and conversation are based on stuff from at least the same decade we are in. By the way, who has what on the radar in the very near future........

   Like my plans are Yosemite grade VI starting in early May, one maybe two routes, a month to get er done. Groceries bought, gas money in place, rack double checked, partner still in, etc., etc.... 

   Bob


   Bob

32
Big Wall Forum / Re: Portaledge Single or Double, who to buy from?
« on: March 16, 2010, 11:11:58 am »
  I have a Fish double whammy that I use for a super single. I am right at six foot, and it has a little room to move this way. I also have used it several times when I was at 270 lbs as a single, and man is that thing burly. I cannot comment of others as I have only used this one. Fish did deliver when promised also.

  Bob

33
Big Wall Forum / Re: Sewing webbing - tips?
« on: March 08, 2010, 08:31:11 am »
  I would also like to say thank you for this tidbit. I just got my first industrial machine, a Thompson, and any knowledge will save me tons of hard earned lessons. Gonna sew stitches on all my hooks and such, you know to keep the knots from coming loose.

  Bob

34
Big Wall Forum / Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« on: March 04, 2010, 07:34:15 pm »


 no ONE talks about fight club! heh


Oooops. I already dropped the bomb on that tonight over dinner. She didn't say "oh go ahead, you're gonna anyhow". But she didn't exactly throw stuff at me and call me all kinds of names either. That is good. Right? Kind of a permision, no?


   Bob

35
Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: March 04, 2010, 03:57:14 pm »




Nothing like a sunny day.

36
Big Wall Forum / Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« on: March 04, 2010, 03:40:09 pm »
She has seen Zion and other shorter walls, and is OK with their commitment level solo. She has watched me spend hours looking up ElCap, and believes the commitment is too much for someone solo. Kind of a kink in the way she is wired, I think. Sure it is a bigger commitment, and solo is more work big time. But her thinking is I would get out about 4 or 5 days out and run out of water, get weak and fall breaking an ankle, get halfway up and storm in, run out of calories to stay warm, etc. etc.. It just scares the hell outa her.

  It is less a thing of she won't let me go, it is more of I need to respect her, and sometimes doing it her way is best. She is no monster though, and knows a guy has to go when and where he has to go, just letting the fear go is not her forte. I still have two months to get her on board, have a prospective partner for the Trip, and if enough time allows, I am most certainly entertaining a solo for the rest of the time in the valley. Just may need to get creative when I talk about it though.

  Thank god she never looks in these forums, huh?

I really do want to get in WOEML this year. Solo needing some holes would be too big though. Two belays smashed/chopped, along with a few to a dozen protection bolts/rivets, is that correct?

  Bob

37
Big Wall Forum / Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« on: March 04, 2010, 10:58:36 am »
  Thanks for the tip Nanook. Talking about route repair on the next one. Bolt kit and fork already in hand. I would love to stop by in May, if only I knew where.
Dawn it is then. Nobody sleeping at early evening.
  Bob

38
Big Wall Forum / Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« on: February 25, 2010, 04:55:54 pm »
True Mike,

I omitted Cosmos, Excalibur, Heart Route, Pacemaker, Sunkist,ect. because they are themselves quite long and involved, and can be wet in early season.

The biggest factor to remember gang, and this applies to which you route you climb more than which route you do maintenance on, is what you AND your partner are completely psyched for. Big walls are multi-day, challenging commitments and the stoke has to be high. I've hosed myself so many times by picking a route and convincing someone to go along. Sure you can get up the mountain that way, But the memories are brightest when all of your energy is focused on the climb.

best,
e


  Thanks for that tidbit, something I was forgetting when talking with prospective partner yesterday. I now have to rethink objectives, as it might as well be fun as well as work.

   Bob

39
Big Wall Forum / Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« on: February 22, 2010, 09:42:46 am »
Uh hmm. I sent out and e-mail to a potential partner for WOEML in late May. He replied this morning with a "I will be at work in AK in May." so no go.

  I would be willing to help with repair of the route, but I am on a limited time budget. School lets out on May 14, a twenty hour drive should mean I can start fixing on the 16th. I must be back home to attend classes on June 7th though. If the damage is as extensive as I imagine, with some days spent pulling, patching, removing sheared rivets and chopped bolts, and replacing same, I am not sure there is enough time for me to top out.

  My wife saw the wall stoke yesterday, and gave her blessing about it, but not solo. She is still hesitant about me soloing grade VI. I would be willing to serve an aprenticeship for this project, if there is a master willing to go during the time frame. It still remains my target for May, but without a partner, I will be forced to climb something a little further to the east, to shorten the amount of pitches. I do posess a method of extracting sheared rivets by hand, every bit as tedious and slow as chopped bolt replacement, but less destructive. Wilderness legal, too.

  Psst, don't tell my wife that I am planning on soloing something shorter on ElCap. She thinks all my time will be spent at the brothels in Nevada on the way back.


   Bob

 

 

40
Big Wall Forum / Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« on: February 18, 2010, 11:11:46 am »
  Mungee said-"topo drool has ruined my topos.  argh!"

  My wife has banned the topos and topo books from the reading room, for the very reason. The time just goes on by when looking over the "climbing Porn", so now it is just alpinist or "gak" climbing.

  Bob

41
  Too warm and wet to do much quality anything. Climbed a mountaing on skinned up skis. Skied the slush back to the base. Jumped in the lake for a quick dip an a $20.00 bet, and called it a day. Not even hard enough to qualify as a training day. No pics, too wet to even unbag the camera.

  Anyone else?

  Bob

42
Big Wall Forum / Re: let's talk Mescalito and WOEML
« on: February 17, 2010, 10:10:55 am »
Hmmm. You guys convesation got my big stone wheels a screaming, I barely slept last night. I have never gotten up any grade VI route yet. Got out the topos, and stared, wondered, read some more. Ohh does that WOEML look like a grand trip. Jeese you guys got my mind reeling. I am in a remote unwalled chunk of the planet, so solo is how I have to plan. No steady partner.

  And then the whole Kia video, what the _______. Nice job by the way, on both the climb and video. Now the mind is on auto chaotic roam. Gotta do homework, can't focus. Have class on very mathmatical and theoretical AC type theory, must focus. Not happening. Ohh, I gotta go sometime at the end of this semester. Look at all the wide open space, the climbing is hardish, but not too. Ooooh, dang it focus.

  But I need to thank you guys for helping me see the light. The whole quote I just took out of the article you linked to helped put it into perspective It goes"I drilled a lot of bolts, but chopped about an equal number on surrounding routes. Creating hard pitches, destroying pathetic bolt ladders (Early Morning Light)?it seemed to balance out in the end."

  Jeemany, I didn't realize how unholy my thinking was. This guy must be the ultimate in wall gods. I've read other drivel by Jim, but this statement Alone just brings it all in to focus for me. The fact that I have worked hard for quite a few years refining my system, all the sacrafice I have made to get ready for a routes such as this, all the weight lost, miles put in, are all in vain. I had no idea there were men such as this walking among us mortals. Silly me. Either that or I am heading with "exibit A" should I ever be so graced to meet such a god as he.

  Anyhow, enough with the jabber, and yes thank you for maybe lowering my 4.0 this semester a point or two. Thanks for the topic Mungee, and thanks all for your input, you gentlemen are ruining my life. Thanks. I really mean it.

  Bob


  Let's see, 27 pitches, with all the hard stuff at top, when it's too late to chicken out, and only A or C3, hmmmm---

43
Big Wall Forum / Re: The Big Stone in winter
« on: February 08, 2010, 09:12:13 am »
  Nice job Durin. Wish I was there.

    Bob

44
Big Wall Forum / Re: Alpine Wall (and it's close to home!)
« on: January 31, 2010, 10:08:34 am »
JC, that is truly an amazing thing, in an amazing location.

  Just saying, school semester ends just prior. Short drive for me. Not too hot a locale. Used to humping huge unrealistic loads for too far at a stretch. Love once in a lifetime objectives. Just thinking out loud here, I am just an unemployed student sporting gray hair that has a wall habit that seems to be insatiable.

  Thinking, and thinking, and thinking.


  Message may come, maybe not. If I have the time, the least I could do is hump loads. Gas money is only expense, hmmmmmmm.

  Bob

45
Big Wall Forum / Re: The Big Stone in winter
« on: January 13, 2010, 08:20:27 pm »
  Not the "Big Stone", but it got me fixed until spring. Here ya go.

http://www.supertopo.com/Trip-Report/10511/Gentlemans_Agreement_Winter_Wallin

  Enjoy,

     Bob

46
Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: January 13, 2010, 09:34:58 am »


  Last Thursday afternoon. Hauled in part of the kit, and fixed a couple three or so. Thought you'd like to see em.



  Top of three when we blasted on Friday. See the sunshine on the deck. It was pleasant and warm, sunny, but not too hot. Not bad for January, Huh?



  This was supposed to be my lead, and I pawned it off on Cameron. Yes, that is his first piece. Plum over my head, and about 40 foot out there. Not too bad, except the lobes were almost all out on the 5". The 6" was in the anchor I was on. I do recall him saying something about "puking" a couple minutes later too.

   Enjoy

     Bob

47
Big Wall Forum / Re: Beer Cozy with three point suspension?
« on: December 23, 2009, 10:17:51 am »
  Munge, real men do not need the cozy approach according to this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgE8Pcshn9o

  At around 4:30 you can clearly see hands on the can during sports action is the best way to not spill, you can manually adjust the angle at all times, and to enjoy your outing to the utmost. Always trying to make gear do what has already been perfected. Pffft.


    Bob

48
Big Wall Forum / Re: The heat is off...what ya gonna do about it?
« on: November 02, 2009, 06:31:47 pm »
  As far as winter walling goes, I have a month off from just before xmas till later in Jan. Zion treated me real good for over a week in Feb. last year, and someone mentioned a nice little climb down there..... Hmmm, even got enough time for two, if I had a partner, for sure two would go. Hint, hint.


  Bob

49
Big Wall Forum / Re: This, a big walls forum
« on: November 02, 2009, 11:43:24 am »
  I too, enjoy this site because of the lack of clutter. I asked a couple newbish questions (sandstone/Zion) and recieved no criticism, just the info I needed to get it done. Thanks guys. Also I believe the issue at hand is so far from left field I was going to go all RC.noobish and rate him T1, but after watching the spray hit the fan, I would have to upgrade to T2+ or even T3. I personally got none on me, but enjoyed it none the less.

  Bob

50
Big Wall Forum / Re: Soloing Walls Forum- post here
« on: October 29, 2009, 03:02:46 pm »
  I'll field the reason I will never be on a grigri solo. Take the device and put it on the spine of a biner, almost anyones. Now side load it while holding the biner. Walla, the perfect suprise, an easy as heck way to snap off the ears. Tie in is pretty darn important, as it is the only thing between you and the abyss, except the backup.

  As a result, I choose to soloist it, as the tie in is cheap, and mine gets changed out regularly. I'll take a headfirst ride to the backup knott, and I have, anyday over trying to clove the rest of a wall because I almost gave me the chop.

  Bob, and my $0.02

51
Big Wall Forum / Re: Skid Lids
« on: October 19, 2009, 04:29:38 pm »
Yes, what Mungee said. Ammon is so badass, or maybe one to many to the noodle?  And I wear an older petzl pos with no frills. It has probably saved about a dozen or so stitches to butterflies. No real injuries prevented though. One day perhaps, just hope not today. I wear it every pitch.

  Bob

 

52
Big Wall Forum / Re: Zion- how long to dry out in winter temps?
« on: October 07, 2009, 03:52:52 pm »
  Thanks much John. Good info.

  Any others? Anyone wanna get chilly?

    Bob

53
Big Wall Forum / Re: Zion- how long to dry out in winter temps?
« on: October 07, 2009, 11:09:53 am »
  I did not want to start a new thread, but the question I have is closely related. 

  I did in fact get on and complete Touchstone solo last February as a direct result of this thread. Thanks for the info too by the way.

   New question, what is the Dec/Jan weather like. Is it cold enough to keep the sandstone dry, and can I get out during this time frame for another solo route here, or is it too wet then? I have a month off of school starting just prior to X-mas through mid January, and really need to climb something big.

   Criteria is as follows, must be dry if sandstone, some semblance of sane as far as weather goes, Patagoochie is out of the budget anyhow. Must be able to do on a very limited gas budget, last year the whole 1 1/2 week gig went down for around $200 round trip, fuel/food and even a night in a room after. Is there another wall somewhere that could fit the bill. I am pretty open to winter weather being the crux, but do not intend to get avalanched off anything either.

  Suggestions anyone? Wanno go too?


  Not a joke, it will be the birthday present from my wife for my 50th.

  Bob

54
Big Wall Forum / Re: Butt Bag Thread
« on: September 24, 2009, 11:07:54 am »
Munge, I have a BD that has padding, 2 long straps, and four short loops, a soft side and a heavy wear side. It wont pinch sideways on you for the really long hangs when suspended from a single point. Love it to death. I looked for it in the catalog though but it isn't there, so I cannot link. It also may have been a limited production, as I have never seen another like it, ever. Photos if you wish.




The soft side



And the durable/structural side




   Bob

55
Big Wall Forum / Re: Lurking Fear jpg
« on: September 20, 2009, 11:42:36 am »
  Very nice contribution Mungee. Very good stuff.

  Bob

56
Big Wall Forum / Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« on: August 11, 2009, 04:31:04 pm »
  Very harsh Mike. But also very true. Sad isn't it?
  Bob

57
Big Wall Forum / Re: Tricams
« on: May 19, 2009, 09:31:31 am »
  I carry the four smallest sizes, and used em all in Zion this winter. Great tool for the toolbox
in my opinion.
  Bob

58
Big Wall Forum / Re: Your style of wall ascent.....
« on: May 19, 2009, 09:28:10 am »
  All right Skully, I finally voted. And for the record around 6 of the views were mine.
Just a little slower than average, only get up at light or beforebut never lay down early. No
choice for that though. Solo is always slow for me. Careful and cautious makes for long climbs.
   Bob

59
Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: May 14, 2009, 09:53:31 am »
  Here's a lesson is footwear sizing pic.


 


Also Munge, You had a thread somewhere, I forget where, looking for patterns in photos.
I have spent the last year and a half compiling photos of that topic from around the west,
I just cannot find the thread. Do you remember it?
  Bob

60
Big Wall Forum / Re: Head Mod
« on: May 13, 2009, 09:27:06 pm »
  Sorry for the thread drift here. I probably will not put soft goods directly on cables, a lesson learned from none other than Kate.
  If I recall, she took the award for whipper of the year, probably decade too. Some of the distance, according to my memory
of what she said, was directly from hitching rivet hangers to softgoods, screamers if I remember right.
  It's all A-1 till you fall, right? And thanks for the pull data, good stuff to be aware of.
     Bob

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