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Messages - xtrmecat

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Extension rivet hangers
« on: May 13, 2009, 10:55:02 am »
Sweet. That is almost cheating, better get me a few.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Butterknife: Away, deadhead
« on: May 13, 2009, 10:51:53 am »
  Great grinding tip,but a word of caution. Tuck the tails and ends in well, and keep your eye on em.
Catching that in the grinder will put a crimp in your finger dexterity big time. Working harder aid with
just your wrist and elbows will certainly slow a fellow down.

    (Not that I've ever done it, and no, I don't have pics.)

Big Wall Forum / Re: Head Mod
« on: May 13, 2009, 10:41:34 am »
  Kevin, good idea to test em. I have worked in metal fab most of my adult life and there may be more at work here than we realize.
The removed metal may have appeared to serve no purpose, but in fact very well could be strenthening and supporting the swage right next to it.I am willing to bet, that this will in fact reduce the pull threshold of the head. But after all they are body weight plus just a little anyhow. Keep us up on how they do.

Big Wall Forum / Re: omrga pacific lik cams
« on: May 11, 2009, 07:55:34 pm »
  I only own the largest, but after having it awhile now, find it is nice. It makes a great panic piece, but more like the extras of a size i just ran out of. Yes, the range is handy at times. Do not know how the others are breaking at the rivets, mine get inspected regularly and are solid. I would never want to spend this much money for just one piece though(mine was a gift from the wife).
  Solid enough for my big ass to hang on many times. Can not see a reason to dislike them.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rack recommendations for Zodiac
« on: May 03, 2009, 11:37:11 am »
  Didder, It is just a play on words, lighten up, kick back and get ready to ruin your life. The inturdnet is not only fun, but a collosal waste of the same. Go climb something instead.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Pipe right up, Guest
« on: May 03, 2009, 11:32:54 am »
  Just so the guest knows it is OK to post up, being bashfull myself. This is what resulted from the above posts from me. Great Feb. outing.

  Just lurking leads to the harder stuff, so excercise caution.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Show your wall photos
« on: April 25, 2009, 11:46:21 am »
Ok here is touchstone solo from Feb.

And the summit pitches,


Big Wall Forum / Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« on: March 20, 2009, 11:30:12 am »
  I have owned and used up a couple PMI's, 10.5's I think. They are so stiff and hard to manage that it offsets their ability to withstand the wear it will see on a wall. Not even my second choice.
  Now I have a couple Bluewater bicolors, also fat but the main lead line is already showing some wear after about 50 pitches. I have read a few reviews and asked around and my next wall rope will probably be a Yates, as I have heard noone bad mouth it in any way. Ability to withstand edge abuse is a major plus in my book, as I frequently solo, and cannot see my rope at all times, and the piece of mind that would give, jugging, would offset any $$$ difference in my opinion. 70 meters seem like a nice step up for linking also.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Double gear slings
« on: March 17, 2009, 03:04:12 pm »
This is where my hooks ride, to keep them from hanging up on everything that they come into contact with. Also the left side is where my digital point and shoot rides, all the time.

Big Wall Forum / Re: What's everybody been climbing lately
« on: March 03, 2009, 10:09:05 am »
  Did Touchstone solo the weekend before last. Got right in after the snow and got off in the rain, just in time. Great route, great time.

  I didn't take too much time to photo the ordeal, but did take enough time to actually enjoy the heck out of it.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Racking for efficiency
« on: March 03, 2009, 10:00:21 am »
Hey Hoipolloi, you said

"Do you normally tag up hauling supplies (and a rope bag?) like baltoro says he does?  Or do you carry it with you?
(see I was trying to figure out if i wanted to get a fish snake charmer and that started a bunch of 'how to better organize' type questions)"

When solo I take the haul with me up the pitch and set it up in it's entirety, and then with almost all the slack out, if not a traversing pitch, just below the haul unit I tie a alpine butterfly and anchor this to the haul anchor. I then rap to the bottom on the haul line and set the pig a flyin, notice I anchored the top of this taught if not traversing, and leave the slack at the bottom if it does. That gives you an end to lower out the bag with. Then I tie into the near bottom of the dynamic line and Wrap up the snake charmer, clip it to my haul loop, and start up the pitch cleaning.
  Upon arrival at the top anchor I deploy the rope bag and start stacking the ropes, Anchor in of course first. It is very easy in most cases to just lift the pig enough to take it off the alpine butterfly,remove the knot, and set it down on the haul unit, haul away. Hope I explained it well.

 Ps. I used to stack ropes, and use rope hooks, slings, etc, and now with the snake charmer cannot figure out how I lived without it.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Securing the Hual Bag
« on: March 01, 2009, 04:25:34 pm »
Mike, yes, I forgot to include a backup eight in the haul line before I set out to do the other tasks. I just looked at the haul loops on both of my most worn bags and there is no where from the cordage. Yes they are sometimes hard to access, but I usually only need lunch, water, or the obscure article of clothing stashed or taken out.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Securing the Hual Bag
« on: March 01, 2009, 10:57:15 am »
Here's what I do. I've got a loop of 5mm chord through both top pig straps that make a look about four foot long. When the pig arrives at the top of the haul, i already have a docking locker ready. I pull the docking tether through the biner and lift all the slack out, and if on a ledge try to hoist the pig as high as I can easily do so, and then procede to take the tether and tie a muenter, and then dog the loose end of it off and add a biner to this in any manner that it cannot come untied, and this is important. Then I disassemble the haul and am ready for any of the other tasks at hand. When launching the pig I just pull and rack the lockoff biner, and lower the pig with the tether, and if not traversing I tie this tether up with a contractors coil as to not drag it against the bag during the next haul. If it is traversing, I lower off the biner until all the weight is on the overhead haul line, and use the tail of lower out line to let the peig go into space. Simple, cheap, can be used for many pitches before worn through, and all the components can and are used for other things in a pinch, as in the cord make a backup to tat slings left at rap stations, etc..
  I even use this system on my fish pig, that comes with an adjustable docking pig, mostly due to I don't vary from what works well out of habit.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Alien cams
« on: February 05, 2009, 02:43:59 pm »
  Ok, so this made it to the top again I'll just throw my opinion in as to the OP's question. I do not own any aliens, never have, and probably won't in the near future, for the above reasons. They are sworn by others to be the ultimate in many applications, but I have found with a little time on a placement I've been able to make my other junk work so far. I own all breeds of Metolious, 3cu, 4cu, and hybrids, single and double stem. I also own many smaller pieces from other manufacturers and have some pin scar climbing under my belt. The only time I couldn't get anything else to work in a flared out scar pocket was more to do with the piece I really needed was just below the pendi I did to get me to the pendi i was trying to complete, so going back to clean it was not really on the front of my want to do list.
  Short answer is they may be the shizz, I do not deny this, but I seem to be able to live without them just fine and enjoy life. If I did have them, they definately wouldn't be the mainstay of my anchor.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Solo aid tagline...
« on: February 05, 2009, 02:26:40 pm »
  I do not as a rule drag a tag line, just a haul linewhen on solo lead. I do always have one along on anything bigger than a day out though, just to keep the options open. I have never tagged part of the rack, but sure wished I had a couple times. The double gear sling loaded sure is a bitch in the offwidth, etc., etc.. My tag line is also another dynamic lead line should something happen to my primary cord, and stays stowed unless fixing, lowering out the bags, and all the other nice stuff.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: TR: Zodiac Oct 08
« on: February 05, 2009, 10:09:38 am »
Thanks for the TR. I need it to get psyched up. Looks like you had a good trip.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Double gear slings
« on: February 04, 2009, 10:30:38 am »
  Yes, I have the Yates double, and love it. My experience is limited though as I have only owned it for two seasons and some change. I also solo a lot and the soloist needs something to hold it upright and it seems to work great with the Yates. I used a Metolious double prior to this one and I had to use a 8mm prusick carried bandolier style under the chest harness. Yates also took my order over the phone and I explained that I'm rather large, and we measured me while on the phone and he put together what I wanted. Don't find that too often in businesses today.
  If faced with buying another, I believe I would buy the same one. Well padded with fleece shoulders, strong easy buckles, and seems to be durable as all get out. Enough room to carry all the gear for a "big pitch" comfortably.


Big Wall Forum / Re: Guidebook for Zion big walls
« on: January 29, 2009, 03:10:21 pm »
I will up the offer. I just found another book with some Zion stuff in it. It's Eric Bjorstad's Desert Rock. It has some of the nailing routes that the above posted book does not. Around 80 pages on Zion.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Guidebook for Zion big walls
« on: January 28, 2009, 10:51:01 am »
Hey Split, I just purchased the Falcon guide of Utah. It is not very complete, has only clean routes and the plums at that, but I'd be happy to copy off some of the routes in there and mail them to ya. I know it's copyright trouble but why have a map to travel in a book that is over an inch thick. I'm making copys for me anyhow. E-mail me or leave word here and I'll get her done.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Zion- how long to dry out in winter temps?
« on: January 26, 2009, 09:12:15 am »
Thanks for the suggestion Munge. I'll leave this up till you view it then delete is as it is very time dependent and holds no value to the forum.

Big Wall Forum / Zion- how long to dry out in winter temps?
« on: January 25, 2009, 03:27:46 pm »
Help. I was looking at a Zion trip starting midweek next week and the rain won't stop till Tuesday.1-28-09 How long does it take for the sandstone to get good again with the ambient temps in the 40's? Should I bag it for a later date with better weather? Is there enough wind to dry it quickly or does the temp need to be warmer  to dry up the water out of the stone rather than just on the surface. I have zero sandstone experience is why I ask this. I definately don't want to screw up placements on a route by jumping the gun. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Big Wall Forum / Re: sketch or not sketch
« on: December 17, 2008, 10:14:07 am »
Yes, they are legit. I own several pieces made by them and they are not too bad. I'm a big un, and they have quality steel in their hooks, both bat and pika. I wouldn't hesitate buying more of their gear, although Mountain gear seems to have a little better pricing on their stuff when it is on sale.

Big Wall Forum / Re: which ones...
« on: December 15, 2008, 08:31:47 am »
I switched over while I was still learning how to aid and am glad I did. I am on my second set of Metolious but have never used the Yates. I also use the adjustable aiders and find them much faster than a ladder, but I do not have too many pitches using ladders, maybe 50 or less. My laddeers were BD. One note though, a German I met in the valley showed me a small modification he made that makes them a whole lot easier to use. The buckle that slips the tail end up and down the weighted strand needs to be removed. This makes the twists ten times faster to remove and is buttloads faster when getting up high in the stirrups, no tangleing or twisting anymore.
  I have a haul bag that has the Yates style buckle to tether and it is kind of brutal on the webbing. Both kind of buckles need to be unweighted to release, but the Met. seem to be natural once I used them for a few pitches. The aider is also infinately adjustable and not just limited to where the rung height is, small but when there is a bulge I can get over or under it instead of being stusk right at it. Also another plug for the aiders is when jugging, my foot is cinched in the aider stirrup and cannot fall out, and the length of stroke is adjustable in a flash. Just my two cents, but I love mine and now find the daisy/fifi and ladders much harder and slower to use.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Pipe right up, Guest
« on: December 04, 2008, 07:02:01 pm »
Good point Mike. I was thinking dry, as in sandstone. Yea I'm sure the window is there, somewhere on the planet, at any given moment, but I am in a bigger finacial crunch this winter as I got laid off in Sept., and I want to make sure my travels are rewarded with at least a decent shot at getting on something. Suggestions??? Oh yea I have no sandstone experience, just gneiss and granite.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Pipe right up, Guest
« on: December 04, 2008, 10:57:38 am »
OK OK I am also a lurker here and other places. Don't really count though as I post from time to time. Winter walls huh. I may have March off work. HMMM> I wonder what wall is dry enough then?????? Any Ideas?

  Damn it all Munge. I had the previous week all wrapped up in a bad partner, bailed after 4 pitches in 4 days, and left a note on the camp 4 bulletin board and word at the bridge that I was indeed looking for you and ready to send. I was going to leave the new guy alone in camp 4 for a week to let him learn the ropes by himself. Too bad the word did not get to you. Could have been fun, definately easier than humping loads by yourself. Also could have been diferent dealing with the Spanish speakers as I do not speak it and can play dumb pretty good, especially when up a pitch higher.

I'd send and E-mail but the address seems to be hidden. Actually the Nose is where we should be coming off of when you arrive. My e-mail is .
 I will be out hiking today on the East side of Glacier Park but will check the forum and E-mail from time to time when the wife and I return.

Munge, I will be in the valley and should be off of the cap by then. Problem is I am bringing a rope gun to the valley and he has some goals to attain. I cannot climb at his level and I most ceartainly cannot climb at yours yet, but if he finds a partner for his free lines I would love to apprentice something hard. I have gear and willing to work and not go down. Possible?
  What say you? Worth an E-mail or phone call?
  I'm reasonably sure I can jug up to A4.

Big Wall Forum / Re: 2008 goals
« on: February 15, 2008, 02:05:46 pm »
  An A-3+ here in Montana next month pending gear arrival.
  An ElCap something in May(bringing free climbing rope gun this time), along with trying to follow Astroman. Possibly another short wall if I still have it left in me. Snake Dike, and some other cragging in the valley. Try to save some time to hit Zion or City of Rocks on way out. Only have three weeks to get her done.
Edit- cannot forget Lost Arrow Spire as rope gun want to slack it.

Big Wall Forum / Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« on: October 02, 2007, 12:03:46 pm »
holy shit Bob, be careful out there. rope up for the approach if you carry the pig if you have to.

  Mungee, I was on a rope or would no longer be here. It was the last few feet of open ledge just before the routes start. I also do almost all my climbing solo (roped). Soloist's do not lock head first so that makes for fifty exciting feet with only a couple feet out. Backup knots should never be ignored.  I also found me a healthy 20 something rope gun that hasn't had the desire to do a wall worked out of him yet. Will only cost me the expenses and doing the Grand later in the summer. Pretty good trade huh? Incidentaly, Kate is also a role model for me as she seems to type a lot(all good info) and climb even more.

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