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Messages - xtrmecat

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Big Wall Forum / Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« on: September 27, 2007, 10:55:47 am »
  I tried to solo my first big rock in May. Took a 50 footer head first tethered to my haul bag on the approach. Scared me bad enough to sit and contemplate and let my fear run the decision process. Had to drop the bag to get out of the pinch and back the approach up about 3 or 4 hours. A little over my head. Back next year with a rope gun and new attitude with a different route in mind. Liberty cap will wait until some mileage passes beneith my butt.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Placing bolts and rivets
« on: September 21, 2007, 07:26:38 am »
  Pete, A question here. I've never been on any rivets and am hoping to in the spring, but have some 5/16 X 3/4 NC in my bag. If this is no longer the current then I would like to know what a "Rawl Buttonhead" is. I checked the Rawl site and all I can figure is the Split drive anchor is what you are refering to. Is this the one? I cannot find a buttonhead anything made by them. Excuse my ignorance but I do not want to replace missing rivets,(empty holes) with hex cap screws when a split drive is what everyone prefers.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Soloing Belay Device Question
« on: October 27, 2006, 03:08:53 pm »
  I have both a grigri and a soloist and still prefer the soloist. May be that I have used it free climbing for so long that it is what works. Backup, backup, backup, and always backup. Solo kind of adds to the climb in my opinion. Also search supertaco and for grigri mods. Not done on mine but looks pretty simple. Find what works for you, back it up and go for it. Next thing you know is you can trust it more than a partner, doesn't talk back, but is poor company though.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Variation to the infamous cardalette question
« on: October 27, 2006, 02:30:16 pm »
  Most of the stuff I'm on you would need to build trad anchors as there are few bolts or belay anchors so I like to use my cordalettes a lot. The seem to allow me the most as far as options as I rarely know what I have left to build an anchor out of and how spread out it is. Gives me the most bang for the buck, clean, not much cluster, usually good enough for a tank to fall onto, and gives me as large a power point as I might need. I always try for two anchors when hauling, and try never to let a pig interfear with the system I'm on as I do not want to ever have it get away and rip me off. I need to find a very experienced mentor to show me a better way someday though.

  Dude, I get the second two ratings but what is NBD?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Gear organization on the wall- the real "wall" not
« on: October 27, 2006, 02:01:56 pm »
  I tend to agree with The Dude as every pitch is different so I have to change up what I take and what stays. I'm usually solo but when climbing with a partner and mixed up our gear, have just taken some good outdoor metal paint,(yellow) and hit all my pieces with a brush where the ratings are stamped or somewhere not readily subject to wear and then at the end sorting who belongs to what is much easier and no need to count and take a list of all the crap that goes along. Has worked good for several years now.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Adjustable daisies - seem to work great
« on: October 27, 2006, 01:52:12 pm »
  I love my adjustable daisies as well. Kind of fell in love with my adjustable aiders also. I have both and find the regular ladders just too hard to hit steps in the wind and on less than verticle stuff. Pretty sure I'm faster in the adjustables. Anyone else feel the same?

  I have 2 and to keep the chances of factor 2ing I use at the anchor and very shortly there after. All my aid is solo and I'm not in the A-3 world as of yet but will probably carry around 10 scream aids or so then as ledgeing out solo just doesn't seem like a lot of fun. I know some about self rescue but with two hurt ancles or legs it would suck. Seems to me to be the best medicine to prevent becoming buzzard bait.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Harnesses
« on: October 27, 2006, 11:42:14 am »
  Munge. my local shop has em in stock and they have a website if you know what size you want. The website is . They are all good people and almost all, if not all climb. No comercialized gumbies there.Just a thought.

Big Wall Forum / When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« on: October 13, 2006, 05:21:39 pm »
When I solo, and this is most of the time, I usualy make an anchor and tie in. Next I fix my dynamic line to said anchor usualy with 2 lockers to the power point with a figure eight. On the rare occasion,such as Devils Tower, that I arrive at a pitch end there are usually a pair of anchors. I normaly tie a boline on a bite and double fisherman the tail and fix with 2 lockers. Question is there a better knot to use here? My climbing mentor and I both cannot think of anything better but I'd sure like to know what the rest of the world uses.

Big Wall Forum / What's everybody been climbing lately
« on: June 19, 2006, 11:45:10 am »
Devils Tower and the Lost Wall. Tower was excellant!

Big Wall Forum / rope hooks
« on: May 29, 2006, 08:56:21 am »
Well then. Just got back from Devils Tower and now have experience with my rope hooks. Anyone want to buy them? I was doing some aid lines (solo) and had to manage three ropes and my old system is far superior to the hooks and it is also free. The hooks were not very easy to get the rope out of the stack when less than completely verticle. The one on my static line also wouldn't stay cinched and came unhooked frequently. They have their place now, but it isn't on my rack, it is on the floor of my gear room closet. Definately not impressed.

Big Wall Forum / rope hooks
« on: April 13, 2006, 07:36:58 am »
Bought three of them but don't have much multi-pitch close by here. Will get a chance to use them at Devils Tower next month for a week. Hope they eliminate a cluster that can happen at belays. Will keep you updated.

Big Wall Forum / Soloing Walls Forum- post here
« on: April 10, 2006, 03:18:21 pm »
Please reread my first sentence! I do not prussik back up. I carry an emergency prussik cord slung around my neck to keep the soloist upright. Kind of a double use piece of gear. I only back up with a clove on a large locker at my belay loop. Kind of a cluster but 100% effective.

Big Wall Forum / Soloing Walls Forum- post here
« on: April 09, 2006, 04:53:16 pm »
I am currently using a soloist and carry my emergency prussik over my shoulder sling style and use that to clip the top of the soloist to keep it upright. Even then it isn't good for an upside down fall. Want to know if the same is good enough for a grigri as I am getting on bigger and bigger stuff now and I am looking for the best in self belay.
  I am not a noob to solo but am really new to my grigri and only two years of aid. I'm not even sure what mods are done to a grigri to make it better. Just have trouble not crossloading the attachment at the harness sometimes and even with a backup clove it just doesn't seem to feel all warm and fuzzy as most of my big falls have been on aid.
  Anyone want to set me straight with the ultimate solo belay?
   Thanks and happy climbing,

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