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Messages - Baltoro

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Big Wall Forum / Portaledge prep
« on: June 28, 2007, 12:31:30 am »
Same question for the ledge that I just asked for the pig. What things have you done to your ledge that made life great or miserable? I'm using a BD Cliff Cabana for sometimes soloing and sometimes with a partner. Here's what I've done so far:

Shoe Gooed all the seams on ledge and haul sack
Seam sealed the crap out of the fly
Added a "Bigwall" sponge for fly condensation
Added a 8' section of 8mm that comes from the ledge powerpoint to my tie in point


Big Wall Forum / Haul Bag Prep
« on: June 28, 2007, 12:24:11 am »
I'm looking for input into what others have done to prep or setup their precious piggies for walls. Here's what I've got set up so far:

Wear prevention:
Shoe Gooed all the seams, inside and out
Shoe Gooed the stitching on the haul straps

Standard closed cell foam lining the walls and cardboard bottom (with hole for some drainage) for added structure
Daisy chain girthed to inside grab loop for keeping items clipped in while shuffling through the bag
Mini LED light on cord near top for shuffling through the bag (this has allowed me to sort through bags inside the bag, thus reducing the chance of me dropping something. You just put the light in your mouth and start digging. I should also mention this is a Metolius El Cap, so it's pretty freaking deep and anything sitting on top of the water bottles is a ways down there and the light has been handy.

Small water knotted sling (1.5") connecting the long strap to a BD Rotor (This just seemed like a good opportunity to eliminate a biner while maintaing some redundancy
Large Pear biner connecting short strap to BD Rotor

8' or so 8mm cord for docking with designated pear biner for Munter Mule

Safety lines:
7mm line going from long strap to bottom haul loop as back up for ledge and poop tube clip in point

The haul line remainder will be the lower out line and there's two lockers that will go on top of the BD Rotor and connect to the haul line once slack is removed

So, what recs do you folks have or what has most definitely not worked well for you in the past?

Big Wall Forum / Re: 3 to 1 (quickest way to set up?)
« on: June 28, 2007, 12:10:13 am »
Check for Pete's version of Chongo's hauling ratchet. Search for "hauling ratchet" or 2:1 and you should come up with something. It's a nifty pre-rigged setup that allows for easy setup for burly hauls. Lots of people would certainly argue to just bring less stuff or do two seperate hauls and they wouldn't be wrong, just different. It seems like it would be most useful at the start of a wall, when the bags are heaviest, particularly if you're soloing and slow or with partners and still slow. After the first day or two it might not be needed unless your Pete or petite.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Hanging Stoves
« on: April 02, 2007, 09:46:42 am »
JetBoil will soon release a hanging stove kit to go along with its existing stove. It's pretty straightforward, doesn't require any modification and adds barely any weight to an already pretty light stove. Also, the JetBoil is a little more fuel efficient than some other stoves (though not faster like often hyped) so you might not have to bring as much fuel. Plus they have a coffee press kit so you don't have to have a seperate kit for that. You can see pics of the kit from someone's TR on from the OR show. Enjoy.

Big Wall Forum / Re: adjustable daisy buckles
« on: March 29, 2007, 09:46:07 am »
They seem pretty similiar to me. There may be a difference in how aggressive the teeth are and how much cleanrance there is when you have the cam open. The teeth can have a dramatic effect on durability and the cam clearance or lack there of will be very evident when you get teh webbing folded over in the cam due to twisting. They Yates do this sometimes (through no fault of the daisy) and it's pretty easy to get a doubled up section freed, but I could see this being a huge pain if your webbing and buckle aren't proportionally sized. Also, the release button on the buckle should be somewhwat protected so that it won't easily get pressed up against the rock, particularly in corners. This would make for a very eye opening experience. Have fun with it though and cool that you're  making use of what you have. That's what aid climbing is all about. Enjoy!

Big Wall Forum / Re: aid tricks/tips/techniques
« on: March 23, 2007, 08:34:12 pm »
I too have found that top stepping is usually not worth the effort. If the situation demands it though, knowing how to do it and do it with minimal effort or futzing is crucial. Get comfortable doing it, maybe practicing on solo toprope, so that when you do have to bust it out you are comfortable with the methods. Other than that, I tend to live in the second steps more often than not.

Try the TR practice with the cam hooks as well. They do much more damage to the rock though and are taboo in some soft rock areas like Zion. These can quickly become your best friends though on granite, particularly with pin scars. Having Offset Aliens and C3s is nice but there are plenty of placements that a cam hook is still ideal.

Hooking in general is something good to get comfortable with. It seems that more and more climbs are going clean (read:less damage to the rock) and some of this seems to be people pushing the limits a little more with hooks. I have no A4+/C4+ aspirations but I have used 3 consecutive hooks in a row over a dubious nut because they were the best gear options and each one was pretty bomber. Other gear might not have been so nice. I also made a crappy small cam placement work because I was too chicken $hit to use a cam hook for the second move off the belay right over a ledge. Why? The cam hook would probably have been a much better placement but I wasn't fully comfortable with them and thus went with gear that was actually more likely to have my belayer's head up my ass.

Don't knock yourself for taking a look at the piece you're already on as many a whipper has been avoided by quickly getting something else in when somebody realized the gear they were on was a timebomb about to blow. Looking at the placement to come from the lower steps usually doesn't reveal too much but it can give you a quick idea of what to expect so you're more prepared when you get to it, particularly if it requires a stressful position to get to. The less time you spend in uncomfortable positions, both mentally and physically, the better. If you're heading up a straightforward crack though, searching for the anchor rarely makes it get any closer, whereas getting your ass moving usually does. I try and get into the third step and take a look, maybe getting my piece handy and then pop up, place it, get back down to test and go! I try and give myself a set number of solid tests, depending upon the piece. If it holds that, regardless of how shitty I think it might be, I try and move on it without dwelling on it too much. Remember, the less time you spend physically or mentally stressed, the better. Besides, you can show off your ripped Screamers to all your sporto friends after you take the big fall.

I'm in the Seattle area and Index (out Hwy 2) is pretty close and I'd be more than happy to give you a brief tour out there if you can make it up this way as the weather improves. Send me a PM if interested. Have fun and be safe!


Big Wall Forum / Alien Offsets and unexpected suprises!
« on: March 15, 2007, 05:44:33 pm »
I would just like to share my excitement with the rest of you in the hopes that we can all live vicariously through one anothers gear purchases. I just received a set of CCH offsets in the mail. To add to my excitement, these came about five months after the order was placed. Granted my wife was a little pissed when the unexpected charge went through but I had long since given up on them and spent those dollars on other toys. It was like finding a $20 bill in the jacket that you're probably borrowing from your partner but won't tell him about as you kindly offer to buy gas.

So, what great gear suprises have you guys scored? Did you have someone who "used to climb" unload cool gear on you for next to nothing? Did some partner put you in their will for all their nice gear (so you did what anyone would do and killed them)? Any other fabulous gear suprises out there?

I need something to get me through the rainy days and this will have to suffice so help me out!!

Big Wall Trip Reports / 3 days of aid in the last week!
« on: February 18, 2007, 06:21:21 pm »
I've managed to get out with some regularity lately and the weather has cooperated. Here's a quick TR of each day.

Day 1 -City Park- C1 35m? Solo

This is the PNW classic. Bolt ladder to thin, steep crack. Could probably be done on nothing but 4,5,6 stoppers. Offsets are nice as are cam hooks. Many climbers first aid experience.

I spent a leisurely hour getting geared up and building my anchor. Took a few minutes over an hour from bottom to top. Used BD C3s quite frequently as they were faster in and out than nuts. Played around some more with cam hooks trying to test their limits a little more.

Day 2 -Return to City Park w/partner

This time around Brian came. This would be his first aid lead. I figured it would take somewhere around forever and sure enough it did. He's pretty new to the whole experience but we were both pleased with his efforts. I got the second pitch. Thin crack that becomes a flake of sorts. Weird placements in the crack within the crack, but it's big cams so you feel good about them. Leave an aider at this bolt before a mantle and be sure you're not daisied to the bolt. Here's where things got more interesting. I always seems to forget about the parts of things that I don't like. The second half of the pitch is partially free, at least for me at about 5.6 or 7. The problem is that since it's February, it is completely wet. Very slimy and mossy arm bars and stemming get me up to a glorious mantle. At least it would be glorious if the big flake that I overcammed a #4 into didn't flex so far when I pulled down on it. In hind sight, I probably should have just not bothered as it would probably just break off the flake if I fell on it, sending the flake down after me, or my belayer. Anyways, after much swearing, the slimy, wet, mossy mantle was over and I was clipping the chains. A couple of rappels and we were back to the ground and the car just as the rain began. Brian was pretty worked and we discussed why aid climbing seems to kick your ass so badly. Trad climbing for me tends to be a notch or two below my limit so the strain is mostly mental with gear and such. Sport climbing or TR'ing seems to be mostly physical as you can push yourself a little harder. Aid climibng seems to drain you mentally with dubious gear and sleeping belayers and physically as well just due to the workload of so many movements and hauling, etc. This was a good wakeup call for future plans for Brian and I think he'll do more to prepare himself for next time.

Day 3- Iron Horse to the "Ringing Flake", a giant pancake thin flake next to the anchor the rings when you tap it. C2

This was another friends first aid adventure but he would be on toprope. I told him he had to do at least one hook move and get into the upper steps on the ladders. He proceeded to make a very nice hook more off a very small edge and to topstep three consecutive times, including off of the hook. Granted this was all  on TR, but he was actually pretty smooth getting into the top steps. He was of course horridly slow, but made a good showing for his first time out.

All in all, a great three days with great to good enough weather. Hopefully I'll be out once or twice between now and next week. I hope others are getting out as well and if not hopefully you can live vicariously through these adventures. Enjoy!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Cutting Weight
« on: January 30, 2007, 05:31:15 pm »
The 70m rope shouldn't be for "linking" pitches, it is for short fixing. The extra 10m allows the leader to keep moving before they run out of rope. If you keep the leader moving, you'll cut days off your wall and thus cut weight.

Big Wall Forum / Re: speader bars
« on: January 03, 2007, 06:31:48 pm »
My Cliff Cabana came from UPS today and I am psyched. Here are my first impressions for those who are interested. I'll post up additional insight once I get to spend a night out in it.

Haul bag: The haul loops do not seem that burly and sure enough, it isn't designed to be hauled off the loops alone. The main monkey paw anchor attaches to the hauling carabiner so as to not lose the ledge if both haul loops failed. The bag material itself is pretty light weight stuff, particularly compared to the Metolius bag. Also there is no closure to really cover the top of the bag. These may be both non-issues but it seems to me that the bag could be beefier and I'd rather have a small piece of nylon covering the top than have water potentially going in the bag (there is a drain hole). Easy fix though but with the hanging it from the main suspension, I don't know if it'll be that effective of a closure. It seems that had they made burly haul straps, you wouldn't need to clip the main anchor point and thus you could have a nice closure on top. Maybe I'm being overly picky but this is more or less unanimously the best ledge out there so I thought it was worth mentioning

The corners: Nice wall bumper. Seems like an obvious solution to a common problem. We'll see how well they work. I expected them to be a little thicker to get the ledge away from the wall a bit more but oh well. The poles were a little stubborn to get in the first time or two but I imagine that is usually the case.

Poles: Beefy and inspiring. There is also a nice little stretch loop on the bed sides to slip the end poles through during storage and hauling. This keeps one more thing from coming out swinging when you pull the haul bag off. Also the shockcord inside is very beefy. one less thing to worry about.

Spreader bar: Also very beefy. We'll see how well a job it does after I sleep in it.

Bed tensioners: Three on each end. Allows for a really drum tight setup. Also, like someone may have mentioned, I think it makes assembly a little easier as the ledge fabric is totally loose.

Suspension: The webbing seems a little light duty here as well. I seem to remeber something about Yates doing this piece, including the buckles but I could be wrong. These are designed to be adjusted under load so I guess I expected them to be a little thicker. I know my adjustable daisies see some frayage (is that a word? it should be) and I anticiapte that these straps will as well. They do not look to be really easily replaced so we'll see. The quicklinks on the end are pretty nice. I can see the advantage to undoing them to fix twisting. As to the sloping ledge thing, an alternative might be to just create a tensioning setup of your own as there are bolt hangers on the corners to attach to. You'd essentially just need a knot on the corner and a clove hitch at the top. Not ideal, but neihter is a sloping ledge. The bolt hanger corners allow for this trickery rather easily. The sharkfins are not "load bearing" but you can adjust them to aid in tensioning or drop them altogether for solo use or man-spooning or otherwise. There are a total of 6 (three for each person) shock corded pockets. These seem like they'll be real handy for headlamps, snacks, smokes, lube, or whatever!

Overall impression: The ledge seems great. I tried to look at it with a very critical eye and all I came up with was the stuff above. After having played with both this and the Metolius (though not spending a night(s) in either, the BD seems to be the clear favorite. Obviously this costs a lot and I pity those paying retail, but if you want the best ledge that money can buy, you'd be hard pressed to find something nicer than this. Hope this helps! Now I'm off to sling my second set of hooks that also came with the ledge!

Big Wall Forum / Re: This Just In--route on South Tower Paine
« on: December 27, 2006, 09:29:53 am »
Good enough for me. I guess it's one thing in 4 pitches of 5.11d A4 M4 remain but if it's mostly broken terrain and the end of the real difficulties is over then that's legit to me. I was pondering this because a friend and I have a chunk of rock that is relatively unexplored and we're trying to preestablish some ethics for ourselves before we even get on the rock. We have the opportunity to do a few FAs here and would like to keep things as natural and pure as possible. The wall ends in what appears to be vegetation almost at the top and if three hours with a DR trimmer/mower is seperating me from the top than I can live without standing on top as well. Granted, Grade VI or VI and Grade III or IV are a long ways apart and Patagonia and PNW even farther but I think it is important to look to those pushing the sport as an example, both in what to do and what not to do.

Big Wall Forum / Re: This Just In--route on South Tower Paine
« on: December 20, 2006, 01:01:08 pm »
Hypothetical question here: Would Warren Harding have gotten credit for the Nose FA if he had bailed from the Changing Corners pitch?

I am all for routes that don't neccasarily end in a summit, but often times these are on ridges that may connect to the summit eventually. Having a route on a basically free standing tower that ends 200-300m below the top sounds like a project to return to, not a new route. When the entire route is 1100m from the glacier and they climbed 800m, that leaves a substantial chunk of stone, even if it is relatively easy. I'm sure the FA'ers are not fully satisfied with their finished project and would much rather that they reached the top, particularly since that was their intent from the beginning. I'm reminded of the climb with Alex Lowe, Mark Synnot and Jared Ogden on Trango Tower. The bigwall diffculties ended but there was still a fair amount of rock and ice and snow to negotiate to the top. They did get to the top and had to get back down this complicated section. That certainly adds something to the accomplishment to me. No disrespect to the FA party, it's just that when i fall at the chains (repeatedly) on easy ground after styling the crux, I still haven't sent the route. Alpine bigwalls and cragging are apples and oranges, but I still think that it's important to have some standards in place. I can't help but believe that many of you might have felt the same way when you read that they still had 200-300m to go but had to go down. Maybe it's just me? Regardless, congrats to the fellas from Scotland.

Big Wall Forum / Re: speader bars
« on: December 18, 2006, 09:39:36 am »
This may be of use to you. I work with them all the time and they've been great.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Traversing technique, avoiding the CF.
« on: December 12, 2006, 09:44:45 pm »
That is basically what I was intending to say. Sorry if there was confusion. The reracking aiders thing was just while you were placing a piece. Then you would reach out with the "lead" aider again. For my traverse, it was totally horizontal so climbing the ladder rungs was unneeded. I would place a piece, put a biner on it and clip the "lead" aider to it. The "second aider would go on the biner or directly to the piece stem or wire. this makes getting the "lead" aider off that much easier. Repeat until vomiting... If you are on a ascending traverse, you mgiht not be able to afford the biner and definitely would want to get higher in the steps but for my route there was a roof directly overhead so fourth steps were just fine. The problem I had run into was having a "right" and "left" aider which works fine for going up but not so good for sideways. I would keep having to reach across to the right side of my harness when heading left out of habit of clipping the "right" aider to the "right" side.
Live and learn. 

Big Wall Forum / Re: The Big Wall challenge!!
« on: December 12, 2006, 12:13:36 pm »
I am from Washington but I wasn't out at index recently. I've been tied up with school and work. The qtr. is over though so I hope to get out for a day or two here and there. I've benefited from your advice on and as well. That Bugaboos route was quite impressive.  We actually have an ex-partner in common. DB was climbing with you some awhile back and I had climbed with him here and there until a bit of a falling out. Small world!

Big Wall Forum / Re: speader bars
« on: December 10, 2006, 09:57:40 pm »
I could be wrong  (and usually I am) but I don't thing the Metolius has a door. Window, yes, but a door I do not recall. Anyone actually have one?

Big Wall Forum / Re: speader bars
« on: December 05, 2006, 09:20:01 pm »
BD has a "deluxe fly" that should be around after the new year. From what I understand, this fly will have a door(s), a window, possibly some ventilation, maybe full coverage (under the ledge as well) and will be a beefier material.

I've got the "Simple Fly" and am awaiting my ledge to go with it (backordered). I have played with the Metolius fly and it does seem like a notch above the BD "Simple" but not by a great deal. The only tangible benefit seems to be the window on the Metolius. If you want bomber, go with the BD ledge and "Deluxe" fly. Having not spent a night in either, I can not say for certain which is better but on paper and in hand the BD stuff seems superior.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Recommendations for a second set of camming units
« on: November 09, 2006, 03:50:53 pm »
It's a common arguement to go with two different brands for cams but I've never really seen the point of it, particularly in bigger cams where placements are likely to be less nuanced. Have you found a 1" crack that a camalot wouldn't fit in but something else would? Occaisional pods or other weirdness maybe but I just don't see the point. If you feel like they are the superior cam, which most people do, then get a second set of those. Rack 'em up on the color-coded neutrinos and you'll choose gear faster rather than having to sort through two brands.

I would strongly suggest checking out the C3s before throwing down money for more Aliens. They are quite a bit narrower and have been great for me so far. The chief complaint from most people seems to revolve around the stiffness of their trigger which pretty much only seems to make a difference when the guy at the climbing shop first hands them to you. Beyond that I doubt you'll notice it. It's like whining about the stiffness of the gates on your quickdraws. If you blow the clip because you can't get the gate to open then too bad. If you can't manage to pull the trigger on these guys then you probably shouldn't have left your couch.

If you do switch brands I would avoid U-stem devices. They do seem to get in the way more often then a single stem device.

I do see the arguement for switching brands for nuts, but for cams, I just don't buy it.

John and all
I tried to make a Big Wall Technique page that would be a menu like the Big Wall Equipment, Routes, Areas, etc. I did the search for Big Wall Technique and got no hits so I did the create new page and I pasted a document about leading in blocks and shortfixing as a team of three. All is well and good and you can find it in the search, but Big Wall Techniques is not an option on the main page like the other ones (Gear, Routes, Areas, etc.). Hopefully this article would just be one option within that Technique menu with many more to follow by others. Can someone else make this happen or explain to me how to make it happen? Thanks. Back to homework!

Perhaps a heading (like the gear, route, area heading) about specific techniques. I know I've got a couple of Word docs that would fit nicely into something like shortfixing as a team of three or otherwise. There seems to be many commonly asked questions:
How do I solo-belay?, How do you build solo anchors?, how do you $h!t on the wall, etc. We could have a bunch of different versions of ways to do things instead of endless forum searches.

Big Wall Forum / Re: The Big Wall challenge!!
« on: October 22, 2006, 06:19:42 pm »
Right on Caribouman and Lunchbox.
Post up anything new that you learned that went against your previous bigwall thinking. I hope to get out and fix the first pitch or two of a local project to be completed the following week. Climb safe!

Big Wall Forum / The Big Wall challenge!!
« on: October 15, 2006, 10:06:31 pm »
Here's a challenge for all you guys and gals who are relatively new to aid and walls and are in need of some practice: Reply to this thread by setting a goal in terms of number of pitches, or specific routes or whatever by a certain time. For example:

I will climb 5 pitches of aid per month from November to May.

I will climb 2 Grade V's next year.

This may be crap to some of you but for me with fulltime work and school (inc. summer qtr.) and mostly foul weather in the PNW, this is a lot. Also, almost of my aid is solo, after work in waning light and weather.

So, set a goal for yourself. You're going to do this route, or you're going to do your first penji or aid solo or whatever. The point is to throw it out there so people can flip you $h!t for not doing it later. Peer pressure as motivation! I know the chances of actually getting something done go up dramatically if you write it down and share it with others. Make the goals realistic otherwise motivation will quickly cease. Regardless of your experience (unless you've soloed Reticent and PSD in a day) you can find something that's pushing it for you. If you have no interest in getting better than just give people crap for not getting it done. That works too!
Take it or leave it!

Big Wall Forum / Harnesses
« on: October 15, 2006, 12:07:32 pm »
I just picked up the Yates Bigwall and noticed the same thing at first. I moved the leg loops a little bit and it seemed fine the rest of the day.

Big Wall Forum / Gear organization on the wall- the real "wall" not
« on: October 12, 2006, 12:41:19 pm »
I can fully appreciate getting uniform gear. I mostly have stuck with BD stuff and when I'm using someone else's rack it can get quite confusing. I should have prefaced this all by saying that I am phenominally unorganized in all other aspects of my life. I don't know what is is about aid climbing, but it forces you to be and stay organized. I think to each his/her own. If the felxibility of "everything goes with everything else" works for you than great. I know for me, so far, I like color coordinating. Plus it drastically increases the time that you can justify playing with gear at home because you have to put fancy labels on everyting (wife rolling her eyes in the background).

Big Wall Forum / Gear organization on the wall- the real "wall" not
« on: October 12, 2006, 11:14:29 am »
I'm looking for any tips around gear organization for walls. I've gone the way of PTPP somewhat with various colors of gear labels to keep things straight. This may be easier when you are soloing as you don't confuse your parters gear with yours.

Here's what I have so far:

Two seperate belays, 1 red taped and 1 blue. Each belay consists of 2 positron screwgates and a Petzl William locker. At this point, most of the belays at Index are two bolts.

All cam hooks are on blue webbing and on blue oval wires

All other hooks are on red webbing and a red oval wire

Anything that goes with the lead rope is green. This includes:
Rope bag
Rope bag biner
Prerigged screamers and their lockers
Biner for pulling up slack for fixing

Anything haul related is orange. This includes:
Haul rope bag
Haul rope bag biner
Biner for pulling up slack for fixing
Hauling device biner
Any haulbag biners
Any designated docking tether biners

I will eventually get around to creating a "standard" rack that will get a specific color. This will be enough gear to do most things and any real big gear or specialty pieces could be tagged up as needed.

Eventually there will also be a tag line/rack color and this will mark the biners needed for that. Also a color for bivy gear and/or the ledge.

So, I'm curous any tips or advice as to what you all are using. I know this helps me from allowing biners to float from one use to the other. That way. whenever I need something, it's always got a biner and is in the right place.

Big Wall Forum / Variation to the infamous cardalette question
« on: October 12, 2006, 07:41:39 am »
The cordalette, according to the giant and subesquent Supertaco threads, does not equalize placements nearly as well as we would like to think.

The good news was that shockloading really isn't as big of a concern as we might have thought it was.

Clearly it hasn't made you all think twice about its use as there isn't much interest in this thread.

The cordalette  may be to blame in a freakishly rare number of cases so if it has worked for years with such success, I'm not going to totally abandoned it because it's only 120% effective rather than 150% like some other more complicated or involved setup. I guess if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I'm heading out to Index, WA after work today for some more solo-aiding adventures. I'll post up if I have any new discoveries. Enjoy!

Big Wall Forum / Variation to the infamous cardalette question
« on: October 09, 2006, 12:48:49 pm »
So, looking for fresh ideas and thoughts here. Not wanting 96 pages of arguing. Here is something that I have been pondering:

For those of you who somehow missed it, the orignial, infamous cordalette discussion brought up some concerns about the overall safety, specifically in regards to equalization and the potential for shockloading due to strand failure, of the ever popular cordalette. This thread made it on to many climbing forums so it was hard to miss.

I originally dismissed some of this concern as the likelyhood a severe fall that directly loaded my cordalette setup was small. A factor 2 right off the belay before gear is placed being the only scenario which would generate enough force to matter (top roping and bringing up a second, though able to generate lots of force, are not going to pull gear from a well built anchor with a belayer who is doing their job correctly).

This thread came back into my head though as I've been spending a fair amount of time aid soloing (hopefully a light bulb is going on in people's heads). My anchors for aid soloing are often incorporating a cordalette and will often be asked to hold falls, sometimes big ones. Granted these are not factor two falls (hopefully) but it's not the same as a cordalette belay in a two person, multi-pitch scenario which is rarely loaded beyond body weight of the belayer hanging on the anchor or the follower falling.

I always incorporate the haulbag (if I brought one) and a screamer in to the anchor setup as well.

Long had a discussion in one of the anchor books about the merits of a 10,000lb. test anchor vs. a 40,000lb test anchor. Obviously if the 10,000lb. anchor was simplified (less gear, less time) it was superior, because realisitic loading would never compromise even the weaker of those two anchors.

So, this is not another "post pics of solo anchors" but by all means post them if you'd like. I would love to hear what some of you think in regards to incorporating the cordalette into a multipiece traditional (not bolts) anchor, within the context of a solo aiding, multipitch route. Include haulbags, screamers, or whatever if you like or don't. Most routes are going to include some bolt(s) at most belays but not all do. Assume that the gear is good.

Big Wall Forum / Daisy setup
« on: October 04, 2006, 01:12:29 pm »
I use Yates adj. and Yates Big Wall ladders. Two daisys and two ladders. If I need extra stability for something I will clip them both into the same piece, place my next piece and then clip a runner on that and unweight one ladder to move it up. This seems to keep some of my clustering down. As for the twisting, I just make a habit that anytime I'm going to allow myself a moment to sit and stare at whatever, I while untwist the daisys. This usually only needs to happen like once per pitch.

As for the adj. w/screamer, I don't like the idea as the screamer is not easily replaced and if this occurs midwall, you've got a lot of climbing to do with a daisy that is now significantly longer than you would lie. I suppose you could find a way to clip it off shorter, but I don't know if it's worth the hassle.

From my experience with the Met. version (1 pitch), they didn't seem that intuative to work and it seems that as things get tight in a corner or whatever, that they might be a pain. Also, the webbing didn't inspire much confidence. I don't have a tremendous amount of wear on my straps so the teeth don't seem to have too great an effect.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Solo single pitch aid adventures
« on: September 26, 2006, 02:38:10 pm »
Yeah, it's on my list of maybes for first VI. I'm planning on getting worked on the Leaning Tower or WC in the spring and maybe shoot for the 3D in late summer. I think I might do the Muir start to avoid some of the mandatory free on the lower Salathe as I don't free climb that strong beyond single pitch stuff and I might be soloing and I certainly don't free that hard while feeding slack on a gri-gri.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Solo single pitch aid adventures
« on: September 26, 2006, 01:38:25 pm »
You could have gone with nuts or cams that I think would have kept things at C2. In fact you probably could've fallen on to the first hook and had it hold. I guess the "crux" of that pitch is that section as the small cams on the traverse were just that, small cams but nothing crazy placement-wise. It would've been a pretty clean fall as you're in this shallow corner that you'd clear and then you swing out into space below the roof. I guess I didn't even consider the rating effect that three hooks in a row would have. They were pretty bomber though so I still stand by C2 I suppose. It's all A1 (C1) until you fall! Nice trip report on the King's canyon adventure. Nothing like repeated bailing to inspire the next trip!

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