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Messages - Baltoro

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151
Big Wall Trip Reports / Solo single pitch aid adventures
« on: September 26, 2006, 12:59:39 pm »
Arachnid Arch- Lower Town Wall- Index, WA

The goal of this adventure was to get some emore experience leading and cleaning traverses of which this route is great for.

This goes free at hard 11 but goes clean at C1/2. My anchor consisted of a few stoppers and a tied off block. This all came together with a screamer for some cush. A little free climbing to get the blood flowing and then a welcomed gold camalot. A few more placements got me to the start of the roof/arch. This basically traverses straight sideways for 20+ feet on small cams. I equalized a big #4 and a #3, threw a long-slung prusik on those guys to take the weight of the rope off the gri-gri, and began the traverse.

I think I placed in order: a .3, a .1, a 0 and another .1 . The route then goes straight up. One solid nut led me to a questionable stretch. I figured I could get a nut or small cam in somewhere but something told me to go for the cam hooks. I found a bomber home for one and was so pleased with that one that I placed another. A shaky free move that would no doubt result in getting something hung up and falling onto the cam hook was enough to inspire me to break out a Cliffhanger. Bomber as well. Built my anchor and came back down.

The cleaning was uneventful, save for the 0 pulling while cleaning/re-leading the beginnig traverse. On the way down though I saw this amazing yellow and black catapillar inching along. He came to a little roof on this totally vertical face and just inched along right up and over it. If that's not a metaphor for aid climbing than I don't know what is.

All in all, a great half day. Lessons learned for the day:

Always rerack your unused daisy/etriers on the side your heading to (left side when traversing left,vice-versa), do similiar on the cleaning sections, hooks are not that scary as the nut or cams would have been a little manky.

Highlight of the day: Tie for three consecutive hook moves and the catapillar. Good times.

152
Big Wall Forum / Wal Shoes
« on: April 21, 2006, 01:30:46 pm »
I've got a pair of guide tennies that have held up really well so far. I wear them at work basically every day during the week and I'm in a warehouse and they see a fair amount of abuse. Only have a few aid and free pitches on them but they climb quite well. One thing to note is that 5.10 updated the tennie with some sort of stiffening plastic thing under the arch, making them much nicer to stand in aiders than previous models. I don't know if those of you who've used them had this or not.

153
Big Wall Forum / Tips for avoiding a static daisy fall
« on: April 11, 2006, 09:54:22 pm »
I've got the Yates adj now and like them a lot, except when the button rubs against the rock prematurely releasing me from it's grasp.

How old are yours? I guess the new version has the release button a little more recessed than before. I've used the Metolius version and liked those but questioned the durability. Granted you can replace just the webbing which is nice but the fatter Yates strap seems to inspire more confidence. This from the guy with tons of 8mm slings! Ha!


Why do you think there is a reduced chance for static fall with adjustables?  I think I see what Dave T. is saying.  

I see it somewhat, though if your waist is above your current piece, which it better damn well be, than if you are to slip at that point you will fall onto the length above your piece times two. Granted, this would be much less than the full length of a standard pocket style daisy, but still a static fall onto your daisy, just shorter.

Has anyone used the Yates adjustable daisy with the built in screamer? Is the screamer replaceable or can it be taken off? Screamers are an expensive (though essential) insurance policy but if I have to replace the whole works that seems lke a waste. What if it rips mid wall? Now is my daisy as long as the full length screamer plus the regular daisy length? Hmm. Any info that anyone can pass along would be great.

154
Big Wall Forum / Tips for avoiding a static daisy fall
« on: April 11, 2006, 01:08:18 pm »
Quote from: DaveT.
rou still risk a factor one fall onto a static daisy. even the screamer daisies dont help enough.

I dispute this somewhat. I have Yates non-adjustable spectra (or whatever) daisies. I was told, due to the very little stretch of Spectra that I might want to add a shorty screamer to this system. I did and am thankful for it. I was second stepping to place a yellow tcu and didn't come back down far enough to test what looked like it would be a relatively decent placement. It wasn't and it pulled. I ended up falling on the piece I was standing on and ripped the screamer. The piece that caught the fall was a blue Alien (non-dimpled) that had three decent lobes and one crap lobe. Had that pulled it would have been a wild, but safe ride (bomber .75 about 10 feet away). Totally my fault for not coming back down to test. I think I was anxious to get off the Alien. I also weigh 250lbs. before you add the aid rack so it was no surprise to me that the screamer ripped but I was psyched that the Alien held. For what it's worth, I am swithcing out to adjustable daisys without the screamer as the likelyhood of daisy falls is so reduced with those. That and they just work better for me. Personal preference as usual. Hope this helps.

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