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Messages - T Moses

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Replacing old rivets
« on: January 09, 2014, 12:15:20 am »
Better late than never?

The ASCA sells tuning forks.  I mill them out for the ASCA using their fixture.  I donate my time because I believe it is a worthy cause and my way to give back to the community.  If you want some milled out contact Greg Barnes at the ASCA.  They have regular tuning forks for super cheap and the money gets used for more ASCA rebolting efforts.  Win/win.

You can make your own if you really want.  Go slow with the grinder and cut a 1/4" slot down the middle.  Keep it cool by dipping in water regularly.  By keeping it cool you preserve the temper of the piton.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tmoses in repose
« on: October 27, 2012, 05:41:54 pm »
It was COLD!  I remember trying to find stuff in the lee of the wind the whole time we were there.  I climbed with more clothing on than I ever had before.

Munge on "Bumpy":

Planet X:

Big Wall Forum / FS: A5 Large Double Simple Fly
« on: April 23, 2012, 07:46:09 pm »
For Sale:

Large A5/TNF Double fly.  No door or window.  Simple tent style.  I bought it new years ago and have never deployed it.  It got hauled up Electric Ladyland once.  The weather was great and we never got it out of the haul bag.  It is seam sealed.  Selling it because I have a fly with the door and window that I like better.  I don't need two.  It'll just sit wasting away in my garage.  I am asking $90 shipped via UPS in the cont. US.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Who's gonna rewire my Beaks?
« on: April 18, 2012, 10:18:58 pm »
Mucci is the swager now?  Or should that be: Mucci has the swagger now?  News to me and good on ya for taking care of the community.

For the groove I use a lathe and a straight tipped tool to make a perfect groove for a leash.   I know it's cheating but we are talking about aid climbing here so it's OK.  A little tubing over the cable around the wrist area and you have a professioanl like leash.  I can turn the chisel for you if you like.  You know how to get a hold of me.  You could do it with a cut off wheel to make a groove as suggested above also.  It is a chisel and would be totally fine.

Big Wall Forum / Re: WTB: Simple fly for A5 double ledge
« on: April 18, 2012, 10:09:02 pm »
Define simple.  I don't remember which style is which right now.  I have a spare I might be willing to seperate with if it is the right style you are looking for.

Big Wall Forum / Re: WTB: big hooks
« on: April 18, 2012, 10:06:47 pm »
I know I have been teasing ya'll forever about big hooks.  Munge has one of my prototypes if you can pry it out of his hands.  He might be bribeable. 

I have to finish #3 Tomahawks first.  Which by the way should be out this summer.  The design is done.  I just need to cut 'em out and machine 'em up. 

When I do the big hooks I will probably go with the Vermin style.  I like the stable design and relative light weight.  Are there any preferences? 

Big Wall Forum / Re: cam hook bouldering from the topo
« on: September 28, 2011, 10:51:35 pm »
Tolman and Munge,

Thanks for the link.  It was a cool read and I'll be in contact with him.

No, I won't be selling directly from my website.  I am currently rebuilding it after it was hacked.  I simply don't have time to make the product and sell to individual climbers.  Mountian Tools and Mountain Gear both do international sales over the internet.  I'm not saying Alaska is international but it does seem like another country sometimes.  Sarah Palin comes to mind as coming from another country.  Back to the original topic.  Check the retailers page for a loactaion near you (  I like doing it old school and getting to fondle the goods before laying the money down at the local brick and mortar shop.

Big Wall Forum / Re: cam hook bouldering from the topo
« on: September 21, 2011, 11:30:27 pm »
Who's photo?  I would love to use it.  My website got hacked and I am rebuilding it currently.  This photo would be great in a gallery or on the cam hook page.

Big Wall Forum / Re: scored a verm hook
« on: April 02, 2011, 11:17:01 pm »
Freight hooks?  You talking the haul bag hook or monster reach hook?

Sponsored climber?  I've got some very strict standards for that.  What makes you qualified? ;)

Big Wall Forum / Re: scored a verm hook
« on: April 01, 2011, 05:34:32 pm »

I need to update the "in the works" page.  #2 Tomahawks are done and #3's are being prototyped and field tested.

Big hooks are right after T3's.  No promises but possibly this fall.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Cam hooks on expando to reduce expando?
« on: March 31, 2011, 10:22:34 pm »
Keep in mind that different cam hooks apply different amounts of prying force to the crack.  Multipy the width of the tip by the distance to the webbing hole.  The fragile flake/extra large applies the least amount of outward force on the rock.  The narrow is the most followed by the micro and the wide.  The fragile flake is made of 7075-T6 alumnim.  The aluminum has a small amount of "bite".  It deforms slightly increasing the friction agianst the rock.  It is a bit of a speciality piece and not everyone wants to carry them.  My next choice would be the wide if it fits. 

Expando is some heads up stuff! 

Be carefull about leaving cam hooks "fixed".  Nanook sent me a wide that had been "straightened" by an expando crack closing during cleaning.   

Big Wall Forum / Re: scored a verm hook
« on: March 31, 2011, 09:58:03 pm »
This thread is worthless with out pictures!

I'd love to see the two side by side. 

Is your new hook the thick version?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tomahawks avaible at Mountain Gear now
« on: September 24, 2010, 03:06:30 pm »
Hmmm....last time I checked they were there.  I just checked and they aren't there.  I'll be calling them.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tomahawks avaible at Mountain Gear now
« on: September 24, 2010, 12:06:22 pm »
I don't have anybody in Canada yet.  Mountain Gear is the only one with international shipping who has the #2's right now. 

Thanks for the heads up on MEC.  I don't know about a company that advertises "uppers and downers" on their website.  Sounds fishy to me.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tomahawks avaible at Mountain Gear now
« on: September 23, 2010, 11:34:25 pm »
Marmot (Berkley), Mountain Gear, Yosemite Mountain Shop, Soon to go to Australia (Cliffhanger) and soon to go to the U.K. (Joe Brown's)

I only made 235 the first round so I expect to sell out pretty soon.

I think the #2's are ging to be a more versatile piece comparedd to the #1.  They are an excellent design (Bryan's fault not mine.).  These are probably going to be a better item for clean placement also.

Have fun with them and post some more photos of them in action.  I love the one pounded into the dirt!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tomahawks avaible at Mountain Gear now
« on: June 15, 2010, 07:16:43 pm »
The wait for #2's is getting shorter by the day. ;) 

I gotta finish a batch of #1's tonight.

Bryan and I have been busy working out the final details of the #2's.  All that reamins is the machining of the first batch.

D5 hammers have been in the works also.  T2's and D5's have been competing for my time.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Something to get excited about...
« on: May 14, 2010, 01:33:27 pm »
#2 Tomahawks should come out early/mid summer.  The goemetry is finallized and only one bend needs to be adjusted.  They are SWEET!  I got to use them on Electric Ladyland with Erik in February.  Met Mike coming down while we were going up.  Got totally worked up there but had a good time.

D5 Hammers should be late summer.

Big hooks, hmmm, still working on a new idea.

#3 Tomahawks are late fall at the earliest.  I do have a rough cut mild steel version on hand.  The first round of prototypes should be done in June sometime.

Thanks for the feedback from people who tested the proto #2's and hooks.

Big Wall Forum / Re: RSI hauler and pulleys
« on: April 26, 2010, 05:28:53 pm »
I like the looks of that top one.  Simple, strong, probably easy to use and hard to screw up. 

Looks to be made from extruded aluminum and then milled to make the "ears" that hold the cam and the "cup" for the rope.  The sheeve size would be nice to know.  If it is bushed or bearing would also be good info.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Bomber rivet hanger
« on: April 23, 2010, 09:49:22 pm »

That rivet hanger goes on the same rack my #24 nut came off of.

Big Wall Forum / Re: hammer design
« on: March 07, 2010, 09:26:57 pm »
Forging is underway at Ajax using the original dies.  I will update when I get more news.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Chicken Screamers?! what?
« on: January 13, 2010, 11:52:55 pm »

I'll take two of the aid version!

Big Wall Forum / Re: IRON SALE - REI
« on: January 01, 2010, 02:06:07 pm »
I WISH!  Moving today and cleaning tomorrow.  Pinns in Feb. likely.  Jan 23rd is our local Access Fund Crag Clean Up and I ma helping to organize.  You're welcome to come down and help then we can climb beautiful Bishop Peak!

Big Wall Forum / Re: IRON SALE - REI
« on: December 30, 2009, 11:12:38 pm »
REI has been down playing their climbing wares in store for years.  Well HARDwares at least.  As posted above the margins aren't as good and it doesn't move nearly as well.

Re Fremont Store:  The climbing wall was put in before the gym opened across the street.  They used to stock a whole lot more in the climbing department.  I was there in September and it was absolutely pitiful.

Munge:  You coming down?  You still got my number?  I am moving houses across town so I'll be busy but I can spare a little time for ya.  Keep holding for the hammer.  I'll make it happen. 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Possible Z pin
« on: December 17, 2009, 10:20:12 pm »
I'm considering making some Z's.  I've got a stack of 'em on my desk.

The Onda is hardened crommoly steel.  Same class of metal as cam hooks, regular hooks and regular pitons.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tomahawks avaible at Mountain Gear now
« on: December 17, 2009, 12:58:30 pm »

I've got ya'll hooked up!

I do love it when Munge starts talking about the iron! What do you expect from somebody named Munge?  He likes to talk dirty.  Mmmmm.....

Pivaraaf: PM me.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Possible Z pin
« on: December 17, 2009, 12:53:18 pm »
Made from ABS Aluminum.   Never heard of that classification. 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tomahawks avaible at Mountain Gear now
« on: December 16, 2009, 02:10:20 am »
Merry early Christmas.


I keep lookin' at that one.  Something about a guano covered corner keeps me reading but not getting on it.  Hmmmm.....

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: A trip to the Tree... Yosemite style
« on: December 12, 2009, 10:03:26 am »
Cool TR!  Way to make a bail into a great trip!  Dude, it's all climbing and it's all fun.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Big Wall Dog (aka Show us your home shop!)
« on: November 21, 2009, 01:55:44 pm »
Cool stuff Garbonzo!  I love machinery. 

This photo is from the regular shop.  I recently acquired a "new" to me mill.  It ain't purdy but it'll run like a whipped dog.

Big Wall Forum / Ever Dream of Climbing a Big Wall?
« on: November 21, 2009, 01:41:45 pm »
I don't mean day dreaming I'm talking night dreaming. 

I dreamed a dream last night that I was preping to do Mescalito with Nanook and Mike. .  To clarify that I am not some random stalker or internet junkie, I have climbed with Nanook and have talked with Mike. and met him in person.

On with the dream.  It started with meeting up with Nanook and Mike.  I drove into The Valley and went looking.  The Valley was packed.  Some school group had mobbed the place.  The intersections were wacked and the traffic was heinous .  There was a round-about inbetween Curry and Yosemite Village.  I think the planners must have been dropping acid. 

So I finally meet up and we head for the Big E.C. .   Nanook's got this cool ride (i don't remember exactly, but it was cool).  He says he's looking for something more fuel efficient.  Whatever.  The commute to The Captain must have been killing his budget (but the car was COOL!).

We arrive at the Big Stone and there are multiple roads going though the meadow.  It's organized into these blocks just like a city except there aren't any buildings.  Like they are planning some development but they haven't built yet.  Ghost town with out the town.   Huh, what is up with that?  The planners must have been doing acid again. 

Mike. and Nanook decide they need some practice.  Practice?  I think it's me who needs the practice!  They head over to the south side.  It might have been The Sentinel .  My dream was a little hazy.  I get left to pack the bags.  After a while I decide to go check on them.  I find them among what looks like ten thousand High Schoolers on the rock.  The rock looks a lot like Point Dume.  What do Point Dume and The Sentinel have in common?  Nothing except you climb on them.  Point Dume has a nice sandy beach, Socal waves, and beachgoers (nice looking beachgoers).  The dreamscape has the Dume rock, the sandy beach minus the ocean, and no beachgoers.

Ok, back to the climbing part.  When I go to check on them they are doing some strange stuff.  Nanook has already lead it, speed aiding or something, and is far end hauling.   Don't ask me why he is hauling.  We're not even doing this climb.  Who wants to practice hauling?  Mike is cleaning the climb.  Meanwhile all around us are TONS of high school kids climbing everything.  Mike. and Nanook have the only open space on the wall.

Ok, enough practice.  I get the haul bag and commence humping loads into the base of the climb.  The walk was pretty routine and the weather was perfect!  Then I woke up with a sore back.  DAMN IT!  I didn't even get to climb!

I think I might be jonesin' to do a wall a little to bad. Anybody else have a climbing dream?

Edited for something resembling clarity.

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