Author Topic: El Cap winter route suggestions  (Read 3646 times)

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Offline Durin

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El Cap winter route suggestions
« on: October 11, 2010, 05:52:52 pm »
Hey everyone,

Last winter I managed to get my scared ass up Zodiac. Over Christmas I'm hoping to get equally scared on another route and was hoping for suggestions.

I'm stronger now, and so is my partner. Went through some miserable, runoff-soaked nights on the Nose in March, and felt like superman when we did NIAD and the Salathe in June.

A buddy and I were thinking Magic Mushroom sounded great, but I'm afraid it's not a winter-friendly route. I'm guessing it gets late sun and that the lower pitches will be exposed to rock/icefall/runoff.

What about something on the right side? New Dawn, Mescalito, PO Wall? I think we're shooting for something long, arduous, and mostly clean. T-trip sounds a little too short but we might settle for it.

I think we'll be a little better prepared to battle the weather this time, and should have plenty of time to fix and run away and come back.

Any advice is appreciated!
« Last Edit: October 11, 2010, 05:58:36 pm by Durin »

Offline smack

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2010, 10:51:40 am »
not quite El cap but D7 would be a good warm up (or cool down)...


Offline Durin

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2010, 12:51:04 pm »
Definitely been thinking about D7 as well.

After going up the casual a couple of times in August, I'm tempted to say that D7 in winter is generally far more extreme than say, Zodiac in winter.

The Diamond is so much more alpine, with a big approach, a nasty approach to Broadway, no sun in winter, a more extreme area to topout in, and it's simply far colder.

At least you probably have spindrift instead of ice bombs falling...

Offline smack

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2010, 01:32:58 pm »
d7 has been on my list for awhile now. If you need a partner, I'm game for 16-30hrs of suffering.
-smack aka Kent




Offline Durin

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2010, 07:06:47 pm »
Hey Kent! Makes sense you'd be here :)

Maybe on some weekend in dec, jan, or feb?

Offline smack

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2010, 09:32:46 am »
Yes yes yes. let's talk.

Offline Durin

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2010, 01:07:21 pm »
Comeon guys, you can't all be on walls right now!

Offline YetAnotherDave

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2010, 04:44:55 pm »
Come on guys, you can't all be on walls right now!

nope - I'm at my desk.  And it's raining.  And I'm bitter!  ;)

IIRC mescalito can get bombed by ice from the rim in the winter - you probably want to stay further right than that. 

The guy on the trip during the last storm was in short sleeves when everyone else was in gore-tex (or ledged up, or both).  If you're looking for fun, with El Cap uncrowded, that looks like a good option.  If you really want to suffer in the cold why screw around in Yosemite, head to Baffin or southern Patagonia!

Offline jake

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #8 on: October 14, 2010, 05:06:40 pm »
Maybe just grab some pins and heads and climb Native Son, ZM, or Shortest Straw.  It will feel longer cause you will have to test placements...

Offline Durin

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #9 on: November 02, 2010, 05:35:03 pm »
Bump!

Anyone have other ideas?

skully

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #10 on: November 02, 2010, 06:17:21 pm »
Aurora.

Offline Mike.

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #11 on: November 02, 2010, 08:36:43 pm »
Good call, skully.

Belayer and leader need rain gear on P?. I don't remember, but it doesn't matter. Wear rain gear on pitches with runoff coming down. Kinda obvious. Just one pitch, the rest is dry assuming the slabby free at the end isn't under ice.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

skully

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #12 on: November 02, 2010, 10:09:12 pm »
There's Kaos, too. Steep until the last bit.
You CAN climb out of the shadow of the Great Overhang, but in the Winter special considerations rule.
Have you seen the size of the ice sheets that sail off after a storm? Even on the steeps it's a hazard, potentially.

Offline Durin

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #13 on: December 09, 2010, 01:22:53 am »
What about the Shield? Are the lines to heart up?

Offline Durin

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #14 on: December 15, 2010, 03:39:29 pm »
Has anyone tried the regular route on half dome in the winter?

Offline Durin

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #15 on: December 15, 2010, 03:39:48 pm »
Bueller?

skully

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #16 on: December 15, 2010, 07:07:00 pm »
I haven't heard of anyone recently.....But I have heard of folk on the Half Stone in Winter. I dunno, man, I'd want a few more direct photons.
It can be frigid up there in August!
Oh, I bet those lines are History. They'll be back next season, unless YOU string up some. I dunno about STARTING a Wall in the middle, anyway.
Missin' out on some quality slaving, sounds like. ;-)

Offline Durin

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #17 on: January 07, 2011, 11:01:03 pm »
Sent Zenyatta!

Fixed P1-5, blasted Jan 3rd, and topped out late Jan 5th. Stoked to be the first ones up there this year!

TR coming soon!

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #18 on: January 08, 2011, 01:38:13 am »
Sent Zenyatta!

Fixed P1-5, blasted Jan 3rd, and topped out late Jan 5th. Stoked to be the first ones up there this year!

TR coming soon!

SIK!  And quick too!  looking forward to pics!

skully

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #19 on: January 08, 2011, 01:00:27 pm »
Nice, Durin. Hope to see your TR. Nicely done.

Offline mhudon

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Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« Reply #20 on: January 08, 2011, 05:36:24 pm »
Way to go!