Author Topic: Virginia-Advances & Retreats in the Vertical  (Read 2439 times)

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skully

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Virginia-Advances & Retreats in the Vertical
« on: October 26, 2010, 09:40:48 am »
Just a couple lines about the recent Valley trip & Our(mine, Caz, & WaulRat's) ill-fated attempt at Virginia, a Clance-Bosque route variation to the Tangerine Trip. I got to the Valley on Sat, the 9th, & immediately set out for my fuzzy goal to climb on El Cap, the Tall One. I'd planned to climb the Heart route to Heart Ledge & from there take either the Shield or the Albatross. Well, just getting on the route presented some problems, as the 1st pitch is the VERY popular Sacherer Cracker. I finally got my turn & it is a fun pitch, 3/4 or so to about 7 inches at the top. I fixed a line on it & bivied at the base, just high enough to live in legal limbo. Then, after a couple days running into old friends & making a couple new ones, I ran into Caz & Waulrat at the Bridge with long faces. It seems their Wall attempt wasn't going well. I threw my lot in with theirs, as I hate to see Wallmonkeys defeated. They'd managed the 1st 2 of Virginia, but were about to bail in the face of Logistical difficulty. Waulrat refixed the line That was set to pull & up we went(caz & I, WR wanted to head elsewhere by then). We hauled up our ghetto & set sail upon the Seas of Stone.
Virginia links up small, thin features with some rivet ladders. Where there ARE features, they are very cool. I got a couple leads that were laddery link ups, though the real features I climbed were really good. Got to put 5 tomahawks into pitch 5(sweet)....Good gear, that.
Anyway, 3rd day up & Caz was felled by a microbe or a bacterial nasty. Messed him up GOOD. Poor guy had to really work at not shitting his brains out. I felt(and still do) that my greatest responsibility is to my partner, so we made a plan to escape back to the flat Earth. Several circus tricks(which were really fun, BTW) and several hours later, we hit the ground, & I had not the time to make another go at it(stupid job!).

Now, I know that most folks would consider the whole fiasco a failure, but I got to camp out in the sky a couple nights, got to enjoy Caz's 1st El Cap storm(well, rain, anyway), had a barbeque at the base, chased bears, made some new friends,  & overall had a rollicking good time for my 1st trip back to the Valley of Dreams in 10 years. I hear that Mark & John had a better outing.
Maybe it'll go smoother next trip.......All good. You take what the World gives, & feel thankful for it. Peace, out.
« Last Edit: July 29, 2011, 03:50:59 pm by skully »

Offline hoots

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Re: Virginia-Advances & Retreats in the Vertical
« Reply #1 on: October 26, 2010, 10:40:30 am »
WOOT!  If you had some fun, it's all good!  And good on ya for being a solid partner. 

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Virginia-Advances & Retreats in the Vertical
« Reply #2 on: October 26, 2010, 11:04:06 am »
righteous attempt

would dig hearing any tricks on retreating the overhang.  the ever heinous 'downlead' just has to have an easier way... not that I'm promoting bailing in general. :)



skully

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Re: Virginia-Advances & Retreats in the Vertical
« Reply #3 on: October 26, 2010, 11:15:18 am »
Well, Munge, there were several bolts in sight that made it easier.....rap to a bolt while getting a good swing going, then pull in, clip, & continue.
 Get back to the next belay & do it all again. On the last one I had to do this hand traverse back to the station. Circus tricks.

Offline goatboy

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Re: Virginia-Advances & Retreats in the Vertical
« Reply #4 on: October 26, 2010, 12:05:50 pm »
hey at least you got back to the valley, that's a big accomplishment right there for some of us working pukes.
I've never had a bad time there even when things don't always go as planned.

Offline waulrat

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Re: Virginia-Advances & Retreats in the Vertical
« Reply #5 on: October 26, 2010, 12:30:53 pm »
Skully, I had a great time in the "valley of Dreams" with you and Caz. Even though we didn't summit, my trip was awesome and I really enjoyed Skully's company and entertainment. I hope we can team up again in the future!
It's a tribal thing

skully

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Re: Virginia-Advances & Retreats in the Vertical
« Reply #6 on: October 26, 2010, 02:09:04 pm »
Thanks, Kyle. That means a lot. I'm sure that Caz appreciated your lightning response on the first aid run, too.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Virginia-Advances & Retreats in the Vertical
« Reply #7 on: October 26, 2010, 05:14:07 pm »
Well, Munge, there were several bolts in sight that made it easier.....rap to a bolt while getting a good swing going, then pull in, clip, & continue.
 Get back to the next belay & do it all again. On the last one I had to do this hand traverse back to the station. Circus tricks.


I hear that. Poor Mucci had the first rap on our bail a couple weeks ago. Raining and having to tension over like 20 feet somehow. Last move was a full on power pull in the rain to reach the 'just out of reach' anchor.

oofa

Offline Slakkey

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Re: Virginia-Advances & Retreats in the Vertical
« Reply #8 on: October 26, 2010, 10:22:45 pm »
Like I said before Skully its as much about the Journey and having a good time on the Big Stone. I like going up a few pitches and pulling out the ledge and just chill and relax. Free camping at its best, I know what you mean about the whole Sacherer Cracker thing and when we were up there just a few weeks ago the Free Blast was a freakin Log Jam as well.

Well now you got to go back in the spring right?

Offline Caz

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Re: Virginia-Advances & Retreats in the Vertical
« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2010, 10:49:34 pm »
Skully bro! Thanks for the good times up there. I had a blast untill... Well, need I say. I'm still a bummed out we had to bail, but it was for the best (I stopped 3 times on the way home if you know what I mean). Thanks for getting us down quickly and safely. I was in no shape for circus tricks. I hope one day we can climb something and I can make it up to you bro.


People,
I have to say, Skully is the most awesome dude I've had the pleasure of meeting in a long time. Not only is he a fun guy to hang out with and have a dirt bag BBQ with, but his knowledge is vast and his inspiration grand. In the short time I was able to hang out with I learned a lot about climbing, about Yosemite and El Cap, and about myself.

Skully, thanks for everything. Your my new hero and my new inspiration!

Zac
I do this for fun...

skully

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Re: Virginia-Advances & Retreats in the Vertical
« Reply #10 on: October 26, 2010, 11:34:52 pm »
Nothin' to make up for, Zac. Excuse the pun, but shit happens.
How you deal with that determines one's character. Took me a little while to figure that out, once upon a time.
I enjoyed the time we spent, except for THAT part. All Good.
I'll climb with ya again. You did some good leads.
Thanks for your kind words, but I think we're ALL like that. It's a Tribal thing. The Tribe makes the Man.
Rockin' on, Zac. Hey, I found the missing headlamp. It was in my rainshell pocket. Mystery solved!

Russ, I'll be back as soon as! It won't take 10 years, I'll grant you that. I've plans, oh, yes.
We'll see which bear fruit.

« Last Edit: October 26, 2010, 11:47:40 pm by skully »

Offline mhudon

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Re: Virginia-Advances & Retreats in the Vertical
« Reply #11 on: October 27, 2010, 09:16:20 am »
I had a false start on the Shield last year as my first wall from my "come back". Since then though, I'm 3 for 3. The rock will be there for a while, don't loose your mind and it'll all work out fine.

Caz, nice to meet you, bummer about your sickness.