Author Topic: Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.  (Read 2394 times)

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Offline hoipolloi

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Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.
« on: February 14, 2011, 12:47:43 pm »
I think this rockfall, which many theorized as having come from SS area was actually the large missing piece on Pitch 10 of Zenatta.  I haven't been on SS to confirm that, but the size and shape of the piece of stone that came down is right for being the huge piece missing on ZM.  (I was on Zodiac when it came down).

Mystery solved. possibly.  Ill call mythbusters and see what they say.

skully

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Re: Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.
« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2011, 08:57:23 am »
So what's that pitch like now?

Offline lunchbox

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Re: Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.
« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2011, 01:22:52 am »
I think that fell off before 2005.  Ammon has post about it on the taco.
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/route_beta.php?r=ybelzeny

Here's an Evan's photo from Lambone's 2008ish ascent.  It's missing here for sure.


The McTopo shows a flake and small cams but you do 6 or 8 hook moves to reach the anchor after climbing over several small fixed heads in the seam below.  Fortunately its a clean fall if you pull a few heads before you get there!

Offline jake

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Re: Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.
« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2011, 07:44:06 pm »
That flake on pitch 10 was missing when I did ZM in 2005 and it was quite challenging to reach the belay.  I spent 2-3 hours on the same hook trying to find something else to hook, I ended up having to cheat and use a stiff quick draw to extend my reach a half a foot to get to the belay.  Ammon went up there after I did and whipped off that hook move onto those heads and got the rope stuck down below in the corner... HAHAHA... nuts!  I think he used a fuckness duct taped to get to the belay.  I later heard people drilled or enchanted that area. 

The flake that made up the end of the 8oclock roof pitch and the start of one of the Shortest Straw pitches fell off in 2005 too.  Was the loosest thing I've ever climbed from the SS side!  I was almost positive it was going to rip off the wall with me on it.  You could feel it leaning away from the wall after I got a hook on top and was on it. There was all sorts of cracking and rocks falling down further into it too.  Sure enough it went a few weeks later and almost whacked nanook. 

No idea what fell off in 2009 but the pitch 5 area of shortest straw was way rotten and hollow.   

Offline lambone

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Re: Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.
« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2011, 12:19:00 am »
I think BriGuy led that pitch, but we didn't have any unusual trouble getting past it.

Would like to know if the recent rockfall effected SS.

Offline BriGuy

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Re: Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.
« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2011, 10:03:38 pm »
Yeah, I took my time on that section. The hooks were mostly drilled but there was a sketchy one.....it has been one of the few times where if I fell, I knew I was going for a long ride.....if the tiny heads ripped, more than 50' fall potential I thought...but clean?....

Offline lambone

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Re: Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.
« Reply #6 on: March 23, 2011, 02:28:53 pm »
You styled it bro. We should hop on the Straw...

Offline BriGuy

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Re: Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.
« Reply #7 on: March 23, 2011, 10:25:28 pm »
Yes, the Straw sounds great! I'm pretty psyched on that route. Does not seem to get done all that often....everyone I have met that has climbed it says it is really fun.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.
« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2011, 11:21:26 am »
Shortest Straw is on the calendar for spring of 2012 for me!

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.
« Reply #9 on: March 24, 2011, 11:58:26 am »
I went up on the straw a few weeks ago.  After getting hammered by massive ice fall at the base for a few hours we finally decided it had stopped enough and made a go at it.

We jammed up the first three pitches, the climbing was ok.  Lots of rivets.  The thing that bothered me, and I think partially led to my motivation fizzling (despite ice and waterfalls) was that there were SO MANY heads on the route.  Heads that DID NOT need to be there.  Several times I placed small cams next to heads, or could have put a small cam where a head was.

In the middle of the Journey through the Brain pitch (more like A3+) there were two ugly heads right next to 3 really good cams!  It pissed me off and bothered me that some dumbass would have done so much unnecessary destruction.  There was also a chicken rivet that really needs to be chopped towards the beginning...

I would like to finish the route but plan to take a cold chisel and butterknife the next time I go and try to bring the route back to life a bit.  Clipping heads isn't fun, I only like doing it when the climbing requires it.  For me, that detracted a lot.  When we looked up at pitch 4, rivets to what should be A2 beaks, and saw a big line of heads (and then got hammered by a waterfall), we lost motivation..

Offline mhudon

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Re: Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.
« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2011, 12:07:31 pm »
After seeing all the useless heads on Tribal Rite and the Shield, I'm taking a butterknife on the lead with me from now on. Heads are the first resort of the inept.

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.
« Reply #11 on: April 18, 2011, 11:45:32 pm »
The rockfall doesn't seem to have come off of Shortest Straw.  TR to come.

Offline lambone

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Re: Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.
« Reply #12 on: April 19, 2011, 12:53:26 am »
Nice! Can't wait. Congrats on the send!

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Rockfall off Shortest Straw/ZM area in Fall of 2009. Solved.
« Reply #13 on: April 19, 2011, 11:14:20 pm »
really nice, looking forward to the TR