Author Topic: Making or getting ahold of a butterknife?  (Read 6566 times)

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Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Making or getting ahold of a butterknife?
« Reply #30 on: June 04, 2011, 12:33:58 am »
oooh, a thread about head placements and knowing when to use them and when not.


though, maybe that's dumb, if a beak goes in, it's a beak, right?

Offline Mike.

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Re: Making or getting ahold of a butterknife?
« Reply #31 on: June 05, 2011, 07:31:44 am »
Heads = pretty much last-resort gear, IMO.

Don't forget the chisel for that weird RURP or beak placement you can't get your hammer on, or on very well.
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Offline cobbledik

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Re: Making or getting ahold of a butterknife?
« Reply #32 on: June 06, 2011, 09:24:51 am »
hmmm, what tool is best for taking out fixed and rusted rurps? would a punch work best or stick with the butterknife? and is it better toi hit it from the top or the bottom? (c'mon, that joke is too easy and beneath your considerable sexual innuendo ability)
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Durin

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Re: Making or getting ahold of a butterknife?
« Reply #33 on: June 14, 2011, 01:21:40 pm »
Climbed the Prow on the Column on June 8/9....

The bolt ladder on pitch 5 had three blown heads in a little pod between two bolts. I know of one party that tried it hammerless and bailed, and heard of others.

I managed to stick a pecker into one of the dead heads, but we took it right out because it seemed so weak.

I don't really know anything about butterknives or hammering in general, but if the dead heads were removed, you could maybe get a pecker or beak behind em'.

Job's open!

Offline *Mucci*

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Re: Making or getting ahold of a butterknife?
« Reply #34 on: June 14, 2011, 01:43:22 pm »
I bailed at the start of 5 last fall. Going clean was not happening.

nothing fixed at all, just blobs.  Somebody ripped the thing from the start of the bolt ladder.

Definately A3 for at least 5 placements off the belay when I was there, provided you had beaks and heads to paste.

Tons of junk.

How much of that first part was fixed?

Offline Durin

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Re: Making or getting ahold of a butterknife?
« Reply #35 on: June 15, 2011, 01:13:50 am »
There was a copperhead off the 4th belay, then a little higher up a head with a broken and retied cable.

A move or two above that was an enormous reach to a fixed piece - I'm 6'0'' and top stepped and had to hook the wire using a big hook that extended my reach another inch or two further than a biner.