Author Topic: defeating wall rats on heart ledges  (Read 2676 times)

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Offline cobbledik

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defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« on: April 18, 2011, 10:35:52 am »
I was wondering what the best (or better) method of protecting food from wall rats when you prehaul gear to heart ledges before doing freeblast. I'm 35-65% sure that I'm going to do battle with the shield next week. Maybe...well, probably...well, hopefully.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Baltoro

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2011, 11:21:31 am »
If it was peak wall season you might be able to pay one of the Monkeys at the bridge to sit on Heart with your food and guard it.

As for actual useful advice, I saw Mark and John used some bags made from a wide mesh or maybe netting to secure some of their stuff on one of those ledges. That way there was nothing to chew through and if everything is in hard containers then theoretically you'd be good.

Either that or build a small altar of food off to the side that hopefully they'd get fat on and you'd be back before they were hungry for more.
Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
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Offline cobbledik

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2011, 11:44:27 am »
was hoping to bring some non-canned food...
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

skully

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2011, 12:08:41 pm »
Try to bring that stuff with you when you blast.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2011, 01:27:31 pm »
makes sense.  will do
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mhudon

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #5 on: April 18, 2011, 08:44:37 pm »
John and I stashed everything but food up there. We brought up the food on the last day. The mesh bag was to signify that that stuff was a dedicated batch of stuff and not Mammoth Ledges garbage.

Offline Caz

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2011, 11:34:08 pm »
You could climb the 1st day and haul your shit the 2nd day...

You're going up twice anyway, and that way you're fresh for free blast...
I do this for fun...

Offline hoipolloi

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #7 on: April 18, 2011, 11:44:04 pm »
Best Solution.  Don't prehaul. It's not that bad to haul the Freeblast.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #8 on: April 19, 2011, 11:41:36 pm »
I heard over at ST that the fixed lines are not there. Since hoipolloi mentioned hauling the entire route I'm inclined to do that since bringing 4 more ropes up with me to fix feels like i'll be hauling anyways.
Does anyone have a different opinion about hauling the first pitches versus bringing up extra rope to do the direct haul once I reach heart ledges?
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

skully

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #9 on: April 20, 2011, 09:15:03 am »
I agree with HoiPolloi. It seems like setting up to haul direct to the Heart would add work to your project.
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Offline cobbledik

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #10 on: April 20, 2011, 09:36:45 am »
yup.

I'm planning on posting the ascent or retreat TR here instead of ST because this place is more warm and fuzzy to me. Hurray bigwall, boo taco.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mhudon

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #11 on: April 20, 2011, 11:02:43 am »
Well, back in the days of my youth ;-) we used to haul the slabs all the time. If you desire a more casual ascent and don't have to worry about time, setting up the raps for hauling and going that way is not bad. You'll need someone at the base to grab the ropes you throw off though. It certainly adds a level of complexity to climb Freeblast with extra ropes, fix down from Heart, come back with a extra friend, haul your bags and toss of your extra ropes.

Offline lambone

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #12 on: April 20, 2011, 11:14:13 am »
I have stashed food a couple times in the bottom of the haulbag on Mammoth Terrace and never had any problem. Definitely varmints up there tho.

Honestly I think it's more likely that some mangy climbing wall rats raid your food and water up there.
« Last Edit: April 20, 2011, 11:31:00 am by lambone »

Offline goatboy

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #13 on: April 20, 2011, 03:54:00 pm »
3 and 5 gallon plastic paint buckets have always worked for me.
Pull off the wire handle and drill 10mm holes where the wire handle meets the bucket then thread some cord through and tie your favorite knot on the inside for a clip in loop. Thread some old garden hose over the cord if you think something might eat through the cord and send the stash to the ground.


skully

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2011, 04:22:35 pm »
We took a 5 gallon bucket out to Angel Wings.....The Marmots couldn't get in it, but they rolled it down the talus a few hundred feet!
I've used buckets a lot on the Column and El Cap with no problems.
« Last Edit: April 20, 2011, 04:24:08 pm by skully »

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #15 on: May 01, 2011, 11:36:52 am »
Is he up there? Saw some folks low on Freeblast yesterday. Haul Freeblast? I've only hauled that way once and thought the bag got stuck a couple times each pitch compared to easy hauling up to the Heart.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #16 on: May 02, 2011, 11:28:02 am »
Hauled part of freeblast, came down because of weather, started up Zodiac then came down because of a slower party in front and getting "rained" on each morning and night from runoff - final night ended with us sleeping in our ledge at pitch 4 in a pool of icemelt, i guess synthetic does keep you warm when wet.

TR to come.

We met Erik in the Bar between bailing freeblast and heading over to Zodiac. Good times.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline lambone

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #17 on: May 02, 2011, 11:31:05 am »
oooohhh...
yeah, as you know by now, the beta on the Zod is to fix to p3 and then bivi up at 7 on your first night.

hope you had some fun anyway!

Offline cobbledik

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Re: defeating wall rats on heart ledges
« Reply #18 on: May 02, 2011, 01:21:23 pm »
yeah, we hauled from the ground to 4 based upon Nanook's advice (which was stellar) but couldn't get any higher than that because of the team in front of us taking their turn and then the runoff rain came.

We should have left the gear and rapped back to the ground but I think my partner would not have wanted to do the 400' jug in the morning and by the time we were sitting in a pool of wet later that night, it was a bit late. If only my partner didn't have a wedding to get to by Sat. Ohs wells.

But main point, hauling from 0-4 is amazing! I can't imagine hauling from 2to3 or 3to4.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.