Author Topic: FYI: Gridlock issue with GriGri  (Read 2996 times)

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Offline cobbledik

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FYI: Gridlock issue with GriGri
« on: June 07, 2011, 04:00:46 pm »
***Cross posted at ST as well.*** but since GriGri is such a big part of bigwall figured I'd put it here too.

There's a massive problem with using a Gridlock with a GriGri.  Those of you with that combination should try to emulate this issue. I think it's intuitive for most people to place the smaller side into the belay loop  but this can be dangerous!
the Bdel instructions for the biner warn against loading the carabiner this way but climbers do not always perused the instructions properly, especially those with a lot of experience and time using standard carabiners.

Here's the issue:
When using the Gridlock, if you place the smaller side onto the belay loop and the larger side to the GriGri you can actually crossload your biner easily. Not only is it easy to crossload, but the GriGri can lock into place keeping the crossloading more than momentary but for the entire time it takes you to look down.
To use this biner, you MUST keep the GriGri in the smaller section of the biner.


I've included a still image from a video showing this in action. I was able to produce this crossloading with one hand emulating some of the side to side action that could realistically happen when belaying.
http://vimeo.com/24788940



Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: FYI: Gridlock issue with GriGri
« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2011, 04:07:04 pm »
good call out.


I actually gave this some thought recently, and thought about how it might load and doing the gri on the lock side to help keep the gri lined up so that it didn't get on the side. Not saying I'm all that and a bag of cookies, because i didn't give thought to how it would lock on the side like shown.

thx CD

Offline cobbledik

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Re: FYI: Gridlock issue with GriGri
« Reply #2 on: June 07, 2011, 05:02:41 pm »
*crosspost from my ST thread*

I think the arch is not the main culprit (though it is where we see the problem). The problem is the combination with the arch and the extended gate that continues into the biner. This locks the biner in that sideways position which then causes the GriGri to become locked at the apex of the arch.

come to think of it, it is probably an important detail about the belay loop used in my experience. I'm using a Yates Shield harness that has a belay loop that is markedly wider than my other harness belay loops. I'm willing to bet that a loop that is less wide would be less likely to be caught so securely behind the gate flap thingy.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

skully

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Re: FYI: Gridlock issue with GriGri
« Reply #3 on: June 07, 2011, 07:57:55 pm »
Meh. I'm just not that enthused by that kinda carabiner. I have an Attache on my Gri Gri.
Appreciate you gettin' the word out, though.
« Last Edit: June 07, 2011, 10:43:00 pm by skully »

Offline cobbledik

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Re: FYI: Gridlock issue with GriGri
« Reply #4 on: June 08, 2011, 12:30:06 am »
I stopped using them after a week. just never felt right.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline jake

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Re: FYI: Gridlock issue with GriGri
« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2011, 10:06:31 am »
Use a huge steel biner...  there are several that have high minor/short axis strength.  

Petzl Attache (Al)-   23 kN long axis, 6 kN open gate, 7 kN short axis
Petzl Vulcan (steel)-  40 kN long axis, 11 kN open gate, 16 kN short axis

Many of the steel biners have way higher strength in the long axis than the one I compared to the attache.  
« Last Edit: June 08, 2011, 10:08:33 am by jake »

Offline cobbledik

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Re: FYI: Gridlock issue with GriGri
« Reply #6 on: June 08, 2011, 11:25:41 am »
I know DMM has a good selection of steel biner versions of their alum line as well as steel mallions. Just haven't got around to getting one yet.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Jack Herer

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Re: FYI: Gridlock issue with GriGri
« Reply #7 on: June 12, 2011, 08:06:14 pm »
not sure how much this helps since i dont know where it came from, but i use a triangular steel biner, with quicklink style screw colosure, no possible way to cross load or unscrew itself, pretty bomber IMO will google to see if i can find one like it