Author Topic: Zenyatta Mondatta, Solo, June 2011 Photos  (Read 6201 times)

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Offline mhudon

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Re: Zenyatta Mondatta, Solo, June 2011 Photos
« Reply #30 on: July 26, 2011, 06:09:42 pm »
Oops, I'll work on that basic math....

The System is backed up, the main biner holding the 2:1, me and the haul bag is clipped into the same biner that the rope is clipped into. If that bolt would fail, eventually the whole cluster would hit the next bolt. (although, yeah, the black rope is a static rope, it would generate huge loads, rip out the second bolt, if not break the biner and the whole gig, maybe me included would die a horrible death).

A back up is a good idea, I should start doing that, it's dumb not to.

Offline offset

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Re: Zenyatta Mondatta, Solo, June 2011 Photos
« Reply #31 on: July 26, 2011, 06:25:59 pm »
all pictures in the world are already drawn... thanks to the google....



think of the pulley system not as a load multiplier (3 times the load, 9 times the load)...instead, think of them as load dividers (1/3rd the load 1/9th the load).  that is, that the pulley divides the load into many strands of rope.  each strand takes a fraction of the load and it's easier for you because you are only pulling on one of those strands of rope.  all those strands are inside the metaphorical black box.  the single strand coming out of the box is the one that goes to the bolt and is equal to all those fractions added up:  1/3 + 1/3 + 1/3 = 1  for example. 

maybe that helps???

Offline offset

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Re: Zenyatta Mondatta, Solo, June 2011 Photos
« Reply #32 on: July 26, 2011, 06:29:58 pm »
in any of those above cases, however, you do have to add the force of the haul/pull of the climber/climbers.  so it would be  1) 200 N, 2)150n, 3)133.33333 N, 4) 125N.. respectively

think of the climber hanging from the other bolt and foot hauling...

Offline mhudon

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Re: Zenyatta Mondatta, Solo, June 2011 Photos
« Reply #33 on: July 27, 2011, 09:20:45 am »
Good to know Offset, thanks.