Author Topic: Eagle's Way...  (Read 1943 times)

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Offline offset

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Eagle's Way...
« on: August 25, 2011, 11:06:43 am »
....discuss...

??


Offline Mike.

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Re: Eagle's Way...
« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2011, 01:11:56 pm »
Hot as hell and bad hauling down low. Some good pitches above, but no must-do.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Eagle's Way...
« Reply #2 on: August 25, 2011, 03:36:21 pm »
I was on the Dawn Wall when they were doing the first ascent. Does that count?

skully

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Re: Eagle's Way...
« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2011, 09:11:38 pm »
Leo would say there's a free route there now. Hehehe.
I did the first 5, once upon a time. Hauling mostly sucks, some teamwork was required. 3 & 4 run in one with 60 Meter. Shuttle across 5 or you'll die fer sure. That's all I know about it.  Upper headwall looks bitchin'.

Offline Didder

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Re: Eagle's Way...
« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2011, 10:23:42 pm »
I did this route maybe 12 years ago and after getting through the lower pitches thought it was
pretty enjoyable. I seem to remember there were like 5 parties on the Zodiac so we
opted for Eagle's Way. It's a lot of climbing for a few fun pitches but it's nice to get off the
beaten path every now and again.... Plus how many people do you know who can say they
climbed Eagle's Way...

Offline Mr.

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Re: Eagle's Way...
« Reply #5 on: August 26, 2011, 09:44:59 am »
an excellent route. nothing too out there. no crazy gear tricks or ultra dangerous stuff. maybe some old 1/4" lead rivets but the belays are bomber, either totally replaced or 1 bomber bolt and 2-3 ok ones. we didnt have any problems hauling down low. we left the bags (unroped) on the top of p1 and then hauled off of the PSD bolt anchors which are 2 pitches up from there. so only 2 hauls (with a 70) to get to a traversing ledge section that leads to the long wandering 5.7/8 pitch. i escorted the bags across the traverse here. the middle third of the route is nice and steep and the crux. you get a great view of all the stuff under devils brow, nice exposure, clean rock. we ended up placing quite a few pins and cam hooks under those overlaps. the upper third gets more slabby, you are climbing ramps at this point and it gets more cruiser, hauling is still easy. this route offers a nice perspective of the whole east wall. overall i thought this route was a lot better that what i had heard from other people. i thought it was maybe one step up from zodiac or lost world/squeeze play.  
« Last Edit: August 26, 2011, 09:49:41 am by Mr. »

Offline Mike.

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Re: Eagle's Way...
« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2011, 10:15:32 am »
Mr.: Better than Zodiac, or more difficult? I think any EC route with five approach pitches gets automatically relegated to the non-classic column.

That hanging flake/block is gonna come off some day, most likely with a climber traversing it. No avoiding it, lead or second. Could probably surf it out; it'd be exciting for sure.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline offset

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Re: Eagle's Way...
« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2011, 12:41:48 pm »
Quote
That hanging flake/block is gonna come off some day, most likely with a climber traversing it. No avoiding it, lead or second. Could probably surf it out; it'd be exciting for sure.

uhh... .. i think i've heard enough....

Offline Mr.

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Re: Eagle's Way...
« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2011, 02:54:50 pm »
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I think any EC route with five approach pitches gets automatically relegated to the non-classic column.

c'mon gimme a break...

we had fun. it is a nice route. it gets climbed several times a year. it is a step up in difficulty.

didn't someone get hurt on the trip? whats the big deal?


Offline Mike.

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Re: Eagle's Way...
« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2011, 03:18:57 pm »
I can dig having the best times on borderline quality routes--have done it a bunch. But no breaks for a route with a multi hundred feet diorite slog when there are so many EC routes that are primo from the ground to the summit and twice as long.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline offset

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Re: Eagle's Way...
« Reply #10 on: August 26, 2011, 04:49:32 pm »
I don't have the time (and/or the b4lls) for 'twice as long'.

Offline Mr.

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Re: Eagle's Way...
« Reply #11 on: August 27, 2011, 10:22:24 am »
i hear ya mike. we were psyched when the wall finally kicked back. the the lower angle section goes quick, though, and is pretty solid there. it isn't straight up diorite, but more of a mixture. i don't think the bags got stuck in that section. just think of it as part of the process to gain access to a very nice section of the wall. not trying to sandbag, it is a a3+ pitch, the middle third of the route is stacked with a2+/a3 pitches... like it says it the book...  the route just gets knocked for its opening pitches.

something like lost world/squeeze play would be worthy of your consideration, offset, because you get nice easy cleaning, sweet ledge bivys, fun and safe easy mixed/nailing pitches, a great send for a limited time frame... cruise your way up a big 'ol gold slab, get off the deck, and find some chillin'. its all good, right?

Offline lambone

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Re: Eagle's Way...
« Reply #12 on: August 28, 2011, 09:28:52 am »
I've had trouble sticking to an Eagles Way plan.

Had intentions of pushing it once and Aaron and Dave talked me out of it saying it was a difficult and somewhat awkward route to short-fix on...so we ended up doing the Zod instead. Both Aaron and Ammon have push stories that turned into multi-day epics on EW.

Some of the upper pitches look pretty nice.
« Last Edit: August 28, 2011, 09:31:18 am by lambone »

Offline offset

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Re: Eagle's Way...
« Reply #13 on: August 28, 2011, 12:21:30 pm »
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something like lost world/squeeze play would be worthy of your consideration,

it's sort of a consideration.  i bailed off it (solo) last year from the top of 6.   ...it still haunts me...