Author Topic: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO  (Read 8109 times)

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Offline Didder

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Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« Reply #60 on: October 28, 2011, 08:50:54 am »
Great work Mark ... Looks like you had a great climb... love the videos.

Offline Mike.

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Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« Reply #61 on: October 30, 2011, 05:39:22 pm »
Looking forward to reading a report (not pushing...). I'm intrigued to hear how Max took it all after so long. How many decades since his last grade six rock?

Also look fwd to both your accounts of your reunion. I've explored getting my original go-to partner to saddle back up. Looks doubtful with lack of desire on his side, not to mention health issues. One of my other early chums claims interest--we'll see. Glad to see some elder tribesmen staying active. Thank goodness for aid... Anyway, cool that you guys got to have the experience.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mhudon

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Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« Reply #62 on: October 30, 2011, 08:49:20 pm »
The last time Max climbed a grade six was when we tried to free climb the South Face of Mt. Watkins in the fall of 1979. His last El Cap route was the Nose in that same season. His last trip up on a nail-up was when we attempted the 4th ascent of the PO in the spring of 1978. I dropped a rock on my finger and we bailed. On the South Seas, we climbed to within 1.5 pitches of that spot.

We're already planning next years's route.

Offline Mike.

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Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« Reply #63 on: October 31, 2011, 02:24:54 pm »
A long time coming for Max, very cool.

That you have another one already on the calender says something.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mhudon

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Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« Reply #64 on: December 05, 2011, 06:15:36 pm »
Here is a photo of all the slag gear we took off the South Seas/Pacific Ocean Wall recently.

Not all of the slings we cut off are in the photo since we were tossing them into our garbage bag. There were a least as many again as what is shown here.

Max invented a great little trick to help avoid leaving lower out slings. He would run his wrist through a 22" sling, run the remainder of the sling through the eye of whatever he had to lower out from, run the sling back towards his hand and grab it with two fingers. He'd clean the gear including the old tat sling and then merely let go with his fingers and take the swing (in moderation, of course, a giant swing wouldn't be a good idea). All in all, for 90% of the places people leave lower out tat, this is an easy, safe and quick way to clean and not leave the route strewn with garbage.

We need to up our game to keeps the routes clean, don't you think?


Offline Baltoro

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Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« Reply #65 on: December 06, 2011, 11:23:27 am »
Mark
I've had good luck with lowerouts using a fifi hook on a long sling. You put a cord through the top hole on the fifi hook and can clip another long sling to that. Say you need 48" of lowerout, plus a little mini-penji. By using two 48" slings and the fifi you can pop the fifi remotely. Theoretically you could do this with any length of lowerout but it does require some piece of fixed gear to lower from but not necassarily a sling. It's also quicker to rig than doing the same thing with the rope and a rap device. I tend to just clean with it hanging from my tie in point. I also keep the nut tool attached to that and can clip a piece to be cleaned to it as well to avoid droppage.

I guess if you wanted to get really creative you could lower out from a horizontally placed hook and do the same trick though I suppose with a hook you could probably just flick it with the lowerout cord to set it free. I used to do variations on both of these tricks in a former life as a rappelling window washer. The lower you got on your drop the easier it was to swing over and get other rows of windows that weren't directly below your anchor. Up high is was tough so a little creativity in hooking and tensioning sideways went a long ways in possibly saving you from having to bump your anchor over just a few feet. That savings in time adds up on a buidling you might be washing for a week.

Sometimes I succeed. Sometimes I fail. Sometimes I am too lazy to do either.
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Offline mhudon

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Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« Reply #66 on: December 06, 2011, 03:47:03 pm »
Thanks, I like that fifi hook idea!

Offline Mike.

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Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« Reply #67 on: December 06, 2011, 04:39:45 pm »
Like that tip.


Good work there, Mark.

BTW, your rant about heads is a good one, worth its own thread IMO. I don't agree with every nuance of your post but absolutely agree that heads are (should be) a tool of last resort.

Cheers...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline lambone

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Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« Reply #68 on: December 09, 2011, 11:48:04 am »
Looks like you replaced a couple bolts Mark! Did you get that really bad lead bolt with the broken hanger way up on the PO? I think it was on that pitch with the long aluminum rivet ladder.

Offline mhudon

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Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« Reply #69 on: December 09, 2011, 12:42:44 pm »
We pulled two redundant bolts and replaced one existing bolt. On top of the second pitch we drilled a 3/8 bolt out to the left and pulled that 1/4 incher lower down.

The bolt you mention, Matt, didn't seem too bad and we would have removed the broken hanger but we didn't have an adjustable wrench. I couldn't see the point of pulling it only to drill another hole for another 1/4 incher and it was so close to the anchor that a 3/8 inchers would have been excessive. Are hangers for 1/4 inch bolts still available?

There were four 3/8 bolts and two old 1/4 bolts at the anchor above the aluminum rivets. We took out and filled the hole of one of the 1/4 inchers and then left a heavy wire hanger on one of the 3/8 since it had no hanger and the threads were bungded up. The four 3/8 bolts provided a good anchor and set-up for ledges, the 1/4 inch bolts were interspersed with the 3/8 inchers so they were effectively useless. I've been removing any bolt I come across that fits that description. On a couple of anchors, there were plenty of 3/8 bolts and then rivets and 1/4 inchers off to the sides for ledges, I don't take those out.
« Last Edit: December 10, 2011, 10:49:38 am by mhudon »