Author Topic: NEW DAWN  (Read 4425 times)

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Offline Didder

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NEW DAWN
« on: September 28, 2011, 09:53:49 am »
Steve and I had an awesome climb up this classic route last week. It was amazing to only have a few other parties on the whole right side. Here is the video from our climb... Enjoy!

https://vimeo.com/45400901
« Last Edit: July 08, 2012, 02:44:48 pm by Didder »

Offline mhudon

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2011, 10:09:59 am »
Did my poster help?

Offline Didder

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2011, 10:16:59 am »
The poster is awesome!!! Totally kept me shirking all work responsibilities the entire week before the climb.... It holds an even higher status on the wall now that we have climbed the route. Everyone who comes in the office is floored when I show it to them.... You must be getting super psyched for SS/ PO

Offline Raaf

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #3 on: September 28, 2011, 11:05:00 am »
Special footage at 13:45. . . . . don't see that every day.

Offline mhudon

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2011, 12:17:54 pm »
Oh yeah, I can hardly sleep at night I'm so excited. I'm like a kid in the week before Christmas.

So what's the next route? I'll make sure to get good shots of it so that I can make up a good pano.

Offline Mike.

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #5 on: September 28, 2011, 01:52:25 pm »
Hats off to another fine performance, B. I'll ck out the vid later. Cheers...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2011, 11:23:17 pm »
jumpity jump jump!!!


sweet!!!

skully

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #7 on: September 30, 2011, 08:41:07 pm »
Cool beans, Didder. I know that route, too.  Good job, man.
It's a big piece of Stone. Full value.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #8 on: September 30, 2011, 09:50:45 pm »
just rewatched the part I couldn't earlier and I'm diggin it even more so...


Quote
I see you guys

hah!


the rain and waterfalls was wild too

Offline Mike.

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #9 on: October 01, 2011, 10:28:52 am »
Nice vid, B-Diddy. You guys make it look easy.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mhudon

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #10 on: October 01, 2011, 11:05:45 am »
Those moments in the vid where Brant looks at the camera and goes "El Cap-Yeah" or "Yeah Baby" or something like that and he's smiling big time, those moments sent chills up my spine, they just conveyed the joy of being on El Cap so well to me.

Offline Habanero

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #11 on: October 06, 2011, 02:26:46 pm »
Watch that video and you'll know what it is like to climb with Brant. Dude was born to climb the big stone. Always positive and a great wall parnter. It was fun to get off the beaten path and climb a route that required gardening and general excavation of dirt to open placements. Quite a differenct experience from mescalito.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #12 on: October 07, 2011, 11:39:29 pm »
how the rating from the third edition stacking up?  5.7 A2?


described as the same difficulty as mescalito?

Offline Didder

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #13 on: October 08, 2011, 09:26:56 am »
Overall the route was not nearly as sustained as Mescalito but did have some really memorable pitches. I thought this route rarely got done and now all of a sudden it will have seen like 5 ascents over a two month period... 4 more since ours... That upper section of El Cap is soo frickin' awesome... to be there and know that few people travel through there I thought was pretty cool. We did have to garden many placements even a #2 cam placement appeared out of nowhere after some big time excavation and several mouthfuls of dirt. Having 20 frogs pour out of a .75 placement down low and having the original bolts on the traverse pitches was pretty cool. It did have the feeling of being off the beaten path. If I had to choose for overall quality of climbing I would choose Mescalito but in terms of a higher adventure factor New Dawn would be my pick. Maybe 5.7 A2+?

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #14 on: October 09, 2011, 10:19:53 pm »
cool, thx.  yeah, it has a lot of appeal. Recent pics and TRs stoke the fires of ideas.


old WOEML discussion...

http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?topic=724.0


Offline Mike.

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #15 on: October 10, 2011, 01:21:24 pm »
Somebody really needs to re-establish the lower WEML pitches (pitch?) so the route can live again. New Dawn is a variation with a weird traverse back to the real line. The lower pitches of WEML are good and worth doing--ask Robbins. A sight better than the slab grovel to Lay Lady IMO once they're gardened out.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Habanero

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #16 on: October 11, 2011, 12:12:47 pm »

I was at the belay where ND joins WEML so I had some time to check out the WEML corner below. It looked like the real deal, steep and thin. From my perch it looked tough and not particularly blown out. I did see at least four large fixed hawks that reminded me of those I saw on Mescalito - i assume they are protection for the free attempt?

Offline Mike.

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #17 on: October 11, 2011, 04:45:12 pm »
There's a sweet wide pitch down there, too. Backclean central, great rock.

Don't mean to water down your TR, guys.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline Craig Peer

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #18 on: June 12, 2012, 09:39:21 am »
New Dawn is one of the coolest routes I've done - climbed it in July of 1982. Fun route !


Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #19 on: June 16, 2013, 07:43:35 pm »
I was just in the Alcove the other day, looking at how easy it would be to fix to the South Seas anchors, stick some cams where Space starts, and rap right down to where the bolts where chopped on the 1st pitch of WEML.

Git er done!

Offline Wes Goulding

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Re: NEW DAWN
« Reply #20 on: April 16, 2014, 07:20:29 pm »
Awesome video TR!

Congrats on your climb.

Sick

Thanks

Wes