Author Topic: I need a Silent Partner  (Read 5289 times)

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Offline mhudon

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I need a Silent Partner
« on: November 02, 2011, 12:46:58 pm »
Not a partner who is quiet but a partner who is truly silent!
I'm planning on soloing Iron Hawk next spring and need a Silent Partner as a belay device for the first few pitches up to El Cap tree and then last free pitches. Anyone have one they want to sell or know where I can get one cheap?
« Last Edit: November 02, 2011, 02:03:29 pm by mhudon »

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #1 on: November 02, 2011, 02:19:13 pm »
duct tape and ensolite should bring the noise down a bit, but when they're stuff in the haulbag like that the scuff scuff sound as you haul it is going to make noise. not much you can do there.  ;)


Offline johnmac

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #3 on: November 04, 2011, 05:24:15 pm »
Mark,

I can get these new at 35 percent off. Still have to pay some tax and postage but brand new. Email me if you want one.

Cheers

John

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #4 on: November 04, 2011, 09:08:18 pm »
Dude. That's a deal. I'd get All sorts of froggy on that.
So, Johnmac........If he don't, I would.  :-)

Offline mhudon

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2011, 11:32:08 pm »
Message sent, thanks, John!

Offline SLareau

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2012, 08:28:31 am »
Sorry to revive the dead thread but ....

Mark -- Did you get your SP yet? Thoughts on it? I've been reading a bunch of old threads on this forum and on the taco and was surprised how little consensus there is in the solo belay field. Sounds like everything has some quirks and most things can be made relatively safe if you understand the limitations of the system. Was considering either a solo-aid or a SP and I'm leaning towards the SP.  Side note, anyone know where a SP might be on sale?

Offline mhudon

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #7 on: March 03, 2012, 11:02:43 am »
Yes I did get one.

Although it's far bigger, heavier and less multipurpose than a Gri-gri the fact that it is made for soloing makes me want to use it.

The Gri-gri simply sucks as a self belay device for free climbing. On Iron Hawk, I wanted to free climb those two runout 5.9 pitches but now that it's closed, I'm looking forward to free climbing the pitch above Peanut Ledge on Zodiac when I climb Shortest Straw this spring.

Offline mhudon

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2012, 09:12:54 pm »
I can't wait to use mine on Lost in America this spring!

Offline cobbledik

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2012, 09:59:06 pm »
Are you planning on using to rap back to anchor for cleaning or using a separate device for that?
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline A5scott

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #10 on: March 18, 2012, 02:01:38 am »
I'm pretty quiet, I don't say much...  and I don't cost $250   :)

scott
Scott

Offline JC5123

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #11 on: April 04, 2012, 04:02:31 pm »
I'm pretty quiet, I don't say much...  and I don't cost $250   :)

scott

But do you bring your own beer? :-)
I don't think it's gonna hold....BUT WE'RE GONNA USE IT ANYWAY!

Offline mhudon

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #12 on: April 04, 2012, 06:58:35 pm »
The Gri-gri is the much better all in one tool for wall soloing than the Silent Partner. From my one pitch experience with it so far though, the Silent Partner excelles for a free climbing soloist. I can't imagine it would work to rap with it.

Offline A5scott

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #13 on: April 04, 2012, 09:55:13 pm »
But do you bring your own beer? :-)

I will totally bring my own beer! 

You can rap with the SP, but it's not recommended, since there isn't much friction.  It can be done, but carefully and slowly... though I never have done that, and don't plan to test it
Scott

Offline mhudon

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #14 on: April 04, 2012, 10:22:04 pm »
I like to dangle and swing around when I'm rapping down a pitch. With a Gri-gri it's pretty foolproof and a time of the climb I can really relax. I sometimes stop mid rap and eat a powerbar will taking in the surrounding surreal scene.

Offline del cross

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #15 on: April 05, 2012, 09:27:51 am »
Leading a pendulum or tension traverse solo, one where you really want both hands free to hang on and place gear after you complete the swing/traverse.

Compare and contrast: Gri-gri vs. Silent Partner.

Offline mhudon

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #16 on: April 05, 2012, 11:47:56 am »
With a Grigri it's easy peasy and a no brainer, with a Silent partner, I'd probably yard myself a bunch of slack, slap on the Grigri, and do the swing or tension traverse with that. I'd then get secure and go back to the Silent Partner.

Offline A5scott

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #17 on: April 05, 2012, 09:38:02 pm »
Hey Mark,  with the silent partner, would you tie knots as backups? or use the grigri as the backup?
Scott

Offline mhudon

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #18 on: April 05, 2012, 09:46:20 pm »
I'm going to go with knots for less cluster.

Offline slabbyd

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #19 on: April 06, 2012, 10:51:49 am »
I use an SP because

1) I trust it to always hold a fall.
2) with the right rope (10.2 and new 10.5 both work great)  and good rope management skills it feeds really, really smoothly.  Set it up and forget about it.

I also carry a Gri-gri for rapping and doing the occasional pendulum.  For rappelling a SP sucks.

It's always irked me that I'm carrying two separate belay devices as I try to make my systems as efficient as possible, but ultimately I've decide it's worth it. Hell, I also have an ATC buried in my haulbag for bailing.

* I run a single backup knot at a time with my ropes set up as a continuous loop.   If you keep the backup loop relatively long it works as a counterbalance to your rope-out resulting in two things 1) smooth feed and 2) no slack between you and the anchor.  I almost never need to tie or prusik the rope off mid-pitch to keep it from feeding out.

I clip the SP off to my sturdy belay loop with a single DMM Zodiac autolocker.  The biner is rated to 35kn and something like 14kn in crossload.  I use another one for the backup.  Set up like this the SP is align perpendicular to rock.  I always set the rope to run from the outside of the device (against the rock) down to the anchor.  This again has two convenient benefits.  1) You always know which side of the rope to clip and 2) you can traverse either way off the anchor without additional drag.  The SP is the only thing on my belay loop so it can move about freely. I've never had the biner crossload in a handful of whippers.

If you set it up like the manual reads the rope runs from left to right or right to left and the two things just described become problematic.

Off topic I guess....


Offline mhudon

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #20 on: April 06, 2012, 11:32:40 am »
Great tips, Slabby, thanks. Your first two points are why my SP might become my solo belay device of choice.

Offline slabbyd

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #21 on: April 06, 2012, 11:50:58 am »
I'm sure its been done before but a seperate thread on how peeps rig their solo systems sure would be interesting. Though that could result in too many photos of other dudes junk.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #22 on: April 06, 2012, 01:09:21 pm »
Though that could result in too many photos of other dudes junk.

You didn't need to sweeten the pot! but nowthatyoumentionit, grawwwr
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mhudon

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #23 on: April 06, 2012, 04:40:15 pm »
I'm Shocked!

Offline del cross

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #24 on: April 06, 2012, 04:47:08 pm »
With a Grigri it's easy peasy and a no brainer, with a Silent partner, I'd probably yard myself a bunch of slack, slap on the Grigri, and do the swing or tension traverse with that. I'd then get secure and go back to the Silent Partner.

Yes, that's it. Too bad the Silent Partner doesn't work well in this situation. I've wondered if it would make sense to use a leg-loop based autoblock, kind of like you might do for a scary rappel, in an SP pendo situation. But I've never tried it.


I clip the SP off to my sturdy belay loop with a single DMM Zodiac autolocker

Slabby, with just the one crab does the SP ever twist enough so that the rope could possibly get pinched or even work its way through the two big pins?

Offline mhudon

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #25 on: April 06, 2012, 05:28:01 pm »
Quote
with just the one crab does the SP ever twist enough so that the rope could possibly get pinched or even work its way through the two big pins?

Yeah, I want to hear the answer to that one.

Offline slabbyd

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #26 on: April 07, 2012, 02:26:40 pm »
Reasonable concern/criticism.   I added up 93-odd pitches in my head over the last three years and I think I've seen that occur twice (I think).  Both times at the anchor when the SP was clipped off and there was lots of slack rope moving around.  On lead if that occured you would notice immediately.  Maybe it doesn't because both sides of the rope are hanging straight down, as is the device.   Still though I've though of somehow shrinking that hole via rubber plugs or welded plates.  What do y'all think?  Am I going to die?  An extra biner wouldn't hurt and would add all of 5 seconds to each pitch.

FYI one thing I do with the SP is when I reach the anchor.

1) Pull extra slack through the SP and tie off the rope to the Powerpoint between the lower anchor and the SP.
2) Pull up the rest of the lead rope, flip the PP biner and tie off the lead rope at its end (with a 6' tail for a backup knot).
3) Flip the PP biner again and the midrope knot is now next to the gate.
4) Put myself on rappel with a Grigri
5) Now take the SP, unclip it from my harness and clip it into the PP biner
6) Now pull all the slack through the SP until it reaches the end of the rope (takes seconds and feeds really well)

Go do your thing

When I jug back up the lead line the very first thing I do is...

...reach up grab the SP and clip it to my harness.  On belay! 

Now I mess around with organizing, hauling etc, knowing that I'm always connected to the system in a very secure way.

Offline del cross

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #27 on: April 09, 2012, 10:31:14 am »
2 out of 93 is too high for me, I'll stick with two carabiners.


6) Now pull all the slack through the SP until it reaches the end of the rope (takes seconds and feeds really well

While this is nicer than removing/reinstalling the SP after each pitch I've always thought it would be adding unnecessary wear to the rope. The way the SP works the rope rubs against itself all the time on the drum and the last thing you want is for your rope to get any fuzzier than it has to. A fuzzy rope, especially if it isn't a skinny one, can be frustrating as hell with a Silent Partner. But maybe I'm wrong about it adding significant wear.

This brings up another question: Thinner is better for ropes with the Silent Partner but on walls the conventional wisdom is to go with a beefy cord. Now is that really wisdom or paranoia? Are you truely adding a lot of risk if you solo a wall with a thinner cord?

Or to put it another way, how thin of a lead rope are you comfortable with on a wall solo?

Offline JC5123

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Re: I need a Silent Partner
« Reply #28 on: April 09, 2012, 11:59:38 am »
Been running 10.2 for years. I think it's a good tradeoff. I save a little weight, and it runs the SP well. But definitely more durable for wall use. Now for ice and alpine, I'm running a 9.3, which is as thin as I go.
I don't think it's gonna hold....BUT WE'RE GONNA USE IT ANYWAY!