Author Topic: Trip Report ? Los Banditos 5.10 A1 ? Machete Ridge - Pinnacles  (Read 1507 times)

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Offline cobbledik

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Trip Report ? Los Banditos 5.10 A1 ? Machete Ridge - Pinnacles
« on: January 20, 2012, 10:50:46 am »
Trip Report ? Los Banditos 5.10 A1 ? Machete Ridge - Pinnacles National Monument <- Hey! Click Me!

Not really a big wall route, not really an aid route, but enough to say "Hey look at me! read my TR!"

A great route that's not yet in the guidebook for the West Side of Pinnacles National Monument. The first two pitches are amazing, the last two are good for reaching the summit, but it might be a better climbing day to rap from the top of pitch two then move left and climb Rock Around the Clock.

excerpt from the trip report:
"I am an aid climber. I am a trad climber. I am a sport climber. I am a boulderer? well, when I have to be. What I tend not to be is more than one in a single pitch. Phrases like ?boulder move into crux then gain the anchor?, ?Bring additional pro to protect the bolts?, or ?mandatory free? make me turn the page and find a new route. As much as I don?t want to admit it, I want to turn off when I climb, not think, not be there. Get to the anchors and watch the analog gopro memory of what just did; figure out if I liked it after the climbing?s done.
    This was real free climbing after 8 bolts of real bolt laddering. The fall would be perfect, mosty into space with only enough scraping to make it worth it. Even if a bolt blew, there?d be another perfect bolt just feet below it; all crux free sections should be protected by more-than-vertical bolt ladders. I took another breath, released the fifi and went for it again. A few more moves this time and I found myself liebacking a triangle of rock with my right hand in order to step my right foot up. I could see the moves: step over, stem left foot, reach through left hand for? for? I made a grunt that masked my desire to squeal in fear and downclimbed back to the ladder."
« Last Edit: January 20, 2012, 08:17:06 pm by cobbledik »
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Trip Report ? Los Banditos 5.10 A1 ? Machete Ridge - Pinnacles
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2012, 06:52:23 pm »
Kev, your link is broke.  :(

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Trip Report ? Los Banditos 5.10 A1 ? Machete Ridge - Pinnacles
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2012, 08:17:55 pm »
Thanks, fixed it!

Read away.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Jack Herer

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Re: Trip Report ? Los Banditos 5.10 A1 ? Machete Ridge - Pinnacles
« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2012, 04:03:11 pm »
Nice, I like that kinda stuff, looks fun! Wish I was closer to the Pinnacles looks like a fun choss playground =)

skully

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Re: Trip Report ? Los Banditos 5.10 A1 ? Machete Ridge - Pinnacles
« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2012, 07:00:31 pm »
Yeah, those Mudncrud guys. Pinnacles. It's a place, that's sure.