Author Topic: Taking a "day off"  (Read 2052 times)

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Offline mungeclimber

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Taking a "day off"
« on: February 15, 2012, 05:10:17 pm »
Mike. wrote "Take a day off if you can. Well past midway is mentally satisfying."


This seems so hard to do, unless you have all kinds of time and food and water.


But the clear value of something like that seems so obvious as I read it.


Offline cobbledik

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #1 on: February 15, 2012, 05:32:11 pm »
I wish I didn't have a job to get back to every Monday (or tuesday or wednesday depending on how "sick" I felt the week before when I called in).

Might make everything feel like less of a ticking time bomb.

I'd love to do a 1 pitch a day grade VI. Oh the dirtbagging joy.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #2 on: February 15, 2012, 08:59:25 pm »
I highly recommend it.

On Iron Hawk this spring, I'm planning on 10 days on the route. I'm making the most of linking pitches, leading two and hauling one and climbing a one pitch day. Aside from climbing the route, I like to clean it up by removing all tat, heads I avoided using, useless bolts and cleaning up the anchors. A casual climbing pace allows me to have time for those activities.

I usually plan a full two weeks including the weekends on both ends and the first Friday. That gives me 17 days total and causes me to miss only 8 days of work (we don't work on Fridays). It takes me 1.5 days to drive down, 1.5 days to drive back, I always spend the night on top and spend the next day getting down and then another day in the Valley relaxing. That leaves me with 12 days for the climb. When I go down there I get right on my route, I have everything ready to go including my water bottles filled. I don't hang out in the Valley beforehand if the weather is good. 12 days is usually plenty to fix, hump and go if I'm soloing.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #3 on: February 15, 2012, 09:28:04 pm »
I had brought a butterknife along on Wet Denim but every waking moment was rush rush rush and so I never had a chance to pull it out and clean the deadheads I came across. Even worse, I accidentally left the the BK and Funkness AND nut tool with my rack at the upper belay when I cleaned the pitch off of Ahwanee Ledge and so ended up leaving two of my heads fixed. Oh time, you march on relentlessly.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #4 on: February 15, 2012, 09:38:58 pm »
On June 1st the days are 15.5 hours long. I try to start climbing by 9 and finish no later than 6. That gives me 9 hours to lead and haul two pitches, 4.5 hours each. So far, I'm not doing routes that are so hard that it takes me more that 3 hours to lead a pitch. Even then, I can clean them pretty quickly. I end up with lots of time to goof off!

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #5 on: February 15, 2012, 09:55:27 pm »
This life you speak of might as well be made of candy cane trees and cotton candy clouds. It sounds wonderful. (not sarcasm, though it sounds like sarcasm, it's not)
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline lambone

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #6 on: February 15, 2012, 09:57:11 pm »
Took a day off on the Ishland in the Sky on South Seas. Was great and much needed as we were worked. We got pretty bored about halfway through the day and started doing crazy antics hoping the attract the attention of tourons in the meadow...

The thing is you don't drink or eat a whole lot when you are just hanging out. Except for beer that is...

So yeah... plan to bring extra beer.
« Last Edit: February 15, 2012, 10:06:08 pm by lambone »

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2012, 10:29:39 pm »
sage advice, that, bringing extra beer.

Offline Mike.

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #8 on: February 15, 2012, 10:54:23 pm »
You'll pretty much have extra of everything on the bigger routes, so working in a day off is not a real stretch. ("Extra beer" though is a new one on me...I'm down to the hard booze after a week.) Something I've threatened but never done is doing some free TRing on a day off. Or at least some wild penjis.

Mark, you run a tight ship! The numbers apparently add up to...summit : )

Cobblebro, I think a butterknife should be on the lead and clean to get the most use from it. A couple of times I've wished I had it on lead, forced to stand on cable strands or whatever hinky solution to get past it. As if the racks aren't big enough...
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #9 on: February 16, 2012, 09:00:21 am »
Yes, I do have a good life. When Peggy and I were starting the Coffee Co. we didn't have enough work to work Fridays. As the Co. grew we realized that having 3 day weekends was pretty nice so we just worked it so that we don't work Fridays. I do come in every now and then on a Friday but one of the proudest achievements of my life so far is that I haven't worked a Friday in the last 20 years! I figure that I've been 20% retired for the last 20 years!

Yeah, I'm a weenie when it comes to planning, but, so far, it's worked!

Offline lambone

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #10 on: February 16, 2012, 11:32:07 am »
Oh yeah, extra coffee too. From Mark of course... ;)

Offline mhudon

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #11 on: February 16, 2012, 12:23:54 pm »
It's a must!

A pound will last me 10 days and then I'll have some for my porters on top if they need any.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2012, 12:27:20 pm by mhudon »

Offline Beautiful_Corn

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #12 on: February 17, 2012, 10:46:50 am »
You guys are my heroes.  This sort of approach to big-walling appeals to me so much.  When it's finally time for my first wall I hope I can cruise it in style like you do.

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #13 on: March 10, 2012, 07:25:51 pm »
I've taken days off, but not by choice. Weather has largely dominated my choices. It would be amazingly rewarding to groove by choice.
Savor the flavor.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #14 on: March 10, 2012, 07:56:18 pm »
Was planning on heading up to fix pitches today and woke up with a tailbone screaming in pain when I step up. Looks like a rest day before anything even starts.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline A5scott

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #15 on: March 10, 2012, 08:44:34 pm »
great thread... I'd love to take an off day on lady lay ledge and watch all the action on the SE face.  I'm smiling just reading this tread


Scott

skully

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #16 on: March 10, 2012, 10:13:17 pm »
Chillin' time up high is to be savored...nuff said?
Dig it.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #17 on: March 11, 2012, 10:46:33 am »
Even I'd you don't take the whole day off, going out and fixing a pitch and maybe clean it or not is pretty nice. I'm planning on two one pitch days on LIA this spring.

Offline Gagner

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Re: Taking a "day off"
« Reply #18 on: March 11, 2012, 12:47:29 pm »
Schneider and I took a day off (kind of) on the Bismark when we did Mescalito in 1980.  That is such a great ledge, and we had extra beer and "supplies", so we just hung out and at some point we fixed the pitch off the ledge as our only exercise that day.  Other than that, the only days I've taken off, as others have mentioned, were due to forced storm days....

Paul