Author Topic: purpose  (Read 612 times)

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Offline Erik Sloan

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« on: February 21, 2012, 10:29:06 am »
I'll re-work that intro letter soon, but till then: exists to bring the bigwalls back to the people. Anyone who climbs a route can send in a topo, and that topo will be available for free(check out Paul Gagner's recent New Dawn topo. and Holly Beck's 2011 Virginia updates, woot!).Forever.

In a conversation in '09 w/ Chris Mac, while collaborating on his 3rd edition of STBW, I was really hammering Chris on putting many more routes in our book. He didn't want to commit to anything(and subsequently did the book with Spaz), but offered, 'Traditionally guidebook authors have gotten to decide which topos are available and which are not.'

That may have been the case before. But it doesn't really work, not on public land at least.

Public installations, basically any route that has a fixed anchor, should be publicly disclosed.

Afroman is an example of just such an outrageous route! If you haven't climbed it, and you're ready for anything East of South Face you are seriously missing out(only a handful of lead bolts and endless overhanging splitters!). Fro aka Jeff Hornibrook, one of the FAist, has worked for 20 years in the park and in the past had given out topos to a few friends. The route saw a little heyday in '95-'98 with maybe 5-10 ascents and then once those employees who were close with Fro moved on, and Fro settled more in Groveland with his family, the route faded into obscurity.

Spring on!