Author Topic: Glass Menagerie recommended rack?  (Read 2160 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Beautiful_Corn

  • A1 fiend
  • **
  • Posts: 47
    • View Profile
Glass Menagerie recommended rack?
« on: March 01, 2012, 12:02:32 pm »
I've set a goal for myself of making an attempt on Glass Menagerie this summer so I've been picking up bits of gear here and there to try to fill out my rack.  I'm not a terribly strong free climber so I expect I'll be aiding almost all of it.

Here's my hodge-podge of a rack:

-Full set of Rock Empire Durango Cams - 8 total
-BD Camalots .3-2 (doubles in .4, .5, and 1) - 8 total
-Metolius TCU 0 and 1 - 2 total
-Full set of Metolius Master Cams - 8 total
-1 orange Alien
-Metolius Hexes 5-10 - 6 total
-BD stoppers 4-13
-Rock Empire Alu-nuts set
-DMM 00 Wall Nut
-Tricams: pink, red, brown

I only have a couple of pieces larger than a #2 Camalot.  Will I need much larger stuff?  Also, I assume I'll probably need to get more of the really tiny cams and nuts.  Maybe some ball nuts.  Is that correct?

I know I definitely will get a hook or two since there's apparently at least one mandatory hook move on GM.  I hear some cam hooks can't hurt, either.

Any thoughts or advice?
« Last Edit: March 01, 2012, 01:02:56 pm by Beautiful_Corn »

Offline Beautiful_Corn

  • A1 fiend
  • **
  • Posts: 47
    • View Profile
Re: Glass Menagerie recommended rack?
« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2012, 01:40:03 pm »
Since many of you have most of your experience based around Yosemite, I would also welcome general suggestions for C1/C2 range climbs there since that's a long term goal for me for another summer.

Offline A5scott

  • A1 fiend
  • **
  • Posts: 29
    • View Profile
Re: Glass Menagerie recommended rack?
« Reply #2 on: March 01, 2012, 01:49:12 pm »
I haven't been on the glass, but the first pitch if i remember seems pretty thin... especially the direct start.

yeah get some hooks, bd talon, cam hooks, some heads just in case, couple rurps, couple pins just in case.  up to bd camalot #4 and extra #1 and #2

talk to the guys at the mountain shop in town. get the guide book if you haven't.  Have you tried Invisible Airwaves?  The first pitch is fun, second pitch is thin, third pitch is fixed/hooks

Cornflake crack should be  a good clean aid, as well as the womb.

if you havent aided much, I would recommend at least starting with first pitch invisible airwaves.
« Last Edit: March 01, 2012, 01:50:55 pm by A5scott »
Scott

Offline cobbledik

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 690
    • View Profile
    • Fail Falling
Re: Glass Menagerie recommended rack?
« Reply #3 on: March 01, 2012, 01:51:52 pm »
You're talking about GM on Looking Glass right?


I was there this christmas and would say that what works there, works here. I was on Scott Memorial Route which is spiting distance from GM.

except, circle heads make more sense inf the eyebrows there than single stem heads, although, it really felt like a lot of the circle head placements could have yielded good hook placements.
For Looking Glass, you could do with borrowing a few more tricams for the eyebrows as well. Offset cams worked well in the eyebrows as well. Also cam hooks. I used my cam hooks a lot.

Something missing from your rack no matter where you are would be offset micronuts. EEEESential. DMM and BDel make good ones.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Beautiful_Corn

  • A1 fiend
  • **
  • Posts: 47
    • View Profile
Re: Glass Menagerie recommended rack?
« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2012, 02:25:24 pm »
Yes, GM at Looking Glass.  I'll try to get a few more cams in the slightly large-ish sizes to round things out but focus on the thin stuff.  Scott, thanks for the tip about p1 of Invisible Airwaves.  I'll put it on the list to try it first.  Kevin, does BD make offset nuts?  I knew DMM did but I was not aware of a BD version.

Thanks, everyone, for pointing me in the right direction.  The weather's been so nice lately but between concerts and a music teacher convention I haven't had much time to get out there and climb.  I'm going stir crazy!

---Taylor

Offline SLareau

  • A1 fiend
  • **
  • Posts: 29
    • View Profile
Re: Glass Menagerie recommended rack?
« Reply #5 on: March 01, 2012, 03:02:03 pm »
You will definitely want some hooks.  I would bring at least two hooks, a talon and a BD grappling/cliffhanger which should get you through most anything you'll encounter on GM.  I've made a few successive hook movements on the first pitch. Cam hooks are fun/terrifying but not 100%-you-will-not-send-without-them for GM.  You'll also want some cams bigger than a #2 BD camalot. Can't remember exactly but you'll definitely want through #4, maybe a #5. 

BD makes offset micro nuts. You can find them on sale a little more frequently than the DMM HBs. There's a review on outdoorgearlab if you're curious. The new aid-sized tricams are cool too. My partner (scotto) placed the white one on P1 of invisible airwaves. Had to be super careful removing that small sucker.

Best of luck.

Offline cobbledik

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 690
    • View Profile
    • Fail Falling
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Beautiful_Corn

  • A1 fiend
  • **
  • Posts: 47
    • View Profile
Re: Glass Menagerie recommended rack?
« Reply #7 on: March 02, 2012, 04:39:43 am »
Thanks for the information, guys.

Offline Tito

  • Gumby
  • *
  • Posts: 22
    • View Profile
Re: Glass Menagerie recommended rack?
« Reply #8 on: March 02, 2012, 05:42:26 am »
One good resource for a GM rack is
http://www.southeastclimbing.com/routes/routes_north_carolina.htm#glass_m
My buddy Chris Brown wrote this up years ago and it is still valid (www.highexposures.com).

I would fill out your TCU rack and have doubles of 00 and 0 (or similiar), especially if you are planning to take it to the top.  Cam hooks are a must (for the open book pitch and for the alternate traverse, pitch 2, to the hanging belay below open book pitch) as are a talon.  Yes, you do need two #4 camalots for the offwidth pitches above the roof, and we used 4 # 1's on the final hand crack (it was pouring  rain on us and the crack was filled with water).   I saw a lot of parties that had to bail because they did not have offsets and enough small cams for the pitch leading up to the roof.   At least one set of some kind of brass offset is necessary.

Iron and heads are NOT neccessary on GM.  There is a dead rurp nest near the end of roof pitch traverse (much longer than you might expect),  all of the cables are frayed or gone.  You can however tension off of the fixed piton just prior to the rurp mess around the corner to a crack near the belay instead of placing yet another rurp and adding to the damage/mess.

Other beta:  wait until after 10 AM in the summer to climb that way you will be in the shade.  Once above the roof though, there is no hiding from the sun, until late afternoon.  I prefer to jug up to just below the roof rather than the pitch below that, I've done both and if you fix to the lower belay your rope will rub on some small  sharp knobs where it gets slabby just below the anchors and there is nothing you can do about it.  I've done the free hanging jug up to there enough to know that I'm not doing it again, I'll just be prepared to haul to below the roof and bivy there and do the route in a long push.

One other note, there is a horizontal traverse rated A1 in the old guidebook (I think) from the offwidth above the roof to another vertical offwidth.   There is a sunbleached, brittle, cable broken mess in at the beginning of this horizontal traverse for a tension traverse.  After a cursory inspection I decided not to use it (I had my sights on the little bit of shade in the next corner, and wasn't prepared to sweat it out fixing this mess).  Instead I ended up taking a whip onto a #1 BD nut in the horizontal crack (less than ideal) when a not quite right size TCU blew on me.  Unfortunately, the piece I needed was way below me somewhere in the offwidth.  I kind of question the A1 rating, whatever,  I just tensioned over the vertical crack and free'd it up to the belay spot above the horizontal crack.  Watch your natural belay here, the offwidth above is a drainage for the forest up top which gets regualr afternoon showers in the summer.  The crack here is gritty due to the runoff.
« Last Edit: March 02, 2012, 06:51:39 am by Tito »

Offline csproul

  • A2 Flyer
  • ***
  • Posts: 77
    • View Profile
Re: Glass Menagerie recommended rack?
« Reply #9 on: March 02, 2012, 09:07:13 am »
Did this last year. We took took 2-3 cams up to #4 and a couple set of DB nuts, including some micros, hooks and cam-hooks. There is a pitch that requires multiple 4's and 5's. I ended up leapfrogging cams and leaving myself with little/no protection, I'd take at least 2 of each if I did it again. There were definitely a couple mandatory hook moves and cam hooks were nice too. We started one afternoon and fixed to the top of pitch 4 (only ends up being 1 full rope to the ground) and then came down for the night. In the morning we jugged and climbed the rest of it. This schedule worked pretty well since i had/have very little aid experience. You can aid every bit of this climb without a free move if you want.