Author Topic: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book  (Read 4363 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Erik Sloan

  • Purveyor of Fine Topos
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 315
  • Yosemitebigwall.com
    • View Profile
new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« on: March 12, 2012, 06:45:28 pm »
Yo gang, as most of you know I"ve been slowing chipping away at my new book project. The premise of this book is to get all of the bigwall route topos that you want to look at in one place. The limitation is there are over 500 bigwall routes in Yosemite so many will have to be left out. For me, it is important that the next bigwall book contain every route on El Cap, Half Dome, Washington Column, Leaning Tower--as these are the most climbed formations and the routes that you hear about and want to peruse while kicking back on the sofa. After that, my goal is to include a route or a few routes from each formation that is regularly climbed, and provide a very detailed color photo of the cliff with the other route lines drawn in--so you will know exactly where the other routes go and that you can get those more obscure topos online at yosemitebigwall.com. B.O.L.T. wall, for example, is probably not worth taking up space in a Select book; maybe down the road we could publish a Yo bigwall bible that included everything.

So here is a running list of the routes that I was thinking of including. Post up your favorite routes that I've missed:

Ribbon Falls:
Gold Wall
Laughing at the Void
Reason Beyond Insanity
Solar Powered Arete

El Cap: every route

Camp 4 Wall:

Good Ol Boy
Comedy of Terrors

Falls Wall:
Wheel of Torture
Via Sin Aqua
Misty Wall
Dante?s Inferno

Lost Arrow:
Lost Arrow Direct

The Rhombus:

The Crucible

Arches Wall:
Bulging Puke
Harding Buttress

Washington Column: every route

Watkins:
South Face
Tenayas Terror
Prism

Quarter Dome:
Pegasus

Half Dome: every route

Porcelain Wall:
Direct Northwest Face
Strange World

Liberty Cap:
Scarface
West Buttress
Patriot Act
Southwest Face

Panarama Wall:
Bananarama

Nine O Clock Wall:
Ice Age

Sentinel:
Gobi Wall
Psychedelic Shack
West Face

Higher Cathedral Spire:
Reg Northwest Face
Higher Aspirations

Lower Cathedral Spire:
Operation Bravo

Higher Cathedral Rock:
Renaissance Wall
East Face
Learning to Crawl
Wild Apes
North Seas

Middle Cathedral:
Mother Earth

Lower Cathedral Rock:
The New Northface

Leaning Tower: every route

Fifi:


I look forward to hearing your suggestions.

cheers,
erik
yosemitebigwall.com


« Last Edit: June 21, 2012, 06:18:33 pm by nanook »

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #1 on: March 12, 2012, 07:13:23 pm »
Big Wall Bible or Big Wall Obscura book is what I want to see. But that's just me.

Offline cobbledik

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 690
    • View Profile
    • Fail Falling
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2012, 08:16:51 pm »
Always salivated over the following routes

Hole in the sky

Toxic Waste Dump

Camp 4 Terror


And it would be a shame to leave out Scarface and Patriot Act on Liberty Cap. They both look amazing and are on my hit list for this year.

Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Erik Sloan

  • Purveyor of Fine Topos
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 315
  • Yosemitebigwall.com
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #3 on: March 12, 2012, 09:19:32 pm »
Cool thoughts, keep it comin.

Munge--I'm definitely in for the bible. But we gotta start somewhere.

Cobble--Right on, definitely gotta get the Camp 4 wall in there. I"ve been stoked on the Terror too, though there are some other routes up there that look good too.....we should talk.

Some bros put up a route on Rhombus that they thought was worthy: The Crucible circa 2005 I think: Coiler, Trundlesbee and Teabag. My buddy saw Klaus when he got down from Toxic and he reported him saying, 'that is the dirtiest/loosest shitfest in the Valley, if people didn't know I went up there I'd claim I never climbed it'. But hey, if you like that stuff, and you want a warm up grovelfest Saddam Hussein is pretty accessible and definitely full on munge.

My buddies climbed Hole in the Head next to Hole in the Sky and said that whole area was just a maze of grass filled cracks--impossible to tell what had or had not been climbed before, but never too difficult if you don't mind the cleaning. Same bro Jeff climbed Reason Beyond Insanity with me which we both thought was super quality and clean--and you get that badass roof.

Different strokes for different folks. It's all good! Oh yeah, gotta ask Dan about Bananarama on the Panarama wall.

Keep it comin!

Offline Erik Sloan

  • Purveyor of Fine Topos
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 315
  • Yosemitebigwall.com
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #4 on: March 13, 2012, 09:05:22 am »
Here's the complete list for the Select book so far. Munge-what routes you thinkin for more obscura?

Ribbon Falls:
Gold Wall
Laughing at the Void
Reason Beyond Insanity
Solar Powered Arete

El Cap:
West Face
Mr. Midwest
Realm of the Flying Monkeys
Allied Forces
Mirage
Lurking Fear
Lost World/Squeeze Play
Hole World
West Buttress
Octopussy
Never Never Land
Aquarian
Winds of Change
Wings of Steel
Horse Chute/Horse Play
Dihedral
Cosmos
Excalibur
Bermuda Dunes
Heart
Pacemaker
Golden Gate
El Corazon
Verano Magico
Son of Heart
Sunkist
Jolly Roger
Magic Mushroom
Shield
Dorn Direct
False Shield
Turning Point
Muir
Salathe
Mediterraneo
Grape Race
Nose
Central Scrutinizer
Real Nose
Tribal Rite
Genesis
New Dawn
Reticent
Maryrs Brigade
Disorderly Conduct
Mescalito
Adrift
Hockey Night in Canada
Space
South Seas
Atlantis
Block Party
Tempest
Pacific Ocean
Every Man for Himself
Sea of Dreams
Sea Horse
Ring of Fire
North America
El Nino
Nightmare on California Street
Wyoming Sheep Ranch
Heartland
New Jersey Turnpike
Atlantic Ocean
Iron Hawk
Highway to Hell
Native Son
Scorched Earth
Aurora
Sticky Rice
Tangerine Trip
Virginia
Lost in America
Ned and Ted?s Excellent Adventure
Kaos
Zenyatta Mondatta
Abstract Expressionist
Shortest Straw
Zodiac
Slackers Toil
Surgeon General
Lunar Eclipse
Born Under a Bad Sign
Plastic Surgery Disaster
Bad Seed
Bad to the Bone
The Secret Passage
Eagle?s Way
The Prophet
On the Waterfront
High Plains Dripper
Pressure Cooker
Get Whacked
Waterfall Route
Lost in Translation
Chinese Water Torture
Dark Star
Snake
East Buttress


Camp 4 Wall:
Camp 4 Terror
Comedy of Folly

Falls Wall:
Wheel of Torture
Misty Wall
Dante?s Inferno

Lost Arrow:
Lost Arrow Direct

Rhombus Wall:
The Crucible

Arches Wall:
Bulging Puke
Harding Buttress

Washington Column:
South Central
Southern Man
South Face
Skull Queen
Re-animator
Prow
Ten Days After
Crosstown Traffic
Electric Ladyland
Endangered Species
Afroman
Astroman
Horny-Johnson
Mideast Crisis
Saddam Hussein
Great Slab Route
Tora Bora

Watkins:
South Face
Prism

Quarter Dome:
Pegasus

Half Dome:
Regular NW
Blue Shift
Arcturas
Same As It Never Was
Direct NW
Queen of Spades
Shadows
The Vodka Putsch
Tis-sa-ack
Kali Yuga
Zenith
White Room
Big Chill
Promised Land
Arctic Sea
Bushido
Jet Stream
Solitary Confinement
White Trash Vacation

Porcelain Wall:
Direct Northwest Face
Strange World

Liberty Cap:
SW Face
Patriot Act
West Buttress
Scarface

Panorama  Wall:
Bananarama

Nine O Clock Wall:
Ice Age

Sentinel:
West Face
Gobi Wall

Higher Cathedral Spire:
Reg Northwest Face
Higher Aspirations

Lower Cathedral Spire:
Operation Bravo

Higher Cathedral Rock:
Renaissance Wall
East Face
Learning to Crawl

Wall of Ages:
Age of Exploration

Leaning Tower:
Disco Strangler
Jesus Built My Hotrod
Wet Denin Daydream
West Face
Heading for Oblivion
Roulette


Fifi:




« Last Edit: March 16, 2012, 09:34:47 am by nanook »

Offline cobbledik

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 690
    • View Profile
    • Fail Falling
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #5 on: March 13, 2012, 10:44:21 am »
What? no Ring of Fire? ;-P

Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline jake

  • A2 Flyer
  • ***
  • Posts: 59
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #6 on: March 13, 2012, 12:26:58 pm »
More on El Cap... Gerberding aldude route near realm of monkeys, Timbuctoo left or something, direct finish off of chicken head, Sea Horse, Tividar route next to Native son/iron hawk, Sticky Rice, Slackers Toil, Darkstar, maybe some Afganistan Route that bridwell did...

Half Dome: Blue Shift, Psychedlic Shack, Long Walk, Repo Man, White Trash Vacation, Solitary Confinement, the Traverse.
« Last Edit: March 13, 2012, 12:46:43 pm by jake »

Offline johnmac

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 486
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2012, 12:39:24 pm »
Looks pretty extensive for a "select book" to me!

Offline Erik Sloan

  • Purveyor of Fine Topos
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 315
  • Yosemitebigwall.com
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2012, 01:54:54 pm »
Yeah Jake Gerby's route by Mirage was called Allied Forces....keep it comin!

Offline Erik Sloan

  • Purveyor of Fine Topos
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 315
  • Yosemitebigwall.com
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #9 on: March 13, 2012, 02:01:52 pm »
Oh yeah, Ring of Fire's in there for sure.

I always get the Seahorse thing confused: is that the route by the NA? or by the Muir? Which is the other of those two?

Highway to Hell is the route by Native Son/Iron Hawk.

thanks,
e

Offline *Mucci*

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 422
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #10 on: March 13, 2012, 02:03:49 pm »
Firefall wall-Rasmussen
Broderick-Rasmusssen/gerby
supernova-Mcneely/wright
Forbidden wall-Harding/1 other route? Over a hiker trail
hourglass wall-EK

Maybe not all meant for the book..

 Firefall looks badass.

Offline Erik Sloan

  • Purveyor of Fine Topos
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 315
  • Yosemitebigwall.com
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #11 on: March 13, 2012, 02:41:07 pm »
Thanks Mucci, awesome suggestions.

I've never heard of anyone repeating one of the routes, but I definitely think we should have a detailed color picture in the book with all the lines drawn in for each of those formations, and the topos available at yosemitebigwall.com.

I was psyched on climbing the Forbidden wall but after going up and scoping it, and talking with some of the old timers here who worked the rescue when a natural rockfall occurred there that killed a bunch of hikers I decided that that is one cliff that is a little too close to the trail. With so many killer obscure walls it seems like we'd be giving climbing a bad name to climb right above one of the Yosemite's most popular hiking trails.
I talked to Bosque who was on the FA of Forbidden with Harding and he agreed with me, though times can always change and it might become a more viable option in the future.

gold!
e

Offline cobbledik

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 690
    • View Profile
    • Fail Falling
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #12 on: March 13, 2012, 04:04:58 pm »
Is there even a topo for Ring of Fire? I was under the impression that the FA's refused to release one because (fill in your own pet reason here).

either Smith or Jensen was quoted somewhere as saying, here's where it starts and then just go up, no topo needed. (or something close to that)
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Erik Sloan

  • Purveyor of Fine Topos
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 315
  • Yosemitebigwall.com
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #13 on: March 13, 2012, 04:25:19 pm »
Nah, I got the ROF topo around here somewhere.....give me a minute.

Offline *Mucci*

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 422
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #14 on: March 13, 2012, 04:38:48 pm »
Camp 4 terror was done free with variations I believe by Lucho in the mid 2000's

Camp 4 terrorist V 5.12R something.

*Shudder*

Seems like there was another route up there.


Offline cobbledik

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 690
    • View Profile
    • Fail Falling
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #15 on: March 13, 2012, 06:06:54 pm »
Had to go back to my Meyer/Reid Yosemite guide for that.

Camp 4 Terror 5.8 A4 (Bob Kamps & Dave Rearick 7/60)
Comedy of Folly 5.9 A4 (Rik Rieder 1973)

To tell the truth, Comedy of Folly looks like a much more enjoyable line from far away and by photo, if only to avoid traversing for 80% of the route.



Lucho's story about freeing Camp 4 Terror (post #20)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/297734/Camp-4-Wall
Quote
Steve G. If its the same Camp 4 Terror thats up there a Kamps route from 63 , my buddy and I freed four new pitches up to the C4 Terror and freed to the top from there following the aid line, so yes it has seen a repeat. There was also evidence of someone being up there taking a different way to the summit, old aluminum hangers. The day we sent, Bridwell was sitting in a lawn chair in the old dirt lot in C4 watching us send through binos heckling us from below the whole way.

The fifth pitch does have some mandatory bay tree climbing with some creative pro, but all in all that was the only bushy pitch, there was some digging on lead up high (second to last pitch) but nothin you wouldnt expect to run into when something hasnt been climbed in years. I dont remember any mandatory loose climbing. It would be rad if someone went up and checked out the climb, I think the first four pitches could be classic, steep face and crack climbing on really good rock. If you want I'll post a topo here. I sent a copy to C-Mac for his Yosemite Obscurities but he never added it to his page, also I met Don Reid in the Caff one morning and gave him a copy , it was cool to talk to someone that showed some interest in the C4 Wall.
« Last Edit: March 13, 2012, 06:57:31 pm by cobbledik »
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Jack Herer

  • A2 Flyer
  • ***
  • Posts: 81
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #16 on: March 13, 2012, 06:42:26 pm »
Heres some more random crap, wish I knew more but I don't....

Did any one ever find anything about the new euro route that went up like around February of 2007 near the Aquarian? They had a ledge hanging up near the top of the slab there for a while and we talked to them briefly at the base, and they said they where working on a new route. That is all I know about that one.

Also around the same time, in May of 2007 some guy, another euro too I think was working on a new route somewhere around the Horney/Johnson. He had taped a sign up to the leave no trace sign, saying watch for rock fall between so and so routes because he was working on a new route. We did TDA while we where up there and heard him drilling for oil a few times. I recall he had one of those blue expedition barrels up there. Didn't talk to him at all so again that's all I know.

Cheers
Tyler
« Last Edit: March 13, 2012, 06:48:39 pm by Jack Herer »

Offline jake

  • A2 Flyer
  • ***
  • Posts: 59
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #17 on: March 14, 2012, 12:58:30 pm »
Jack, stop smoking so much Haze so you can stop hallucinating...  besides we all know that was richard drilling bat hooks on Whims of Prayer.

Sea Horse is in NA area... lots of drilling.  FA person said... A5 is... bathook, copperhead, hook, beak, bolt.... ya that is 20 foot fall max.  Sounds like sport climbing.  Probably the modern Wings of Steel... let the rumors and lies began.

Offline Jack Herer

  • A2 Flyer
  • ***
  • Posts: 81
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #18 on: March 14, 2012, 03:57:30 pm »
HA sadly you where not with me either of those times otherwise the yelling and slander fest would have began 5 years ago!!!!!

Offline Erik Sloan

  • Purveyor of Fine Topos
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 315
  • Yosemitebigwall.com
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #19 on: March 15, 2012, 10:38:18 am »
Just put the Ring of Fire topo up on yosemitebigwall.com. Mark's original is in the history section. I tried to add in the NOCS to his original because that was confusing for Flyin Bryan trying to repeat NOCS.

http://yosemitebigwall.com/ring-fire

cheers,
e

Offline Jack Herer

  • A2 Flyer
  • ***
  • Posts: 81
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #20 on: March 15, 2012, 03:01:53 pm »
Hey Nanook, so have you heard anything at all about those 2 routes I mentioned above?

Cheers
Tyler

Offline Erik Sloan

  • Purveyor of Fine Topos
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 315
  • Yosemitebigwall.com
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #21 on: March 15, 2012, 03:17:08 pm »
Nah, I saw the EC fixed gear too, and vaguely remember Werner saying they checked the guys out and that they were renting a place in Forresta and seige fixing the wall. I want to say it was closer to Horse Chute?

I haven't heard anything about the Column route, but would love to. Anyone? Anyone?

Offline *Mucci*

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 422
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #22 on: March 15, 2012, 04:33:48 pm »
I heard there was a euro route on the arches area, near coilers route/Bulging puke?

Sentinal rock should include

Flashback
Psychedelic
Kor/denny
Gobi

Offline Erik Sloan

  • Purveyor of Fine Topos
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 315
  • Yosemitebigwall.com
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #23 on: March 15, 2012, 05:27:50 pm »
You think those should go in the book Josh, or just have a color photo of the Sentinel with the lines drawn in(and the topos available online)? I ask because in 17 years of bigwall climbing in the Valley I've never heard of anyone(other than Cedar trying to free climb up there) repeating a route there. But heh, Lucho says he met Don Reid in the Lodge caf so obviously I"ve been missing a lot, hahhahaha. Got a story?

Offline *Mucci*

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 422
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #24 on: March 15, 2012, 05:51:06 pm »
There are many routes in the above list that have not been repeated (on record).

Gobi wall was done by Brad Young and partner in the late 80's I believe.
Flashback has been repeated, heard it was good FWIW (ST poster)
Psychedelic has surely been repeated, Maybe not in the last 20?

My point is, these routes are part of the formation, and deserve the same inclusion as other less traveled/no 2nd routes on the list posted in this thread.  If you are going to have a select book, where will it end?

 Was this your original intent, and have yet revised the list above?

Lines on the formations are a good start.  But for a wall like sentinal, moderate nailing routes should be included. 


Offline cobbledik

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 690
    • View Profile
    • Fail Falling
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #25 on: March 15, 2012, 06:01:42 pm »
From the horror stories I've heard of the Sentinal Descent, how much worse is it with a nailing big wall kit in tow?
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Erik Sloan

  • Purveyor of Fine Topos
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 315
  • Yosemitebigwall.com
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #26 on: March 15, 2012, 07:55:14 pm »
thanks Mucci, I appreciate your thoughts. I'm still open to what the final form of the Select book will look like, so this discussion is great.

My goal with the Select book is to include as many routes that people want to check out as possible. Unfortunately that means trying to include routes that get climbed somewhat frequently. El Cap and Half Dome are the exception: I feel we have to have every route on these formations because many people are doing nearby routes and there are many stories about these climbs that people love to share. El Cap and Half Dome define Yosemite bigwalls. So for example Wings of Steel is probably not going to see a bunch more traffic, but folks love to look at El Cap topos. Hole in the Head is probably not going to see much traffic and hopefully people will be willing to go online to find the topo--but there will be a detailed Ribbon Falls photo in the book with the line drawn in.

I guess the Sentinel is a cool Grade V wall. The approach to the Steck or Chouinard/Herbert is arduous and scrambly. All the aid routes are even furthur up that ramp which is why I think they don't see so much traffic. Liberty Cap is a long way but the trail is good and you don't have to fix a rope and shuttle loads just to get to the base.
I'll talk to more folks about these routes.

Has anyone else climbed one of these climbs?
« Last Edit: March 15, 2012, 08:53:59 pm by nanook »

Offline cobbledik

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 690
    • View Profile
    • Fail Falling
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #27 on: March 15, 2012, 08:49:40 pm »
For a wall like Half Dome, I was under the impression that many of the right face routes, especially those that see little or no traffic, are so unstable/expanding/exfoliating that one never really knows how much of the original route will still be there once you start up.  Does one consider these topos actual usable documents or more of a historical archive? How does done thing like that affect the goal of a select book of actionable guides?
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Erik Sloan

  • Purveyor of Fine Topos
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 315
  • Yosemitebigwall.com
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #28 on: March 16, 2012, 09:33:38 am »
I hear ya Kevin, and I appreciate you helping shape this book into its best possible form.

I think only those new HD routes, meaning the ones put up in the 90s/2000s have not seen repeats. I'd bet Zenith has seen 20-40 ascents. You have to remember these routes were put up 40 years ago.

Keep the feedback comin. I'm loving it.

Anyone know the gold on Fifi? Wall of Ages?

Offline *Mucci*

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 422
    • View Profile
Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« Reply #29 on: March 16, 2012, 11:37:26 am »
Fifi buttress-
T-bags hanging-rough topo that clint posted on ST.
Golden road to eternal obscurity
Final Frontier
2 other Mcdizzle routes to the left of Vortex have to ask him.
Kohl route somewhere..

I hear you Eric.  Get em all together, documented, located, etc.. Then narrow the scope of the select book.

It is nice to be able to have input as a community, an option not readily available in the past.