Author Topic: Lowe Ball nuts / Trango Ball Nutz  (Read 2006 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Kjbds1

  • Gumby
  • *
  • Posts: 5
    • View Profile
Lowe Ball nuts / Trango Ball Nutz
« on: March 21, 2012, 02:45:47 pm »
Have you guys used them much for clean aid?  There's an old thread on MP, but I'm specifically interested in clean aid, so I figured I'd ask here.  Thanks

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Lowe Ball nuts / Trango Ball Nutz
« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2012, 02:54:03 pm »
There's an aid route in the Lower Yosemite Valley called Pink Pussycat on the Dog Dik Cliff I've done. Basically two KBs and then baby angles for a long way. I recall using a couple of lowe balls to supplement the meager iron rack I had at the time.

They are somewhat of a pain to clean. I think it depends on the rock and whether you fall on them, or just body weight them, on whether you will be able to retrieve them by your follower.

I have this vague memory of someone having something to clean those with, i.e. break the contact with the disc of the lowe ball from the rock.  Might have been something like a pointed chisel. Anything skinny (smaller diameter than the smallest Lowe ball you plan on using) and steel and 6"(?) or so long ought to work if you do end up welding it in the crack.

Offline cobbledik

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 690
    • View Profile
    • Fail Falling
Re: Lowe Ball nuts / Trango Ball Nutz
« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2012, 04:23:41 pm »
I used to love them when I was free climbing (and by free climbing i mean, placing and not testing them with a fall)

Once i started aiding, I realized that they're either very finicky or i'm shit at placing them because they pop on my a lot (and by  a lot I mean, twice, but that was enough to put the fear in me)

Now I carry them, want to place them, but end up just pushing through with whatever else i have on hand. (normally a cam hook)
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Garbonzo

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 358
    • View Profile
Re: Lowe Ball nuts / Trango Ball Nutz
« Reply #3 on: March 21, 2012, 07:41:17 pm »
I bring a few odd pieces on every wall.  A couple tricams, a couple ball nuts, etc.  Invariably they only get placed once or twice, but when they do they avoid nailing or otherwise much more desperate options.

Mideast Crisis:  P5 avoided nailing with a #3 ball nut when I lead it, #2 in a different spot when I went with a different guy and he lead it, P10 (I think) also had a key ball nut.

Prow: Brown Tricam (of all pieces) bailed me out 3 times.

TTrip: P8 or P9 had a chunk come off and a #2 ball nut bailed us out to bypass the fresh scars without nailing.

WFLT has a spot where a ball nut avoids the micronut in a horizontal crappy crack to enter the flair.  I also used a #2 as my very last piece to get up and onto the top ledge the first time I did it.

skully

  • Guest
Re: Lowe Ball nuts / Trango Ball Nutz
« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2012, 07:50:28 pm »
I like Loweballs mostly for Sandstone routes. I don't use them in granite much unless I'm weak in that size.
It's a cleaning thing.

Offline johnmac

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 486
    • View Profile
Re: Lowe Ball nuts / Trango Ball Nutz
« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2012, 08:51:07 pm »
I use them all the time in my playground, that being Zion and Moab. Tricams are the other must piece.

To clean them you have to remember that the ball stays in place and you have you tap the bottom of the stopper up to get them to unseat. It's kind of counter intuitive, but once you get the idea they are not too hard to remove. Sometimes they become fixed gear!


Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Lowe Ball nuts / Trango Ball Nutz
« Reply #6 on: March 21, 2012, 11:43:33 pm »
good insights on this thread, nice!







Tell me more about brown tri cam placements on the prow?!