Author Topic: Steve's First Wall climb  (Read 2979 times)

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Offline spyork

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Steve's First Wall climb
« on: July 29, 2006, 10:27:12 am »
Here is a link. Probably should have called it Baked Monkeys or something. It was wayyyy too hot for wall climbing.

http://www.spyork.com/climbing/tripreports/LeaningTower1/LeaningTower.htm

Offline the_dude

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Steve's First Wall climb
« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2006, 11:37:29 am »
Nice TR, sounds like it was a good time. I can't believe you guys climbed in this heat! Now that you got your systems down a bit better you'll send next time out. Way to go for it!

Offline buffalohorn

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Steve's First Wall climb
« Reply #2 on: August 07, 2006, 01:27:08 pm »
Hey guys,
        Way to go. Effort is everything. Every experience we have on walls, wether we succeed or not, is a learning experience. The more experience we gain through success and failure, the bigger our bag of tricks becomes. I've climbed alot of walls and am about to embark on an adventure of my own and can only hope my experience and that of my partners is enough to be safe and most importantly, to have a good time, wether we get the summit or not.

                                                Have fun and always topstep!!
                                                                             Buffalohorn

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Steve's First Wall climb
« Reply #3 on: June 04, 2007, 03:06:21 pm »
Had to pull this back up.  Last week Spyork and I got back onto WFLT.  The weather this time was much better, maxing out at maybe 85 F, and cooling down to a pleasant 50'ish at night.

Spyork took over a hundred pics, so I'm sure he'll post some good stuff soon.

Sunday:  I flew into the bay area early afternoon on Sunday.  We spent a couple hours culling the gear and packing the pig.  Based on our previous trip we brought WAY too much water, 6 gallons plus another 1.5 gallons to gatorade.  We left the ledge, but brought the little stove to heat chow.  After tanking up on steaks and putting enough gear in the ride to make it sit like a 60's vintage motor boat we were off for valley.  Good traffic got us to Hardin Flat by dusk.

Monday:  We wasted no time, getting up at 5:30 to slog in.  There was one party a day ahead of on the route when we got there, but by time I went back for the last of the load a party of 3 had hopped in front of us in line.  While we ferried th last of the gear and packed the pig they started cleaning the first pitch, and we got our first "warning sign".

The party of three consisted of Larry, Curly and Dipweed.  Larry and Curly actually did very well.  Dipweed seamed fine, but supposedly had the most wall experience.  Purportedly this experience was some years back, but still, some stuff you just don't forget how to do.  Dipweed  immediately had trouble jugging and cleaning P1.  Larry had use some long draws on some bolts making it a little hard to clean them, and Dipweed managed to let go and not be able to get back to them.  No biggy, I'd be happy to clean them when I lead up.

We waited for them to clean the pitch, then set about racking up and sending me up P1/2.  I've done P1/2 twice before, so I was able to march up in right at an hour, and soon was at Cas De Clusterfook.  They had barely gotten Curly out of the starting gate, and he was only halfway up P3.  Ugh.  So I setup Casa De Toecrusher on the last two lead bolts.  We were already suffering annoyance by two fixed lines going from ground to P4.  I am tired of fixed lines.  Soon Spyork joins up at Casa De Toecrusher and we get him all set for P3/4 as The other party eventually got out of the way.  They are nice enough to let us climb up their butt seeing as we all want to get tot he ledge tonight.  We of course did a lousy job of packing the haulback and don't have snacks and much extra water near the top of the bag.  We were also expecting to not be as delayed waiting for another party as we were, so both Spyork and I were not running at 100%.

Spyork had some good times on P3, with enough mank that looks like it will just pop out or rust off at anytime to keep you awake.  Soon into hauling it is clear the fixed line from P2-P4 is going to cause trouble, so I unclip the bottom part as I clear out of the station.  Very quickly I get the call that the line is fooked, and unholy fornication is going on between the fixed line and the pig.  Great.  I clean a welded #1 camalot that I was assured was uncleanable, but have to leave behind a nut.  At the P3 anchor I further unclip the fixed line, which allows the haul to continue with the help of Larry, Curly, and Dipweed.  By time I get to the ledge Larry Curly and Dipweekd have fixed P5/6, but we choose to wait till morning.  They are going light, we are going heavy, so we share a gallon of water with them.  8 lbs we don't have to carry.

Tuesday:  Another early start, out of the bags by 6 AM.  Spyork and I take our time as we don't want to have to put 4 people at a belay at a time.  Larry, Curly, and Dipweed ascend the fixed lines to the start of P7/8 and get going, with Dipweed finally taking his first lead of the route (there was arm twisting the night before).  While getting racked up I tangle with the fixed red line for the last time, and drop it to the talus.  I left all biners, as they would have bad juju, but the rope was just fooking annoying.  Spyork takes his time and styles his way up P5, does the free moves, and gets through P6 quick enough to catch them still at the belay.  Not our plan, but whatever.  Looks like Dipweed is moving slow on his one and only lead of the two most straightforward pitches of the route.  I clean P5/6, again taking my time, playing with clipcleaning, and spending some "quality time" with a couple previously fixed pieces.  Meanwhile there is lots of conversation with Dipweed as to why he has stopped moving.  Apparently he has NOT BACKCLEANED ANYTHING and can no longer proceed.  Assorted calls to sack up go unheeded.  Eventually we send up some of our gear on the haul line and slow crawling progress resumes.  Over an hour and a half have gone by after I arrived at the belay, his partners were there for over 5 hours!

Again, Spyork is forced to climb up the asshole of Curly the cleaner, though with about half our small gear gone due to Dipweed.  I eventually get to the start of P9/10 with about an hour of daylight left.  We get out the headlamps and I set off.  I am not moving fast, and it takes about 2 hours to finish the pitch.  Like the last time I did the pitch, I don't back clean the overhung and traversing pieces to avoid screwing spyork, and quickly and am having to scavenge biners to finish the pitch while fighting paralyzing rope drag.  By time I get to the top I have to act as  human funkness to get the cordage necessary to build the anchor.  Spyork joins me a little after 11 PM, and we are both trashed.  The trashing is as much from sitting in hip crushing harnesses for hours as much as it's the actual climbing.

Tuesday:  Tuesday is a pretty epic free bail off.  We are tired, but in good spirits.  We are free of the wrath of Dipweed!
« Last Edit: June 04, 2007, 03:13:28 pm by Garbonzo »

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Steve's First Wall climb
« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2007, 11:30:39 pm »
superb!

Offline spyork

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Re: Steve's First Wall climb
« Reply #5 on: July 10, 2007, 05:36:47 pm »
Just a few further thoughts:

When I hiked in that morning, all thoughts were about:

1) whether I would be able to lead the crux pitches? or would I be a lame bastard?
2) would it end up being another retreat?

As I watched the boys ahead of us lead the first 6, I thought they would leave us so far in the dust it would be pathetic.

Little did I know the crux would be the chafing I got from too many hours sitting at the belay for P6.

Following 9 and 10 in the dark was a surreal, somewhat frustrating experience.

Here is my TR link

http://www.spyork.com/climbing/tripreports/LeaningTower07/index.htm

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Steve's First Wall climb
« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2008, 12:19:29 am »
Steve, any more pics to post on this? 

I'm getting psyched up. need pics of granite.


thx