Author Topic: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!  (Read 4128 times)

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Offline mhudon

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WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« on: April 07, 2012, 07:34:52 pm »
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Hot damn! WALL SEASON IS HERE!@!!!

Yeah! and I just got the go-ahead from Peggy to spend an extra week down there so I can tick Shortest Straw with Cheyne Lempe after Lost in America!

After LIA I'll drive to Reno, leave my car, fly home for Ellen's 8th grade graduation, a few days later I'll fly back to Reno, drive to Yosemite and GET BACK UP ON EL CAP AGAIN!!

(and then there is the fall route on El Cap with Max (route TBA))!

I'm gonna have a lot of TRs to write this year, I hope I can keep up the quality.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #1 on: April 07, 2012, 11:16:34 pm »
cool

Offline Beautiful_Corn

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2012, 06:30:07 am »
My summer schedule probably won't work out for me to attempt my first this year and my training schedule is going slower than I hoped so everyone get out there and help me live vicariously!  I won't be totally SOL, though.  Plans are in the works for the Gunks, the Adirondacks, and the Whites for lots of multipitch trad.  Maybe I can sneak in some aiding, too.

Offline A5scott

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #3 on: April 11, 2012, 07:33:52 am »
The Gunks are awesome... so many classic routes of all ratings, cool town, Rock and Snow is the dog's bollocks.  Mexicali Blue has the best fish tacos

must do routes...  Disneyland, Gelsa, Bunny, Horseman, Ken's Crack, Dennis, Jackie, Son of Easy O, Shockley's Ceiling, Frog's Head, Something Interesting, MF, Welcome to the Gunks, Billy Shears, CCK, Arrow, Modern Times, Directissima, High E., Bonnies Roof, Ant's line, Madame G's, Best things in life aren't free (aid). 

when you going?

scott
Scott

Offline cobbledik

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2012, 09:15:24 am »
Decided not to climb Shortest Straw because of the possible weather, looks like more than foot or two coming in now, so having never done the EL descent feel like I made a lame but right decision. Instead, went up to see Roulette again and bailed after getting ~10' up C1. The rising terror with every move combined with the bail sling made of #0 copperheads below hooking that I couldn't even begin to see the first placement was too much to take. Hubris, thy name is Kevin.

Retreat, after all, is my favorite form of ascent.

Maybe I should get a partner instead of being so focused on soloing.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline xtrmecat

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2012, 09:27:03 am »
ElCap, first two weeks of June. It is a firm date, wahoooooooo.

  Burly Bob

Offline cobbledik

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #6 on: April 11, 2012, 11:51:19 am »
My ElCap confirmed date with my GF is June 16th-23rd. See what we can do before summer camp starts up.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mhudon

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #7 on: April 11, 2012, 11:53:50 am »
Which routes? I don't want no fisticuffs at the base!

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #8 on: April 11, 2012, 12:08:03 pm »
Decided not to climb Shortest Straw because of the possible weather, looks like more than foot or two coming in now, so having never done the EL descent feel like I made a lame but right decision. Instead, went up to see Roulette again and bailed after getting ~10' up C1. The rising terror with every move combined with the bail sling made of #0 copperheads below hooking that I couldn't even begin to see the first placement was too much to take. Hubris, thy name is Kevin.

Retreat, after all, is my favorite form of ascent.

Maybe I should get a partner instead of being so focused on soloing.

It's all part of it.

Offline mhudon

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #9 on: April 11, 2012, 01:08:20 pm »
I'm heading down on the 25th of May and plan to fix on Lost in America on the 26th and blast on the 27th. I'll be back down on June 16th for Shortest Straw with Cheyne.
« Last Edit: April 11, 2012, 01:41:56 pm by mhudon »

Offline Mike.

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #10 on: April 11, 2012, 03:25:56 pm »
Wall season is all year long. It's Kalifornia, doods. All mortals need is a week or two of decent weather.

But by all means...STAY PSYCHED!!!!!

: ]
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #11 on: April 11, 2012, 09:13:43 pm »
True that. I don't see a foray into the Sierra in my cards just yet, but I'll definitely hit the Perch this Season. Still snowin' up there right now.
Meh.

Offline JC5123

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #12 on: April 12, 2012, 11:03:15 am »
Been out doing some short aid line, brushing up on technique, and breaking in a new rat. Just gotta finish up making a new ledge frame, and haul sack, then I'll be good to go. Headed back up to Mt. Hooker in August to hopefully finish our epic failure 2 years ago. (Broken ankle on P8, complete with full retreat and 2 day wait for the horses to get back to us before getting out)

I don't think it's gonna hold....BUT WE'RE GONNA USE IT ANYWAY!

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #13 on: April 12, 2012, 12:13:26 pm »
that is definitely an epic

2 days with a broken ankle!!

Offline JC5123

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #14 on: April 13, 2012, 09:48:07 am »
Fortunately, we packed enough rum, it wasn't TOO bad. =)
I don't think it's gonna hold....BUT WE'RE GONNA USE IT ANYWAY!

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #15 on: April 13, 2012, 10:00:27 am »
good man!

Offline cobbledik

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #16 on: April 13, 2012, 07:00:13 pm »
Climbing closures on South East face of El Cap have been lifted.

http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

there is a possible closure coming near the great slab according to the Taco though, that should be interesting. What kind of uproar would there be if Salathe was closed until Aug 1? the mind reels.
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No, there is a nest on the Great Slab on the Southwest Face. Closures pending. - Ben Doyle
from this thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1799122/Yosemite-Seasonal-Closures
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mhudon

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #17 on: April 13, 2012, 07:12:41 pm »
ARGGGGHHH!!!!

Okay, I was all psyched for Iron Hawk and then it got closed so I switched to Shortest Straw and then, upon Gagner's suggestion that it was too close and similar to ZM that I did last year, I switched to Lost In America.

So now Iron Hawk is open again!!?!?!?!!?

What should I do?

Offline cobbledik

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #18 on: April 13, 2012, 08:24:07 pm »
Well, you are doing two routes...

Iron Hawk then LiA or SS?

Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mhudon

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #19 on: April 13, 2012, 09:17:01 pm »
Am I being gluttonous?

I've always heard that SS is better than LIA.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #20 on: April 14, 2012, 08:56:56 am »
I've heard the same; want to climb SS, probably only because I've read more TRs for SS than for LiA

Partaking in what is available within an accepted timeframe isn't gluttony or hubris, it's simply action.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Mike.

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #21 on: April 14, 2012, 02:32:01 pm »
Partaking in what is available within an accepted timeframe isn't gluttony or hubris, it's simply action.

Good thought.

I never get too locked into any route. I think more about the type of route I want to do, then have a few possibilities. It's all too common for a clusterfuck, rockfall, film crew, animal/road/fire/flood closure, psyche drain, errant chopper, etc. to make a route undesirable. Just rolling up with all the gear and seeing what falls into place is my MO. I know it doesn't make for a very dramatic preamble, but it's not such a mind fuck when you have to change plan. OTOH, that's prolly why some routes have been on my tick list for so long.

Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mhudon

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #22 on: April 15, 2012, 11:37:26 am »
I need to relax that way, I know it will be good for me, but, if you haven't noticed yet, I do sweat the details. I enjoy having it all planned out but, I know, I should relax.

Still though, I'm psyched to be back to soloing Iron Hawk. It has way more technical problems than either SS or LIA. I have a day where I'm planning to haul off the anchor at the beginning of the KB traverse to the top of the 9th (190 feet), climbing one 80' pitch and then calling it a day. The next day, combining two pitches into one 200' pitch and calling it a day, and then the next, leading two and combining them into one haul and spending the night right there. I have it planned that the two 5.9 pithes will take me all day to lead and haul but I'll bet that I could almost get to the top (2 additional but easy pitches) that day. I'm planning on 10 days total.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #23 on: April 15, 2012, 03:34:38 pm »
Reminds me of Mayfield talking about the difference between him and Bridwell concerning how they approached ZM versus Aurora:

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OnZ.M., Bridwell planned things out to the last detail. He scrutinized the line with a Celestron telescope to the point that he had all the belay spots mapped out. On Aurora, however, we briefly checked out the line through some binoculars and then went for it -Supertopo BigWalls
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Mike.

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #24 on: April 16, 2012, 10:48:35 am »
Right down to the pitch count per day...holy mackerel, Mark, you do sweat the deets. I'd go nuts if I had to follow some itinerary like that up there. I'm on vacation when I climb, and that sounds like a work schedule to me. But that's a joy of it I reckon, figuring out the formula that works.
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mhudon

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #25 on: April 16, 2012, 11:50:09 am »
It's not a work schedule, Mike, it's a relaxation schedule!

Offline Mike.

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #26 on: April 16, 2012, 12:04:20 pm »
Right on, dawg. But relaxation and schedule are inherently incongruous in my mind : )
Say no to limbers, excavators and retro-bolters. No matter how much he smiles.

Offline mhudon

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #27 on: April 16, 2012, 12:23:07 pm »
True, and everything is in flux as the day progresses, but I'm pretty in tune with what I can do in a day but planning for it doesn't let me get ahead of myself.

Offline lambone

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #28 on: April 17, 2012, 09:48:31 am »
June 12th!

Not sure if we are gunna do El Cap. Thinking about the Lost Arrow Direct route...

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« Reply #29 on: April 17, 2012, 10:45:52 pm »
nice Lambone



Mark, details is good. When you have it dialed, then it becomes way more comfortable and enjoyable. I totally get that these days.