Author Topic: Can we have your Blessings??  (Read 1590 times)

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Offline buffalohorn

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Can we have your Blessings??
« on: August 01, 2006, 12:55:32 pm »
Hey Deuce4,
           Planning on gettin on Kali Yuga on Aug 14. We are bringing along a bolt kit and would like to replace any damaged or sketchy Anchor Bolts.
We are old friends of Walts and will not disgrace his memory by adding chicken bolts. This climb is a reunion of old valley friends, thinking of Walt and enjoying life. We're lookin forward to the climb and will wait for your blessings as your the only first ascentionist of the route still here in this realm. Thanks. Buffalohorn

Offline deuce4

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Kali Yuga
« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2006, 07:31:23 am »
Hi Buffalohorn-

Of course carrying a bolt kit for this kind of route is essential, and replacing anchor and belay bolts will be a good thing.  We used 1/4 inch, so upgrading to the now standard 3/8" seems appropriate.

Perhaps you could also remove the bolts that Big Wall Pete added on my 5.9 mantle move up high on one of the last pitches.  I think that team also bolted the snoopy, one of Walt's bold leads.

Good luck on the route.  Let me know if the rockfall affected it at all.
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Offline buffalohorn

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Can we have your Blessings??
« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2006, 11:30:45 am »
Hey just wondering....
The bolts Big Wall Pete added to the route, was that an ascent of Kali Yuga or the first ascent of Vodka Putsch, which links in at the snoopy and finishes out Kali Yuga?? The bolt count table in the Don Reid Big Wall Guide, is this accurate to your knowledge?? We are more than happy to restore the route to its original state and know we have our hands full following in yours and Walts shoes....
                                                      Many thanks,
                                                                     Buffalohorn

Offline deuce4

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kali yuga bolts
« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2006, 05:05:59 pm »
Yes, I think they drilled after climbing the route that joined at the Snoopy.  I heard something like 10 or more bolts were added to the final pitches on Kali Yuga.  Walt was pretty pissed for a while, but got over it.

It was amusing that Big Wall Pete, as we called him back then, subsequently drilled on my 5.9 mantle move on the second to last pitch.  He was one of the valley's top sport climbers, and claimed he had to drill because he was too short, but that's not true--the move required hooking out a ledge, then a scary free climbing mantle up with a bad fall potential to get to a flake. Height wasn't an issue once you mantled. But the  "5.9" mantle was pretty committing with a full rack of gear and a body slamming fall potential.

To be honest, I was considering drilling there, but Walt, 15 feet to my left, was prodding me relentlessly to mantle up.  I don't think he really could see how the wall above the mantle was so steep and made it super balancy. 

That's big wall 5.9 for ya...

(edited)
« Last Edit: February 13, 2014, 11:49:21 am by deuce4 »
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Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Can we have your Blessings??
« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2014, 02:01:36 pm »
how did this go?