Author Topic: Cleaning a traverse - Hudon photo  (Read 2736 times)

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Offline Beautiful_Corn

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Cleaning a traverse - Hudon photo
« on: July 01, 2012, 07:51:04 pm »
Nevermind, I figured it out!
« Last Edit: July 01, 2012, 08:02:49 pm by Beautiful_Corn »

Offline mhudon

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Re: Cleaning a traverse - Hudon photo
« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2012, 08:45:31 am »
What??!!?

Offline A5scott

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Re: Cleaning a traverse - Hudon photo
« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2012, 10:03:23 pm »
yeah you can't just leave us hanging... are you talking about Hudon on the KB traverse?

Scott

Offline mhudon

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Re: Cleaning a traverse - Hudon photo
« Reply #3 on: July 02, 2012, 10:38:14 pm »


He might be talking about this photo.

Always safety the top ascender as shown, with a biner at the bottom, to keep the ascender more in-line with the rope (an oval biner works well at the top of the ascender but I was very conscience of hearing that "click" of the cam locking in place before I weighted that ascender). I also tied frequent back up knots.
The real trick is the adjustable fifi hooked into the quicklink on the bottom ascender. This keeps you close to the rock and in easy reaching distance of the previous piece. Pop it off the quicklink when you're lowering out, pop it back on when you need to get higher to reach back and clean the piece. This worked really well cleaning the roof also. It helps if your leader is not a bozo and doesn't do cam hook placements or back clean pieces.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Cleaning a traverse - Hudon photo
« Reply #4 on: July 02, 2012, 10:42:55 pm »
Another trick to lowering out without leaving tat is to carry a 25 foot piece of 5 mil. Attach one end to you your harness, run the cord through the eye of the piece, back to your harness, tie it with a Munter, clean your gear, clean any tat, pop the tie-off on the Munter and lower yourself out till you reach the end of the 5 mil and then simply let go, go for a little swing and pull the 5mil through the eye of the piece, coil it up and continue on, leaving nary a trace!

This trick is so sickly easy that I can't imagine why it's not in widespread use.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Cleaning a traverse - Hudon photo
« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2012, 10:46:28 pm »
A third trick, for shorter lower outs, is to simply run your wrist through a shoulder length sling, taking care to have the sewn section near your wrist, run the rest of the sling through the piece and back to that same hand and held with your middle two fingers, clean your biners, clean any tat, open your hand, release the sling from your two fingers, go for a little sling, pulling the sling through the piece as you go.

Easy Peasy and Quick!

A variation, where I've clipped the sling to my harness, is shown below. I was able to cut all that tat off that lower out point before letting go.



In five El Cap routes, including the most traversing route on the cliff aside from the Girdle Traverse, Iron Hawk, I've left no lower out slings (I have left two biners).
« Last Edit: July 02, 2012, 10:53:17 pm by mhudon »

Offline johnmac

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Re: Cleaning a traverse - Hudon photo
« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2012, 09:25:06 pm »
Mark,

What is the strength rating on those quicklinks you are using?

Thanks.

John

Offline mhudon

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Re: Cleaning a traverse - Hudon photo
« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2012, 09:56:47 pm »
Those are the standard ones you get at the hardware store. I just looked, it's WLL 880 lbs. You'll notice though that my steps are clipped into them and not my daisies. (you'll also note that the Metolius Adjustable Daisies are rated to only 300 pounds but in fact are far stronger).

I noticed that when I was getting off the anchor I'd clip my steps into my aiders and then my daisies into those biners, the biners on my steps are not locking and I wanted to be locked into my jugs. Clipping a locking biner into a non-locking biner didn't make sense. I figured I'd used the extra, but small hole, in the jugs for a link to clip my steps into and the main hole for my locking biner to my daisy.

I'm not worried about the adjustable daisies surviving a fall of some sort, I have a back up knot for that, I just didn't want them to twist and pop off the jug somehow.

We used Cheyne's jugs on Shortest Straw and he clips both his ladders and daisy into one large locker. That locker goes to the jug so he doesn't have my problem. Once I thought about it, I easily remembered to clip the locker in first and the steps in second.

Offline johnmac

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Re: Cleaning a traverse - Hudon photo
« Reply #8 on: July 19, 2012, 02:30:47 pm »
Thanks for the info.

I just use one locker as well, but sometimes I find it is a bit of hassle, especially if you have put the aider in first!


Offline offset

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Re: Cleaning a traverse - Hudon photo
« Reply #9 on: July 19, 2012, 02:52:59 pm »
yellow 'death-juggers' and a hero loop tied thru the main connector hole.   attach whatever you want into that loop.  lots of degrees of freedom and no weird bending/binding...   

Offline mhudon

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Re: Cleaning a traverse - Hudon photo
« Reply #10 on: July 21, 2012, 07:22:57 am »
yellow 'death-juggers' ???

The old yellow jumars? Why were those so bad?  I'm going to start carrying my old gray ones as my spare set on my next solos.

Offline offset

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Re: Cleaning a traverse - Hudon photo
« Reply #11 on: July 23, 2012, 05:14:12 pm »
ah, i have nothing against my old yellow juggers.   my partner is the one that calls them deathjuggers so i just go ahead and propagate the fear to others.   i think they are easier to use and more substantial than metoliusesses juggers.