Author Topic: Kali Yuga first 5 belays marked on pic. Did I get it right?  (Read 1691 times)

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Offline Erik Sloan

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Kali Yuga first 5 belays marked on pic. Did I get it right?
« on: August 13, 2012, 12:38:42 pm »
Trying to figure out where the route starts. Anyone been up there?



thanks,
erik

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Kali Yuga first 5 belays marked on pic. Did I get it right?
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2012, 07:32:34 pm »
crazy composite pic.  looks slabby

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Kali Yuga first 5 belays marked on pic. Did I get it right?
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2012, 08:06:08 pm »
pfft, 5.6 friction free climbing, max.

;-P
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Kali Yuga first 5 belays marked on pic. Did I get it right?
« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2013, 05:46:06 pm »
Man, Roger and I are gonna hike up there and again and try and figure this out.

John can you remember where the route goes?

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Kali Yuga first 5 belays marked on pic. Did I get it right?
« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2013, 08:38:15 am »
The Faist doesn't remember where the route goes? lol, not as far fetched as you might think ;) John?

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Kali Yuga first 5 belays marked on pic. Did I get it right?
« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2013, 11:29:40 am »
did you send a PM?  I know he's been pretty busy and doesn't always check the site, but let me know if the PM didn't go thru.

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Kali Yuga first 5 belays marked on pic. Did I get it right?
« Reply #6 on: August 12, 2013, 05:28:22 pm »
Thanks Munge, will pm him

Offline deuce4

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Re: Kali Yuga first 5 belays marked on pic. Did I get it right?
« Reply #7 on: August 13, 2013, 02:14:01 am »
I've been asked this before, but unfortunately, I wasn't involved with the first five pitches.
This route marked my return to yosemite wall climbing (after a 3 year hiatus) after our epic on the South Face.  I came to the valley to visit for a week or so (A5 was keeping me busy), but ended up staying a month and doing 3 new big wall routes and a speed record.

I had no intention of climbing a big wall, as it was late season and I still remembered wicked shivering on the South Face.  But the next thing you know....

I bumped into Walt in Curry Village.  He had a huge haul bag on his back and had just bailed from his solo attempt of the route because he felt the season was too late, and winter was coming on.  We had some beers and he was in extreme angst about his decision (anyone who has bailed will know this is one of the lowest feelings a wall climber can experience). Over the course of a beer or two, we agreed to go back up and tackle it together.

After that I was bit again, and went on to climb a couple other new walls, and a speed record on the column.

But it was all a rush, and we started on pitch 5 after jugging Walt's ropes.  I looked around and recall not even knowing where Walt had climbed--it looked a bit devious and there were lots of potential but discontinuous features.  Walt was in extreme Bipley mode and in no mood to dally explaining his previous weeks' efforts.

Didn't the bottom fall off anyhow some years ago?

Cheers
John Middendorf
« Last Edit: August 13, 2013, 02:16:08 am by deuce4 »
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Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Kali Yuga first 5 belays marked on pic. Did I get it right?
« Reply #8 on: August 13, 2013, 10:29:21 am »
thanks John. That photo is from last summer, so since the rockfall which appears to have affected the 4th pitch?

Urmas came through on ST with the 3rd ascent beta.

cheers,
erik

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Kali Yuga first 5 belays marked on pic. Did I get it right?
« Reply #9 on: September 02, 2013, 08:50:12 am »
We hiked up and spent some time figuring it all out. What do you think John:

http://yosemitebigwall.com/kali-yuga