Author Topic: Fixing the haul line for rapping while soloing  (Read 3139 times)

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Offline SLareau

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Fixing the haul line for rapping while soloing
« on: September 17, 2012, 07:09:24 pm »
After a weekend trip to the Glass that was cut short by about 100 things going wrong, the worst of which was setting the pig on a yellow jacket nest (pro tip: don't do this), I've found myself with the desire/need to do some solo aiding. 

As I was working through the entire sequence of everything I would need to do, I came to wonder if there is a better way to fix the haul line to rap back to the previous anchor.  My understanding is that it's common practice to rig the haul system/haul device onto the haul line, tie a backup knot, and then rap back to the anchor.  Assuming most of you are using some sort of jamming pulley (micro, mini, or pro trax), that means that you are rapping on the teeth/jamming capability of the pulley, with a backup knot behind the pulley/secured to the anchor in case of some sort of catastrophic pulley failure.  I've never heard of this failing on anyone but this idea definitely doesn't give me the warm and fuzzies either.  The breaking strength of the jamming capabilities of all those petzl pulleys is 4kn which isn't that much.  If the pulley failed I'm not sure it would be certain death unless you had a ton of slack on the other side of the pulley which could either 1) shockload the anchor or 2) shock load your spine. Best case scenario is that your hauling pulley is out of commission, worst case scenario is your dead.

So this is what I thought to be the "better way" of doing this:  Rig the self jamming pulley but retract the teeth, on the other side of the pulley (the non-pig side) tie a munter mule and after a foot or two of slack tie your traditional backup knot (figure 8/butteryfly) secured to anchor.  The list of things in order would be: Pig -----> a pitch's length of haul line ---> a retracted tooth self jamming pulley rigged for hauling -----> the haul line tied in a munter mule off anchor ---> a foot or two of slack ---> terminal backup knot to anchor.  Once you cleaned the pitch and released the pig you would simply engage the teeth of the pulley and release the munter to put the load on the pulley.  The main advantage to this would be that you are rapping on the munter mule instead of a jammed pulley.  The main disadvantage is the extra time it takes to rig. 

Maybe some of you guys do this or there is some terribly flaw to all of this that I haven't considered but I'm interested to see what the general consensus is.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Fixing the haul line for rapping while soloing
« Reply #1 on: September 17, 2012, 10:05:02 pm »
A little unclear on the setup, but I feel like this system would require the pulley to hang quite a bit (1-2') below the anchor point in order to give space for the MMO to have space to hang and then to release onto the pulley. I don't like to have the pulley any lower than it absolutely has to be - usually this means hanging the pulley off a single high bolt (if beefy anchor bolts which is all I've had to deal with so far) so the pig is close enough to the anchor that when it drops a bit after resting on the docking tether it is still accessible and such.

To be honest, the easiest way if you're concerned about rapping on the teeth is to use a 3:1 (or 2:1 whatever) hauling system. With this, it's easy to pull up enough slack with the first  downward stroke to place the pulley onto the haul line. This means that you don't need to have the pulley on the rope at all when you're rapping and can simply rap off of knot directly to the anchor. Plus, if you're soloing then you're going to being hauling much larger loads (extra water/food for extra days on wall) and so having a 3:1 ratchet is a godsend unless you're on something overhanging like Leaning Tower, but even then, fuck it, why sweat? I'm sure Hudon's website has explanations of this in his anchors  info pdfs. I'll go find the link and edit this post.
edit: here's the link, doesn't exactly describe the process of getting the haul line onto the system once you have the pigs weighting the line, but the pieces are there to figure it out.
http://www.hudonpanos.com/Wall-Tips/2-to-1-Hauling.pdf

If you don't like that, or you want to go more minimalist, engage the teeth and place a prussic on the anchor and below the pulley so you're not actually on the teeth. unless the prussic fails... then you shock load the teeth if it fails quickly... so yeah. I don't know. I use the 3:1.
« Last Edit: September 17, 2012, 10:08:59 pm by cobbledik »
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Offline SLareau

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Re: Fixing the haul line for rapping while soloing
« Reply #2 on: September 17, 2012, 10:45:16 pm »
Hauling with a separate 2:1/3:1 system definitely solves this problem.  I thought about the issues inherent on having room for the munter w/o putting the jamming pulley too low. I need to screw around with it to see how it works out in space to see how big of a problem this would be.  I was thinking at a 3 bolt anchor you munter off a far bolt and equalize the jamming pulley off the other two bolts to help alleviate the height issue.  I might build a system and take some pics tomorrow to see how it works out.

Offline lambone

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Re: Fixing the haul line for rapping while soloing
« Reply #3 on: September 19, 2012, 10:55:12 pm »
When I first soloed El Cap I just rapped right off the teeth on the Pro-Traxion. Didn't like it, but no problems.

Later on I used a separate 7 or 8 mil chord with a klimeheist knot to the haul line below the pulley then munter-muled to the anchor.

Now that I think about it, just munter-muling the haul line straight to the anchor makes sense and eliminates the extra chord. As long as you could hook your hauler to the weighted chord before you pop the munter-mule...I can't foresee any issues. However it would probably work best if your munter-mule was rigged up as high as possible, just off a single bolt and backed up to the power point rather then off the powerpoint. Otherwise when you go to release it your gong to have to have your hauler hanging pretty low.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Fixing the haul line for rapping while soloing
« Reply #4 on: September 19, 2012, 11:12:33 pm »
chord

are ropes like music to your ears?

Offline lambone

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Re: Fixing the haul line for rapping while soloing
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2012, 07:08:47 pm »
kinda I guess...yeah ;)

Offline mhudon

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Re: Fixing the haul line for rapping while soloing
« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2012, 09:12:15 pm »
Attaching a 2:1 system to a tight haul line is easy. Your first pump will get you only an inch or two, the second, two or four, the third, four or five and then you're flying.

Either of Lambone's techniques sound good.

I never worry about my bags being too low. I have a Yates Adjustable Daisy attached to the top point of my ledge and simply
 lower the ledge untill it is just below the bottom of the bags, making it easy for me to stand on my ledge and unload them. So far, in 7 wall, the rock has never been so overhanging that the ledge is dangling out in air.

When you're soloing, you're always in free flow mode and never really "tied into" an anchor, you're always on your daisies and your gri-gri. If the bag is low, drop down with your gri-gri, get the stuff you need and climb up your aiders to the anchor.

I always clip a jug of water in between the haul line straps so it is always up high and accessible, my clothes for the day are in my tag bag and that's always up at the anchor. I rarely need to get into my haul bags during the day.

When I'm not soloing, I'm in the Belay Lounge which hangs down just a bit above the tops of the hauls bags so there again, it's not a issue.

Getting the bags tight to the anchor has always seemed a "much ado about nothing" problem to me.