Author Topic: rope stuck while jugging?  (Read 1601 times)

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Offline csproul

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rope stuck while jugging?
« on: September 22, 2012, 09:47:28 am »
I recently climbed the RNWF of Half Dome. We had the leader free/French free as much as possible and the follower jugged with a small haulbag on their back. I have done a few other smaller aid climbs here in the South (eg Looking Glass, NC) but this is the first time I've done any sustained jugging on line that was so featured and less than vertical. I had several instances where I was jugging, especially in the chimney pitches (tired, and in the dark too) where I was jugging and the looped rope below me got stuck on something. It seemed to happen whether I tied backup knots or not. It was really frustrating and cost us a lot of time. After one particularly frustrating pitch where I had to rap all the way back the anchor, I finally resorted to a backup knot clipped to my harness every 15 feet or so. It was a lot of rope clipped to my harness and was kind of a cluster. Is there a better way to avoid this? Coil it while jugging maybe?
« Last Edit: September 22, 2012, 10:38:05 am by csproul »

Offline cobbledik

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Re: rope stuck while jugging?
« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2012, 02:16:48 pm »
Rope bag attached to harness.

Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: rope stuck while jugging?
« Reply #2 on: September 22, 2012, 04:25:15 pm »
good question

are you using a 60m or a longer line?


I just clip it off when it gets too clusterfriggy (<--technical term).

but invariably by the time I'm at the belay it's a little funky.

Offline lambone

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Re: rope stuck while jugging?
« Reply #3 on: September 23, 2012, 11:07:00 am »
Have the leader pull up all the extra line before fixing it, as long as you don't need it for a big lower out. Then coil the rope as you go and hang the coils off your harness.

I've used bags too, but they can be a pain and blow around in the wind. then inevitably the rope starts zipping out of the bag...

Offline mhudon

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Re: rope stuck while jugging?
« Reply #4 on: September 23, 2012, 11:56:46 am »
+1 what Lambone said.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: rope stuck while jugging?
« Reply #5 on: September 23, 2012, 05:33:21 pm »
I've had the rope zip out of the bag. One of the louder bouts of cursing I've had on the wall. It's always the little things...
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline lambone

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Re: rope stuck while jugging?
« Reply #6 on: September 23, 2012, 06:23:15 pm »
"This f'ckn rope bag!!!"


Offline *Mucci*

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Re: rope stuck while jugging?
« Reply #7 on: September 23, 2012, 07:56:14 pm »
Best thing to use with those yates bags is a .$99 plastic clamp found in any hardware store.

Pinch the rope when you have just stacked it, and are on the move again.  But don't get one of those pansy clamps with no springage.

Bonus is that when yer done for the day, you can hang yer socks out to dry.