Author Topic: North America Wall...  (Read 781 times)

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Offline offset

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North America Wall...
« on: November 29, 2012, 03:52:53 pm »
let's hear about it...  i think a few folks here have climbed it.  looks mega interesting...

pics?

Offline lambone

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Re: North America Wall...
« Reply #1 on: November 29, 2012, 09:18:00 pm »
I did that one about 5 years ago with Grover. Pretty fun route...it took us a while cause we're are slow and suck at free climbing. I think we spent 6 nights on it. If you can hop out of the aiders the middle section up to Big Sur goes quicker, fast teams do it in 3-4 bivis.

Has an adventurous, mountaineering route sort of feel to it, and it wanders quite a bit. I'd recommend it, and I'd do it again, and shoot for a bit faster time. Some people don't like it cause it's not the best granite on El Cap and wanders...to each his own...

The Black Dihedral was one of the more wild pitches I've led in the dark, pretty easy but crazy calcified rock.

Some loose stuff up around the Cyclops, but not too bad.

p2 and 3 are some of the crux aiding through funky angle scars, and the traverse out of the Cyclops felt a bit tricky. It's about as technically difficult as Zodiac but much more involved.

Up in the Pendulums off Big Sur


Leading the Black Cave pitch


In the Cave


Cleaning the Black Cave pitch.


Standing on the Igloo
« Last Edit: November 30, 2012, 11:04:29 am by lambone »

Offline mhudon

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Re: North America Wall...
« Reply #2 on: November 29, 2012, 10:42:56 pm »
I did it back in 1977, I think it was my 3rd El Cap route. Way back in the days before cams, ubiquitous 3 bolt anchors and detailed topos. 5 and a half days.

Offline Gagner

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Re: North America Wall...
« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2012, 09:02:34 pm »
Renny Jackson and I did the NA around '85 or '86 I think.  Great route, as much for the historical perspective as for the climbing - coming out from the Black Cave is one of the most exposed roofs on El Cap.  I always describe the NA as a worker route due to all the haul bag moving around one needs to do - Calaveras, Big Sur, Cyclops Eye, Igloo -- we had a fun time on the Igloo with some vegetables.........:)

P.

Offline mhudon

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Re: North America Wall...
« Reply #4 on: November 30, 2012, 09:52:22 pm »
-- we had a fun time on the Igloo with some vegetables.........:)

There is no way I want to hear any more about that!