Author Topic: Spring Wall Plans?  (Read 3774 times)

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Offline lambone

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Spring Wall Plans?
« on: April 08, 2013, 05:51:03 pm »
Who's got some plans in the works?

I'm lookin at June 8th-14th. Something a bit shorter, maybe Never Never Land

Offline passthepitonspete

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2013, 06:23:29 pm »
NNL ain't actually that short.  Its start is especially circuitous and traversing.  If you want a much more direct version of that route, climb Octopussy.  BUT don't go the way the topo suggests - go up towards the start of NNL/Aquarian, and climb up the right side of whatever that feature is that has the great bivi ledge at the top of 3.  Need big cams, but it beats the offwidth up the front, and is a way faster/shorter start to the wall.  You can finish straight up off the Pinnacle of Hammerdom via Eric Kohl's bolt ladder on Hole World.

Lost World is quite good, it finishes on Lurking Fear. Squeeze Play is said to be the better variation, but I haven't done it. 

Anything that finishes up on Thanksgiving - you can rap Lurking Fear for a quick and easy descent.  Going over the top is quite an ordeal.
Dr. Piton says, "There is always a Better Way!"

Offline lambone

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2013, 07:37:01 pm »
Nothing is short the way you climb Pete ;)

Rapping 20 pitches with pigs down a busy trade route in peak season sounds like a nightmare to me. No thanks, I'll take the walk off.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2013, 08:19:10 pm »
Nothing is short the way you climb Pete ;)

Rapping 20 pitches with pigs down a busy trade route in peak season sounds like a nightmare to me. No thanks, I'll take the walk off.


No doubt. Even as much as I disliked going over the top, it appeals to me way more than rapping that thing.


Zod and Nose (the later time permitting this season). Just working on calendar this week.

Offline Skully

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2013, 07:21:20 am »
Scoping out a Perch trip for July. Yeah, it's hardly Spring. I'll take what I can get, eh?

Offline Erik Sloan

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2013, 12:51:57 pm »
Man I'm getting stoked for the Stone. Thinking about a long westerly route, like Heart Route, but Sunkist is pretty appealing too. Woohoo!

Offline offset

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #6 on: April 09, 2013, 02:04:19 pm »
lookin' at a re-nose'n.      it was good, but i feel it can be better.. if i'm better..     is this what they call 'chasing the dragon'??

late june... w000t!!!

seattle spring is the toughest time of the year, i tell ya...

Offline passthepitonspete

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #7 on: April 09, 2013, 02:49:35 pm »
Climb The Heart Route, Erik - please!  Replace a few of those ancient anchor bolts while you're at it, and then let me know.  It's on my list. 
Dr. Piton says, "There is always a Better Way!"

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #8 on: April 09, 2013, 06:03:49 pm »
Finish our wall on Wall of Ages, something FAish, then two weeks off at the beginning of June to solo something on the Cap'n thinking of New Dawn to Tribal or Sunkist (but probably only if I fanagle a partner)  And maybe a Virginia and rap over the weekends before June if time allows.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Raaf

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #9 on: April 12, 2013, 11:47:45 pm »
Not saying much since plans are dependent on weather and other parties. But we've got some items ready for Plan A.



« Last Edit: April 13, 2013, 12:17:50 am by Raaf (formerly pivaraaf) »

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #10 on: April 13, 2013, 08:54:32 am »
Well crap Raaf.  If we are going to bring all that too I better put this donut down and do some weights instead.  Maybe I should switch to bacon. Bacon is low carb, right?  Mmmmm. bacon...

Still amazed how much crap I have despite trying to bring the essentials.

Still have to round up fresh food, water, a few more meals, and some Wag bags...  Otherwise I am packed a few weeks early for once.

Fish bag needs a strap repair too.  The POS needs minor repair after only 10 years and 8 walls...

Offline Raaf

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #11 on: April 13, 2013, 11:20:37 am »
Eat the donut!!! Suffering will commence regardless.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #12 on: April 13, 2013, 11:32:52 am »
oh shit, sawed offs!




suffering has a proposal for me this week. got a message of a picture of a large backcountry wall. somewhat low angle. July might be the time for it.

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #13 on: April 13, 2013, 10:21:34 pm »
Haul bag is all put back together.  One main 1.5" main straps had abraided 1/3 away.  I melted the edges to stop the fuzzing, then bar tacked some 2" webbing around it as reinforcement and as a rash guard.  Some busted stitched on one shoulder strap also got redone.  I also redid my storm collar.  The budget bag didn't have one, so I added a comically big one ~10 years ago and finally shortened it up to be reasonable.





Aslo tacked in a daisy for keeping everything clipped into (less bag diving), thanks to Olympicmtnboy's browbeating on our last trip.


Now I just need Zodiac to have light enough runoff that it will be a viable option.
« Last Edit: April 13, 2013, 10:23:33 pm by Garbonzo »

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #14 on: April 13, 2013, 11:26:31 pm »
Looked at Zod today, runoff looked nonexistent.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Skully

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #15 on: April 13, 2013, 11:38:34 pm »
It's another dry(ish) year... Plan accordingly.
Nice stitch work, Garbonzo.

Offline passthepitonspete

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #16 on: April 14, 2013, 09:05:51 am »
Add copious amounts of Plasti-Dip to exposed nylon that will rub!  It will greatly lengthen the lifespan of your piggage.

You don't need [m]any sawed-offs on the Shield.  If you can't get an offset cam to fit in those horrific ugly pinscars, a Pecker will fit in the perfect thin crack either above or below, with minimal invasiveness. 
Dr. Piton says, "There is always a Better Way!"

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #17 on: April 14, 2013, 10:30:13 am »
Plasti-dip wore through and I was too lazy to do another round.  I put the extra layer of webbing on all 4 connection points for good measure.  The poor bag only has a few more walls left in it anyway.

Skully, Cobbledik, thanks for the heads up.  Zodiac is top of my list, last year it was pretty nasty and we bailed to the Trip.
« Last Edit: April 14, 2013, 10:46:02 am by Garbonzo »

Offline Raaf

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #18 on: April 14, 2013, 04:32:07 pm »
Actually it was two years ago that we bailed on the Zodiac intentions due to it being too wet. So if it's dry enough this year when we go, that could be the Plan A. I'm sure those beautiful sawed-offs will wait patiently for the next time.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #19 on: April 14, 2013, 04:36:53 pm »
You can use a wide camhook for sawed pinscars as well. Spooky but no less than hand placed from my aid cragging/bouldering practice.

I looked at ZOD midday after a warm bluebird day so no idea what it's like early morn or dusk...
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #20 on: April 14, 2013, 05:41:26 pm »
Actually it was two years ago that we bailed on the Zodiac intentions due to it being too wet. So if it's dry enough this year when we go, that could be the Plan A. I'm sure those beautiful sawed-offs will wait patiently for the next time.

Well crap, my brain is gone again.  I somehow forgot about the Prow from last year...  Clearly I need beer stat.

Offline lambone

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #21 on: May 13, 2013, 04:37:11 pm »
Sunkist be the new plan!! Arrrghhhh...

Offline Gagner

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #22 on: May 13, 2013, 08:59:10 pm »
Enjoy Sunkist Lambone.  Great route, even with all the traversing!!

WOOT!!

Paul

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #23 on: May 14, 2013, 12:41:21 am »
Sunkist is def on my todo short list
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #24 on: May 14, 2013, 04:44:27 pm »
TBA

Offline passthepitonspete

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #25 on: May 14, 2013, 06:25:30 pm »
Sunkist - excellent.  Just don't do as Gagner DOES, do as Gagner SAYS!  Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!  In other words, put Screamers on your Peckers!  

Looks like ND to WOEML for me and MN Mark and JP.  Big party on Lay Lady Ledge for sure!  That's the first wall.  Still looking at objectives and partners for a second wall starting around June 10.  Write me if you're interested.  Frequent flyer points could make the difference.  {wink}
Dr. Piton says, "There is always a Better Way!"

Offline mhudon

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #26 on: May 29, 2013, 04:36:06 pm »
I'm going up on Sunkist with Cheyne on the 4th.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #27 on: May 29, 2013, 06:58:53 pm »
Looks like ND to WOEML for me and MN Mark and JP.  Big party on Lay Lady Ledge for sure!  That's the first wall.

That's under closures now no?
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #28 on: May 29, 2013, 07:35:54 pm »
The Tower start is open but the WOEML is closed. I suspect it's last two pitches are open to allow for Tribal Rite ascents.

Offline jcory86

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Re: Spring Wall Plans?
« Reply #29 on: June 02, 2013, 11:28:32 pm »
Sent zodiac solo in 5 days late April. It was very dry with only minimal drippage. Headed down the 13th to have another go on the nose. Sent that last year as my first el cap route. Going with a party of three, same two guys I did Salathe with last year. It will be monkey calling good time with the ghetto blaster on high. Can't wait for a little two for Tuesday on the hawk.